S10 Swap how to

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Rockabilly1984

Skymangs
What size of the square tubing was used to make the cab mounts?

If you want to use the square tube technique, it's 4x4 11ga tube. See my build thread for how I made them. Post #82

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=726321&page=4

[J_Hall]

So I've been going through this thread and I was wondering if you had any advice for hooking up an AC system in these trucks. Like what you need and any tips for how to do it.

I'm new to this but this whole thread was so good I just had to say thank you for it. I got a 51 with half an a frame already on it and have been trying to get everything to fit right. This was a huge help!

[skymangs]

on the AC. the correct thing to do is vintage air, I use the compac and not a sure-fit. I can do it much cheaper (about $900) and customize it to the truck. not only that, that under dash plenum just looks stupid! that being said, you could go with a more budget friendly under dash unit (about $600). just remember, you get what you pay for.
you cannot re-purpose the s10 AC (it's been tried). I get all my AC parts on ebay. you want a universal 19x22 condenser (usually 80-90 bucks) and a hose kit w/drier (80-100 depending) then go to oreillys to have your hose ends crimped. I have gauges and a 20lb bottle of 134A so I do my own charging.

[J_Hall]

Yea I don't like that under the dash system either lol. I saw a 54 in here that used a vintage air compac, how would you fit the duct work and vents ? I couldn't see any from the interior picture of that 54.


Also what do you do as far as a brace inside the front outer fenders. Usually that bolts to the radiator shroud but can you do that with the radiator in the shroud ?

[99 to Life]

100% agree, use a compac unit, not the surefit. The sure fit IMO is very unprofessional looking for the cost. Plus you can piece it all together as you go if money is an issue, and you can do it for less than buying a complete kit.

Your next issue will be compressor and bracket. dep on engine used that will change and again IMO the brackets are overpriced. but if you want to spend $125 and be done with it (for an LS bracket) then go for it, or build your own.

[tlorber]

This it timely information for me, as I plan on putting in AC as one of the next major projects. I fully agree about the plenums. They look like they are from a mid '70's Chevy Caprice or something. They don't match the architecture of these trucks at all.

Kwik Performance makes a bracket that works with a mini compressor (I believe Sanden SD7B10) that puts the compressor in front of the passenger side head instead of to the side of it. That way you don't need to cut into the inner fender-at least not as much. I have not bought or installed it but it is probably the route I will go.

Chris, do you have any pics of the plenums you have put together?

[skymangs]

J Hall: there's room for the ducting fits up there. as for vents, use vintage air round surface mount vents. mount them high on the kickpanel. so it's out of the line of sight.

as far as the core support, if you read the first few pages carefully you'll see that you can still bolt the fenders to the core support.

[J_Hall]

I’ll look into those vents. Thank you again for the responses and all this information ! I’m sure I’ll have more questions later on but for now I appreciate the help !
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[J_Hall]

skymangs, I haven't had any luck with those vents. You don't happen to have a link to them or anything do you ?

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I'd like to share the mount design and dimensions I came up with. I put these together with advice I got from other builders on this forum (jeffs51chevy, av8tr33337 aka Bartman, 99toLife, and Skymangs) They're made primarily from 4x4 in. 11 GA tubing.

The front mount is placed 2 in. behind the oval hole on the frame, I can thank Bartman for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdgYy5YtW8k.

Thanks for this. I used your mount design on my build and location of the front mounts. The height would have been the most difficult to figure out so this saved me lots of time. Then I used a wood template to place the rears. Only difference is I am going to use angle iron for the backside of the mount so I can run things on top of the frame.

[skymangs]

J Hall; This is the surface mount vent I'm talking about.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Air...53.m1438.l2649
and you'll put it in a housing like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-AIR...LH_TitleDesc=0

[J_Hall]

Thank you skymangs! I see what you mean now

[KRFitz]

I'm looking for rear axle recommendations. I'm using a 2001 S10 for my swap and I would like a wider rear axle for proper tire width. I see the 4 x 4 models suggested, but when searching the auto wreckers what years would I need to look for? Do some years have disc breaks, etc.? Do I need to find a matching gear ratio? Mine is a GU4 code 3.08 ratio. Thanks,

[joedoh]

98+blazers/jimmys (2wd and 4x4) have rear discs. the only reason to find a matching ratio is if you are using the stock s10 tire sizes, transmission and gauges, otherwise you will probably benefit in acceleration by going to a numerically higher ratio.

the difference in braking performance with rear discs is negligible. the appropriately sized drums will do the same job as discs on the rear of the truck, but they sure look cooler than drums on wheels with big windows.

4x4 axles are about 4 inches wider (2" per side) than a 2wd axle. there is a model called a ZR2 that got an even wider axle, about 4 inches wider per side AND will come as an 8.5 rear end, very strong.

[KRFitz]

So, if I'm not to worried about disc brakes or gear ratio, I can look for and use any year 4x4 S10/Blazer/Jimmy? Thanks,

[tlorber]

You should first have an idea of what tires and wheels (and their offsets) you want to use, unless you plan on tubbing the bed.

I have a '70 Chevelle axle on my back end and I still had to use 1/2 inch spacers to push the wheels out so that they wouldn't hit the bed sides. I want to be able to carry plywood or drywall occasionally, so I wanted to keep the appx 49" bed width. If you plan on running tubs, you have a lot more flexibility on your axle width.

[KRFitz]

Originally Posted by tlorber

You should first have an idea of what tires and wheels (and their offsets) you want to use, unless you plan on tubbing the bed.

I have a '70 Chevelle axle on my back end and I still had to use 1/2 inch spacers to push the wheels out so that they wouldn't hit the bed sides. I want to be able to carry plywood or drywall occasionally, so I wanted to keep the appx 49" bed width. If you plan on running tubs, you have a lot more flexibility on your axle width.

Great point on the 4ft wide material hauling. Thanks,

[Black93GT]

Originally Posted by joedoh

i have done it, saves a lot of time. this is the result on the latest 41

Oh man I wish I did that. Drilling and grinding the firewall to match was time consuming.



Fitz
The rear end selection is a balancing act. Know your transmission gearing. Make a flexible decision on wheel and tire combo... Then a target cruise RPM based on your goal of acceleration vs highway speed. At that point you can calculate what rear end gearing and width you'll need. You can order a custom rear end, but for readily available junkyard parts you may have to change a few decisions.

It may be sacraligeous but I'm running an explorer rear end in my truck. It's the right width for my wheels and the 3.73 ratio I needed to give me a comfortable RPM to cruise 75-80mph on the freeway.

[Wyattdog2]

when trying to put the front fenders and sheet metal back on the truck with a new s10 frame, is it best to start with the radiator support then the inner and outer fenders? I am trying to figure out how much I need to trim the inner fenders actually. oopps, think I was on the wrong page.

[joedoh]

when I put the front end on for mock up, I put the whole clip together (truthfully on most trucks I dont even take it apart), cut the core support and inner fenders where skymangs indicates on the first page of this thread. I get a helper (usually its my left arm helping my right though) and get the rear of the fenders with a couple bolts to the cab (just one on each side), then use a jack to set the front height by shutting the hood to be sure everything lines up. the jack will let you lift/trim/lower/check hood alignment.

I see people take the whole front end all the way apart and dont really understand why. sure if you are doing a real paint job or have collision damage (like my current truck) it makes sense, but if you are just doing a rust-oration and an cruiser s10 swap you can leave it all together. if you unbolt it at the cab (inners and outer fenders) and unbolt/cut the core support, its pretty easy to use leverage and tilt it over the fenders.

[NovaArt]

anyone out there i'm new to forum i have 87 s10 118 wheelbase frame i used code 504 frame kit . I diden't like how high it was so i cut there kit to make cab 3'" off frame. cut rad support the same.Now when i pre fit grill the grill brackets hit the frame the frame horns There are cut just in front of the steering box.And now the rad is 3"high above support I'm getting frustrated was going to sell s10 frame going with stock frame i have a lot in this frame can anyone help novaart

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by NovaArt

anyone out there i'm new to forum i have 87 s10 118 wheelbase frame i used code 504 frame kit . I diden't like how high it was so i cut there kit to make cab 3'" off frame. cut rad support the same.Now when i pre fit grill the grill brackets hit the frame the frame horns There are cut just in front of the steering box.And now the rad is 3"high above support I'm getting frustrated was going to sell s10 frame going with stock frame i have a lot in this frame can anyone help novaart

Post pictures. You have to cut the frame horns back pretty far.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by NovaArt

I diden't like how high it was so i cut there kit to make cab 3'" off frame.

put the cut back in the kit. the code 504 kit puts the running boards below the bottom of the framerails. the space between the cab floor and the top of the frame doesnt really mean anything about how low the truck will be, I have 2" drop spindles and 2" springs with 4" leaf springs on a self made kit that is as tall as the code 504 setup and the running boards are only 4.5 inches off the ground. I could bag it on stock control arms and a small notch and lay the running boards flat on 29" tall tires. the extra height of the body mounts doesnt mean anything to how low the truck will be, it just makes the problems that you have noted worse.

there is a local metal banger that throws these together by bolting the cab straight to the frame. he has to lean the radiator way out in front of the core support and his grilles are all cut up.

put the extra you cut out back in.

[NovaArt]

with the code 504 kit befor cutting kit the running boards were 9'' of ground hade 2' above front tire way to high by cutting cab mounts 3' bring running boards 5'' of ground

[NovaArt]

that is with 2' drop spindles and 3' front drop springs