My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[jlsanborn]

I do have them in there and lined up with the bolts

Good point though!

[mcbassin]

Bummer about the header clearance but, dang it's good to see the cab back on there

[jlsanborn]

I knew it would be a crap shoot. Was originally an I6. I bought '67 V8 stands then decided to go clam-shell. The stands I have now are square body. I also ditched the cast bell housing and cross member and went to a square body trans cross member. From there I chucked it all together for the best fit I could but figured I'd be whittlin once I got to this point. Angle finder on the motor shows about 6 degrees relative to the chassis centerline. I figure I can drop the motor an inch or better, which should get me closer to 3 degrees and hopefully a bunch more clearance at the collector.

[Bomp]

I noticed in the info on the headers it stated:

1967-91 Vehicles: Part# 69090 & 69230 may require removal of Rubber Snubber
mounted on right side frame rail w/ 3bolt bracket, to complete installation. ........... I believe this would tilt the motor down enough for clearance.
Link to the page I read here ~~~~~>http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/69010/10002/-1
although yours are 69010, correct.

I'd try every which way before cutting the header cause that'll void the lifetime warranty.
Rootin for ya. You'll get it.
Its probably not an option on this build but you know I'd have that floor hacked up by now. Mmmmmmmmm hackin'

[Seventy Two]

Hi Jlsanborn. Your truck is taking shape.

I am going to be coming down that way and was wondering if you know of any sheet metal suppliers in the area? I'm considering buying a complete floor pan. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks and hope you get the header issue sorted out.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Seventy Two

Hi Jlsanborn. Your truck is taking shape.

I am going to be coming down that way and was wondering if you know of any sheet metal suppliers in the area? I'm considering buying a complete floor pan. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks and hope you get the header issue sorted out.

I don't know for certain but you might try these guys....

A-Star distributing
7614 N Market St, Spokane, WA 99217
(509) 467-6809
http://www.astardistributing.com/

If they don't, they'll probably know who does.

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Bomp

I noticed in the info on the headers it stated:

1967-91 Vehicles: Part# 69090 & 69230 may require removal of Rubber Snubber
mounted on right side frame rail w/ 3bolt bracket, to complete installation. ........... I believe this would tilt the motor down enough for clearance.
Link to the page I read here ~~~~~>http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/69010/10002/-1
although yours are 69010, correct.

I'd try every which way before cutting the header cause that'll void the lifetime warranty.
Rootin for ya. You'll get it.
Its probably not an option on this build but you know I'd have that floor hacked up by now. Mmmmmmmmm hackin'

Now this ain't "Bomp's Big-N-Tall Hot Rod Alteration Shop" but I sure did hack the cab floor. That was a while back when I got the bell housing, shifter and jazz. What I did was use clam shell mounts and some engine stands from a square body. Had to trim the pinch seam in the tunnel and cut my low hump down the center and across to slightly raise it for transmission clearance. What I finally figgered out with these headers is that my motor was WAY too high. I fabbed my own stands and basically got the motor as low and as far back as I could and still have good clearance. Turned out awesome, except now I wish I hadn't cut my floor up! I can cut my patches out of the hump and weld it back up like it was but what a drag! The whole deal is sitting at about 4 degrees but I know my ride height and rake is not exactly where it's gonna be. I've got header clearance to fab a cross member that'll allow me to fine tune that angle when I get to driveline day and set the pinion angle.

For my stands I simply match drilled a plate to the clam shell mount, bolted them together and welded the nuts on the backside. I used good OEM flanged ones and welded them good. Put those back on the motor, jockeyed it around till I was happy, then cut the right shape "wedges" to get them onto the front member. It's all 3/16" material and once I'm sure it's all where I want it I'll weld it home. I had to clearance the driver's frame rail a little and it looks like hell in the pics. I was just smoking little bits off until it fit and I'll go back and clean that up straight like with radiuses.

That's as far as I got when the Boy blew the S10 ("Punching-Bag" Thanks Chip!) apart in there for his new heads. Got that finished up around 1 friggen thirty this morning! I'll throw a few pics up on Stupid Move, maybe a burnout vid... He's got some cleaning to do then I'll build me a cross member!

[sduckworth13]

The bed turned out real nice John. Keep up the great work!

[Bomp]

Good job on gettin it squeezed in there.
Thats gonna clear on any motor rockin' yeah?

Saw the vid, Massive smokey burnout, when its all said and done you gonna lay down some big'ol black lines to show the boy how its done?!!?!!!!

[Low Elco]

Fat Patch, Baby! Show that little fart what's happenin'! Work looks good, Can't wait to see it bangin' 4-gears!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

The bed turned out real nice John. Keep up the great work!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Bomp

Good job on gettin it squeezed in there.
Thats gonna clear on any motor rockin' yeah?

Saw the vid, Massive smokey burnout, when its all said and done you gonna lay down some big'ol black lines to show the boy how its done?!!?!!!!

Your's is squeezed dude! I could probably turn mine 90 and put a transaxle in there I've got a little clearancing work to do on the driver's frame rail yet but I think it's gonna be good.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Fat Patch, Baby! Show that little fart what's happenin'! Work looks good, Can't wait to see it bangin' 4-gears!

Same here Chip, same here! I don't have a whole bunch to do on the chassis then it's motor time $$$$$$$$

[Dean'smeanmachine]

what a cool build

[jlsanborn]

Thanks! I've flipped through your '72 build a bit and will be back to read some more.

[jlsanborn]

It's been slow on the truck lately but I did stuff today. I jacked up the trans to the location I want and got measurements for a cross member that I'll be building here soon. I tossed the seat back in and mounted the shifter to see how that was all going to be with the new motor location. Everything looks good and the shifter feels perfect. It's FUN to row through the gears with that Hurst shifter! I cut apart my previous "stretchy job" on the hump and got it back to where it was. I had to patch where I cut the pinch weld out then goobered it up with seam sealer. I got the cab and bed back on the dollies and am picking up materials for the cross member tomorrow. Now to finish up my engine stands then I'm onto exhaust. I think I'm going to order up some Flowmaster Super 10 Series, offset/offset in a 2-1/2 and maybe some balance pipe fittings and hanger hardware.

[Low Elco]

Looks like a truck! Yaay! Love the upholstery!

[Bomp]

Flowmaster Super 10 Series, I've got some of those on the '67 behind the shop. You'll love them.
Progress is progress, Lookin good

[sduckworth13]

Looking good John, after looking at the bed again it's impossible to tell it had been shortened. Nice work!

[808_67C10]

Woa!!! Cab, bed, motor... Pretty soon... Tire melting burnouts

[Vic1947]

Nice work, John. It's always a great feeling when parts start going back together.

[Dean'smeanmachine]

looks amazing. cant wait to be to the point of the cab back on

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Looks like a truck! Yaay! Love the upholstery!

That's a special fabric. Biodegradable

Originally Posted by Bomp

Flowmaster Super 10 Series, I've got some of those on the '67 behind the shop. You'll love them.
Progress is progress, Lookin good

Two steps forward and one step back will still get me there I guess. Just ordered those Super 10's but am wonderin about welding them (stainless) to steel exhaust tubing. I've got some stainless wire, suppose I'll need a different shield gas?

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Looking good John, after looking at the bed again it's impossible to tell it had been shortened. Nice work!

Thanks man! I'm pretty happy with the results but there's some filler in there. I'm sure there'll be a few touches more once I get to blocking it down too.

Originally Posted by 808_67C10

Woa!!! Cab, bed, motor... Pretty soon... Tire melting burnouts

I've got the cab and bed back off and on the dollies but it was hard to do cuz it looked awful cool mocked up like that! I want to get my roller chassis and motor done then I'll bite the bullet and paint the sucker. The YZF is gone and I'm down to one bike in the shop - mine!

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Nice work, John. It's always a great feeling when parts start going back together.

Thanks Vic! I'm pretty sure the only greasy / nasty thing I've got left in inventory is the motor. Hoping to get the block, crank and heads out for tank and magnaflux here soon! Nice job on the wiring last week!


I picked up some tubing and flat bar to build the trans cross member yesterday but when I got home the Boy had another truck tore to $hit in the shop. I helped with that circus so no project work. I'm gonna try and get out there tonight and build something!

[Bomp]

Here is a link to answer your next welding task : "The Exhaust" Wha ha ha ha
Number 4. I believe is your answer.
Good luck buddy.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...tips/MIG_tips/

[jlsanborn]

Eeks! Looks like that says "trimix". I have the ER308L wire. I prolly can't justify a new bottle just to weld four tubes..... I'm using the CO2/argon blend now. Maybe worth a try?

[Bennett68C10]

Looking really good with the cab and bed on.

[mcbassin]

Very nice progress! the bed and floor looks great too. Keep up all the hard work.