A '54 named Busty

[dsraven]

http://www.pontiacstreetperformance....distcurve.html

[dsraven]

leak down test


https://www.google.ca/search?q=leak+...T5-gSio4rQDA30

[dsraven]

compression test

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCR6wahr9FU

[dsraven]

since the intake is off look down the intake ports and check the back sides of the valves for the "umbrella" of oil sludge that tends to build up there and can cause valve leakage.

another compression test DIY, not a you tube

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...mpression-test

[dsraven]

ported vs manifold vacuum
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p6w9-BDu1JU

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/add...gnition-timing

[dsraven]

disconnect any other vac users, like brake booster.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Google
leak down test
Compression test
Timing gear lash check
Distributor mechanical advance check for ease of movement and wear
Dist cap check
Dist power supply and wire gauge check
Distributor coil ground wire check
Dist high tension terminal through top of cap
Rotor integrity check- air gap to cap terminals
Ensure intake gasket was sealing, if work was done to engine, like heads machined, sometimes too much can be planed off so angle relationship to intake is not the same and gasket has a hard time making up the void difference.
Since you say poor spark check dizzy completely. Large gauge supply wire from appropriately sized ign supply
Ground strap in dizzy sometimes gets missed being put back in but is required
Check coil for signs of overheating
When all that checks out get a baseline on the engine condition. Compression specs dry and wet, leak down test to check for valve leakage valve adjustment and check each valve for correct lift to ensure you dont have a worn off cam lobe or a bad rocker. Then set engine at tdc ready to fire and adjust dizzy to match close enough to start up.
Just some ideas. Hope it gets you going.

thank you for all the great suggestions, doing the Compression and Leak down tests right now as we speak (holding the compression for 3 minutes on each cylinder)

#1. 180 PSI
#2. 165 PSI
#3. 180 PSI
#4. 180 PSI
#5. 180 PSI
#6. 210 PSI (In 30 years of chevy small blocking, never seen one this high on a streeter?!?!?!)
#7. 165 PSI
#8. 200 PSI

NOTE: order of testing: did the driver side first (1,3,5,7) then did the passenger side (2,4,6,8) so maybe as the jugs got more oily they sealed better, may reverse the order and do another test later

[dsraven]

timing chain slack check. on a ford inline 6 but still relative. doesn't have to be on tdc to check but helps becauise there is a mark on the damper in that spot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_f5ukZVri8

[dsraven]

numbers look good so far as far as pressures. high end if anything meaning carbon deposits or engine work was done previous to your knowledge. didn't do the math to figure out percentages, lol. a leakdown test can easily be done too if you have a quick connect you can use on your comp tester. I like to put a pressure regulator or valve inline first so it can be turned on slow, that way if the crank isn't in just the right spot at tdc the engine doesn't crank over by itself from the air pressure. I know, the leakdown tester should have 2 gauges but a simple test can be done by pressuring up the cylinder and then checking at the exhaust pipe and intake to listen for air leaks. big leak, big problem. small leak, hmmm, whats going on. more checks needed. a dry then wet comp test can also tell a lot as far as rings leaking (comp comes up a bunch from the dry test) or valves leaking (comp doesn't really come up much from the dry test)
anyway, keep us posted.

[Gregski]

Proform part number 66792 tool I am using to find/confirm Top Dead Center TDC

[Gregski]

lets find the TDC together

after making sure the TDC mark on the balancer is no where near TDC I start by screwing in the Proform TDC tool all the way in, gently

then using a special home made adapter (three way puller uses the pulley bolts instead of the crank bolt to to turn the engine) I turn the crank clockwise until the #1 piston tops out ie hits the stopper we screwed in

I mark that spot with a yellow grease pen on the balancer (note our third tooth from the right is the TDC 0 mark) as a reference the actual white TDC mark on the balancer is counter clockwise from this mark (not visible on the first pic)

[Gregski]

now we start to turn the crank by hand the other way ie counter clockwise until again the #1 piston tops our by butting up gently against the stopper we screwed in to the #1 spark plug hole and we make our second Yellow mark at the third tooth from the right (bottom in the pic) ie TDC or 0°

now as a reference the stock original white TDC mark on the harmonic balancer can be seen bellow this mark as it should be, now the question is, is it exactly precisely in between our two yellow marks?

[Gregski]

and yes yes it is the stock OEM white TDC mark on the harmonic balancer falls right smack dab in the middle of our two yellow marks

[dsraven]

Since intake is off, check your lifters to ensure each one moves up/down the same, in and exh.
Did your tdc checker unscrew with carbon on the end? Do you have access to a camera you can see into each cyl? Especially high compression one?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Since intake is off, check your lifters to ensure each one moves up/down the same, in and exh.
Did your tdc checker unscrew with carbon on the end? Do you have access to a camera you can see into each cyl? Especially high compression one?

checker came out clean, sorry no camera that would be nice to have though

[dsraven]

ok, earlier post that pressures looked good was with an unfinished test. 210 is high. maybe do another test to see if you come up with the same results on the same cylinders. rule out a bad gauge. dry tests are usually all done first, then the wet test, one cyl gets oiled at a time just prior to the testing instead of oiling them all then testing.
anyway, reasons for high compression are usually carbon deposit related or a fluid leak into the cylinder. a non lifting exh valve may also skew the comp test.
have you done a timing chain slack test?

[dsraven]

holding the compression for 3 mins is sort of irrelevant because most comp testers have a schrader (tire) style valve in the hose end to keep the pressure in the gauge and then a push style valve near the gauge to release the pressure when done so the tester can be removed.

[dsraven]

10 percent difference between high and low is the limit usually allowed. keep digging for the reason I guess.
bent pushrod?
lifter collapsed
rocker issue
did you have a fouled plug on any cylinder?
when it was running last was there any issues? backfire through carb, poor idle, vac gauge needle not steady?

redo comp test and compare results
check pushrods for bends, just turn them while still installed for a quick tell. also check for any really loose ones
check movement of lifters and compare exh to exh and intake to intake
look for a lifter that may be collapsed
check rocker movement the same way, look for a pulling out rocker stud as well. a straight edge across them all should be the quick tell. look for a valve that is protruding more or less than others of the, intake or exh

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

10 percent difference between high and low is the limit usually allowed. keep digging for the reason I guess.
bent pushrod?
lifter collapsed
rocker issue
did you have a fouled plug on any cylinder?
when it was running last was there any issues? backfire through carb, poor idle, vac gauge needle not steady?

redo comp test and compare results
check pushrods for bends, just turn them while still installed for a quick tell. also check for any really loose ones
check movement of lifters and compare exh to exh and intake to intake
look for a lifter that may be collapsed
check rocker movement the same way, look for a pulling out rocker stud as well. a straight edge across them all should be the quick tell. look for a valve that is protruding more or less than others of the, intake or exh

checked all the lifters, pushrods, and rockers all seem within spec, my money is still on an vacuum leak somewhere, putting her all back together... report at 11

[dsraven]

yep, stick it back together, check spark, check fuel, check timing, crank it, see what happens. if it starts, adjust timing roughly, let it warm up, readjust timing, check max timing advance mechanism etc, check for leaks etc. hope for the best. try starting again when it's cold.
still, check all the other pointers from the previous posts, if you want, like advance mechanism, wire cause to dizzy, coil ground etc. cause you're there anyway.
good luck. hope you get it running

[Gregski]

6:00 pm

[dsraven]

Running?

[Gregski]

three hours later (9:00 PM)

[Gregski]

FOR SALE: Ran When Parked

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Running?

it ran but wouldn't even idle below 1100 so I decided to punt, no sense putting more money and time into an engine I planned on pulling and selling before I even bought that truck, I'm sure it's something silly I am overlooking, maybe a loose timing chain