S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by NovaArt

that is with 2' drop spindles and 3' front drop springs

toss the code 504 kit and follow my instructions, you'll be happy that you did.

once you cut the cab brackets nothing else will fit. everything is based off that cab to frame height. IMHO nothing looks right on a finished truck with one of those kits, the gaps are all wrong. if you read this thread from the beginning you'll see step by step instructions with diagrams and measurements. if you can cut down 504 brackets, you can do this!
besides you have to pick brains with!

[KRFitz]

Working on lowering my front end. I cut 1" of height off the S10 front coil springs to get 2" of drop. What is the most that can be cut off before things start getting strange? I'm hoping to avoid buying drop spindles and get all my lowering out of shortening the springs.

[NovaArt]

thanks skymangs started looking at your build on page 8 will continue tomorrow

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by NovaArt

with the code 504 kit befor cutting kit the running boards were 9'' of ground hade 2' above front tire way to high by cutting cab mounts 3' bring running boards 5'' of ground

something is not adding up, and its not just your math (9" - 3" cut = 5"?) also, what tires are you running? if you have a 235/75/15 on it thats a 29.5" tall tire!

the code 504 kit is made to put the running boards about an inch below the frame. you said you changed out the front coils for lowering springs so that means you probably dont have Z85 springs (the high ride springs) in there any more. skymangs brackets with stock s10 bushings put the running boards in almost the same spot. also, the interference you are having with the radiator after cutting confirms that the code 504 kit is roughly the same height as skymangs lowered brackets.

a lot of guys see the cab on the frame and it LOOKS really tall, but its not actually. let me tell you from experience, skymangs lowered mounts with a 2" spring and 2" drop spindle puts the running boards about 3.5" off the ground, and that having the running boards 3.5" off the ground lets the front bumper scrub the crown in the road! this is all with plenty of clearance for a 19x22 rad. you are saying with 3" more out of the kit, and 5" of front drop you are still at 5", I say impossible. that would be almost flat on the ground.

do you have the motor in? trans? front clip on? running boards on? bed? because if you just have the cab on the frame its going to look a mile high.

[skymangs]

I 100% agree with joedoh. the math is just not adding up (math is hard). I can tell you that my version 2 brackets with stock springs, 2" drop spindles, and 2"' blocks in the rear will net you the forward edge of the boards 5" off the ground. do not doubt me on this! I've built hundreds! and stay away from dropped springs and cut coils. with dropped spindles you still get full suspension travel. dropped springs and cut coils ride like $hit anyway!

[dettmer13]

Question for you guys. I browsed the thread for awhile and couldn't find what I was looking for.

I used SKYMANGS cab mount design and everything bolted up. I was wondering what the cab height off the frame should be both front and back. I'm not sure if it should be level or what, but if someone could provide me those measurements, I'm sure it will make putting the rest of the body together much easier. Also, let me know to what point on the cab you measure to. As we all know, pictures are worth a 1000 hours of work.....

Thanks in adavnce!!

[joedoh]

the mounts give the height in their dimensions, just add the inch of the body mount to it. so if you use his version 2 brackets for example, the front mount is 3 1/4 tall off the frame plus the inch for the bushing, so 4 1/4. in the back its 4" tall, plus the inch is 5". the height difference is because the front has an underfloor brace that the body bushing will mount to, but the rear does not (on shackle mount cabs you have to trim the floor support to get the body bushing to mount flat

so the flat of the AD floor should be 5" off the flat part of the frame, the front section of the frame takes a ~1/2" dip

[ghettoluxury]

I’ve read all of this thread and Skymags builds along with a lot of other S10 swap builds. My question is with the version 2 mounts does the cab floor remain flat? Also does the bed floor remain at the same height and retain the factory cross sills? Everything I have read makes me believe that the bed floor will raise 1/2 inch.

[joedoh]

the version 2 are the taller mounts, right? thats what is labeled version 2.

with the short mounts, if I had an extra inch in height between the cab and frame I wouldnt need much of a trans bump. if I did it would only be because of the bellhousing, and only from how far I move the motor back, which is more than some guys do


for the floor of the bed it all depends on how you are mounting the floor. if you use the stock bed crossmembers and bed wood, I think the taller mounts would let you keep the floor intact. you might have to modify the bed crossmembers around the gas tank/axle. as it stands, I use the shorter version of skymangs mounts and the stock s10 bed floor, and it moves up about an inch.

[skymangs]

IIRC version 2 are the shorter ones.

with my design the bed floor moves from below the edge angle strips to above, it's really hardly noticeable. And with my design the bed is so much more sturdy and usable there really is no comparison.

[ghettoluxury]

Thanks for all the information Skymangs. I have made my mounts based on your version 1 mounts. They’re the same height due to the to me using Dodge poly mounts that are 1/2” different front to rear.

[28TudorAZ]

On the s10 proportioning valve I am assuming the rear of it goes to the front?

[joedoh]

thats the way mine is

[skymangs]

Those mounts look real good, remember to bend the legs out 15deg. for frame strength. now I’ll have to go back and look, now I'm remembering versos 1 as the short ones.

[skymangs]

The version 1's are 31/4" above the frame, version 2's are 41/4". Version 1's ARE shorter!

[my80schild]

e brake decisions

Ok apologize in advance if this has been expressed already but I have these 34 pages a few times in the past year and can't recall or find the answer.

I don't have the OEM parts for the s10 or 3100 for my an e-brake. what is everyone using as far as e-brakes go. I'm looking for something clean that is on the drivers side kick panel. hopefully to line up the the original s10 e-brake cables into the cab. picture would really help if anyones got some.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by my80schild

e brake decisions

Ok apologize in advance if this has been expressed already but I have these 34 pages a few times in the past year and can't recall or find the answer.

I don't have the OEM parts for the s10 or 3100 for my an e-brake. what is everyone using as far as e-brakes go. I'm looking for something clean that is on the drivers side kick panel. hopefully to line up the the original s10 e-brake cables into the cab. picture would really help if anyones got some.

I just picked up the cable and mechanism from an 1994 Chevrolet c1500. It has a longer arm on the pedal and longer cable.

[tlorber]

How did you mount the pedal? Do you have any pics?

[my80schild]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

I just picked up the cable and mechanism from an 1994 Chevrolet c1500. It has a longer arm on the pedal and longer cable.

thanks 28TudorAZ for your response back.

does or can the c1500 e-brake mechanism hide up in the dash? I would love if there is enough room for the brake mechanism to hide up in the dash near the drivers kick panel and just have the pedal hanging down.

[KRFitz]

What's everyone doing for shortening/replacing drive shafts? I need to shorten mine about 11". Would like to go one piece. I should be able to loose the center bearing. Getting quotes around $600 - $800 to make one up. Any known longer car drive shafts a guy can salvage, have cut down and save a little cost?

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by KRFitz

What's everyone doing for shortening/replacing drive shafts? I need to shorten mine about 11". Would like to go one piece. I should be able to loose the center bearing. Getting quotes around $600 - $800 to make one up. Any known longer car drive shafts a guy can salvage, have cut down and save a little cost?

Any 90s chevy c1500 one should work.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by my80schild

thanks 28TudorAZ for your response back.

does or can the c1500 e-brake mechanism hide up in the dash? I would love if there is enough room for the brake mechanism to hide up in the dash near the drivers kick panel and just have the pedal hanging down.

I haven't mounted it yet but it should fit up there.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by my80schild

e brake decisions

Ok apologize in advance if this has been expressed already but I have these 34 pages a few times in the past year and can't recall or find the answer.

I don't have the OEM parts for the s10 or 3100 for my an e-brake. what is everyone using as far as e-brakes go. I'm looking for something clean that is on the drivers side kick panel. hopefully to line up the the original s10 e-brake cables into the cab. picture would really help if anyones got some.

try http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=541904 I used the s10 ebrake. But, if you’re using an automatic why even bother with an ebrake?

[Clay54]

I think in Texas it's a requirement to have an e-brake. No e-brake, no inspection sticker. Clay

[tlorber]

I recently sold a building for a client of mine that just moved out of California. His company name was Wenco and he built driveshafts. He moved to Colorado, where he is just getting set up, but he will still build them on a case by case basis. I can't imagine them being more than a couple hundred dollars. I think when he built the one for my truck a few years back it was around $175.00.

Let me know if you want his contact info.