1976 Square "Simple Green"

[LostMy65]

I've been considering this one:
Www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-602026

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I've been considering this one:
Www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-602026

I was looking at that one also but I had to turn it down because of the "plastic black smoked hose cover". The bend radius is much bigger with that cover on it compare to no cover.
It's a bummer because I really don't like "bling" on my Jeep, all my stainless steel has been powder coated. I don't want to be mistaken for a "Mall Crawler". It's really killing me to put the stainless braid hose in my engine compartment and the black hose I found either has crimp fittings or doesn't take abrasion and heat well. Not something you might worry about on a street truck but I kick up junk under my Jeep offroad and I'm trying to bombproof everything so I only have to do it once.


Shh... I have a secret....don't tell anyone.
I'm going to get the stainless braid hose and leave it like it is under the Jeep but where it comes up in the engine compartment I'm going to use a hose cover.
http://www.techflex.com/prod_fgn.asp
It's rated up to 1200 degrees and has great chemical resistance.

[diceman50]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

.
Keep us updated.
I like all the arguments you and your friends made.

Originally Posted by swampbog

That's the same issues I was wonder about, gasket and the stud with powder coating.
Please, please take a picture after you get the ground wire hooked up and tell us how it does.

I will make up a ground wire tomorrow and install it onto the throttle body and post a picture. It is going to be a while before we install the unit on his car. I need to finish the supercharger install on my Apache first.

[RodsGreen10]

This is what I did.
1. Ran a ground from carb mounting stud direct to battery.

Test started it this way nothing changed on the start but the screen stopped going white on no start crank.

So then I did.
2. Red wire from FiTech harness direct to battery. This still did not change anything on cold start.

Now here is a observation on cold crank.
Turn key on listen to injectors fire crank key hold key at crank and then roll into the pedal. The ***** fires up. It fires up everytime I do that. Key on injectors fire crank vehicle roll into throttle fires up. Now when rolling into throttle this is a guess it would be .25-.50. It's something in the programming I do believe. I sent this exact post to Jeremy at FiTech I want to see what his thought are.

So the way I have it wired/hooked up nothing wrong with it. Cause I unhooked it wired it up the way I had it before but did leave the ground until tomorrow. I get the good grounds tomorrow. And it does exactly what I post up top.

[Crushkrew]

So by rolling into throttle she starts cold every time?

If nothing else that is great news...

Was it this thread or another where fitech had someone crack open the blades with an adjustment to cure a cold start problem? ..I don't recall as I think I have read every post out there on the Fitech at this point...

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Crushkrew

So by rolling into throttle she starts cold every time?

If nothing else that is great news...

Was it this thread or another where fitech had someone crack open the blades with an adjustment to cure a cold start problem? ..I don't recall as I think I have read every post out there on the Fitech at this point...

Yes everytime.

I posted about setting the butterflies. It is IAC step. Needs to read between 5-10 when engine is at operating temp. FiTech states operating temp is at 170.
Also by pressing the throttle it cancels the pump shot from the FiTech.

[Crushkrew]

Well...hopefully fitech tech can come up with a setting that allows...for foot-free cold start...but in any event you gotta be pretty stoked now....rolling into the throttle is no biggie...

[swampbog]

Yep sounds like it's something to do with the program or an actual adjustment on the throttle body.

Well hopefully Ken gets back to you quickly, you get the adjustment done and no more problems.

Still think it needs a dedicated ground wire coming off the unit from the manufacture.

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by Crushkrew

Well...hopefully fitech tech can come up with a setting that allows...for foot-free cold start...but in any event you gotta be pretty stoked now....rolling into the throttle is no biggie...

Check out the last post on this forum (post #217)
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...70#post8408570

my car sat for 3 days and the engine temp read 39 when I went to start it up today. Car fired right up and idled just fine, still seems to have a heavy fuel smell until up to temp

This is the way it should be.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by swampbog

Yep sounds like it's something to do with the program or an actual adjustment on the throttle body.

Well hopefully Ken gets back to you quickly, you get the adjustment done and no more problems.

Still think it needs a dedicated ground wire coming off the unit from the manufacture.

Yes and yes

[RodsGreen10]

It should fire up with the turn of a key. If I wanted to play with throttle I would have just kept a carb. Just sayin.

[ray1970]

Ray here.
I didn't get the time to swap bodies yesterday.
Went tobogganing and had a bon fire with the family. (Rockwell moment)

My problem with the adder body is I have to roll on the throttle about 75% of the time
to get it started but it will run... A bit rich..... not so with the std body? it just ran.
Swapping chips is out at this time.

That's how I remember it anyway....

My current thinking with my issue is a possible bad injector or software ....
My only injector flow tester is for snowmobiles and would take far to much time to adapt..

Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.
I didn't get the time to swap bodies yesterday.
Went tobogganing and had a bon fire with the family. (Rockwell moment)

My problem with the adder body is I have to roll on the throttle about 75% of the time
to get it started but it will run... A bit rich..... not so with the std body? it just ran.
Swapping chips is out at this time.

That's how I remember it anyway....

My current thinking with my issue is a possible bad injector or software ....
My only injector flow tester is for snowmobiles and would take far to much time to adapt..

Ray.

So you are saying with the power adder FiTech body you have to roll into the throttle so it will start also?

[ray1970]

Ray here..

Yes that's what am saying and having to do...
I do want to change body's just to see if I have became confused after all the things
that I have done...

Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here..

Yes that's what am saying and having to do...
I do want to change body's just to see if I have became confused after all the things
that I have done...

Ray.

Hmmm. Interesting.

[ray1970]

Ray here.

I really hope there is a change ....we will see...

But first I have to go get my snowmobile trailer that's on the side of the road
with a blown tire.....The good times just never stop......

Ray.

[LostMy65]

RG10, is yours also power adder?

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

RG10, is yours also power adder?

Yes it is. I have the EFI 8. The 1200 HP one.

[ray1970]

Ray here.

I only have the 4 shooter adder you went for the BIG shooter..

Can you say penis envy..
The only reason I went with the adder was the software AND I'm going to put it on a friend mud truck in February for a winter up hill run and they tend to use NOS.....Without much luck...Lets just melt this motor down one more time..

Ray.

[diceman50]

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

This is what I did.
1. Ran a ground from carb mounting stud direct to battery.

Test started it this way nothing changed on the start but the screen stopped going white on no start crank.

So then I did.
2. Red wire from FiTech harness direct to battery. This still did not change anything on cold start.

Now here is a observation on cold crank.
Turn key on listen to injectors fire crank key hold key at crank and then roll into the pedal. The ***** fires up. It fires up everytime I do that. Key on injectors fire crank vehicle roll into throttle fires up. Now when rolling into throttle this is a guess it would be .25-.50. It's something in the programming I do believe. I sent this exact post to Jeremy at FiTech I want to see what his thought are.

So the way I have it wired/hooked up nothing wrong with it. Cause I unhooked it wired it up the way I had it before but did leave the ground until tomorrow. I get the good grounds tomorrow. And it does exactly what I post up top.

After RodsGreen10's report this may be a mute point but, I did it so I am going to post it.

I did the end that goes on the throttle body for now . The other end will be done the same way with an appropriately sized ring terminal when the final length is determined. I don't normally solder a crimped connection but I did this one. If we have any issues I assure you it won't be because of a poor ground. I also intend to remove the powder coating from the top of the throttle body flanges and use star washers under the nut. Like I said before sometimes I ground my grounds.

[swampbog]

Originally Posted by diceman50

After RodsGreen10's report this may be a mute point but, I did it so I am going to post it.

I did the end that goes on the throttle body for now . The other end will be done the same way with an appropriately sized ring terminal when the final length is determined. I don't normally solder a crimped connection but I did this one. If we have any issues I assure you it won't be because of a poor ground. I also intend to remove the powder coating from the top of the throttle body flanges and use star washers under the nut. Like I said before sometimes I ground my grounds.

Thanks for the pics, I don't think it's a mute point as any extra grounds can't hurt but can only help.
After all he did say

Originally Posted by RodsGreen10

nothing changed on the start but the screen stopped going white on no start crank.

As a side note
I always solder my crimp connections. I believe in a mechanical (crimp) and electrical (solder) connection. If it's a insulated wire I then use either dielectric grease and a heat shrink tubing or I use marine grade heat shrink tubing, marine grade has adhesive in it where it's a water tight connection. Of course it's overkill but that's the only way i know how to do things.

[diceman50]

Originally Posted by swampbog

Thanks for the pics, I don't think it's a mute point as any extra grounds can't hurt but can only help.
After all he did say


As a side note
I always solder my crimp connections. I believe in a mechanical (crimp) and electrical (solder) connection. If it's a insulated wire I then use either dielectric grease and a heat shrink tubing or I use marine grade heat shrink tubing, marine grade has adhesive in it where it's a water tight connection. Of course it's overkill but that's the only way i know how to do things.

I hear you swampbog. However I guess I have been working on race cars too long. Solder joints are a no no on race cars, aircraft, and other high vibration vehicles. It seems the solder will wick up the wire past the connector and produce a brittle spot that is prone to breaking. I don't think it is too much of a problem on a street driven vehicle especially if you reinforce it with a good piece of heat shrink like you described. I am going to do that on this joint as well.

[ray1970]

Ray here.

What's behind door NO.1
Not much to see here just a pinched o-ring
I could smell fuel and there was a wet spot that shouldn't have been there.

Door NO.2
The ground wires some people have been wondering about.

Door NO.3
Nothing for that but the day is still early.

Ray.

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by ray1970

Ray here.

What's behind door NO.1
Not much to see here just a pinched o-ring
I could smell fuel and there was a wet spot that shouldn't have been there.

Door NO.2
The ground wires some people have been wondering about.

Door NO.3
Nothing for that but the day is still early.

Ray.

Keep digging Ray maybe you can find out why in the **** we are having to roll into the throttle so the damn power adders will start.

[RodsGreen10]

Tank dropping today!