Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[OrrieG]

Hung the driver doors and front fender, tops and back gaps are good but step sill was too high at the hinge side and about 1/4-3/8" above fender trim line. I looked at old photos and it was not that bad so i assume that when I welded in the hinge pocket it pulled the bottom of the step up. Passenger side is fine. I got out my trusty die cutter, cut loose the previous weld (I have already done the finish paint) and pushed the step down. Lines up good, need to just weld back in a filler and adjust the fender to door gap. Here are some before (bottom pair) and after pics.

[dug224]

Hate to see you go backwards with finished paint but you nailed it. dug

[Kim57]

Fix came out nice.
To bad it was after paint.
Kim

[OrrieG]

I still need to paint the doors, etc so only challenge will be blending. Down in the step it will not be too obvious.

[MIKESAD50]

OrrieG,
Sure asked alot of times, as far as chassis coating, is yours paint or powder coated?
If painted what did you use?
Thanks
Mike

[OrrieG]

Striped the frame, POR-15 in a few areas, nason primer, nason single stage Chassis Black 3 coats.

[OrrieG]

Put the fenders and doors back on to adjust gaps, drivers went fine, need to drop it just a little. passenger was a challenge. Got the fender to cowl and gap to door at the top fine, but bottom over lapped the door about 3/4". After a few evenings of pushing, pulling got it good enough for me. I remembered that when I pulled it apart it had been hit where the bottom front of the fender, grill surround and inner panel all come together. I straightened out all the bent metal, but suspect it was left in that configuration by the PO's body man to get stuff to work. I probably bent some of it back (had to use the porta power and BFH to relieve tension so stuff would not just snap back). Not perfect, but these trucks were not from the factory so good enough for me. I also dropped the hood on to make sure I was not getting things to where it would not fit, without the hinges connected or springs if fits just right assuming the correct gaps from all the rubber bumpers, etc. Now it back to finishing up the body work on the fenders and bed sides.

[OrrieG]

Here are photos of the drivers door btm and step after welding up the gap, etc.

[Kim57]

Looking pretty good.
Kim

[_Ogre]

one thing about these trucks is they flex a lot
any where my gaps are close, the paint inevitably chips
one issue i have is where the curved A pillar meets the door
i suggest you widen this gap

the tf A pillars should be renamed C pillars

[OrrieG]

Good eye, I noticed the same, will drop the door a little. Maybe "reverse S" pillar. I pity the poor guys up north that have them rusted out and have to get them replaced and correct. Drivers side is still a little tight at the top radius, but I need to drop that door too.

[reaper71]

Cool back story on the truck! nice build keep it up!!


Mark...

[OrrieG]

Thanks, kind of stalled now, but expect a cash infusion soon.

[sgtusmc]

It's looking great!

[reaper71]

Cash Infusion!!! I NEED ONE OF THOSE TOO

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by reaper71

Cash Infusion!!! I NEED ONE OF THOSE TOO

Made some decisions that will help in a couple of months.

[_Ogre]

selling your soul, orrieg?

[OrrieG]

Welded a vent connection on to the filler neck. Reviewed parts to buy list. Dug out the title so I can get fire and theft insurance back on the truck, agent says its no longer "parts" covered under the homeowners policy.

[OrrieG]

Back at it, here is a pic of the filler with vent.

Started the AC condenser install. Got a Vintage Air condenser kit for 55-57 because I wanted the dryer on the engine side, 58-59 puts it in prominent view on grille side. I knew the radiator support was different so the grommet hole ending up in the vents was not a surprise. Here are the issues and fixes.

1. I used a big truck radiator, it is 1" deeper. I had not noticed that GM added the equally to each side, pushing the core past the support. This interferes with the VA bracket, which I trimmed to miss the core.
2. The 58-59 radiator support is about 3/8" deeper, at least the one I have is it came out of a GMC, maybe they were different. After checking the clearance for the hose I shimmed the condenser 1/2" off the VA bracket which moved the condenser forward so the fitting would clear (almost). Still had to massage the bracket a little for the fitting nut to turn.
3. VA's hole measurements were off, glad I checked with lines before cutting.
4. Dryer bracket was way off, had to redo the clamp holes.

Here are pics of the mock up, bumper I messed up my nice paint but glad it fits, now need to get the hoses fitted.

[OrrieG]

Finally warmed up so I did my sun visors. First had to enlarge the panel to match the original driver side. The small one is what I got from Classic, they swear it is original and I must have some rare larger optional one. Drilled out the rivet, made a new one out of 1/8" masonite, pop rivet it back. Next cut head liner foam as padding. Next made a pattern so it would drop over the top with blind stitches on end and bottom. Tried french seam on trial but sewing machine foot would not work right. Went to local hot rod upholstry shop and they said they do not do visors for the same reason, all hand stitching and too much time.

Next sewed the end nearest mirror, along bottom and up the other end about 1/2" inside out. Left about 1" of material hanging out of the outside end. Turned it right side out and stuffed the visor panel in. Then, going about 1" at a time, rolled the remaining fabric and used superglue to fasten it. I'm happy, have about $15 in materials, it matches the rest of the interior and will keep the sun out of my eyes.

[Kim57]

Looks real nice.
Kim

[OrrieG]

Been slowly working on the AC and finally got all the lines done. In the process had to change compressor (did not notice I had bought an R12 unit instead of R134) which required some redoing of the lines. I used the 55-57 condenser, dryer and line set from VA. The 55-57 radiator support is different than 58-59. The filler panels on the sides have different configuration for the louvers which means the hole for the lines lands in the louver instead of a flat place, but I wanted the dryer on the engine side. Also I had to shim the condenser about an inch so the lines could attach to the condenser, maybe the early supports are narrower too?? This required shimming the X brace out too as shown in the photo. Do not know if functionally it is as strong but wanted to retain the look. Here are some pics.

[OrrieG]

Worked some today, installed the shift bezel. The 82 Eldo shift used a cable to move the indicator in the bezel. I got an original 64 Chevelle unit with repop graphics to work with the TH350. Need to touch up the paint and add the pointer. Did I mention its a bit warm?? Garage was only 90...

[dyno]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Worked some today, installed the shift bezel. The 82 Eldo shift used a cable to move the indicator in the bezel. I got an original 64 Chevelle unit with repop graphics to work with the TH350. Need to touch up the paint and add the pointer. Did I mention its a bit warm?? Garage was only 90...

No joke on the thermometer! Kicking myself for deciding not to put A/C in my truck! At least we have a little reprieve today in the temps.

Make any progress on the steering mod?

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by dyno

No joke on the thermometer! Kicking myself for deciding not to put A/C in my truck! At least we have a little reprieve today in the temps.

Make any progress on the steering mod?

modified the pitman arm to move two splines towards frame. Shortened the drag link to get minimum length. Picked up a lot more rotation but still about 1/4" off of the spindle bump stop with 215R75-16 tires. If I can find some 205R85-16 I can maintain the diameter I want and they should clear. The guy that did the modification originally is running 84ish axles and they cleared with 235r75-16 tires so geometry of the axle must be a little different.