Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by canadian_diesel1964

man this is a sweet build!!

Thank you Aye! jk

[Chaplain]

Originally Posted by Gregski

friggen Groupies, JK

That's what happens when you do good work.

[Gregski]

so since the transmission did not turn out the color I wanted (too light) I did what any grown man would do, I went crying to my friends

one of my buddies we shall call him Cliff Clavin goes, well you do still have the black POR15 you used on the frame rail don't ya, and I go YEAH, so he says why don't you mix some of that in to darken the gray

OMG - why didn't I think of that, and so I did, and it darkened up, and I think the second coat looks better, what do you all think?

[Gregski]

side by side for good measure, shoot it does look darker in person, not that much in pictures, oh well, I'm happier

[Gregski]

so here is another reason why I like to clean parts, I just realized my clutch fork is broken and we are in need of a replacement

once again had to place an order @ The AutoZone and $18 bucks and 2 days later it will be here

hard to see but I circled the broken end in the pic below

[LSX408]

The darker looks much better!

[Brent7654]

Awesome thread, I've been reading it for the last weak on my breaks at work.
Just caught up current tonight at home....
By the way, I'm local in West Sac...
Very motivating, started cleaning my garage up again to get back to work on mine.....
Thanks
Brent......

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Gregski

is it the 15 oz spray can stuff? What they call Detail Paint? I didn't go for that cause I wanted their rust treatment product, but now I might.

I think my stuff is "Factory Manifold Grey":
http://www.por15.com/HIGH-TEMP_p_104.html

But this Metal Mask stuff looks like it could work too:
http://www.por15.com/METAL-MASK_p_40.html

I've also used the engine enamels, and they are really tough too. So is the Hard Nose 2-part paint.

[bnoon]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Use the white lithium grease. Axle grease is for load-bearing situations such as axle bearings and U-joints and the swivel plates underneath the tires on an alignment rack. It holds up under those loads better than white lithium grease, BUT it has a higher drag to motion than white lithium grease for low-load applications. That is, it is less slippery for low-load applications. Anything other than axle bearings and U-joints on a vehicle, you are better off with white lithium grease.

For high-load applications, TRC 880 Crown & Chassis Grease is number 1. (IMO, OC!)

I've never had white lithium stand up to long duration applications though, which is why I suggested the heavier grease. The axle grease is heavier and stays put on things like pivot points, especially on ones you can't really reach like this clutch fork. White lithium to me is more for things that need reapplied yearly, like hinges, lock linkage and mechanisms/etc.

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by bnoon

I've never had white lithium stand up to long duration applications though, which is why I suggested the heavier grease. The axle grease is heavier and stays put on things like pivot points, especially on ones you can't really reach like this clutch fork. White lithium to me is more for things that need reapplied yearly, like hinges, lock linkage and mechanisms/etc.

That's where I think it makes a difference whether you use white lithium grease or Lubriplate white lithium grease.

[Gregski]

It's been a week since I ordered the Lubriplate lithium grease, so where is it you ask? Well apparently it's still on Tour! Last I heard it was opening up for STP (get it, LOL) I kid you not, this thing went New York, New Jersey, Indiana, Nebraska, Utah, and as I write this it landed in California

Seriously though Estimated Arrival Date is March 6th, 2015... another week!

[rich weyand]

Yikes. That's ... unusual.

[Gregski]

on the way home picked up the special ordered clutch fork (who would think you had to special order anything for a Small Block Chevy, a pick up for that matter, SBC 350's are as popular as apple pie...

anyway, I was pleased to see that they actually painted this thing BLACK, cool, I won't have to do it

[Gregski]

comparing the new clutch fork to the original, I noticed I would have to remove the spring bracket from the old and mount it to the new one, two minutes later... DONE

then popped the throwout bearing in the fork and snapped fork inside the bell housing

I like clean parts, they are so much nicer to work with

[Gregski]

figured it might be easier to service at least half the speedo cable while the transmissions is out of the car, so disconnected it from the other half that runs to the actual speedometer, cleaned it and yanked out the innards and lubbed the inside nice and good

[Gregski]

your mission should you choose to accept it...

(oh come on how hard could it be, jk)

[Gregski]

bolted the bell housing back on

Anybody know what the torque specs are supposed to be on these six bolts, I could not find it in the manual, so I snugged them not to crazy as this is holding and alumininininium piece

[68post]

I wish you were my neighbor..

[Gregski]

so bolted the cross member mounting bracket (with the rubber piece) to the transmission, I think the torque specs were 50 ft lbs

[Gregski]

then it was time to set up the OMWC stand, that's OMWC as in the One Man Wrecking Crew

what ensued is the stuff of legends

[Gregski]

many, Many, MANY hours later !!! LOL

[Gregski]

with a folded up towel on the floor jack I raised the rear of the newly mounted transmission just enuff to mount the cross member to the transmission mounting bracket (two bolts)

[Gregski]

with the floor jack still holding the transmission up I quickly attached the cross member to the frame rails with four bolts on each side, I figured better do these now before I add the two support brackets which only will get in the way

[68post]

Glad to see that I'm not the only one to figgur out how to do it myselff.. good j.o.b. Gregski.. Way to truck !

[Gregski]

yeah that's what I'm talking about, 75 nuts and bolts on either side, geez