How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

I'm probably near a 4.5/6 or a 5/7, with 3" spindles and trimmed 1" coils up front and bags/2" blocks out back. The new Bilsteins are stock length replacements, which is exactly what I'm running with my current 'blue' Monroe-Matics. The trick is in how you attain the drop and what supporting components are used to determine if they will work.

In the front, the stock replacement 33033 Monroes are good until aired-out, in my experience, while using the stock lower control arms and stock style frame mounted studs. This is also the exact same shock that ART ships with their basic bag kits. The Bilsteins should have similar extended/compressed dimensions, but I will need to measure to verify and set mounts and/or bumpstops to accomodate.

Out back, stock replacement 32301 'blue' Monroes again, with the aforementioned 2" blocks, which effectively give you 2" more shock travel plus ECE shock relocators. I have aired-out completely into the CPP bolt-in notches to the bumpstops without bottoming the shocks out. The Bilsteins are a few tenths shorter by my guesstimates- again, I need to verify compressed/extended lengths.

All of this to say: They might work for you, depending on your setup. I will post more information on what I have to do to make them work as I get to that point.

.....Just remembered--you're running the Hotchkis springs, right? These are the exact part# they ship with the TVS, but with their relocation brackets.....


You've got a pretty good grasp of the concept, but I'm definitely not going 'cheap' this time. Definitely could be spending a LOT more money, though. As always, looking for the best way to do things on a budget--makes it more fun than just throwing money at it I'll try to do a better job of documenting what I'm using as I go...

I don't remember my p/n's off hand, but the C10 front replacement Bilsteins are slightly longer than the Monroes. Why the swap to 6" drop rear springs vs leaving the current bags in place?

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I don't remember my p/n's off hand, but the C10 front replacement Bilsteins are slightly longer than the Monroes. Why the swap to 6" drop rear springs vs leaving the current bags in place?

Honestly, as far as the 'bags go, I just don't want to deal with them anymore. I was going to swap out the 7" Dominators for some 6", or maybe even 5.5" Slams, but I'm thinking I just wanna Ron Popeil this one: "Set it and Forget it". I do like the adjust-ability for getting the rake 'just so' and being able to compensate for loads. I'm always open to suggestions


I had planned on doing this sometime soon, but all the talk of shock lengths got me curious, so I broke out the tape measure. Here's what I found:

-----------------(F)--Bilstein 24-192941--------Monroe 33033
Extended----------------15 1/2-------------------14 5/8
Compressed-------------10 3/8--------------------10 1/8
Travel-------------------5 1/8---------------------4 1/2

-----------------(R)--Bilstein 24-002486--------Monroe 32301
Extended----------------18 7/16-------------------18 1/4
Compressed--------------12 3/16-------------------11 7/8
Travel--------------------6 1/4---------------------6 3/8


Of note: the Bilstein measurements are mine, the Monroe measurements are taken from their online catalog.

The measurements I'm most concerned with here are the compressed lengths, due to my lowered suspension, and therefore shorter distance between shock mounts. The Bilstein fronts are 1/4" longer and the rears are 5/16" longer, compared to their Monroe counterparts. Not a dramatic difference, but enough to warrant double-checking that I won't bottom them out when I whack a pothole or speedbump. The relatively small difference shouldn't get them out of their mid-stroke 'sweet spot', but again, I'll have to verify. Hope this helps

[gringoloco]

Stabbed the steering box this evening. Before it went in, I contemplated painting it to tone down the red, but figured it wouldn't really show once installed. Boy, was I wrong That picture reminds me that I need to re-do those brake lines when the new master goes in.

Second pic shows the reason I had to pull the PS pump--swapped in the inverted flare style pressure fitting I grabbed at the pick-a-part. The 'old' steering box was o-ring style, so instead of splicing, I just bought a new hose...

[gringoloco]

No real progress today other than re-installing the PS pump/pulley and sneaking away from work at lunch to snag a low pressure side steering box line from the JY- tried bending one myself, then decided original GM would be better than my mangled mess I did receive shipping notice today from Porterbuilt for a 64lb box set to arrive on Sep 4th! PB parts in the house pics will follow Almost have all parts gathered for the 'transformation'...
Posted via Mobile Device

[raull]

'transformation'. What I miss ?
Posted via Mobile Device

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by raull

'transformation'. What I miss ?
Posted via Mobile Device

Haha- nothing big- just 4-wheel discs and complete suspension revamp. I just hope that with this latest round of mods that the truck behaves a LOT differently in the handling/braking department. It will ultimately end up looking pretty much like it does now, but hopefully a whole bunch more fun and confidence inspiring to drive. So, 'transformed' into something that drives better than an old truck
Posted via Mobile Device

[67cheby]

Sweet !
Posted via Mobile Device

[superduty_59]

Love the build. You will love the 6.0L. I drive everyday in my 2012 3500 Express with a 6.0L. I will fill up on E-85 whenever I can find it. With E-85 it has faster throttle response and more power but less mpg.

[aggie91]

Nice build, doing the same stuff I'll be doing to my '65 once I finish my son's '82. I hope to go up to GG's lonestar in October, maybe I can get to meet you.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

Sweet !
Posted via Mobile Device

Thanks! Parts rolling in daily...

Originally Posted by superduty_59

Love the build. You will love the 6.0L. I drive everyday in my 2012 3500 Express with a 6.0L. I will fill up on E-85 whenever I can find it. With E-85 it has faster throttle response and more power but less mpg.

That's what I'm talkin about! Looking forward to it

Originally Posted by aggie91

Nice build, doing the same stuff I'll be doing to my '65 once I finish my son's '82. I hope to go up to GG's lonestar in October, maybe I can get to meet you.

Don't think we'll make fall unfortunately, but spring is a good possibility
Posted via Mobile Device

[gringoloco]

New, more traditional 'blank' rotors came in today. Getting down to the nitty-gritty...


Posted via Mobile Device

[Portmod7]

Ahhhh, new parts.... Lol! Its a sickness!

[gringoloco]

Haha! Yes, it is ...and more to come...

[gringoloco]

Drove the truck some today with the RedHead steering gear installed. MUCH better feel than before. Smooooth and quiet, too, especially compared to the 'old' (parts store rebuilt) box. It's easier to steer, but in a controlled manner, not the single-finger Cadillac steering, but not too heavy either. Somewhere this side of 'just right'. It also cleared up the off-center feel and turn signal cancellation problems I was having with the old box that I can only guess was due to using the incorrect pitman arm. Overall, very happy with the upgrade

Side note: lowered trucks need swaybars. I pulled and sold my 3/4 ton bar in anticipation of installing the new PB unit. Spirited driving without a front swaybar is a big no-no. Borderline scary...
Posted via Mobile Device

[gringoloco]

...tracking the PB parts. They're in town, but not scheduled to deliver til Tuesday...
Posted via Mobile Device

[darkhorse970]

Im glad to hear that the Redhead steering gear is an improvement, I'm going to order one for my '63.

The handling woes that you are having do make me wonder what's going on. Is that with bags in the rear still? What springs or bags in the front? Ive gone with ECE 4/6 on my '68 and I'm sure that it will see some "spirited" driving. Do you attribute the handling issues to the bags? I know that the sway bar helps tremendously, but what else do you think was going on?
Posted via Mobile Device

[gringoloco]

The issues I was having yesterday were excessive body roll (or sway) and just a general sloppy, uneasy feeling overall. I attribute this directly to the lack of anti-sway bar. The rear 'bags are isolated from one another, so they should perform similarly to coils. I may head out today and install the PB unit, since it includes brackets to mount to stock arms as well. I will report back the change in driving character if I do...
Posted via Mobile Device

[brn agn]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

The issues I was having yesterday were excessive body roll (or sway) and just a general sloppy, uneasy feeling overall. I attribute this directly to the lack of anti-sway bar.
Posted via Mobile Device

I have the same problem on my 4/6 static drop truck. I have a sway bar sitting in the corner of the garage. I just need to order bushings and slap it on.

[darkhorse970]

I've run an ECE 4/6 drop on my '63 w/o a sway bar for about 10 years now...I'm looking forward to the improvement after I bolt one on. It has never handled bad on the street or highway, but will certainly feel "sportier" with the sway bar.
Posted via Mobile Device

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by brn agn

I have the same problem on my 4/6 static drop truck. I have a sway bar sitting in the corner of the garage. I just need to order bushings and slap it on.

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

I've run an ECE 4/6 drop on my '63 w/o a sway bar for about 10 years now...I'm looking forward to the improvement after I bolt one on. It has never handled bad on the street or highway, but will certainly feel "sportier" with the sway bar.
Posted via Mobile Device

Wholly crap, dudes! Bolt 'em on. The difference is nothing short of dramatic. I've heard it time and again here on the forums, but having experienced it first-hand today, I'll tell anyone who will listen: bolt on a front anti-sway bar- it will change your truck drastically for the better!

Can't have an update without pics, so update coming soon
Posted via Mobile Device

[gringoloco]

Today was Operation: Install Sway Bar. This is the Porterbuilt piece, specially made by and drop shipped from Addco. For a bolt-in piece, it fought me the whole way. This is probably mainly due to temporarily using it with my factory control arms and steering linkage instead of the R&P/tube arms of a Dropmember.

Due to the completely lackluster instructions included, I had to look up other's installs online. Seems there has been a change in the parts supplied with the kit. The main issue I had with it was the length of the end links. I just could not find a way to make the 10" long supplied links work without hitting something or being in a bind, so I went down to Lowe's and picked up a couple of grade 8, 5" long, 3/8 bolts and deleted the spacers from the equation. Problem solved. Nate or Dave may chime in and tell me I'm dumb, I just couldn't figure it out

Also, I had a little heartache with the way the frame bushings fit before I torqued them down--the flat backing plate of the bushing bushing ended up right where the frame horns curve. Once I tightened them up, the bushings and frame contoured to one-another, but it seemed to compress the bushings too much. Everything still works well, it just didn't seem as well thought out as it should be. I do like that they are tucked up out of harms way when mounted without frame brackets, though.

Lastly, the kit was shipped with only grade 5 hardware and no washers. Personal preference, I upgraded to grade 8 with flat washers and nylock nuts. The finish on the bar itself looks nice, but is already beginning to chip and flake...

[lolife99]

Are you going to have to move the bar again when you install your new a-arms?

Just wondering if the bolt-on brackets you installed on your stock a-arms,... will be in the same place as the tabs on the PB arms?

[gringoloco]

As you probably noticed in the other pics (and pointed out by LoLife), the bar came with these handy little 'L' brackets, that due to lack of appropriate instructions, I assumed were there to adapt the bar to my stock arms, so that's what I used 'em for Just centered it up, measured and drilled a hole for mounting.

The last two pics are everything loosely mounted before dropping the truck down for final torquing.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Are you going to have to move the bar again when you install your new a-arms?

Just wondering if the bolt-on brackets you installed on your stock a-arms,... will be in the same place as the tabs on the PB arms?

I located the frame bushings in the same place as the instructions on PB's site and what I've seen in others' posts, so hopefully not I think, due to the design of the tube arm's lower mount, that I may need to use a 1" spacer and longer bolt. Luckily, the longer ones not used up front appear that they will be perfect for mounting my Camaro bar out back...

[lolife99]

The "L" brackets are used exactly the way you installed them.
I bet it drives alot nicer now.