Project: Recycle

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Wow what a great Idea! Where did you come up with the black U-shaped bracket? Think this would work? - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spherical-F...Cclp%3A2334524

Yes, the 'black' u-shaped bracket w/the red bushings in my pic is a Spohn Perf set-up. The other one is for a Toyota 4x4 from Tera Flex Suspension. The Spohn part is spec for F or G-body GM cars & is a direct bolt-in. It also fits where standard bushing-style end-links are intended like the aftermarket C10 bars/arms.

[TA_C10]

Awesome. I notice the arms have a bit of a down angle to the stabilizer bar. How important is that to be level? Mine has a bit of an angle in rear and have been wondering about that.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Awesome. I notice the arms have a bit of a down angle to the stabilizer bar. How important is that to be level? Mine has a bit of an angle in rear and have been wondering about that.

I think it's more camera angle than anything. I recall the arms are fairly level @ this set-up height (ride height give or take a smidge) when you look @ them while laying on the floor. If I need, I can always move the bar up inside the frame vs under but I feel ok for now.

I feel the important thing is keeping the link/s as plumb & aligned as possible. If it's in a slight bind sitting still, does it get worse when compressed/extended? I know it did w/my dually & killed the poly bushings in short order. It now has Ridetech's Posi-Links which seem to be holding up.

[aggie91]

Nice work Scoti!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Nice work Scoti!

Thank you sir!

[The Rocknrod]

If that U-shaped bracket was mounted horizontally instead of vertical, ie. like the side of the a-Arm. Would it hold?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

If that U-shaped bracket was mounted horizontally instead of vertical, ie. like the side of the a-Arm. Would it hold?

It's a 5/8" bolt so whatever the yield strength is for that from a sheer perspective. I would imagine it would be fine since it's just a sway-bar link (if there was a failure it would not be catastrophic in operational nature). The hardware that retains/locates the heim is 3/8".

[SCOTI]

There were a couple of different head-scratching moments but the column length reduction has begun.....

[aggie91]

I've got an OE '66 automatic column that I plan to shorten for my '65. Wish I had tilt too, but this will work for now. Let me know if you learn any pointers or don't do this type info that will help with the process...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I've got an OE '66 automatic column that I plan to shorten for my '65. Wish I had tilt too, but this will work for now. Let me know if you learn any pointers or don't do this type info that will help with the process...

I'll post up the info as I trudge along. I had to get a fresh battery for my caliper today as it kept dying last night when I was documenting dimensions which halted things. I plan to cut things down tonight so I wanted all my data recorded for reference needs.

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I'll post up the info as I trudge along. I had to get a fresh battery for my caliper today as it kept dying last night when I was documenting dimensions which halted things. I plan to cut things down tonight so I wanted all my data recorded for reference needs.

That is why I keep a dial caliper around, if the battery dies on my digital, I can keep on going...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

That is why I keep a dial caliper around, if the battery dies on my digital, I can keep on going...

I had one @ one point but kept it @ work. Apparently someone borrowed it one day & I'm waiting for its return

[SCOTI]

I'll just leave these while I'm here....

[88Stanger]

Love watching your build. It is like a machinist class online at times, then an engineering class, and ..... You are one amazing builder. There are a couple of you on the site that are awesome to learn from. Thank you!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Love watching your build. It is like a machinist class online at times, then an engineering class, and ..... You are one amazing builder. There are a couple of you on the site that are awesome to learn from. Thank you!

I'm no different than guys like you. I try to be precise as we all should (you know, a job worth doing is worth doing well). It's mostly just passing along info that hopefully helps someone in the future. Some of it is regarding my thought process when working on something & some of it is how I went about the actual work.

Thank you for your contributions as well.

[SCOTI]

Played around until the wee hours. Connected but I don't think the angles will play nice. Prob going to need to trim @ least another 1-2" off to get a better angle @ the top u-joint.

[The Rocknrod]

One option might be to get a High Angle U-Joint such as this: http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=425

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

One option might be to get a High Angle U-Joint such as this: http://www.borgeson.com/xcart/product.php?productid=425

Yes.... One of those was my first thought. But, as I understand that would require a mid-mount/shaft bearing which would start cramping & complicating things.

I used one of the steel joints I've had on a shelf & drilled the splines out to get it to that point in that last image. I'm going to try & determine the angles & will go from there. Borgeson states up to 35° working angles but my understanding is they need to be under 30° for a normal life.

[Hammered 77]

Watching closely as I always learn something from your build. Looking at the pictures, is there 2" there to remove without getting into the shift linkage and/or the firewall mount?

Rick

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hammered 77

Watching closely as I always learn something from your build. Looking at the pictures, is there 2" there to remove without getting into the shift linkage and/or the firewall mount?

Rick

Yes & no. I gave myself room to trim (easier to remove more vs add some back on). I made the initial cuts, did a quick temp assembly, & mounted it in place loosely. In order to put things where I could make the connections, it was easy enough to push the column slightly into the cab & pull it back out.

I have probably ~1" material that could be cut from both sides of the firewall w/o issue. The engine compartment side would possibly also require slimming the firewall bracket slightly as well.

Trimming that much total would put the column 'cone' less than a fingertips width gap from the dash & likely shorten the engine compartment side to the point of the shifter arm opening being immediately after the firewall bracket.

I put a plastic angle template against it last night. It's more than 30° so the column will need to be shorter (which should decrease the angle @ the shaft/joint) or option 'B' (having to add the 3rd joint/adding complexity).

My dilemma is, the shorter the column end = the better the angle @ the joint. But, moving the shaft over for the better angle is going to start getting closer than I want to the collector flange of the already built exhaust. I built the exhaust after confirming a PBDM/SBC was done w/the 2-joint combo on my buddys truck/s w/o issue. It was tight, but it cleared. I've been in contact w/him for more info. He used different u-joints (UniSteer vs. Borgeson) & his trucks were 68's so slightly different & he didn't shorten his 67-72 tilt columns (he said he didn't need to):

[SCOTI]

Another long day/night....

I pulled the column, disassembled, cut the tack welds apart, & then chopped another inch off.
Re-tacked the outer housing back together & same to the shift tube.
Assembled/aligned the two tubes & slid the steering shaft in place.

I bolted the assembly back into the truck. This is now as short as it can get w/o getting creative @ the lower/firewall mount. I have ideas for that but not until I could get past verifying the angle @ the joints.

The column can't get closer to the dash; it's maxxed out w/o making contact.
The open slot for the shift tube rotation is right @ the edge of the firewall mounting bracket. I'll need a steering shaft @ least 1" longer but it appears the additional cut was a positive adjustment.

[cwcarpenter98]

I don't believe there was any sort of seal between the column and the dash on the 60-66 trucks. There's not one on my 63, and it doesn't seem like there ever was one

[TA_C10]

Shoot, yeah I forgot your year of truck. My bad.

.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

I don't believe there was any sort of seal between the column and the dash on the 60-66 trucks. There's not one on my 63, and it doesn't seem like there ever was one

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Shoot, yeah I forgot your year of truck. My bad.

.

Not going to lie.... I assumed they didn't have anything since mine didn't. BUT, I never actually researched what the automatics might have came with. I wasn't going to use anything but after wrestling the column in/out probably a dozen times by myself I managed to scratch/scuff the u-shaped opening when it slid down too far against the dash while adjusting things on the engine compartment side. So, I have to touch-up the paint or hide the damage. Sometimes hiding damage in plain site is easier (It's not what you know; it's what you see....).

[Inverter]

Your out of your analytical mind, mate ! Clean work, no surprise. Im still way ahead of you, bess step up those hours.