TA_C10: Stage 1

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

Very cool stuff guys. I appreciate you working on this.

You were half my motivation on this man! If this part works out man this mod is gonna be so cool

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[siggyfreud]

Like this?

[1971Stepside]

If you get it figured out I will order the mirror from the link you shared. I'm excited about this as an option on the truck. Are you running the wire back to the dome light and then down?

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

If you get it figured out I will order the mirror from the link you shared. I'm excited about this as an option on the truck. Are you running the wire back to the dome light and then down?

Actually I wanted to run the wire into the roof panel behind mirror plate or something similar, then fish it across the visor area of windshield and down the A-Pillar into the kick panels. I have an access panel in the kick panels I cut out for the door jam wiring. But the dome light could work too.

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[Kronald_70GMC]

I could be completely wrong here but I dont think there is an opening from the inner roof into the A pillar unless you cut off the outer roof skin to make a hole. Again that is not 100% just something to consider.

[TA_C10]

You know what, your right Kronald... As soon as I read that I realized the A pillar is most likely a separate piece of metal butted up to the roof skin flange. Like two flanges butted against each other and spot welded.... And thinking about it even more now, why go to the dome light? Dome light wiring goes over to the cab corner and down so I will probably go straight to that point. Run the wiring in the sill plates under carpet. I wonder if the wire will jump around in the roof skin and make noise?

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[1971Stepside]

I didn't think you could run into the A-pillar. I think fishing from the dome light will be the easiest way, but you could go to the back corner if you have a long enough fish tape. How long is the cord that comes with the mirror?

I wouldn't think the wire would make any noise if it is pulled relatively snug.

[Kronald_70GMC]

I would imagine it shouldn't make too much noise either way as there is a sheet of some sort of peel and stick on the inner roof skin from factory. At least in the cabs I have seen with the roof off anyway. Very cool mod you guys are working on here by the way.

[siggyfreud]

Just trying to fix an issue with one of my print heads, then will print up a prototype. Since it's a complex shape I have to print support material from one head (that should disolve) and then print the nylon/carbon from the other.

This is what it looks like in layers and how it will print:

[TA_C10]

is the angle still at 140 degrees? It looks more like 90 now at the bend in middle.

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[siggyfreud]

Can you be more specific about the angle. The mounting tab as it approaches the flat horizontal plane is just over 146*. I made the stem bend a bit more to allow a bit more room for the wiring to exit, but if that's not a concern I can make it a straight shot from the ball portion.

[TA_C10]

Yeah, if you look back at my dimensions I meant just the stem.

.4 stem length
.2 stem circumference radius
so just the stem circumference will have the 140 degree bend

Does that make sense? I may not be saying clearly...

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[siggyfreud]

Maybe . . .

So this is .4" length with a .2" diameter (I assumed diameter since it didn't look as wide as it was long), and the stem is at 140* (well technically 40* based on the orientation I'm designing in).

[TA_C10]

Here is what it should look like. See the bend in the stem? forget the square bracket portion of it(the one with hole and squarish clip), only the stem should bend.

[siggyfreud]

I see what you're saying. I'm just trying to accomodate for the wiring hole, which makes the stem need to be offset as that wasn't a factor in the design. So what I think matters is the angle and distance of the mounting pad, relative to the ball. The only thing that dictates positioning is the respective mounting locations of the ball, and the hole for the mirror mount. We could snake the stem in any direction we want, but so long as those two points in space are right the angle of the mirror will be the same. So I just thought making it more conducive to wiring routing would be better.

Maybe this will help make sense of what I'm thinking.

[siggyfreud]

If I go just visually on your last image, because I think we're both two ships in the night on measurements at the moment haha, this is what I get to.

[TA_C10]

LOL. I think that looks like it will work right there.

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[1971Stepside]

I can take the ball out of my original mirror and send it to you if it will help. Let me know.

[siggyfreud]

We'll see how close we get 1971Stepside and if needed I'll defintely take you up on that .

Here is the first print pass.

This is also in the Nylon-Carbon. Printed at 50% infill, meaning it's half hallow, half solid. Because of the shape and difficulty in building supports around it some of it's a bit rougher than I wanted, but minor sanding and you'd have a nice looking piece.

It's very strong. You could likely snap it by hand at the correct angle, but it's surpringly stout. If we needed it stronger I could up the infill even more.

[1971Stepside]

Very cool man. I’m impressed for sure

[siggyfreud]

Hard to be 100% precise with certain plastics, as they expand and shrink differently, but so far everything is within a tenth of an inch to the measurements taken, if not significantly less. If either of you think it's worth a shot PM me your address and I'll send you one to test out.

[TA_C10]

Wow, that was fast man. It looks great! I will PM you. So you think it's strong enough for the abuse these mirrors see?

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by TA_C10

Wow, that was fast man. It looks great! I will PM you. So you think it's strong enough for the abuse these mirrors see?

Biggest benefit of 3d printing . Idea to part in a day.

As far as strength, I think so. Let's test at 50% and we can always go up if needed. I think I could break it at the thinnest part with my hands, but it would def take some effort. Nice thing about nylon is it's made to flex and return, so the vibrations and bumps should be fine for it. I'll get it out your way and you can make a judgement call on trying it out.

[TA_C10]

Originally Posted by siggyfreud

Biggest benefit of 3d printing . Idea to part in a day.

As far as strength, I think so. Let's test at 50% and we can always go up if needed. I think I could break it at the thinnest part with my hands, but it would def take some effort. Nice thing about nylon is it's made to flex and return, so the vibrations and bumps should be fine for it. I'll get it out your way and you can make a judgement call on trying it out.

Sounds good, PM sent.

[TA_C10]

Update - It's official, bodywork has started.

This is the ugliest piece I have. The inner fender I modified 3 different times that ended up going back to stock(for the most part). I should have spent more time with hammer and dolly but i'm going to be honest with yall, I don't care right now.... The rest of the truck is in great shape, not much body filler will be needed so I expect everything to go pretty fast.




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