How about some pics of Static Dropped C-10's

[arkracing]

Thanks for the responses guys. If Bagging it doesn't really achive better results unless you use AM front xmember etc, then Im perfectly fine with static.
I understand that the lower you go the more you comprise in ride quality, but I'm still slighlty confused I guess. I see alot of guys running 5/7 and seem to be ok, but who knows for sure. I had a 69 shorty step about 15 years ago with just a ece 2/4. It handled good, just still looked high lol.

Problem fo me is, the look that I like is this pickup.
I messaged the owner...6/8 static and claims it rides good. I guess ride quality is all relative to whos driving.

[SCOTI]

The statement "it rides good" is very subjective.

[66clow]

Originally Posted by arkracing

Thanks for the responses guys. If Bagging it doesn't really achive better results unless you use AM front xmember etc, then Im perfectly fine with static.
I understand that the lower you go the more you comprise in ride quality, but I'm still slighlty confused I guess. I see alot of guys running 5/7 and seem to be ok, but who knows for sure. I had a 69 shorty step about 15 years ago with just a ece 2/4. It handled good, just still looked high lol.

Problem fo me is, the look that I like is this pickup.
I messaged the owner...6/8 static and claims it rides good. I guess ride quality is all relative to whos driving.

Probably rides good until your on a rough road or need to avoid some dips or pot holes. 😁 But it's a matter of what you are willing to deal with.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 66clow

Probably rides good until your on a rough road or need to avoid some dips or pot holes. �� But it's a matter of what you are willing to deal with.

This.

I bet most people use this statement because on a nice smooth road surface a truck that's <3" off the ground will do just fine. But as soon as the irregularities start, that 'rides good' statement goes out the window. Some will say "it's all part of it" (it being the experience of owning/driving a lowered classic truck).

I've driven my 'classics' daily. I've only had 2 or 3 vehicles along my journey that weren't hot-rodded or lowered but they were temporary rides. After tolerating the constant collisions caused between a lowered truck & common road surfaces I started building w/the mandatory clearance requirements (4" min ground clearance; 3" compression travel/clearance). That made a big difference in the driving experience.

[blazer2007]

I have one static and one bagged. The static one can be embarrassing in the spring when road construction starts and I can,t make it over a deep cut out on the asphalt ,out comes the 2x4,s.It,s not too low, spindles and 1 cut coil but still run into the odd road. Air bag one, just push a button

[arkracing]

Again thanks guys. Basically what you are all saying is "buy the ride tech streetgrip setup" sacrifice a little bit of "the look" lol

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by arkracing

Again thanks guys. Basically what you are all saying is "buy the ride tech streetgrip setup" sacrifice a little bit of "the look" lol

You're going to get opinions all over the map on this. If you like putting miles on your 'hot rod' every chance you get, then whatever method you choose make sure its engineered for & offers adequate clearance to work.

Ridetech is a reputable source but it will come down to your set-up parameters if/where things are adjustable (settings things to their spec or setting things to "OMG that looks BA" can yield two distinctly different ride/driving quality experiences). The 'Street Grip' line of kits definitely seems a good choice.

Me personally? Their Street Grip would not be low enough because they build the set-up around the limitations of the lowest point on a C10.... the front x-member & a-arm pivots. In order to have good ride characteristics, that point needs to be ~5" off the ground which puts you @ about a 4/6 - 5/7 drop when cruising. Moving those pivot points higher up on the chassis/rails gets you lower w/the same amount of clearance. Of course, old school dropping the body over the chassis can yield a similar result.

[xabichin67]

[QUOTE=SCOTI;8750093]When you get past 4/6 static drops using OE geometry/pick-up points, the driving experience diminishes quickly.

I drive my stuff low (5/7 or more). With no mods, it does suck on crappy roads. Static or air doesn't make a difference if you're bottoming out. To make it better, I use a modified factory or aftermarket raised front x-member. It allows for the more aggressive drop I like while provide additional ground clearance. The additional ground clearance is only part of it though. Once you have the aggressive drop w/a modified or raised x-member, you now will most likely need some raised fender wells so the tires don't constantly buzz.


SCOTI, What are you doing for steering on the raised factory X-Member

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by xabichin67

SCOTI, What are you doing for steering on the raised factory X-Member

The box, pitman, & idler all remained in the stock positions. I've done the multiple combo u-joints/shaft on one & standard shafts on others w/the upper 63-72 drivers side a-arm c-notched for clearance. My dually has a standard straight shaft w/the a-arm notched.

[xabichin67]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The box, pitman, & idler all remained in the stock positions. I've done the multiple combo u-joints/shaft on one & standard shafts on others w/the upper 63-72 drivers side a-arm c-notched for clearance. My dually has a standard straight shaft w/the a-arm notched.

I've got one that is sectioned 2" but set it aside because I thought I would have to raise the steering box and mess with the idler arm.

Do you think I'd be okay with the 2" section and leaving the steering components in the stock location.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by xabichin67

I've got one that is sectioned 2" but set it aside because I thought I would have to raise the steering box and mess with the idler arm.

Do you think I'd be okay with the 2" section and leaving the steering components in the stock location.

I know others have done the 2" amount. I've felt that a 1.5" sectioning is pushing things & never ventured beyond. If doing 2", I would personally switch to an aftermarket R&P or raise the steering box, idler, & notch the lower frame rail as needed for tie-rod clearance. This is what I would do if I had the tools for the job & was watching the budget:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=799484

[LS short box]

Mine with a 4/6 drop. Ride is firm but very easy to live with as a summer cruiser. Nice part is speed bumps are no issue.

[Hart_Rod]

4.5/6, 15's with some sidewall make the ride pretty nice...

[FarmTruckFred]

3/5 drop.

[Syclone3Mt]

My 72' 2.5" / 4" drop. Not much of a drop but drives really nice.

[v8truckin]

Originally Posted by LS short box

Mine with a 4/6 drop. Ride is firm but very easy to live with as a summer cruiser. Nice part is speed bumps are no issue.

What’s your hub center to fender height? Trying to figure out if mine was lowered 3/4 or 4/6. Wanna lower her another 1” to fill the gap a bit with my new 22” on 30series rubber
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[KQQL IT]

My 73

Clipped 2 coils
And welded new axle pads on the bottom of a 3.25 tube 9 inch

No notch.

[70chevc10]

This is long overdue but I finally installed the ECE suspension I've had in the garage for about 4 years Here are some details:

ECE 4.5/6 drop with drum to disc conversion with (2.5" drop spindles and 2" drop springs) Rear has 6" drop springs, shock relocator kit, and super track bar kit. It's frustrating that they are unavailable for support as a number of small parts were missing (banjo bolts, prop valve mounting kit and lines, dust caps, etc.).

Tires are 255/55R18. I have since put different Nitto NT421Q tires on but no pictures yet. Wheels are Eagle Alloy 146s I'm guessing BS is 4.5 or 5.5. While the tires fit with very little clearance, I'd suggest a shorter tire.

Overall it's riding really well but the brakes are dragging so I'll need to figure that one out.

[LUV2XCLR8]

Forgot to add my old Farmer Truck here. ("Betty")

6" F ~ 3" Belltech Spindles, 1.5 rounds cut off stock coils

9" R ~ Is a TinWorks Rear Axle Flip / C-Notch Combo Kit

[v8truckin]

5.5” front & 7” rear

[bob arrington]

Originally Posted by fastcam1

Anyone have pics of a static drop around 5/7 with 20's?
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not pretty...yet...lol

[cornfed]

Maybe got a little carried away but I dig how it turned out. Cheap and low. Jaguar ifs up front, explorer 8.8 and suspension out back. 20x9.5 and 20x11.5. Rides great because both suspensions are totally stock.

[MySons68C20]

Hey cornfed, I like the interesting route you went with the suspension.
Do you have a build thread or? I can't view the pics in the link.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by cornfed

Maybe got a little carried away but I dig how it turned out. Cheap and low. Jaguar ifs up front, explorer 8.8 and suspension out back. 20x9.5 and 20x11.5. Rides great because both suspensions are totally stock.

Nice, and agree: need more pics!

[Ben IV]

4.5/6+. Spindles and springs up front flipped axle in the back.