Project 68 k10 LWB..aka "The Hulk"

[First c10]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

Is your ECM programed for the AC? And I'm curious as to why are you planning to use a binary switch and not trinary? My PCM is set up to control the fans, but I'm also using a trinary switch.

I already wired my fans to come on when the ac was turned on. It works both ways right now with the pcm and the call for ac. The binary switch is only to shut off the compressor under low pressure.
How do you have your trinary switch wired?

[First c10]

Oh and I haven’t had a chance to do the programming on the pcm yet. But I do have what the stock setting are set at. I have not actually used the stock refrigerant sensor before so not sure how it is going to work.

[derotoreut]

Keep me posted on how it works for you. I haven't wired in my Vortec project it yet, but I have in the past on SB engines. The trinary gives you the low and high pressure cutout.

[First c10]

From what I know about these switch’s is A binary switch is normally closed and opens when there is too much or too little pressure in the system to shut the compressor off to prevent damage. A trinary switch contains a binary switch AND a normally open switch that can be used to turn electric radiator fans on when the pressure determines that more air flow is needed through the condensor.
When wiring the truck or more specifically wiring the main relays for the cooling fans I added a relay to turn a fan on when the ac compressor is on. This is only because I am not sure how the stock ac sensor is going to work. I hope I can remove it when the stock ac sensor is working. The stock ac sensor should let the ECM know the ac is on and to control the fans due to pressures in the ac system. It should also adjust engine idle.

[First c10]

Well as it turns out Gen IV’s only accept ac request(notify the Ecm your AC is on) only be sent through canbus. A company makes the trigger but it’s 300$ that’s BS as all it does it tell the pcm you turned on the ac compressor I wonder if Dakota digital has a bim module for it. I am going to call them about it.
As for now I think I am going to remove all the stock sensor bs. I will keep the binary switch as it does work as I tested it out today. Low and high pressure. System is wiring great. Nice and cold.

[First c10]

I decided to put the head lights I bought from a forum member in. I just leveled and the kept the buckets straight to the core support.
They are HID’s and pretty bright. The high and low beam relay setup I made worked great.

[First c10]

Well a while back I installed a catch can. I ordered it off eBay and built a custom mount to hang it under the wilwood master cylinder.
I built it to the same bracket that held the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve.
I did have to notch the plastic cover to clear the can and hoses

[72 tigger]

As usual, nice work!

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

As usual, nice work!

Thank you very much!


Hope to get my painter back this weekend to paint my steering column, ash tray, and glove box so I can button up the dash and possible drive it out of the shop. Currently the truck starts and runs like a new vehicle. HVAC is working, stereo with blue tooth working, wipers working, remote start working, and DD dash and all working. Just need the few things I stated above. He said he could have them painted by the end of the weekend.

I did splurged and bought my shocks.

[DWilbur]

Cool choice on the shocks. I bought similar one for my Dodge and work much better than the one that came with the lift kit. My plan is to use them on my Chevy too.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hey DW this May affect you with this intake Y.
After getting the upper radiator pipe built I added antifreeze and started the truck up and let it run. I found out that the intake tube air supply to the crank case ventalation system is unmetered as it connects before the MAF.
The CEL came on and the code was for lean bank 1 and 2. Like an intake or vacuum leak.
I disconnected the ventilation and plugged it, cleared the code and the code never came back. So I am not sure of it can be tuned that way or if I need to figure out how to connect it after the MAF.

Well I decided to put a 5/16” bulk head fitting downstream of the MAF sensor.
I drilled a hole in my MAF tube. I put an o’ring on it and connected it to the PS valve cover like stock.
Now to tig weld the hole in the aluminum intake tubing.
I will check it out with the scanner tomorrow to make sure the fuel trims look good.

[First c10]

Small things are taking the longest time... or at least it feels like it.

I was able to get color on the steering column, ash tray and glove box door.

I installed the column and had a problem with the neutral safety switch is hitting the brake switch. nothing is easy!!!

Also I got the high hump coated inside and out with raptor liner. Now to install the floor shifter bracket.

Waiting on the new brake switch, and Lokar shift linkage

[7dee2]

Looks like you managed lots of gut room with the column and that's worth the aggravation for sure...

[First c10]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Looks like you managed lots of gut room with the column and that's worth the aggravation for sure...

Thanks Brett,

I built a custom seat frame/mount to lower and move the seat back so hopefully I should have plenty of room. I am waiting on the Lokar shift linkage to come in today and get it installed.

[First c10]

I was able to get the glove box door mounted. I didn't want it to get damaged since it was painted and buffed out.

[rgunlock]

Very cool build! I've read posts from it time to time as I noticed this thread come to the top of the page, but I just read the whole thing over the last few days. You'll be glad to have so much of the "fiddly" work like wiring done so that the remainder of the build should go about as fast as you can get the parts ready and you can make time to do the assembly.

[First c10]

Hey Rick thank you for the post as I think I needed that. I have been spending every extra moment I have on all of the fiddle work you mentioned. I have started to tidy up all the wiring and have the dash about finished. I just have to install the glove box.
I was able to finish up the steering column install, transmission linkage, and steering column intermediate shaft.
Tonight I’m going to install my high and low tone horn’s.

[First c10]

Doing a few little things like adding a light to my glove box.

I had bought a stock glovebox light assembly awhile back but since I am not using a stock cardboard glove box it would not fit the the old air products plastic glove box that came with the AC system I bought.
So I decided to make a connector and install a glovebox light I ordered off eBay

It was like 4 bucks and can be added to any glove box.

I forgot to take a picture before.
Link to light
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F362511152606

[nsulacountry]

Very nice light solution.

My 1979 C20 has a light, my 1975 Ford F-250 doesn't. Think the F word needs a glove box light.

CT

[DWilbur]

I will have the same issue with glove box light using Vintage Air system. I will check it out.

[DWilbur]

At under $5.00 I bought one.

[First c10]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

At under $5.00 I bought one.

Get me your address and I can send you a connector and a couple terminals for it. I happen to have a kit I ordered sometime back that was not what I wanted but it worked great for this light as it didn’t come with a pigtail.

[DWilbur]

I have a bunch of connectors one of them will work. Thanks for the a offer.
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[First c10]

I am having a few issues with the brakes. the pedal feels a little spongy and goes down farther than I would like. after adjusting the brake pedal and bleeding the system I still have the problem. I even put the rear on stands and took the rear wheels off. I put in gear and tried to stop the rears and had to push way harder then I should. so I figure I have air still trapped in the system. Started to get my stuff ready to bleed them and noticed brake fluid leaking from the rear brake calipers. it is leaking from the center of the piston. the brake calipers are new bought 5 years ago. Maybe the seals dryed up from sitting with no fluid.
I am going to get a rebuild kit for them since they are less than 20 bucks for the pair. (79-85 Cadillac rear calipers) but another set back for me to actually drive the truck. well I don't have a steering wheel yet but still!!!


One good thing I received my billet aluminum badges and glove box emblem from Shortie (John) a forum member.
they will look great when installed!!!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=701118&page=8
(I noticed in the picture the red X is a little bubbly I think that is from the window cleaner I didn't wipe off.)

[DWilbur]

The emblems look great. I wish I found them before I bought the ones I did
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