Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 68post

Glad to see that I'm not the only one to figgur out how to do it myselff.. good j.o.b. Gregski.. Way to truck !

Thanks, that was trucking hard!

[Gregski]

yeah that's what I'm talking about, 75 nuts and bolts on either side, geez

[Gregski]

I took my time, since my arms were going numb from lack of blood flow as I was laying on my back with my arms up in the air (like you just don't care... oops) tightening them cross member support brackets

I tightened these to: as hard as you can plus a quarter turn, LOL

[Gregski]

and here's a parting shot for the night, The Greg is pooped!

~ man I wish I could have taken that cross member out so I could paint it ~ deep breath Greg deep breath

[greg64]

Y U NO paint crossmember? Just kidding.

Great work, Greg, getting that transmission back in. Told you it wasn't easy. I did something similar, with the lift from above over the tranny tunnel.

[rich weyand]

Paint and then Dynamat the interior floor before you put everything back together.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Paint and then Dynamat the interior floor before you put everything back together.

Sound advice, but that will have to wait till paint season rolls around, plus I will be taking the bed off this summer, stay tunned

[Gregski]

so what do we feed The Dragon? According to the Owner's and Driver's MANUAL (yes I got one, and yes on occasion I read it) we are supposed to use SAE 80 or SAE 90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant

now you all know that me and Chemistry don't get along, so I went out to my local AutoZone and they didn't have any 90 stuff they only had combo ones so I bought this Vaseline (jk) 80W-90 "High Perfomance" Gear Oil, will that work?

Now I realize I will need more than one quart, I think I originally bought this stuff for the diff, so I will have to git more, unless you say go somewhere else and git the straight up 90 only es aye yee stuff

[BBM3]

According to the Valvoline website you can use that gear lube in manual transmissions and it is API GL5 rated so I would use it.

"All hypoid differentials (conventional and limited slip) and manual transmissions in passenger cars, light trucks, sport utility vehicles, vans and heavy-duty trucks where an API-GL5 or MT-1 fluid is specified."

Great thread.
Your documentation is helping me a lot.

[rich weyand]

80W90 just means it acts like 80 when it's cold and 90 when it's hot. The factory spec of 80 or 90 basically means use 80 in Minnesota and 90 in Miami. Running the 80W90 you can get 90-weight performance in the summer and it will act like 80 in the winter so it isn't so hard to shift when it's cold.

In Sac, I would say to use 90 if you were using straight weight, but 80W90 is better.

[Chaplain]

Thanks Rich.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

Thanks Rich.

Yup, Rich is Da Man ! Thank you

[rusty76]

Every thing looks great.

[Gregski]

prepped and painted the shift stick

[Gregski]

prepped and painted the shifter boot retainer thing, can someone tell me which side is up on this thing, the previous owner had the dish side up, I prefer the smooth side up

cleaned it up using the good 'ol wire wheel, man if I had a sand blasting cabinet I would be dangerous

[Gregski]

here it is painted, pics are a bit crudy (indoors in the garage at night)

gonna order a new rubber boot from LMC Truck tomorrow (pay day!)

[Gregski]

then got going on the rest of the drive train assembly

this bracket which holds up the middle of the two piece drive shaft has a front and a rear (I recon) the front is shorter then is swoops down in the rear (I hope)

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

then got going on the rest of the drive train assembly

this bracket which holds up the middle of the two piece drive shaft has a front and a rear (I recon) the front is shorter then is swoops down in the rear (I hope)

yes the support is angled up going towards the front. or shorter drop in front and longer drop in the rear.

[rich weyand]

The dished side of the screw holes goes up.

[Gregski]

then it was time to replace the universal joints aka the U-joints

things began innocently enough

went to AutoZone and picked up three universal joints, first lesson I learned was that they were not all created equally, I was giver one for the front that was different from the other two a bit larger (apparently the middle and rear ones are the same a bit smaller)

"MUST BE LUBRICATED AFTER INSTALLATION" we'll get to that later

[Gregski]

poor mans' press

[Gregski]

out with the old and in with the new

now tapping the old U-joints out we don't care too much about 'em as they will be tossed

however when gently tapping in the new ones, you really shouldn't do it, I recon you should use a press to press them in

this was the first time I replaced u-joints so I didn't really know what I was in for - I had to take both caps off to get the thing in and then tap the caps back on

Not Fun!

[Gregski]

ok, I remember doing the rear u-joint first then I did the front one, so I don't recall when this happened, if it happened on the first one or the second but both things happened to the same u-joint

so after I had this u-joint in I went to put in the retaining clips and I put one side in but I could not scootch the joint over far enough to put the second one in

so I thought I bet I know what happened, probably one of the needle bearings laid down while I was tapping the cap in, and sure enuff

but after I fixed that side I still couldn't put the second clip in, so low and behold I check the other side, still same u-joint minds you and I had two needles down in this one


moral of the story, don't force the issue, take your time, re trace your steps

I'm just being honest with you, it's not like it's all roses over here at the Busted Knuckles Garage 24/7

[MikeB]

I've changed a few u-joints over the years, but the last ones I did kicked my butt. I ended up taking the driveshaft to Driveshaft King in Dallas. After laughing at what they called my "cheap parts store u-joints", they replaced them with "made in the USA" models. They also straightened and balanced the shaft. (Pretty cool to watch.) The total cost? $100! Best money I ever spent. As an unexpected benefit, the balance job got rid of a couple interior buzzes, and reduced a floor shifter buzz.

On another note, I think we're due for some progress pics of your truck -- a few shots of the outside, inside, and engine compartment.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I've changed a few u-joints over the years, but the last ones I did kicked my butt. I ended up taking the driveshaft to Driveshaft King in Dallas. After laughing at what they called my "cheap parts store u-joints", they replaced them with "made in the USA" models. They also straightened and balanced the shaft. (Pretty cool to watch.) The total cost? $100! Best money I ever spent. As an unexpected benefit, the balance job got rid of a couple interior buzzes, and reduced a floor shifter buzz.

Mike I totally agree with you, and am adding Driveshafting to my short list of out sourcing. And hey my Federal Mogul rear U-joint was made in the U.S.A. lol

1. Changing / Balancing Tires

2. Windshield / rear window replacement

3. A/C charging/fill up (from empty not just top off) glad Rusty aint got AC

4. _____________________________ reserved for future use

5. Driveshaft universal joint replacement