How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

[gringoloco]

Here's final install after dropping 'er on the ground and final torquing of bolts. Overall, I'm fairly happy with the install..... after making the necessary modifications.... I guess I just figured for a $250 sway bar, that I would not be left guessing at how to properly install the thing, have to upgrade hardware, replace parts, and have the coating flaking off before I even drive it...

Never mind my 'battle scars' on the LCAs--they'll be replaced soon enough

I am VERY happy with the handling after installing the bar. HUGE difference from not having one at all yesterday, though I can't really tell the difference from the GM 1.25 bar I had in there before, but at least this one will work with my PB arms...

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by lolife99

The "L" brackets are used exactly the way you installed them.
I bet it drives alot nicer now.

Man, night and day vs no bar! No 'seat of the pants' diff that I can tell from the 'old' bar, though...

[gringoloco]

One of the things installing this bar did was allow me to isolate the feel of the new steering gear and let me tell you, this thing is GREAT. Kudos to RedHead Steering Gears. My old, LAPS rebuilt box was heavy feeling and made the PS pump whine, moan, and complain constantly. The on-center feel was poor and I could never get the alignment quite right.

With the new box installed, the steering feels lighter than before, but very controlled. It has a good on-center feel, but man, when you tell it to turn, it's going where you point it! The pump is now as quiet as a dead mouse, the tie-rod ends are even on both sides, and MY TURN SIGNALS CANCEL!!! Sorry for 'yelling', but that is COOL to me.

Coupla pics, though you guys have seen steering boxes before. Nice, high quality fit/finish on this piece. I used 73-87 style over the framerail hoses and clamp to keep things tidy. I'm ready to get to the brakes so I can clean up the lines and combo valve ugliness...

[darkhorse970]

Good write up,but I hate that it had the issues.
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[Bennett68C10]

Nice job on the sway bar install, I switched over to grade 8 hardware as well. Wasn't comfortable with the grade 5 that came with it. I did however use a 5" bolt with the spacers to mount the bar to my tubular arms. I also bent the mounts to match the frame where it bends so it wouldn't bind up the bushing.

Glad to hear you like the redhead steering box, I'm definitely going to look into it. Did you say you got the quick ratio box?
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[gringoloco]

Thanks! I may stick with the 5" links, but it looks like a 6" w/ 1" spacer will do the trick with the tube arms, as the mounts are lower. We will see soon (arms deliver tomorrow). Still not sure what they intended the 10" links for, but I'll put 'em to good use out back...

The RedHead gear is NICE. I'm curious to see what it's gonna feel like with all new, tight steering linkage (pitman, idler, tie-rods) and the forward arms. Yes, I went with the 'quick' ratio. It is approx 3.5 turns lock-to-lock vs stock 4.5, but does not limit turning radius. My spindles contact the steering stops on both sides, something it never did with the old, variable ratio box. Yeah, the RedHead is twice the money of an LAPS rebuild, but it's at least twice as nice and $100 less than their nearest competitor...
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[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Thanks! I may stick with the 5" links, but it looks like a 6" w/ 1" spacer will do the trick with the tube arms, as the mounts are lower. We will see soon (arms deliver tomorrow). Still not sure what they intended the 10" links for, but I'll put 'em to good use out back...

The RedHead gear is NICE. I'm curious to see what it's gonna feel like with all new, tight steering linkage (pitman, idler, tie-rods) and the forward arms. Yes, I went with the 'quick' ratio. It is approx 3.5 turns lock-to-lock vs stock 4.5, but does not limit turning radius. My spindles contact the steering stops on both sides, something it never did with the old, variable ratio box. Yeah, the RedHead is twice the money of an LAPS rebuild, but it's at least twice as nice and $100 less than their nearest competitor...
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I'm an idiot I meant that I used 6" long bolts for the end links not 5" and moved up to 3/8" grade 8 hardware. Mine came with 5/16" grade 5 or so and I didn't feel comfortable with that.
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[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

I'm an idiot I meant that I used 6" long bolts for the end links not 5" and moved up to 3/8" grade 8 hardware. Mine came with 5/16" grade 5 or so and I didn't feel comfortable with that.
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Agreed on the bolts- I bumped up to 3/8" grade 8, too. Sounds like my end link plans will work, thanks
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[Portmod7]

Nice! I'm very interested in the Red Head box.... I've got a "new" rebuilt unit now, I may have to upgrade in the not-so-distant future.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

There are so many Awesome trucks on this site, and yours is definitely one of 'em ! You have some fab skills man !

[DURG]

[QUOTE=gringoloco;5572011]
Still not sure what they intended the 10" links for, but I'll put 'em to good use out back...



Looks like the bar is upside down. if you flip it, the 10" links might be right. Normally the bars sweep UPWARD as they go back toward the control arms.....
I need the 10" links for my Porterbuilt Touring coilover dropmember with the ADDCO bar and tubular lowers on my '65. I am still waiting for them as they shipped the short bolts with my setup.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Portmod7

Nice! I'm very interested in the Red Head box.... I've got a "new" rebuilt unit now, I may have to upgrade in the not-so-distant future.

So far, so good. I will definitely keep everyone up-to-date once all of the parts are installed. Leaps and bounds ahead of my 'new' rebuilt unit...

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

There are so many Awesome trucks on this site, and yours is definitely one of 'em ! You have some fab skills man !

Thanks! I'll probably never run with the 'big dogs', I just try to keep it simple and affordable...

Originally Posted by DURG

Looks like the bar is upside down. if you flip it, the 10" links might be right. Normally the bars sweep UPWARD as they go back toward the control arms.....
I need the 10" links for my Porterbuilt Touring coilover dropmember with the ADDCO bar and tubular lowers on my '65. I am still waiting for them as they shipped the short bolts with my setup.

Man, I tried this thing thirty-seven different ways and this is the only configuration that came anywhere even close to fitting. I can see how the 10" links might work with the steering linkage mounted on the bottom of the spindle, but with stock tie-rods, they were occupying the same real-estate no matter what I did. Hopefully it works for your setup--ultimately, it was just a couple of bolts and some swearing to make it fit for mine

[PBFAB.COM]

A little clarification on the sway bar hardware:

The 10" links are for the Touring and Mild Dropmembers.

The shorter links are for the factory x-member application.

Looks like you received the incorrect end link hardware.

[DURG]

I think he got mine!

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by Porterbuilt Street Rods

A little clarification on the sway bar hardware:

The 10" links are for the Touring and Mild Dropmembers.

The shorter links are for the factory x-member application.

Looks like you received the incorrect end link hardware.

I don't feel so dumb anymore--it all makes sense now

Originally Posted by DURG

I think he got mine!

I'd trade ya, but the long ones are slated for the rear sway...

[mahanian]

To maximize the mechanical advantage and minimize binding a sway bar should be mounted parallel to the ground and mounted as far out on the lower control arms as possible. Looks to me like the ADDCO bar nailed both of those. You may not feel the difference on the street but if you were on the track I bet you'd feel a difference between the ADDCO and the factory sway bar.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by mahanian

To maximize the mechanical advantage and minimize binding a sway bar should be mounted parallel to the ground and mounted as far out on the lower control arms as possible. Looks to me like the ADDCO bar nailed both of those. You may not feel the difference on the street but if you were on the track I bet you'd feel a difference between the ADDCO and the factory sway bar.

The end links do not end up as parallel as they appear, due to my 'extreme' drop, but I don't foresee any binding issues. It definitely has a leverage advantage by attaching at the end of the arm; my butt-o-meter is just not highly calibrated enough to tell the difference

[Bennett68C10]

Originally Posted by gringoloco

The end links do not end up as parallel as they appear, due to my 'extreme' drop, but I don't foresee any binding issues. It definitely has a leverage advantage by attaching at the end of the arm; my butt-o-meter is just not highly calibrated enough to tell the difference

butt-o-meter i like that

[gringoloco]

More truck parts in the living room: PB 1" forward lower control arms came in--including some upper arms I didn't order that I'll have to send back In exchange, I will receive the lower cross-shafts, hardware, and shock mounts. The uppers are super nice pieces- I almost wanna just keep them, but they're more of a want than a need and I'm sticking to my 'budget'

Also got my ECE 6" rear drop coils. Man, they are SHORT. I fear I may have to reduce the size of my lowering blocks. In that case, I will definitely have to change my rear shock mounting arrangement...

[gringoloco]

...and a shot with the billet spring retainer/adapter loosely bolted in place. Genius in its simplicity--I just hope the spring doesn't want to rotate without something holding the end of the 'pigtail'...

[68GMCCustom]

had been following this but lost it somehow. following again!

[67c10rustbuket]

Sheew! spent the last few hours reading your build. Very nice work! I see a few ideas I will have to borrow from this build. Great job, love the paint treatment and wheel smoothing. Lots of nice touches without breaking the bank.

[darkhorse970]

More nice parts, I like it!

[Bennett68C10]

Nice parts your going to love the Tubular Arms, i know i do. I also love the fact that you can run Coils on it just with the billet adapter good to know in case I ever decided to go back to coils. Not that I ever see that happening but you never know.

[gringoloco]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

had been following this but lost it somehow. following again!

Welcome back! Just in time for the latest round of upgrades

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Sheew! spent the last few hours reading your build. Very nice work! I see a few ideas I will have to borrow from this build. Great job, love the paint treatment and wheel smoothing. Lots of nice touches without breaking the bank.

Thanks! I would love to spend a ton of cash on it, but I really would like to retire someday

Originally Posted by darkhorse970

More nice parts, I like it!

Thanks- almost have everything gathered- then, the fun begins...

Originally Posted by Bennett--G4L

Nice parts your going to love the Tubular Arms, i know i do. I also love the fact that you can run Coils on it just with the billet adapter good to know in case I ever decided to go back to coils. Not that I ever see that happening but you never know.

I had my mind set on 'bags for this truck, especially after GoodGuys last year when my wife gave me the thumbs-up on the look, but I really want something that drives and handles well. Other than the truck and Blazer, I've only had one other classic (a '67 Mustang 5.0/t5 swap), before that, it was all sports cars and crotch rockets. Family life necessitates different modes of transportation, but I still get the urge to attack an on-ramp with fury All that said, it's nice to have the option for air if I ever wanna spend the money to do it right...
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