Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Dash and heater box look great!

Originally Posted by David67

^^X2
Looks awesome!

Thanks guys. I got the other inner fender wrestled in today. I do mean wrestled. It put up a fight from beginning to end. I won though.


Now I just need to tidy up the wiring and clean it up. See the dust? The hazards of storing in the same garage where I'm stripping paint and sanding on my other project. Just saw signs of a small oil leak from the front of the intake manifold. Not bad, I'll just keep an eye on it for now.

Here's a few glamour shots...

Ignore the snowblower, hazards of living up north.

[VA72C10]

The dust is a real pain, isn't it? I remember when finishing my blazer how annoyed I'd get with the sanding dust....even after putting plastic and taping off the finished engine bay it was covered by the time I un-taped it....and it's not like pollen or normal dust...it sticks to it and smears...fun stuff

Nice looking pair of vehicles

[hgs_notes]

It is a nice pair isn't it? I'm very fortunate, beyond this pair of projects.

I'm thinking swiffer for dusting.

[VA72C10]

swifter will help. I actually used a cheap version of those california car duster wand things on mine in between thorough cleanings and it did fairly well and never scratched the paint or chrome...

[litew8]

In between segments - an air hose w/gun works nice too.

[hgs_notes]

No major update, just details. Replaced the spark plug wires on the driver side so I could route them through the loom properly and around the back like the other side is.




The swiffer worked pretty good picking up the dust where ever I could fit it. Under the hood I have some details to take care of yet. Need to paint the bolt ends and scratches in the black paint, wrap some wires, paint the throttle linkage rod, get a nicer looking air cleaner, etc.

The biggest projects there are building/buying a good fan mount and rewire the headlights and fans with relays. I'm going to upgrade the headlights to the newer style like this or one similar...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-002395301/

Punch list:
Polish other wheels
headlight upgrade
fan/headlight wiring upgrade
adjust e-brake cable
horn
Cowl shims
Washer pump
finish exhaust
install closed loop sensor
upholstory recovered
alignment
air cleaner
touch up paint under hood
replace grill and front bumper
stereo (eventually)

[tsnow678]

I like the headlights! Do you have to run a relay or will the factory wiring suffice? Your truck is coming together fast and its sweet!!!

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by tsnow678

I like the headlights! Do you have to run a relay or will the factory wiring suffice? Your truck is coming together fast and its sweet!!!

I know its not a requirement, but it should be. Adding the relays is very easy and the light difference is pretty significant.

[wrwelton]

I just came across your restoration. Nice work. Your story is not much different than mine. My father bought my truck new in 72 and gave it to me when I was 16. He is gone now but I was determined to bring it back the way he bought it. Here is my build. It is not quite complete but plan on finishing it this spring.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/waltsprojects/

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by tsnow678

I like the headlights! Do you have to run a relay or will the factory wiring suffice? Your truck is coming together fast and its sweet!!!

The relays are NOT a requirement, just an improvement by getting full battery voltage directly to the lights without drawing all the amps through the light switch. Thanks for the compliment. I'm real happy with where I'm at now. I can drive it just fine as is and make changes as I go along.

Originally Posted by wrwelton

I just came across your restoration. Nice work. Your story is not much different than mine. My father bought my truck new in 72 and gave it to me when I was 16. He is gone now but I was determined to bring it back the way he bought it. Here is my build. It is not quite complete but plan on finishing it this spring.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/waltsprojects/

Nice truck you have there. Not many of us can say we have our first car/truck. Too many wouldn't want their first one anyway (non-descript beater). Sometimes I think going back to original is harder than modifying. You should be back on the road soon.

[wrwelton]

I was wondering since you have put it back together was there an order of operations that worked in the restoration. What I mean is that My truck is basically naked besides the engine and trans, body work is done,what should I do next or does it matter?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by wrwelton

I was wondering since you have put it back together was there an order of operations that worked in the restoration. What I mean is that My truck is basically naked besides the engine and trans, body work is done,what should I do next or does it matter?

What I did was break it down into things that could be done at any time and things that needed to happen before the next step. An example of that is getting the heater box on the firewall before the inner fender can go in. Things that can be done anytime is most of the interior, glass, lighting. Easy to get to and the order doesn't matter much.

One of the biggest things to remember is painting the hardware. Basically every part you put back on has to have the bolts and screws found, cleaned and possibly painted. If I had it to do over again I would get a large piece of cardboard, pop holes in it to hold every bolt I was going to need painted and clean and spray them all at once. Don't use rustoleum if you plan on assembling the part that day, it takes too long to cure. I used another brand that had a faster set time. I ususally started by cleaning every bolt on the wire wheel of my bench grinder holding them with a vise grips, then put them in a cup or bowl and sprayed with brake cleaner. Then put them on the cardboard and sprayed them. Wait a couple hours and then I could assemble. Tedious work no matter how you do it. I considered getting a rock tumbler from harbor freight for cleaning the bolts and I still ight do that for a future build.

In the cab I worked from the firewall outward. Sound deadener, then the heater, wiper motor wire, wire harness and heater hoses, then the rest of the dash. Remember the radio goes in before the ash tray and heater controls. The dash pad is easier to bolt down with the glove box and gauge cluster out. Steering column is hanging loose until the end. Then you do the shifter linkage if column mounted. Glass is last.

The doors are kind of a pain, the wing window is the hard part. Getting it in without scratching the new paint. Use tape on the edges, layers of it. I have the steps listed back in the thread somewhere.

I think the hardest part of the build for me was panel alignment. I did the doors before paint and was happy with the fit. It took a day or so to get it right. I didn't take them off for painting. The front fenders I punched small alignment marks on the cowl before I pulled them off for paint. I kept the radiator support loose on the frame until I was fitting the hood. The cowl was a pain for alignment, but needs to be on for the hood to reference from. Then the grill and the bumpers last.

These trucks are pretty simple and its not that hard to go back and drop something out to get to another part. Many days I just did what I could where I wouldn't get too dirty, or because I just wanted to finish a particular area up. Another tip on the wiring, you need good grounds and everything is painted, so don't forget to scratch some off where the grounds go.

It took me a weekend to dismantle it and I'm still working on assembly since August.

[wrwelton]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

What I did was break it down into things that could be done at any time and things that needed to happen before the next step. An example of that is getting the heater box on the firewall before the inner fender can go in. Things that can be done anytime is most of the interior, glass, lighting. Easy to get to and the order doesn't matter much.

One of the biggest things to remember is painting the hardware. Basically every part you put back on has to have the bolts and screws found, cleaned and possibly painted. If I had it to do over again I would get a large piece of cardboard, pop holes in it to hold every bolt I was going to need painted and clean and spray them all at once. Don't use rustoleum if you plan on assembling the part that day, it takes too long to cure. I used another brand that had a faster set time. I ususally started by cleaning every bolt on the wire wheel of my bench grinder holding them with a vise grips, then put them in a cup or bowl and sprayed with brake cleaner. Then put them on the cardboard and sprayed them. Wait a couple hours and then I could assemble. Tedious work no matter how you do it. I considered getting a rock tumbler from harbor freight for cleaning the bolts and I still ight do that for a future build.

In the cab I worked from the firewall outward. Sound deadener, then the heater, wiper motor wire, wire harness and heater hoses, then the rest of the dash. Remember the radio goes in before the ash tray and heater controls. The dash pad is easier to bolt down with the glove box and gauge cluster out. Steering column is hanging loose until the end. Then you do the shifter linkage if column mounted. Glass is last.

The doors are kind of a pain, the wing window is the hard part. Getting it in without scratching the new paint. Use tape on the edges, layers of it. I have the steps listed back in the thread somewhere.

I think the hardest part of the build for me was panel alignment. I did the doors before paint and was happy with the fit. It took a day or so to get it right. I didn't take them off for painting. The front fenders I punched small alignment marks on the cowl before I pulled them off for paint. I kept the radiator support loose on the frame until I was fitting the hood. The cowl was a pain for alignment, but needs to be on for the hood to reference from. Then the grill and the bumpers last.

These trucks are pretty simple and its not that hard to go back and drop something out to get to another part. Many days I just did what I could where I wouldn't get too dirty, or because I just wanted to finish a particular area up. Another tip on the wiring, you need good grounds and everything is painted, so don't forget to scratch some off where the grounds go.

It took me a weekend to dismantle it and I'm still working on assembly since August.

Thank you, that was very helpful. I made the mistake on not labeling everything when i disassembled the truck. It came apart so fast I forgot to take the time to label. Luckily i have pplenty of pictures. Cant wait till I can drive it.

Walt

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by wrwelton

Thank you, that was very helpful. I made the mistake on not labeling everything when i disassembled the truck. It came apart so fast I forgot to take the time to label. Luckily i have pplenty of pictures. Cant wait till I can drive it.

Walt

I did ok labeling most things, but I still had problems because I had my Jimmy build going simultaneously and had parted out a few trucks in between. I had boxes of parts all over. What I did recently was start going through all the boxes of parts and baggied them with labels. Sorting what I need for each vehicle and got rid of the rest. It's usually not that hard to figure out what goes where (If you get stuck you can always post a question on the board and someone will help). Then all the baggied bolts went into a single box or taped to the part it holds on.

[wrwelton]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I did ok labeling most things, but I still had problems because I had my Jimmy build going simultaneously and had parted out a few trucks in between. I had boxes of parts all over. What I did recently was start going through all the boxes of parts and baggied them with labels. Sorting what I need for each vehicle and got rid of the rest. It's usually not that hard to figure out what goes where (If you get stuck you can always post a question on the board and someone will help). Then all the baggied bolts went into a single box or taped to the part it holds on.

I was about to put gas tank in truck today and realized it had a couple of holes in it. It looks like a beautiful tank but oh well time to fix it. I wonder why they never painted the gas tanks from the factory?

[hgs_notes]

Been a while since I updated here. Mostly been working on the Jimmy, but spring is coming and I want to work on finishing up some of my loose threads on this one. I ordered some Als Liner for the bed and just received a pair of these from Summit.


2.5" mandrel bent stainless universal tailpipes. I really have no idea yet how they will fit, but at just over $50 each and free shipping it was worth it just to get prebent stainless tubing. I decided that I would try welding up the exhaust system myself. I have a Pypes universal cross pipe on it now with some flowmasters hanging on that I have used just for driving around on. I know I need to modify that to fit the way I want, then get the tailpipes situated, then I can determine what I'll need to connect the front to the back pipes to finish it up.

So there should be more progress posted here in the next month or so. Sure wish I had a lift right now. Jack stands will have to do.

[lyrikz]

You have a tig welder? I dont think you can mig weld stainless. At least i couldnt.

[hgs_notes]

Stainless will weld in a MIG welder. In fact the Pypes kit instructions had that method listed in them. As a back up plan I know a couple guys with TIG welders. Back in the day I was qualified to do nuclear pipe on stainless, inconel, monel, and a few other alloys using TIG or SMAW (stick on steel pipe only). I once qualified as an ASME TIG welder for a code shop I was inspecting for. There's not much I haven't tried for welding methods myself, just didn't make a living at it so I don't have the 1000's of hours experience. I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing, just not as pretty as the guys that do it all the time.

That being said, I will have a TIG welder someday. Just haven't found one I want that I can afford yet.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Stainless will weld with steel wire in a MIG welder. In fact the Pypes kit instructions had that method listed in them. As a back up plan I know a couple guys with TIG welders. Back in the day I was qualified to do nuclear pipe on stainless, inconel, monel, and a few other alloys using TIG or SMAW (stick on steel pipe only). I once qualified as an ASME TIG welder for a code shop I was inspecting for. There's not much I haven't tried for welding methods myself, just didn't make a living at it so I don't have the 1000's of hours experience. I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing, just not as pretty as the guys that do it all the time.

That being said, I will have a TIG welder someday. Just haven't found one I want that I can afford yet.

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!! So, i just needed to change to steel wire instead of the cooper color stuff im using and i can weld stainless with my mig?? Cool beans.

[hgs_notes]

Found this on the Miller site.

GMAW Electrode and Shielding Gas Selection

For welding 304 stainless steel, ER308, ER308L and ER308LSI wires are compatible. Use a "tri-mix" shielding gas consisting of 90 percent helium/8 percent argon/2 percent CO2. Note: Do not attempt to weld thin metal with flux cored wires. These wires use more heat because they require globular transfer. Unlike short arc, where the weld puddle cools every time the wire touches the base metal, the arc remains "on" constantly with globular transfer.

I'll definitely post what adjustments I have to do on mine when I give it a try. If I fail, I'll post that too. I'm not too proud to hide my warts.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

For welding 304 stainless steel, ER308, ER308L and ER308LSI wires are compatible. For welding 316L stainless, you need a 316L wire. Use a "tri-mix" shielding gas consisting of 90 percent helium/8 percent argon/2 percent CO2. Note: Do not attempt to weld thin metal with flux cored wires. These wires use more heat because they require globular transfer. Unlike short arc, where the weld puddle cools every time the wire touches the base metal, the arc remains "on" constantly with globular transfer.

I'll definitely post what adjustments I have to do on mine when I give it a try. If I fail, I'll post that too. I'm not too proud to hide my warts.

Ok, maybe the piece of stainless i was useing was 316L cause it wouldnt weld. IM using the 75-25 mix so that could be an issue to. I dont do anything with stainless really. I was just thinking i was helping you out. ahaha I didnt know you were a welding ninja.

Im happy i can do stainless now with some mild adjustments.

[hgs_notes]

The thing is, it can be done using the basic mild steel set up for a small job that is not critical, but there are better methods. I'll buy a small spool of stainless wire and maybe rent a small bottle of tri-mix gas. I looked for stainless wire locally but had no luck. Friday I'll be in Minneapolis and can go to a real weld supply store that should have it in stock.

[hgs_notes]

Did a little research, talked to the local welding supply store and he said I should be able to get a good weld using the 75/25 mix I have now and a .030 stainless wire. He said if it was for show car and it was butt welds then the tri-mix would be the way to go. He also said the main problem using the steel wire is that the wire tends to melt too fast and that by the time you get a puddle going in the stainless base metal it can blow through, but that I might be able to put the arc over the outer layer of the joint and use that as part of the fill metal since most of the welding will be slip fit joints rather than butt welds. I think I'll just pick up the stainless wire, use my current gas mix and try it out on a small piece. The problem for me and getting tri-mix is that they only carry the large bottles of it, which I can't afford and is not worth the cost for a small job like this.

[Mike Bradbury]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Did a little research, talked to the local welding supply store and he said I should be able to get a good weld using the 75/25 mix I have now and a .030 stainless wire. He said if it was for show car and it was butt welds then the tri-mix would be the way to go. He also said the main problem using the steel wire is that the wire tends to melt too fast and that by the time you get a puddle going in the stainless base metal it can blow through, but that I might be able to put the arc over the outer layer of the joint and use that as part of the fill metal since most of the welding will be slip fit joints rather than butt welds. I think I'll just pick up the stainless wire, use my current gas mix and try it out on a small piece. The problem for me and getting tri-mix is that they only carry the large bottles of it, which I can't afford and is not worth the cost for a small job like this.

I have had good results using the C25 on S.S. I have found that rather than trying to run a continuous bead on the thin stuff a triggering approach yields a nice dime patterned bead, also S.S. tends to crack in the heat affected zone if it is overheated from welding. I think you should not have any burn through issues since you are doing a lap joint.

[hgs_notes]

Just ordered some stainless weld wire through amazon because it was quite a bit cheaper than what I can get locally and both places I called were out of stock anyway. Also ordered my headlight conversion kit from there and an electric fan control for my Jimmy. If you didn't know already, amazon carries a ton of car parts and tools and the prices are either competitive with or flat out cheaper than any online retailer.