Make it handle

[BMERDOC]

Here is a question I was just asked and before I sit and ponder it I wanted to post it.

Does lowering the rear (leveling the truck) affect front caster in a "positive" way?

My initial thought is yes. It does affect the effective front caster towards more positive angle because as the rear is lowered the centerline of the front ball joints is turned back. My alignment machine asks for chassis angle so I figure it uses that to help calculate caster. I'm not sure by how much without doing the tests but if I visualize it correctly it would have a Positive effect on front camber.

[robnolimit]

HGSyes, a wider stance on the sway bar mounts is a plus, but you have to clear steering, suspension and tire movement. Also, as the bar itself gets wider, it has to be thicker/stiffer just to have the same spring rate as a narrow bar. Thru frame bars work great. As Hotrod1 showed. We helped him out with all the parts, but this is honestly not something the average guy is going to do. Hotrod1 definately is showing some skills.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

I'm really interested in the low-buck caster mod to the lower control arm that was referenced earlier in this thread. Did it ever work?

I am a big believer in caster, and I am ready to do the spindle swap on my '64 (already swapped it over to a '79 suspension). I would really be interested in doing this mod while I've got it apart.

The modified arm, with the new ball joint socket, has been givin a torture test on the JT. they're still there. No problems, and works great. I know of two guys who have drilled a new dimple hole in the lower cross-shaft to move the arm forward an inch. This also requires a bit of grinding for clearance on the back of the crossmember. Both trucks are up and running and this also seams to work great.
Some manufacturers, like Ridetech, are talking about changing there A-arm fixtures to build more caster - This is a direct response to the Pro-Touring/Autocross movent to build better handling cars/trucks. Score one for the good guys.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Here is a question I was just asked and before I sit and ponder it I wanted to post it.

Does lowering the rear (leveling the truck) affect front caster in a "positive" way?

My initial thought is yes. It does affect the effective front caster towards more positive angle because as the rear is lowered the centerline of the front ball joints is turned back. My alignment machine asks for chassis angle so I figure it uses that to help calculate caster. I'm not sure by how much without doing the tests but if I visualize it correctly it would have a Positive effect on front camber.

Sure. You can get one or two degrees. Some Rally classes are famous for that trick, the have to use all stock arms and mounts, so you will see the front up 2" or 3" and the back down 2", for a net gain of 3 deg caster. - and some other bennies.

[ItsRandy]

Hey Rob, have you gotten into production the rear sway bar for the 67 - 72 Chevy pick-ups yet? You know...like the one you have on your shop truck (JT). I sure would like to buy one of those from you.

[robnolimit]

we're just waiting for powder coat.

[67cheby]

my rear suspension consist of , PB 4 link and a KP watts link, i went with the watts link because i like the looks of it and how it keeps the rearend centered , is there any other benefits of the watts link ? and what would you recommend for a sway bar with this setup ? i would like to do the autocross course for fun next year at a couple of the GG events !

[robnolimit]

That all looks great! The watts does hold things perfectly centered, which makes things really smooth. Check with Nate, I think he has a rear bar. If not check out speedway engineering, use a bar thats about as wide as the 4 bar stance, and a 12" arm. Kugal has a bolt that is 5/8" x 3", with a 3/8" stud out the head for a sway bar mount.

[hotrod1]

Hey Rob:

That bolt sounds like the answer to my problem. I called Kugal and talked to Jeff and he was somewhat unsure. He said that he may have something like that with a 7/16 not a 3/8. Does this sound right? Made of stainless? They use it for their front suspension.

[67cheby]

so are you saying the bolt has an extra set of threads so you can use the same mount on the rearend for the swaybar ? not sure i am understanding this right ?

[hotrod1]

This may be hard to see, but look to the lowest point of the sway bar link hiem. You can see the bolt that bolts the top bar of the 4 link to the axle bracket has a smaller threaded part coming out of it that the link bolts to as well.

I would sure like to know where to get one in 3/8? Maybe have to go up to 7/16?

[67cheby]

too cool, i understand now...pictures , that i can understand ! LOL

[robnolimit]

That may have been the ones, 7/16" Also try TCI in ontario Ca, They have a similar bolt.

[hotrod1]

Hey Rob:

You were right. TCI has it. It is 5/8 x4 1/4 that steps down to a 3/8 for the swaybar heim. The part number is 113-1032 and they sell for $8 each.

[67cheby]

cool , thanks guys going to look into this !

[hotrod1]

Here is their build sheet to see it better.

https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=h...r_Sway_Bar.pdf

By the way, I would make sure to use Robs suggestion for the bar. He set me up and saved me a lot of time looking for the right solution. I am running a 1 1/4 hollow 3 piece nascar style bar. Nice stuff.

[robnolimit]

Yep, thats the bolt. I knew TCI was good for something. If you call them, ask for Evan.

[taank]

i recently orderd a rear bag kit from avs. its going to be a stock to 4 inch drop at various times. do i need to replace the panhard bar or do a shock relocate?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by taank

i recently orderd a rear bag kit from avs. its going to be a stock to 4 inch drop at various times. do i need to replace the panhard bar or do a shock relocate?

If you're adjusting the ride height, I would recommend getting an aftermarket rear Panhard bar. The short OE bars & their mounting location would allow for more side to side travel vs. an aftermarket (longer) Panhard bar would (the longer the bar, the less side shift when the suspension cycles up/down).

On the shocks, I would determine your preferred ride height & mearure for shock travel. It's possible the 4" drop will be @ the max for shock compression but if it's only @ that height for a limited period of time, it might not be worth messing with. Once you know your typical ride height, it should be fairly easy to crunch the numbers & see if relocating the mounting points would benefit your set-up.

[robnolimit]

Originally Posted by taank

i recently orderd a rear bag kit from avs. its going to be a stock to 4 inch drop at various times. do i need to replace the panhard bar or do a shock relocate?

You'll need both. Check out our new adjustable long panhard rod and rear relocated shock mount kits. use the 'B' length shock.

[taank]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

You'll need both. Check out our new adjustable long panhard rod and rear relocated shock mount kits. use the 'B' length shock.

part numbers? your site is under construction

[robnolimit]

Oops, I'll have Michelle post uo friday. We're on our way to Pleasanton for the goodguys show. If your close, come on out, this show is open to all years, american made.

[robnolimit]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!!!! To all veterans and active duty, thank you for protecting our freedom. Have a great veterans day. You deserve it.

[snm95ls]

I am very impressed with the info contained in this thread.

Robnolimit, congrats to you guys for all of your success at the various races. It is truly impressive to see trucks being tossed around on an autox course and not only doing well, but winning events.

Keep up the great work guys.

[robnolimit]

Thanks, chalk up another one. We won the truck class this weekend in Pleasonton at the GoodGuys show. We ran 28.961, Mike Maier ran 27.227 to win the vendor class. Hobauch ran 26.885 in the Wilwood camaro, winning the street machine class and fast lap overall. Had a great weekend up here.
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