Project: Shiro

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Cab corner looks great Buck! I should have cut mine out exactly how it has been done in the picture. Trying to smooth out the welds and keep the metal as flat as possible is impossible with all the spot welds that angle down on the back where I cut my cab corner at. It was my second cab corner and now that I've done a couple I understand why yours is done the way it is.

You're a better man than I for taking it on, I tried and knew quickly I was outmatched. DeWayne is killin' it, I really appreciate his hard work.

Drivers cab corner installed...


Another view of the driver side cab corner...


Driver door fit...


Frame rails fresh from the powder coater.


Frame loosely bolted together. We'll have to square it up and burn'em down another night, I have to work in the morning and 4am comes early.

[sduckworth13]

Thanks Buck. Excellent work on the frame Buck, it looks awesome. The only reason I like doing my own sheetmetal is that I know that I have only myself to blame for any shortcuts taken. There is no question that your truck is in good hands with Nsane.

[mcbassin]

Those guys are really doing some nice work on the rust repair! and fast too. The chassis looks great too. Keep up the good work.

[Chvy2NV]

Wow Ernie. This is really starting to move along quite fast. Everything looks great man!! Gonna be killer when it's done!!
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[c10Dream'n]

that body work is looking FANTASTIC!!!!

[shawno72]

Looking good!

[C10_ustacould]

Pics from Nsane Hot Rodz...

[C10_ustacould]

... momentum killer, no updates from Nsane Hot Rodz today. Luckily we have a chassis in the garage that needs to be built.

[Advanced Design]

Cab looks great and is coming along fast! Chassis...drool...I have a thing for nice looking chassis'...love it.

[SeTx67]

This thing is going to be insane. You guys are knocking it out

[C10_ustacould]

First update for the day... I think there may be another later.

Fuel filler before...


Fuel filler during... rolled edge removed and prepped for a filler panel.


Those d@mn topper boot snaps have been filled! I think he said 41 or so.


We are replacing the drivers door upon DeWaynes suggestion and due to rust damage to the inner door braces and on the flange. I'm sure we'll see something on this in the next week or so.

[GAc10boy]

Lookin' good!

[sduckworth13]

Good info to know about the fuel filler. Glad you don't have to be reminded of the "old" cab now that the snaps are gone...oh and the rust. Looks great Buck!

[Advanced Design]

This is like watching a build on fast forward. Cool!

[C10_ustacould]

Second update from Nsane Hot Rodz today...

New driver's door in place...


New Driver's rocker panel in place...


Another view of the new rocker...


And finally the new door, rocker panel, and cab corner interfacing.

[smbrouss70]

Cool! That is definitely NOT in South Louisiana, because all of that bare metal would be a nice shade of rust by now.

[C10_ustacould]

Here is a learning opportunity for everyone. Please remember to clean ALL of the powder coat residue out of the threads of your parts and use anti-seize when assembling them.

Trailing arm and heim joint after is seized up on me while trying to install it, this is going to cause some @$$ pain.

[nlped]

^^^ That SUCKS. Sorry dude.

[lolife99]

I would chase all the threaded components with a tap.
I had a welded nut on a rear bridge do the same thing.
Clean threads and anti-seize, like you said is the answer.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by nlped

^^^ That SUCKS. Sorry dude.

Yep, it sure does. My own fault.

Originally Posted by lolife99

I would chase all the threaded components with a tap.
I had a welded nut on a rear bridge do the same thing.
Clean threads and anti-seize, like you said is the answer.

I assume you are talking about chasing the threads after powder coat and before final assembly. You are correct, I wire brushed them but didn't go deep enough. I think I could shorten the heim joint and still use it, but I'm probably going to have to replace the threaded bung on this trailing arm. Going to call the guy at PB Fab and see what we can do.

[mcbassin]

Ouch! That looks painful. I bet you can salvage the heim joint for sure but the female threads look toast. Good luck!

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

I assume you are talking about chasing the threads after powder coat and before final assembly. You are correct, I wire brushed them but didn't go deep enough. I think I could shorten the heim joint and still use it, but I'm probably going to have to replace the threaded bung on this trailing arm. Going to call the guy at PB Fab and see what we can do.

Not really.
It seems sometimes when a nut is welded it distorts the nut.
I had started a bolt and ran it in with an impact during mock up.
It ate the threads when I removed it.
This was the only one.
So I now chase all the theads of any welded nut just to make sure.
(this was the bridge that bolts to the PB step notch).
I also check them after having parts powder coated.

For cleaning threads,... I don't use a normal tap and die set.
I use a set of thread chasers that I got from Sears, years ago.
They're made for cleaning, not cutting.
(I guess they have a shallower cutting edge)
You can chuck them up in a battery drill to make quick work of this job.

[Malamute]

Sucks about the heim joint Ernie but in the grand scheme of things, just a bump in the road compared to the other stuff!

It's really starting to take shape!

[nlped]

A tap & die for that trailing arm/Heim combo will be pricey. That's not a small hole.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Ouch! That looks painful. I bet you can salvage the heim joint for sure but the female threads look toast. Good luck!

Maybe, I'll lean on Nate for the answer to that question.

Originally Posted by lolife99

Not really.
It seems sometimes when a nut is welded it distorts the nut.
I had started a bolt and ran it in with an impact during mock up.
It ate the threads when I removed it.
This was the only one.
So I now chase all the theads of any welded nut just to make sure.
(this was the bridge that bolts to the PB step notch).
I also check them after having parts powder coated.

For cleaning threads,... I don't use a normal tap and die set.
I use a set of thread chasers that I got from Sears, years ago.
They're made for cleaning, not cutting.
(I guess they have a shallower cutting edge)
You can chuck them up in a battery drill to make quick work of this job.

I understand what you are saying and agree 100%, I need to have a set up like that.

Originally Posted by Malamute

Sucks about the heim joint Ernie but in the grand scheme of things, just a bump in the road compared to the other stuff!

It's really starting to take shape!

Thanks brutha! The cost is starting to weight heavy on my mind and the money wasted by redoing things doesn't help, but I'm going to push through as best I can.