My Dusty 71 GMCe Electruck

[Gregski]

36" divided by 4 equals enuff sticks for 2 battery modules

how do you properly cut threaded stock to keep the nuts going back on them, any tips?

[Gregski]

so one on top and one on the bottom, upside down, bat style

[Gregski]

so this is the Oreo Cookie battery tray design, respectfully stolen from Sir Artur Kustusch

Jaguar XJR EV Conversion - Battery Box Build - Part 1

[yuccales]

Originally Posted by Gregski

how do you properly cut threaded stock to keep the nuts going back on them, any tips?

I used to put a couple of nuts on the rod, make my cut, then unthread the nuts off the rod. Kinda a poor mans thread chaser.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

It's not the punch, it's the hammer!

You'll be rolling down the road in Dusty soon.

ha ha, are you suggesting we should have gone with the BFH ?

[8man]

Not necessarily, the one you used is curved, and that affects the aerodynamics of the downward strike....

[Kronald_70GMC]

I've done the same thing but I also grind a taper on the end of the rod before taking off the nut. It leaves a nice clean cut.

[72 tigger]

With all tread, I typically spin a nut on before I cut and then taper the cut on a bench grinder and lastly spin the nut off to clean the threads. Hopefully this makes sense

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

Not necessarily, the one you used is curved, and that affects the aerodynamics of the downward strike....

not sure if you are serious or not, my original point was that them pretzel sticks don't always fit the holes nice and snug, some sticks are just a bit too big the others just a bit too small, so when you stick the stick that will fit in the hole there is some play some times, kapish, iriegardless of the downward strike

[8man]

OH, I get it now.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 72 tigger

With all tread, I typically spin a nut on before I cut and then taper the cut on a bench grinder and lastly spin the nut off to clean the threads. Hopefully this makes sense

it does, and I've done the same, I was hoping for some super duper trick especially when you are using Grade 3 or Grade 5 nuts, they are really soft metal and the nut gets damaged in the process of trying to bend the all thread into submission, know what I am sayin', I guess you could use harder material nuts like Grade 8

[Kronald_70GMC]

There is always this thing-a-mabob

https://youtu.be/x9jlxid_MnQ

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Kronald_70GMC

There is always this thing-a-mabob

https://youtu.be/x9jlxid_MnQ

awesum, thank you Kyle,

there's also this for only $400 bucks (at $2.50 per pre cut 1 foot rod, we could buy 160 pre cut rods for that price) ha ha

[fatbass]

Originally Posted by Gregski

it does, and I've done the same, I was hoping for some super duper trick especially when you are using Grade 3 or Grade 5 nuts, they are really soft metal and the nut gets damaged in the process of trying to bend the all thread into submission, know what I am sayin', I guess you could use harder material nuts like Grade 8

Try using an actual thread die instead of nuts and use some tap fluid to help it cut.

This build thread is fascinating. I'm subbed now.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by fatbass

Try using an actual thread die instead of nuts and use some tap fluid to help it cut.

This build thread is fascinating. I'm subbed now.

tried that, the 1/4-20 thread die wouldn't even screw on to the original uncut threaded rod to begin with, strange? I thought but with today's quality and it being a cheap die set, who knows

[Gregski]

so here's a peak looksee what we are going for, I don't even know if that Tesla Model 3 battery charger / DC-DC converter combo unit is laying on there right side up or upside down, (you tell me, ha ha)

I am also entertaining shoving it under where the oil pan used to live there may be just enough of a cavity to bolt it up to the battery tray from underneath, for that German like impossible to get to to troubleshoot feel

[Gregski]

actual footage of me going to clean the THIRD lower control arm

[Gregski]

The Nigerian ball joint puller !

[Gregski]

and this is all the crud that we manually remove with some hand tools such as the putty knife and metal toothbrushes and some elbow grease before even thinking of spreading the rest across our beautiful lawn with the wire wheel

[Gregski]

and here it is after the first encounter of the four inch kind

[Gregski]

so I thought maybe all that tar and road grease and grime is good for it maybe that keeps it from rusting? WRONG !

rust is like cancer, it is nasty and dwells under all that grime which only serves to capture and encapsulate moisture

[Gregski]

so got a new jug of Concrete and Metal Prep which they renamed, removed the "removes rust" part and there is no mention of Phosphoric acid anywhere on the 90% in Spanish label, also they raised the price, can't wait to see how lame this assumably new formula works

[Gregski]

No One: How do you know when to stop wire wheelin'?

Me:

[Gregski]

the steerage got some Cool Whip treatment as well

[fatbass]

Originally Posted by Gregski

it does, and I've done the same, I was hoping for some super duper trick especially when you are using Grade 3 or Grade 5 nuts, they are really soft metal and the nut gets damaged in the process of trying to bend the all thread into submission, know what I am sayin', I guess you could use harder material nuts like Grade 8

Originally Posted by Gregski

tried that, the 1/4-20 thread die wouldn't even screw on to the original uncut threaded rod to begin with, strange? I thought but with today's quality and it being a cheap die set, who knows

You're probably right. I checked my dies out for fit and none of my new, sharp dies will go easily on stock wrinkle rod but the die i inherited from my grandpa works perfectly. It looks well-used so maybe that's why.
There is always that set of jeweler's files that come in handy for unbuggering threads.