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Old 06-08-2012, 07:18 AM   #1
R.A.D
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

very nice............. enjoy your vacation
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Old 06-08-2012, 07:56 AM   #2
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

VACATION! Nooooooooooo! ( head on desk weeping)
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:12 AM   #3
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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Those look fantastic! Well played my friend.
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Thanks Frizzle!

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very nice............. enjoy your vacation
Oh, I will!

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VACATION! Nooooooooooo! ( head on desk weeping)
Yep, gotta take the fam and get out of town.
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Old 06-08-2012, 10:47 AM   #4
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

You got serious skills dude.. Keep it up..
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Old 06-08-2012, 11:45 AM   #5
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

Looken good Greg. Have fun on your vacation. Where ya goin?
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:23 PM   #6
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

cool build i just read all 39 pages took a lil while but this is a great build kepp it up and the pics flowing
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:57 PM   #7
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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You got serious skills dude.. Keep it up..
Thanks.

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Looken good Greg. Have fun on your vacation. Where ya goin?
Thanks, Dennis. I'm taking the fam to Florida to lay on the beach and maybe go to Disney World. Should be fun witha 3 year old.

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cool build i just read all 39 pages took a lil while but this is a great build kepp it up and the pics flowing
Thanks. I'm already anxious to get back and work on it and I haven't even left yet.
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:05 PM   #8
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

Progress is looking good,Ive been watching this one for a while.Good luck in Fla.My family and I went to Disney in April and it sure was packed but I guess you have to expect that,If I have one piece of advice it is to get there when the parks open in the morning.Be safe.
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Old 06-09-2012, 03:24 PM   #9
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

those mounts are trick !! always always such nice work
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Old 06-10-2012, 11:59 AM   #10
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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those mounts are trick !! always always such nice work
Thanks Dino. They came out nice but I seriously worked on them for almost two days. I'm slooooowww at this stuff.
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Old 06-10-2012, 12:10 PM   #11
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

the truck is looking good! when you leave for vacation??
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Old 06-10-2012, 03:09 PM   #12
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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the truck is looking good! when you leave for vacation??
Thanks. Mentally I'm already there.
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Old 06-10-2012, 06:54 PM   #13
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

i thought you were...........
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Old 06-11-2012, 12:10 AM   #14
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

Did you leave yet? It's all clear lets jack this thread. Have fun on vaca.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:56 AM   #15
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

Hijack???????? How shocking would that be?
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Old 06-11-2012, 08:02 PM   #16
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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Old 10-01-2012, 12:59 PM   #17
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

Shrunken, I'm going to be using an LS2 and No Limit's R&P on my '66. Do you think there would be any interference issues with notching the crossmember to drop the engine/trans lower?

From this pic it looks like there's room for maybe a couple inches? I imagine that it would be tough fitting headers around the frame rails if it was dropped any more. Thanks in advance.

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Old 10-01-2012, 01:06 PM   #18
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

Dude...
As always great work....one of the best 64-66 threads there is....you have great vision
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Old 10-01-2012, 01:12 PM   #19
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

move the engine back to get away from the cross member and get a different pan. Better weight distribution and center of gravity. You will need to deal with your firewall though.

Autokraft has a nice pan for an LS. http://www.autokraft.org/products/
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:08 PM   #20
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

wow its been almost 4 months since we got an update, he must be busy taking pictures or forgot about us!!!
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:43 PM   #21
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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wow its been almost 4 months since we got an update, he must be busy taking pictures or forgot about us!!!
Probably just now cooling off in Nevada enough so he can touch it. Last time we saw it, it was all brushed steel yes?
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:14 PM   #22
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

damn i hope everything is alright!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:30 AM   #23
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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Originally Posted by theastronaut View Post
Shrunken, I'm going to be using an LS2 and No Limit's R&P on my '66. Do you think there would be any interference issues with notching the crossmember to drop the engine/trans lower?

From this pic it looks like there's room for maybe a couple inches? I imagine that it would be tough fitting headers around the frame rails if it was dropped any more. Thanks in advance.

Astronaut, the problems I see with lowering the engine might be prohibitive. Ultimately it's up to you but here goes. You'll have to custom fab the engine mounts and headers or cut the frame rail to squeeze headers in. You will have to get a shallower pan than the "muscle car swap" pan I have, which is about flush with the bottom of the crossmember. The f-body pan should work. I don't have the accessory drive yet, so that's a variable that I can't give you any insight on.

Notching the cross member won't be a problem, you just need to leave enough room to get to the nuts to tighten the rack mounting plate inside the crossmember. You might have to reroute the brake lines that run along the rear of the crossmember. Also, address the usuals stuff like drive shaft angle, length and shifter location. A couple inches probably won't affect flow between the block and radiator, right?

And after all of that, when you're done the engine compartment might look half empty. I don't know if it's worth the trouble, honestly. You're already taking a ton of weight off the front end with aluminum block, heads and no boat anchor steering box. Are you planning on racing autocross with it? If you are, go for it. If it's a street truck then I wouldn't bother with an inch or two either way. I hope this ramble helps. Good luck!

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Originally Posted by wutnxt View Post
Dude...
As always great work....one of the best 64-66 threads there is....you have great vision
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod1 View Post
move the engine back to get away from the cross member and get a different pan. Better weight distribution and center of gravity. You will need to deal with your firewall though.

Yes, good advice. If you move it back more than two inches the fire wall will need to be addressed.

Autokraft has a nice pan for an LS. http://www.autokraft.org/products/
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wow its been almost 4 months since we got an update, he must be busy taking pictures or forgot about us!!!
I've been lurking a little and definitely didn't forget. I haven't gotten much done over the summer because I've been busy with work and family. Business is getting better... Finally!

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Originally Posted by McMurphy View Post
Probably just now cooling off in Nevada enough so he can touch it. Last time we saw it, it was all brushed steel yes?
And it still is!

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damn i hope everything is alright!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All good, just trying to pay some bills. Thanks, guys.
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:15 PM   #24
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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All good, just trying to pay some bills. Thanks, guys.
Paying bils! Are you maskerading as a responsible adult or something?
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:06 PM   #25
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Re: Shrunken66Stroker's build thread.

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Originally Posted by shrunken66stroker View Post
Astronaut, the problems I see with lowering the engine might be prohibitive. Ultimately it's up to you but here goes. You'll have to custom fab the engine mounts and headers or cut the frame rail to squeeze headers in. You will have to get a shallower pan than the "muscle car swap" pan I have, which is about flush with the bottom of the crossmember. The f-body pan should work. I don't have the accessory drive yet, so that's a variable that I can't give you any insight on.

Notching the cross member won't be a problem, you just need to leave enough room to get to the nuts to tighten the rack mounting plate inside the crossmember. You might have to reroute the brake lines that run along the rear of the crossmember. Also, address the usuals stuff like drive shaft angle, length and shifter location. A couple inches probably won't affect flow between the block and radiator, right?

And after all of that, when you're done the engine compartment might look half empty. I don't know if it's worth the trouble, honestly. You're already taking a ton of weight off the front end with aluminum block, heads and no boat anchor steering box. Are you planning on racing autocross with it? If you are, go for it. If it's a street truck then I wouldn't bother with an inch or two either way. I hope this ramble helps. Good luck!
Glad to see that all is well with you, and thanks for the detailed reply! It'll be a street truck that will occasionally see autocross action. Most of the things you listed will be things I'll be doing anyways (my own engine mounts and brake lines, move shifter forward, aftermarket baffled oil pan) so it may not be that much more work other than the headers and chopping the crossmember. I'd like to keep the stock low hump floor if possible so dropping the engine would help gain clearance for the T56. Rob at No Limit posted that guys do extra work to lower the engine even fractions of an inch when possible for track cars so 1-2 inches should be worth the extra work.

This is definitely one of my favorite build threads, can't wait to see what's next with it!
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