1963 C-10 in NC

[1963c-10]

and yeah, i expect some paint casualty.

[Sharps40]

Man last time we fired one it was big smoke! Bakein the paint in place and an awesome scary sight!

[1963c-10]

Haha....right on. Last time I broke in a big block it was in the late 90's in my 69 Chevelle SS. I was 18 or 19 and was so damn excited hearing that big block fire up I could have run a marathon.

I've got a check list of stuff that I'll keep on standby for initial start up. Fire extinguisher included.

Paint can always be touched up, so not real worried about that. Your welcome to come down when the times right if you want to. I can keep you updated on it.

[Sharps40]

Remember, no tire shreding the first 4000 miles!

[1963c-10]

I hear you there....especially with the cost of the new white walls....

I'll still have the rear end to convert to posi...so tire shredding will have to wait a few weeks. I'll need to take it easy on the ol one legger so I don't shred it.

[Sharps40]

Yep, 4000 miles. A 500 mile oil and filter change with full service checks and retorques.

The first 3500 mile oil and filter change, full service checks and retorques.

At this point ye'll be confident in the entire system, very familiar with its performance quirks and characteristics and ride quality and with bunghole just absolutly quiverin to suck up an upholstery plug on the first burnout.

[Sharps40]

Make sure ya got a spatula near by to break the seal twixt ass and seat after the first burn out. Scotchguard the upholstery first.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by Sharps40

Make sure ya got a spatula near by to break the seal twixt ass and seat after the first burn out. Scotchguard the upholstery first.

Haha....my upholsterer already did the scotch guard treatment for me.

[dwcardfan]

The big block looks sweet!!!!!

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by dwcardfan

The big block looks sweet!!!!!

Thanks a bunch for the kind words!!

[1963c-10]

good news, finally got the engine conversion started. pulled the radiator and all electric systems, got the engine disconnected and removed. got the starter and bellhousing pans pulled for clean up as they'll be reused. motor mounts are pulled and i got a few coats of degreaser down. hood is off and front end will be next. i'll get the trans, driveshaft and bellhousing pulled tomorrow. i also got the exhaust system removed. removed all bolted in clutch components, just the frame mounted portion to grind the rivots off of. i'll also try and get the m/c and upper brake lines out. once front ends out 8 can get the crossmember dropped and the frame prepped. i'll get some pics up later

[1963c-10]

Heres a few pics from last night and this morning. Feels good to finally get started on this part of the project. A few years worth of saving and buying parts coming to a head and alot of conversions and upgrades going on. Will b amuch differnt ride.

-Engine conversion 230 to 427
-Trans from standard non synchronized column shift to hd fully synchronized floor shift
-Cluth from mechanical to hydraulic
-Brakes from 4 wheel drum/single master to disk brakes on dual mc w/stainless steel lines
-All new front suspension, springs & shocks + adding sway bar

[1963c-10]

Some more progress today. Have done all work solo so far, but I'll get done what I can on nights and weekends and it'll get done when its done. A forum member Eric stopped by today. He's getting transferred to Bragg from Eustis and is a helicopter mechanic. Has was nice enough to help remove the hood while he was there...much needed and thanks a bunch!!

Heres a few of the engine coming out and of it completely out. All bolts have come out great so far. Will get more done tomorrow. Didn't get a pic of the bays 1st degreasing or of the engine mounts and clutch mounts out, but it'll be in pics down the road.

Note*** Harbor freight hoist has worked great for the 427, the 348 and the 230. There was still another 6-7 inches left on the boom, and it was in the rear position. Its a 1 ton foldable and I'm completely satisfied with every project it's done so far. Payed like $105 shipped to the house with the online coupon a few months back.

[WhippinSaw]

Excited for ya , beautiful job on the motor, gonna be sweet.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by WhippinSaw

Excited for ya , beautiful job on the motor, gonna be sweet.

i appreciate the compliments. work has been at a stand still due to the storms. had a flash flood come through earlier and the creek in my front yard went up 2' in less than an hour. washed out over the driveway and took a few inches of crush and run with it. got some pretty good size hail too. but hopefully it'l pass in a day or so and i can get the driveway fixed and back on the truck. im ready to get the front end off and front crossmember dropped. its my weeks goal.

i cant wait to get her back on the road and its only been a few days.

[Captainfab]

Which exhaust kit did you purchase?

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Which exhaust kit did you purchase?

I ordered the Thrush kit (although its all got Dynomax stickers) # WLK-89027 through Summit racing. Was $245.97 with free shipping. Did take about a week to arrive since it came from their west coast warehouse. Its a great looking kit and the pipes fit together nice. Don't know how it sounds yet, but we''' know in a few weeks. I'll run the mufflers that came with the kit, I can always change them if I don't like them. All hardware and the mufflers come with, but they do come with the flat style flange fittings for headers. I ordered some ball style flanges to go with my Hedman headers. Advertised for 1966 - 1972 small block and big block 2wd trucks, so I figured it couldn't be to far off of a fit for the 63.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-89027/overview/

[1963c-10]

Once the front ends off and the crossmembers in I can get the hole drilled in the crossmember for the cpp mounts in the rear location. Trim frame rails for header clearance and check valve cover clearance.

[1963c-10]

Got a little mre truck time in today. Got the driveshaft removed, transmission and bellhousing. Was able to do a few coats of degreasing and get the frame cleaned up real nice. Ground down the rivet heads to remove the frame linkage. Then groud down the rivets to clean the frame up. Pulled all of the rear brake lines and disconnected the system from the mc. I'll pull the front lines with the crossmember once the front end is removed. Then applied a good coat of rust converter/sealer/inhibitor to protect the frame. I want at least one more coat, I normally do 2 and 2 coats of paint with great success.

I feel good with 1st weekend work. Little tired from all the work and jumping in and out of the truck for 2 days, but its getting there.

We've got a few days of rain coming so may be a few days before i get the front end off.

[61K10]

looking good--a little here--a little there and you will be done lol! don't we wish it was that easy--

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by 61K10

looking good--a little here--a little there and you will be done lol! don't we wish it was that easy--

Yeah...wish it was like the 1 hour tv shows, but then reality steps in and it'll be time consuming. I've always been a fan of the little projects because they do add up. Especially with my work load and I'm never sure where my time will open up.

[Eric15chevys]

I showed the picture of the engine removal at work and a guy there might be interested.

[1963c-10]

Originally Posted by Eric15chevys

I showed the picture of the engine removal at work and a guy there might be interested.

Ok, just let me know. I"ll hold off on listing it then until we see what he says. Its complete from air cleaner to oil pan. I'd recommend a rebuild or at least new rings/gaskets. Still holds 40 psi cold on oil and will hold 30-35 psi warm all day long. Was last run on 4/23/14. It is 51 years old and has never rebuilt to my knowledge. I have all the records back to 1972 on the truck/engine.

Fuel pump was replaced about 4k miles back. Carb was replaced w/ a Holly remanufactured 1bbl Rochester a year ago. Pertronix II was installed 2 years ago w/matching coil. You've seen the engine, so you pretty much know what it entails. I've never had to do any major work to it....ie. take the head or oil pan off.

I will be keeping the alternator (its the same part # for my 348 "w" block, but the brackets will go with the engine.

The transmission will need a home too. Muncie mc318 non-synchronized 3 speed. I have a few pics of the engine I can post for you.

[1963c-10]

Got home late last night and saw the UPS guy beating feet down the driveway at a fast pace. Looked to the left and figured out why. Exhaust kit came in .....and obviously out somewhere. Looks like the box was ripped completely in half and half ass taped back up. And the exhaust pipe was stuck completely out of the box. Took pics for reference...and did inventory. All parts there except for a few bolts that will cost $4-5 at home depot to replace so I'm not filing a claim and going through all the hassle, but UPS will get a call today. 2nd box in a week with damage. 1st was the broken column parts and now this.

Always glad to have parts show up, but man it sucks to walk out and see a box in this shape.

[TJ's Chevy]

UPS is nothing but a bunch of overcharging idiots. They charge almost twice as much as fedex for longer shipping time and to damage your packaging. But at least you got your kit an its fitting good. If you had lost some parts though I'd still file a complaint against them. Time to start changing some of this carelessness.