Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! - Page 37 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**kev2809** · 12-20-2022, 08:48 PM

well, when I cycle the key on, then back off, it's sitting a little bit before the C. so it seems right. I need to fix my cooling issue I guess before dialing in the gauge. IF the torque lite is right, today it was reading about 195 and stayed there.. but the gauge was in the red. I'm having a hard time getting air out the engine.. I think.

today I got it up to temp and began squeezing the upper and lower hoses with the cap off to see if the air will purge. this time the upper hose finally started getting warm, but the lower stayed cold. the coolant inside the radiator was also cold. but the drive side tank of the radiator was really hot, passenger side was cold. it's odd.

this past weekend I put a new water pump and 187 degree thermo stat (old pump was leaking from the bearing). hopefully will have time to play with it tomorrow and try a different method of getting air out of the engine

**kev2809** · 12-20-2022, 08:52 PM

also, does the top radiator hose have to be perfectly level? I felt like it didn't start getting warm until I pushed it back and kinda down. the passenger side of the hose was hot but the driver side wasn't... if you go back to page 36 post #888 you can see a picture of how it sits on the shroud

after I was squeezing it and pushing it down I felt like that's when the entire hose started getting warm

oh, also, I have my overflow hose just pointing down and running into nothing. should I make an overflow bottle for it to run to?

**kev2809** · 12-23-2022, 07:16 PM

so, I drained out all the coolant. pulled the upper hose, filled the water pump til it topped off. put the hose back on. filled the radiator. ran the truck with the cap off and it tops out at about 197 and holds. truck gauge reads almost all the way hot. my issue is still the same. upper hose does get warm, but lower hoses is cold. driver side tank is warm, passenger side cold... like the t stat isnt opening to allow coolant to flow THROUGH the radiator. truck doesn't over heat at all but I feel even at 197 the stat isnt opening. the thermostat is a new 187 degree stat. this is all driveway no open road testing. but my 2002 avalanche with a 5.3 gets to just at 210 no matter if it's sitting there or driving on the highway.

**LockDoc** · 12-23-2022, 11:27 PM

-
If you have a meat thermometer run it with the cap off and check the antifreeze temperature when it gets up to operating temperature. If you don't think it is getting hot enough to open the thermostat put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator.

LockDoc

**kev2809** · 12-24-2022, 07:21 AM

I stuck my finger in the radiator and it's cold. that's a great idea on the cardboard idea!

**LockDoc** · 12-24-2022, 12:18 PM

-
See if this thread has any info you can use....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=513897

LockDoc

**HO455** · 12-24-2022, 04:33 PM

Judging from the gauge being around the "C" mark and then reading just below HOT when the truck isn't running hot I would say there is an issue with the guage.
When you said you used a stock sender was it a stock sender for the truck as opposed to stock for the engine. The guage requires a specific sender to be accurate.

These threads may help you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587190

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=726700

**kev2809** · 01-11-2023, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HO455

Judging from the gauge being around the "C" mark and then reading just below HOT when the truck isn't running hot I would say there is an issue with the guage.
When you said you used a stock sender was it a stock sender for the truck as opposed to stock for the engine. The guage requires a specific sender to be accurate.

These threads may help you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587190

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=726700

followed one of them links and they posted a temp sender part number. i tried that one and it seems i had the wrong one (rock auto

) warmed it up today and this is where the needled sat, with a cheap thermo gun pointed at the pump it read about 190 ish

thank you!

**HO455** · 01-14-2023, 12:17 PM

You're welcome! Glad to see more progress.

**kev2809** · 12-24-2022, 07:15 PM

thanks I just ordered up the part number in that thread, hope it corrects the stock gauge. I tried to run the truck up to temp today with cardboard blocking the radiator... but it still didn't get passed 197. I did notice the coolant in the radiator got warm after a while, but the lower hoses never got warm at all. I'm thinking maybe I need to get it on the road and see what happens, or switch to a 160 degree thermo stat

**kev2809** · 12-26-2022, 11:47 PM

not much done today while waiting on a few things to come in. added 2 gallons of trans fluid, will top it off when I start it up the next time. need to add some brake fluid and bleed the brakes. I pulled the rear diff cover and damn that oil was dark and ugly. letting it drain over night and will get that back put together with some new gear oil. oh, also ordered up a 2.5" exhaust pipe kit with flowmaster flowfx mufflers. going to try my hand at making an exhaust

anyone wanna take a guess at what gear ratio it is? all I know is it's a 12 bolt..

C130Nav · 01-09-2023, 08:55 AM

There should be a couple of 2 digit numbers stamped on the outer edge of the ring gear. 1st should be a "3X" or "4X" followed by a "1X".

Eg; a 4:10 ratio would be like "41 10"
a 3.42 ratio would be like "38 11"

**LockDoc** · 01-09-2023, 11:59 AM

-
Check post #2 in this thread. There is a ratio chart there.

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=578793

LockDoc

**kev2809** · 01-08-2023, 07:19 PM

well, got a lot of stuff done lately. have all the fluids topped off and ready. had to order a trans crossmember for the exhaust to clear. got the exhaust welded up and in, although it's not how I wanted to run it. couldn't get any clearance after the TA crossmember so I had to dump them right after. waiting on the e brake rebuild stuff to come in, and need to tackle the front air bag fitting swap. pulling the PTC and putting in compression.

tried to start it up after the exhaust and it runs like crap and shuts off. I did leave the o2 sensors in while welding the exhaust, maybe I fried them? no idea what else it could be... only thing different from last start up to now is the exhaust. I was probably an inch or less away from the sensor where I welded.

**kev2809** · 01-10-2023, 09:28 PM

damn, slapped the cover back on right after that picture lol. oh well.

swapped new o2 sensors and same issue. while it was running I unplugged the MAF and it ran great. plugged it back in and still ran great. idk if it's the sensor going bad, but I took the battery disconnect off. I feel like maybe the constant disconnect is messing with the computer. just throwing ideas out there, who knows

**LockDoc** · 01-11-2023, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kev2809

damn, slapped the cover back on right after that picture lol. oh well.

swapped new o2 sensors and same issue. while it was running I unplugged the MAF and it ran great. plugged it back in and still ran great. idk if it's the sensor going bad, but I took the battery disconnect off. I feel like maybe the constant disconnect is messing with the computer. just throwing ideas out there, who knows

I have a disconnect on my '03 Chevy Suburban. I have to use it all the time and so far no problems with it. I suspect it has to do a re-learn each time but I haven't noticed any abnormal operation. You might try some electrical contact cleaner on the MAF connector.

LockDoc

**kev2809** · 01-11-2023, 08:39 AM

I have one on my 02 sierra because I think it has a battery drain somewhere. but I would feel like it wouldn't idle right when I would disconnect it daily. now it idles fine with the disconnect but now the damn thing dies every now and then lol

problems...

**kev2809** · 01-18-2023, 07:45 PM

well, finally got some stuff buttoned up. had to redo the passenger side exhaust. finished up the e brake install, that was interesting with the exhaust all up in the way. i moved it for the first time in like 8 or 9 years i think it was. got some bugs though before i try to move it around the block. brake pedal SLOWLY comes back up after pressing it..need that figured out. the start up on it has been very odd, but after numerous crank and runs it finally stayed on and ran normal. i will try again tomorrow to see how it cranks and stays on.

im super excited because i think FINALLY i might be able to make the local car show this year in june....well see though.

**kev2809** · 01-18-2023, 07:55 PM

I did want to describe the engine running problem, maybe it's normal? so.. I never had any issues with the trucking turning on and running before I did the exhaust.

truck starts.. after a few cranks... runs a little rough, sputters for a few seconds dies. it did this over and over.. maybe and 10-12 times. periodically I would press the pedal and rev it it some. some times it would stay running, sometimes the pedal pressing would kill it. unplugged MAF, plugged in, no change either way... still dies.

I got frustrated, disconnected ground on the battery, pulled intake and MAF. cleaned MAF with cleaner, cleaned throttle body a little with cleaner. installed everything back and same results. on about the 3rd crank after this, I constantly kept reving the truck with the pedal, about 2000 rpm, up and down. finally it stayed running and idled great.

**LockDoc** · 01-18-2023, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kev2809

I did want to describe the engine running problem, maybe it's normal? so.. I never had any issues with the trucking turning on and running before I did the exhaust.

truck starts.. after a few cranks... runs a little rough, sputters for a few seconds dies. it did this over and over.. maybe and 10-12 times. periodically I would press the pedal and rev it it some. some times it would stay running, sometimes the pedal pressing would kill it. unplugged MAF, plugged in, no change either way... still dies.

I got frustrated, disconnected ground on the battery, pulled intake and MAF. cleaned MAF with cleaner, cleaned throttle body a little with cleaner. installed everything back and same results. on about the 3rd crank after this, I constantly kept reving the truck with the pedal, about 2000 rpm, up and down. finally it stayed running and idled great.

I wonder if it could be a bad 02 sensor or maybe carboned up a little, or connector not plugged in all the way? Hopefully after you run it a little more it will straighten itself out.....

On the brake issue, it sounds like your return spring is either broken or missing. One end of it fastens in a bracket right by the brake light switch and the other end fastens up by the firewall. It will be white or blue in color. Don't pay any attention to the labels.

LockDoc

**kev2809** · 01-18-2023, 10:36 PM

hey Leon... I bought new o2 sensors last week and put them in, same issue... I'll check the plugs. I cranked it again about an hour after shut down and it started right up.

I checked the spring last week and it's there for sure.... wonder if it could be worn out. is it a common issue?

**LockDoc** · 01-19-2023, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kev2809

hey Leon... I bought new o2 sensors last week and put them in, same issue... I'll check the plugs. I cranked it again about an hour after shut down and it started right up.

I checked the spring last week and it's there for sure.... wonder if it could be worn out. is it a common issue?

Good deal on the startup. That is a good sign.....

I don't think you are going to ever wear that spring out. It is tough. I have seen them break though, that is why I asked.

I found this post by Accelo:

Quote:

Your Pedal check valves are damaged. Power brake sluggish return is almost always the relief valve built into the sealing ring at the plunger input failing to let in fresh air and you're fighting a vacuum from the other side. It allows the diaphragm spring to overcome the engine vacuum and return the brake pedal to the normal position. In all likelihood you will need to replace or rebuild the booster.

Another thing you can try is to unhook the vacuum line to the booster (plug the manifold side) and see what the pedal does.

LockDoc

**kev2809** · 01-19-2023, 11:39 PM

ran it for a bit today and it finally showed a code. p0102, which is low voltage from the MAF. going to try and see what I can read on that one, other than just buying a new one and hope it fixes it.

I went back and forth in the yard a little stopping and going and noticed the pedal was a little erratic. it press real easy sometimes, sometimes it wouldn't. if I pumped them a lot it would return like normal, and sometimes not.... and of course the slow return was still there. I tried adjusting the rod nut on the pedal but no change.

the booster is new... but from about 8-10 years ago. it sat for a while and rusted up. when I pulled it off last year I just repainted it and bought another master cylinder. so who knows, maybe the booster is leaking on the inside

I did unhook the vac hose on the booster while it was running and started stumbling and wanted to turn off... so I just hooked it back up

**LockDoc** · 01-20-2023, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kev2809

I did unhook the vac hose on the booster while it was running and started stumbling and wanted to turn off... so I just hooked it back up

That is why I mentioned in my post above to plug the manifold side of the line...

LockDoc

**kev2809** · 01-20-2023, 07:39 AM

oops haha I'll see if I have something to plug it. what "should" the pedal do with no vaccume? return like it should?

I was thinking of buying those cheapo harbor freight vaccume testers and see if I could test the booster on the truck

12-20-2022, 08:48 PM	#1
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! well, when I cycle the key on, then back off, it's sitting a little bit before the C. so it seems right. I need to fix my cooling issue I guess before dialing in the gauge. IF the torque lite is right, today it was reading about 195 and stayed there.. but the gauge was in the red. I'm having a hard time getting air out the engine.. I think. today I got it up to temp and began squeezing the upper and lower hoses with the cap off to see if the air will purge. this time the upper hose finally started getting warm, but the lower stayed cold. the coolant inside the radiator was also cold. but the drive side tank of the radiator was really hot, passenger side was cold. it's odd. this past weekend I put a new water pump and 187 degree thermo stat (old pump was leaking from the bearing). hopefully will have time to play with it tomorrow and try a different method of getting air out of the engine __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

12-23-2022, 07:16 PM	#3
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! so, I drained out all the coolant. pulled the upper hose, filled the water pump til it topped off. put the hose back on. filled the radiator. ran the truck with the cap off and it tops out at about 197 and holds. truck gauge reads almost all the way hot. my issue is still the same. upper hose does get warm, but lower hoses is cold. driver side tank is warm, passenger side cold... like the t stat isnt opening to allow coolant to flow THROUGH the radiator. truck doesn't over heat at all but I feel even at 197 the stat isnt opening. the thermostat is a new 187 degree stat. this is all driveway no open road testing. but my 2002 avalanche with a 5.3 gets to just at 210 no matter if it's sitting there or driving on the highway. __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

12-23-2022, 11:27 PM	#4
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,632	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! - If you have a meat thermometer run it with the cap off and check the antifreeze temperature when it gets up to operating temperature. If you don't think it is getting hot enough to open the thermostat put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

12-24-2022, 07:21 AM	#5
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! I stuck my finger in the radiator and it's cold. that's a great idea on the cardboard idea! __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

12-24-2022, 12:18 PM	#6
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,632	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! - See if this thread has any info you can use.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=513897 LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

12-20-2022, 08:52 PM	#2
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! also, does the top radiator hose have to be perfectly level? I felt like it didn't start getting warm until I pushed it back and kinda down. the passenger side of the hose was hot but the driver side wasn't... if you go back to page 36 post #888 you can see a picture of how it sits on the shroud after I was squeezing it and pushing it down I felt like that's when the entire hose started getting warm oh, also, I have my overflow hose just pointing down and running into nothing. should I make an overflow bottle for it to run to? __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_] Last edited by kev2809; 12-20-2022 at 11:05 PM.

12-24-2022, 04:33 PM	#7
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 11,268	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! Judging from the gauge being around the "C" mark and then reading just below HOT when the truck isn't running hot I would say there is an issue with the guage. When you said you used a stock sender was it a stock sender for the truck as opposed to stock for the engine. The guage requires a specific sender to be accurate. These threads may help you. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587190 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=726700 __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

01-14-2023, 12:17 PM	#9
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 11,268	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! You're welcome! Glad to see more progress. __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

12-24-2022, 07:15 PM	#10
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! thanks I just ordered up the part number in that thread, hope it corrects the stock gauge. I tried to run the truck up to temp today with cardboard blocking the radiator... but it still didn't get passed 197. I did notice the coolant in the radiator got warm after a while, but the lower hoses never got warm at all. I'm thinking maybe I need to get it on the road and see what happens, or switch to a 160 degree thermo stat __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

12-26-2022, 11:47 PM	#11
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! not much done today while waiting on a few things to come in. added 2 gallons of trans fluid, will top it off when I start it up the next time. need to add some brake fluid and bleed the brakes. I pulled the rear diff cover and damn that oil was dark and ugly. letting it drain over night and will get that back put together with some new gear oil. oh, also ordered up a 2.5" exhaust pipe kit with flowmaster flowfx mufflers. going to try my hand at making an exhaust anyone wanna take a guess at what gear ratio it is? all I know is it's a 12 bolt.. Attached Images __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

01-09-2023, 08:55 AM	#12
C130Nav Registered User Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Little Rock Posts: 53	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! There should be a couple of 2 digit numbers stamped on the outer edge of the ring gear. 1st should be a "3X" or "4X" followed by a "1X". Eg; a 4:10 ratio would be like "41 10" a 3.42 ratio would be like "38 11"

01-09-2023, 11:59 AM	#13
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,632	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! - Check post #2 in this thread. There is a ratio chart there. https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...d.php?t=578793 LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

01-08-2023, 07:19 PM	#14
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! well, got a lot of stuff done lately. have all the fluids topped off and ready. had to order a trans crossmember for the exhaust to clear. got the exhaust welded up and in, although it's not how I wanted to run it. couldn't get any clearance after the TA crossmember so I had to dump them right after. waiting on the e brake rebuild stuff to come in, and need to tackle the front air bag fitting swap. pulling the PTC and putting in compression. tried to start it up after the exhaust and it runs like crap and shuts off. I did leave the o2 sensors in while welding the exhaust, maybe I fried them? no idea what else it could be... only thing different from last start up to now is the exhaust. I was probably an inch or less away from the sensor where I welded. __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

01-10-2023, 09:28 PM	#15
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! damn, slapped the cover back on right after that picture lol. oh well. swapped new o2 sensors and same issue. while it was running I unplugged the MAF and it ran great. plugged it back in and still ran great. idk if it's the sensor going bad, but I took the battery disconnect off. I feel like maybe the constant disconnect is messing with the computer. just throwing ideas out there, who knows __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

01-11-2023, 08:39 AM	#17
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! I have one on my 02 sierra because I think it has a battery drain somewhere. but I would feel like it wouldn't idle right when I would disconnect it daily. now it idles fine with the disconnect but now the damn thing dies every now and then lol problems... __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]



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01-18-2023, 07:45 PM	#18
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! well, finally got some stuff buttoned up. had to redo the passenger side exhaust. finished up the e brake install, that was interesting with the exhaust all up in the way. i moved it for the first time in like 8 or 9 years i think it was. got some bugs though before i try to move it around the block. brake pedal SLOWLY comes back up after pressing it..need that figured out. the start up on it has been very odd, but after numerous crank and runs it finally stayed on and ran normal. i will try again tomorrow to see how it cranks and stays on. im super excited because i think FINALLY i might be able to make the local car show this year in june....well see though. Attached Images __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

01-18-2023, 07:55 PM	#19
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! I did want to describe the engine running problem, maybe it's normal? so.. I never had any issues with the trucking turning on and running before I did the exhaust. truck starts.. after a few cranks... runs a little rough, sputters for a few seconds dies. it did this over and over.. maybe and 10-12 times. periodically I would press the pedal and rev it it some. some times it would stay running, sometimes the pedal pressing would kill it. unplugged MAF, plugged in, no change either way... still dies. I got frustrated, disconnected ground on the battery, pulled intake and MAF. cleaned MAF with cleaner, cleaned throttle body a little with cleaner. installed everything back and same results. on about the 3rd crank after this, I constantly kept reving the truck with the pedal, about 2000 rpm, up and down. finally it stayed running and idled great. __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

01-18-2023, 10:36 PM	#21
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! hey Leon... I bought new o2 sensors last week and put them in, same issue... I'll check the plugs. I cranked it again about an hour after shut down and it started right up. I checked the spring last week and it's there for sure.... wonder if it could be worn out. is it a common issue? __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

01-19-2023, 11:39 PM	#23
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! ran it for a bit today and it finally showed a code. p0102, which is low voltage from the MAF. going to try and see what I can read on that one, other than just buying a new one and hope it fixes it. I went back and forth in the yard a little stopping and going and noticed the pedal was a little erratic. it press real easy sometimes, sometimes it wouldn't. if I pumped them a lot it would return like normal, and sometimes not.... and of course the slow return was still there. I tried adjusting the rod nut on the pedal but no change. the booster is new... but from about 8-10 years ago. it sat for a while and rusted up. when I pulled it off last year I just repainted it and bought another master cylinder. so who knows, maybe the booster is leaking on the inside I did unhook the vac hose on the booster while it was running and started stumbling and wanted to turn off... so I just hooked it back up __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_] Last edited by kev2809; 01-19-2023 at 11:57 PM.

01-20-2023, 07:39 AM	#25
kev2809 low n' slo Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: rosenberg, texas Posts: 5,172	Re: Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!! oops haha I'll see if I have something to plug it. what "should" the pedal do with no vaccume? return like it should? I was thinking of buying those cheapo harbor freight vaccume testers and see if I could test the booster on the truck __________________ 67 1/2 ton Suburban - Project DRGNWGN. Build thread -_--_--_ _________ _--_-_ -/____\|__\|__\__ ,.,,,.,.,,.,\|_O _______ O_]

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