1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[Elder Rogue]

In my younger days we would find a shot/dead/bad small block just to set in the frame so we could trial fit things like exhausts, steering etc. At one time a company make plastic versions with threaded inserts so you could bolt heads, manifolds etc...

[Advanced Design]

I really like the table you created!

You have done a tremendous amount in a short time. Looking good.

[Iplumb]

Looking real good Coach.
I hear you on the way - too long projects w/ my short attention span!

I looked into the plastic mock up block for my sons truck. Way too much cash for me.
I bought a used / supposed to run 350 sbc on Craigslist for $100 - then sold it when done for the $100 back. Worked perfect.

Mike

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Iplumb

Looking real good Coach.
I hear you on the way - too long projects w/ my short attention span!

I looked into the plastic mock up block for my sons truck. Way too much cash for me.
I bought a used / supposed to run 350 sbc on Craigslist for $100 - then sold it when done for the $100 back. Worked perfect.

Mike

I REALLY struggle at times. Ok I need to put this motor in........look SQUIRREL.........

[solidaxel]

Looks like you are committed!

[Elder Rogue]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Looks like you are committed!

^^+One

Pass the "Point of no return".

[Coach529]

yea.....no turning back at this point.....

[lower50's]

Progress looks great, neat wiring is very gratifying. I work hard on the truck then skip to a small project for a few days then back to the truck. Keep it up good luck with the steering.

[Coach529]

Not much new to report. Waiting on my rear knuckles to come back from the machinest and some fab parts from my local fab shop. Those parts should allow me to be back to a roller and finish air ride install.

Picked up a set of reworked heads from a local auto repair shop that had done some work for me in the past.

They are 601 heads totally reworked. Deshrouded, fully ported, SS valves, whole nine yards. Price was right so I snagged them. Should wake up the SBC a bit.

[Coach529]

Finally got my parts from my local fab guy. He works cheap.....and the quality is top notch, but speed is not his forte.

The parts allowed me to complete my dehumping of the stock S-10 lower control arms. Got one done last night. Pretty straight forward project.





After these are done I can mock up the front bags and make my upper bag cup.

I received my tracking number for my rear knuckles. Scheduled to arrive Friday. With any luck I will be back to a roller this weekend!!

1. Finish LCA's
2. mockup front bags
3. install rear knuckles
4. install rear bags
5. Temp air lines for air ride!!!
6. install SBC and mock up Rack and Pinion
7. SBC back out, install heads, paint etc!!

[Elder Rogue]

Originally Posted by Coach529

[*]mock up Rack and Pinion[/LIST]

This is the one I am waiting for.

[99 to Life]

looks good. The ol' dehumping trick. You may have seen a write up over on the s10 forum about it. My friend did one over there, very informative. I must say, I'm surprised you didn't do these yourself. You have the skill.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

looks good. The ol' dehumping trick. You may have seen a write up over on the s10 forum about it. My friend did one over there, very informative. I must say, I'm surprised you didn't do these yourself. You have the skill.

My fab guy cut all the parts on his plasma table but I did the dehumping on the LCA's. Pretty easy. Should get the other side done tonight!!

[Advanced Design]

That is some nice looking work Coach!

[xpickup]

Coach529, lower control arm looks great. I like the irs. That unit looks like it is a nice one to install rather than the corvette units. It has a nice subframe to fit into the frame. Looking great.

Shannon

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by xpickup

Coach529, lower control arm looks great. I like the irs. That unit looks like it is a nice one to install rather than the corvette units. It has a nice subframe to fit into the frame. Looking great.

Shannon

Thanks man. Learning as I go!!

[Coach529]

Spent a couple hours in the shop. I almost got the drivers side LCA done.

While waiting for the welds to cool I started mocking up the passenger side bag. Went together pretty easy so far.

The way the Danforth crossmember is made, I did not really need a cup to support the bag at the top. Just a plate.











Not sure how I am going to my air lines yet. The center of the spring cup has a small tube in it to hold a coil spring. Somehow I need to either remove all of it or some of it. You can see it in the picture below.

[Fountain]

Yeah!!!! This is what I have been waiting for...I was curious what you were going to do with the little cup on the inside. I will wait for you to figure it out and then shamelessly steal your idea! haha. Looking good.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

That is some nice looking work Coach!

Thanks!!

[99 to Life]

looking great, like this was all meant to be! the crossroads you are at well... sux but can be dealt with. A plasma would make it much easier to get to from underneath. Either way that or a small air tool with cut off disc might get under there. I'd opt for some speedway tubular uppers ($100 can beat that), then drill a hold in the upper tower and try and fee the line in the center of the control arm. Not sure if you'd have enough clearance with those arms. Keep in mind when the engine is in there, you're headers will be right in that area too, so you may consider some braided line in that area.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

looking great, like this was all meant to be! the crossroads you are at well... sux but can be dealt with. A plasma would make it much easier to get to from underneath. Either way that or a small air tool with cut off disc might get under there. I'd opt for some speedway tubular uppers ($100 can beat that), then drill a hold in the upper tower and try and fee the line in the center of the control arm. Not sure if you'd have enough clearance with those arms. Keep in mind when the engine is in there, you're headers will be right in that area too, so you may consider some braided line in that area.

I was actually thinking of using a 90D fitting and coming out the side of the spring cup with the air line.

[Elder Rogue]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

I'd opt for some speedway tubular uppers ($100 can beat that),

I was looking at the speedway uppers until I read this on the speedway site;these a arms are a steel on steel pivot and you will notice that they are somewhat noisy and transfer a lot of vibration into the car as compared to a typical street tubular control arm. Also due to the fact that they are steel on steel they will wear out and need to be replaced fairly frequently.

Since I want a daily driver when finished, I am reconsidering these as a choice.

Just my 0.02 worth.

[99 to Life]

that may work too, just have to make sure the Aarm isn't going to hit it.

[99 to Life]

I have about 1k miles on mine and smooth as can be. You should grease them every few thousand miles. tons of s10 guys run them. They are a needle bearing design, nothing different from a wheel bearing really. If you have the money to spend 3-4's time as much right off the gate, I'd say yah go that route, get some poly bushed uppers.

[Coach529]

Super busy day.

We now have a roller. Such a great feeling.

My Knuckles showed up from IRS Machining today. They look great!! That allowed me to assemble the rear suspension.



I am about 1/2" to 3/4" higher in the rear than during mockup, which I found out to be the difference in the stock T-bird wheels and my Cragars and WW. Looks like I could easily take 3/4" out of my lower cups to get lower. Now sure if I will or not. The only part that really bothers me is the running boards are not parallel with the ground at air out. Kind of a pet peeve of mine. The back either needs to come down, or I need a bumpstop to raise the front 1/2" at air out.



The front is all loose mocked up. Just enough to roll.