Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by tsnow678

I like the headlights! Do you have to run a relay or will the factory wiring suffice? Your truck is coming together fast and its sweet!!!

I know its not a requirement, but it should be. Adding the relays is very easy and the light difference is pretty significant.

[wrwelton]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I did ok labeling most things, but I still had problems because I had my Jimmy build going simultaneously and had parted out a few trucks in between. I had boxes of parts all over. What I did recently was start going through all the boxes of parts and baggied them with labels. Sorting what I need for each vehicle and got rid of the rest. It's usually not that hard to figure out what goes where (If you get stuck you can always post a question on the board and someone will help). Then all the baggied bolts went into a single box or taped to the part it holds on.

I was about to put gas tank in truck today and realized it had a couple of holes in it. It looks like a beautiful tank but oh well time to fix it. I wonder why they never painted the gas tanks from the factory?

[hgs_notes]

Been a while since I updated here. Mostly been working on the Jimmy, but spring is coming and I want to work on finishing up some of my loose threads on this one. I ordered some Als Liner for the bed and just received a pair of these from Summit.


2.5" mandrel bent stainless universal tailpipes. I really have no idea yet how they will fit, but at just over $50 each and free shipping it was worth it just to get prebent stainless tubing. I decided that I would try welding up the exhaust system myself. I have a Pypes universal cross pipe on it now with some flowmasters hanging on that I have used just for driving around on. I know I need to modify that to fit the way I want, then get the tailpipes situated, then I can determine what I'll need to connect the front to the back pipes to finish it up.

So there should be more progress posted here in the next month or so. Sure wish I had a lift right now. Jack stands will have to do.

[lyrikz]

You have a tig welder? I dont think you can mig weld stainless. At least i couldnt.

[hgs_notes]

Stainless will weld in a MIG welder. In fact the Pypes kit instructions had that method listed in them. As a back up plan I know a couple guys with TIG welders. Back in the day I was qualified to do nuclear pipe on stainless, inconel, monel, and a few other alloys using TIG or SMAW (stick on steel pipe only). I once qualified as an ASME TIG welder for a code shop I was inspecting for. There's not much I haven't tried for welding methods myself, just didn't make a living at it so I don't have the 1000's of hours experience. I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing, just not as pretty as the guys that do it all the time.

That being said, I will have a TIG welder someday. Just haven't found one I want that I can afford yet.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Stainless will weld with steel wire in a MIG welder. In fact the Pypes kit instructions had that method listed in them. As a back up plan I know a couple guys with TIG welders. Back in the day I was qualified to do nuclear pipe on stainless, inconel, monel, and a few other alloys using TIG or SMAW (stick on steel pipe only). I once qualified as an ASME TIG welder for a code shop I was inspecting for. There's not much I haven't tried for welding methods myself, just didn't make a living at it so I don't have the 1000's of hours experience. I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing, just not as pretty as the guys that do it all the time.

That being said, I will have a TIG welder someday. Just haven't found one I want that I can afford yet.

SWEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!! So, i just needed to change to steel wire instead of the cooper color stuff im using and i can weld stainless with my mig?? Cool beans.

[hgs_notes]

Found this on the Miller site.

GMAW Electrode and Shielding Gas Selection

For welding 304 stainless steel, ER308, ER308L and ER308LSI wires are compatible. Use a "tri-mix" shielding gas consisting of 90 percent helium/8 percent argon/2 percent CO2. Note: Do not attempt to weld thin metal with flux cored wires. These wires use more heat because they require globular transfer. Unlike short arc, where the weld puddle cools every time the wire touches the base metal, the arc remains "on" constantly with globular transfer.

I'll definitely post what adjustments I have to do on mine when I give it a try. If I fail, I'll post that too. I'm not too proud to hide my warts.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

For welding 304 stainless steel, ER308, ER308L and ER308LSI wires are compatible. For welding 316L stainless, you need a 316L wire. Use a "tri-mix" shielding gas consisting of 90 percent helium/8 percent argon/2 percent CO2. Note: Do not attempt to weld thin metal with flux cored wires. These wires use more heat because they require globular transfer. Unlike short arc, where the weld puddle cools every time the wire touches the base metal, the arc remains "on" constantly with globular transfer.

I'll definitely post what adjustments I have to do on mine when I give it a try. If I fail, I'll post that too. I'm not too proud to hide my warts.

Ok, maybe the piece of stainless i was useing was 316L cause it wouldnt weld. IM using the 75-25 mix so that could be an issue to. I dont do anything with stainless really. I was just thinking i was helping you out. ahaha I didnt know you were a welding ninja.

Im happy i can do stainless now with some mild adjustments.

[hgs_notes]

The thing is, it can be done using the basic mild steel set up for a small job that is not critical, but there are better methods. I'll buy a small spool of stainless wire and maybe rent a small bottle of tri-mix gas. I looked for stainless wire locally but had no luck. Friday I'll be in Minneapolis and can go to a real weld supply store that should have it in stock.

[hgs_notes]

Did a little research, talked to the local welding supply store and he said I should be able to get a good weld using the 75/25 mix I have now and a .030 stainless wire. He said if it was for show car and it was butt welds then the tri-mix would be the way to go. He also said the main problem using the steel wire is that the wire tends to melt too fast and that by the time you get a puddle going in the stainless base metal it can blow through, but that I might be able to put the arc over the outer layer of the joint and use that as part of the fill metal since most of the welding will be slip fit joints rather than butt welds. I think I'll just pick up the stainless wire, use my current gas mix and try it out on a small piece. The problem for me and getting tri-mix is that they only carry the large bottles of it, which I can't afford and is not worth the cost for a small job like this.

[hgs_notes]

Just ordered some stainless weld wire through amazon because it was quite a bit cheaper than what I can get locally and both places I called were out of stock anyway. Also ordered my headlight conversion kit from there and an electric fan control for my Jimmy. If you didn't know already, amazon carries a ton of car parts and tools and the prices are either competitive with or flat out cheaper than any online retailer.

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

Just ordered some stainless weld wire through amazon because it was quite a bit cheaper than what I can get locally and both places I called were out of stock anyway. Also ordered my headlight conversion kit from there and an electric fan control for my Jimmy. If you didn't know already, amazon carries a ton of car parts and tools and the prices are either competitive with or flat out cheaper than any online retailer.

Fan control??? What did you get??

[hgs_notes]

I ordered a Hayden Automotive 3652 Preset Thermostatic Fan Control from amazon, on sale right now for about $22 bucks.
Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 3652 Preset...

[lyrikz]

Originally Posted by hgs_notes

I ordered a Hayden Automotive 3652 Preset Thermostatic Fan Control from amazon, on sale right now for about $22 bucks.
Amazon.com: Hayden Automotive 3652 Preset Thermostatic Fan Control: Automotive

Ahh gotcha. I have dual electric fans that are wired to a switch in the intake manifold. When it hits 195 the fans turn on, when it cools down the fans turn off. I was wondering if i should get something that will have them maybe run at 1/2 power at a certain temperature. No what i mean??

[hgs_notes]

Thre are dual set ups available that will turn on one fan and then the other at a higher temp. There are 2 speed fans also.

Last night I was going to take the truck for a little cruise. It was warm, sunny, wind had died off, so I uncovered it, got all the loose stuff out of the bed, wouldn't start. Battery was completely drained. I drove around christmas, then again a few weeks ago and had no problems. I used this procedure more or less and found that my starter was drawing about 6-7 amps and the EFI computer has a small draw also.
http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/B...teryDrain.html

Once I charged the battery again it started right up, but I need to either replace the starter or maybe the solenoid because something isn't right there. In the mean time I'm just going to pull a battery cable when it's parked until I fix it. It's another beautiful day though and I need to go for a drive.

[bundeber]

Took me a couple days to read through, but NICE build. I was never a fan of turquiose or aqua trucks, but I really like the color of your truck. I've never seen that shade, and with it being metallic too, I'm sure it's even nicer in person. Your truck is coming together really well. I grew up in MN, I don't think I'd be able to afford to build a truck if I lived that close to a Cabelas.

[hgs_notes]

My closest cabelas is 85 miles away. My outdoors recreation is mostly in the driveway anyhow. Thanks for checking out my build. The color is nicer in person and with the sun on it, but I understand not everyone is a fan. We were in Cody last summer and go through there sometimes on our way to Idaho, through Yellowstone. My wife is from there. We took the highway from the NE entrance and through Cody and it was a spectacular drive. Too steep and curvy for most of the big trucks and RV's so there wasn't much traffic. Can't wait to go back through there again. Where you from in Minny?

[bundeber]

That is a beautiful drive. I make it a point to take the motorcycle through there or Beartooth Pass each summer.

85 miles is close for those of us living in Wyoming. It's a long ways anywhere! I guess you get used to it after a while.

I grew up 30 miles south of Rochester in Chatfield. My dad has a shop there, he rebuilds engines and transmissions. So I guess being a greasemonkey is in my blood. I knew fractions before I knew how to read.

[hgs_notes]

SE MN is pretty also. Nice valleys and hills, the river bluffs, etc. Good trout fishing I've heard. Welcome to the build.

[hgs_notes]

Home for a day and a half, so I started prepping the bed for liner. I had a few loose ends there, like bolts that were not bolted, unground welds, etc. The 2 bed hold down bolts just behind the axle don't have a nut on them, so they are loose. I need to drop the gas tank so I can get my hand in there. Until that happens I figured I would just tack weld the carriage bolt head to the bed. I cleaned up some of the welds with a flapper wheel on the angle grinder. I decided to spray the gas cap with liner also to sort of camoflage it, so I used a wire wheel to scuff it and etch primered it. I used etch primer everywhere else I had some bare metal also. I started taping the edges.

Whats left is to scuff everything that will be sprayed, wipe it all down, mask off the rest of the truck, then spray. Not sure I'll get that far before I have to leave again or not.

[lyrikz]

Grab a big piece of cardboard and do a test spray. How you pull that trigger depends on teh texture you get. Full throttle you can lay it at almost flat. Light trigger you get that fine linex look to it. IT GOES EVERYWHERE ALSO. if you dont have a barrier around you it shoots about 20 feet. ahahah.

I have it on my garage walls in a few places. lol.

[hgs_notes]

Thanks for the tips. I planned on putting plastic everywhere but might just pull the truck out to the street during the actual spraying. I have some paper coveralls to put over my clothes.

[hgs_notes]

I sprayed bed liner today and had mixed results. I'd like to blame the product, but the only complaints I have are 1) short pot life of 10-20 minutes and 2) the large container they provide to mix the product in is only good if you don't have any other additives. So in my case with having the rubber crumb to add there wasn't enough room in the container for everything. Having to scramble to grab another bucket or can to mix in and dumping it back and forth to get an even mix ended up in some frustration and kind of a mess. And 3) the primer/adhesion promoter supplied in the kit does not go very far. I barely had enough to spray the sides and tailgate. It's just a small squirt/spray bottle. The tip should be adjusted down to get a finer mist spray. I think next time I'll just use one of my regular spray guns for a better control of the spray.

The main problem I had was that I sprayed it too thick to start with, but changing tips on the sprayer with product in the bowl is a messy job. I ran into the house and grabbed a paint roller with one of those big spongy texture rolls. It actually worked real good for spreading this stuff around where I had it too thick. There was some uneven spreading of the rubber crumb texture though, that I'm not thrilled with.

I ended up running out of product so I did not have enough to do the tailgate or any touch up of spots I missed. Having to buy more doesn't bother me too much because I was going to use it on my jimmy also. Now that I know how far it will go with the thickness I want I know that I'll have to get 2 more kits to have enough to finish this and do the full tub of the jimmy from the firewall floor and back.

One positive was that the color turned out great. And I did get the bed done except for a few areas that will need touch up. If I had it to do over again I would not use the rubber crumb. It just complicated things and sprayed unevenly.

So I'll order some more. I'll mix a quart or so to do the tailgate and spot touch up. Then use the rest for the Jimmy. I really hope this info will help out some other people planning to use this product or others like it.

And now for some pics. First is just after the sanding and masking.


It's fairly heavy here but you can see the top edge needs touched up.


Front edge of the wheel tub needs more spray.


Overall not too bad though...

[VA72C10]

Color match looks great! Are you going to add the textured pieces to the next batch also? I'm assuming you'll leave them out on the Jimmy?

[hgs_notes]

Yeah I had some left over rubber that I'll use to try and even it up some then go over the rest without. I used it on this to camoflage my rust pits. The jimmy won't need that.
Posted via Mobile Device