Dug's 1959 Fleetside

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

autobody seam sealer is a quick drying sealer that accepts paint. some stuff comes in a caulking tube and some comes in a brushable style can.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

Like the link above Gotchya !

But do you sand it back for painting ? How hard is it almost looks like jbweld in the final part of video. Sand it back, fill over and around it, sand and then paint etc

[dsraven]

it isn't meant to sand over top. look at any newer vehicle and you will see the seam sealer. in some spots it is best to use a caulking tube and lay down a nice bead, like the silicone around a sink or a tub. you will see it but it will be painted over and will hold the paint unless it is in an area that flexes a lot.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

hey dugg, you out there man? did you give up on the truck or did you finish it up and just didn't post any more progress? hope all is well either way.

STILL HERE and all is well!!! Rather than move to Colorado, my wife decided we need to move to Orange Beach, AL. I'll build a fresh house with a 1,430 sf garage (heated and cooled) on our lot and move the entire operation down there. About an hour away. In addition to waiting for the bids on the house components to come in, I sold all the Schwinns, Honda Minibikes, my last rental house (yesterday) and actually moved the cab to the center of the garage to begin the paint work. We've had an especially rainy winter so every time I picked up the paint gun it was just too wet. Stay tuned!!

[dug224]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Evapo-rust is pretty neat. There is an ebay version that works just as well and is cheaper.
Bigger parts - electrolysis

When you say seam sealer - explain it to me - never done any paint really .....

like this ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KysXj_PfIAE

In my case, If I thought the seam sealer may be seen, I masked it off to give it a crisp look. Took some time but it did look a litter better than the stuff I put on freestyle. The freestyle stuff I did I used the caulk tube and simply smeared it into the panel joints with a rubber gloved finger. I let it cure then painted. No sanding this stuff. Once it all got covered with the Raptor coating, it looked like I knew what I was doing.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

it isn't meant to sand over top. look at any newer vehicle and you will see the seam sealer. in some spots it is best to use a caulking tube and lay down a nice bead, like the silicone around a sink or a tub. you will see it but it will be painted over and will hold the paint unless it is in an area that flexes a lot.

Ok. I havent done mach cab/sheetmetal work apart from some rust patches welded in. On the the seam of thefoor pan to the firewall I just used a good quality roof/flashing sealer - figured it was sheet metal exposed to outdoor - seemed like a good candiate.

Originally Posted by dug224

In my case, If I thought the seam sealer may be seen, I masked it off to give it a crisp look. Took some time but it did look a litter better than the stuff I put on freestyle. The freestyle stuff I did I used the caulk tube and simply smeared it into the panel joints with a rubber gloved finger. I let it cure then painted. No sanding this stuff. Once it all got covered with the Raptor coating, it looked like I knew what I was doing.

Good tips. It looks like a good product - I had heard it used a number of times but just nether bothered to ask. Thanks.

[dsraven]

wow dugg, you have been busy. if you are anything like me it will be an ordeal to move your existing garage over to a new one. hopefully you will have some overlap time so the new shop can be set up and ready to accept your "inventory" (lol) of things you have collected over the years. when I moved last time I had to chuck out a whack of stuff. not a hoarder (lol again) because it was all good stuff, right?
how big will the garage at the new place be, dimensionally, and will it be a tall one or a regular height one maybe? single door or double door? I have a 26x30 with 9'10" ceilings (bylaws suck) and 2 doors, that way when it is -30 outside I don't freeze the whole garage by opening a huge door. it is a bit fun to get into at times due to the alley width and no wiggle room there with the skinny doors. if doing it again I would put the shop into the yard another 4 ft so that would make the turn radius easier and no backing up most of the time, plus easier to negotiate a trailer into if need be. something to think about anyway. if you ever plan on having a hoist a single door works best so the hoist can be moved away from the outside walls. scissor trusses work well for that as well so the ceiling is taller in the middle of the room. I am sure you have that all thought out already though.
does it feel like a millenium has gone by since you had time to work on your old truck? gonna need it pretty soon by the sounds of it. post up a few pics when you get the paint applied, should look awesome.

[FAKKY]

dsraven/dug224 - Im moving in with you guys - be ready

1400sqft of garage !! Thats bigger than my house

[dsraven]

haha, it does seem like a big garage but I am sure it could still be filled up with stuff in relatively short order. for me anyway.
good on ya Doug.

[FAKKY]

[dug224]

Finally had time to make appreciable headway. I managed to finish prepping the inner fenders, inside of fenders, underside of the hood and cab. Sprayed the inside of the inner fenders and the inside of the fenders with the RAPTOR bedliner. Would have done the inside of the hood but I ran out. I then sprayed the Valspar (4431-19) Low Gloss Black Enamel Implement paint with hardner (#4625). Note that the hardner makes it a bit more glossy so if you are going for a more satin finish (which I was), may want to skip the hardner. Certainly different than spraying base coat/clear coat. Also used an inexpensive HVLP gun from Harbor Freight which I may replace with a real one before any more painting. I managed a decent finish and will be able to correct some of the mistakes and touch up the parts I missed when I have it all back together and I spray the entire truck. Cab goes back on the frame next followed by the front clip. I still have some bed fabrication to do but intend to do it after I get it back under power.

[dsraven]

awesome. how does the roof look with the shiny on it?

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

awesome. how does the roof look with the shiny on it?

Lets just say I erased evidence of the apparent dance party that happened on the roof probably back in the '70's. The shine helps point out a few spots I'll improve on before I do the final paint. I'd post a picture but you can't see the detail I talking about. After looking at all the perfect paint jobs our fellow truck guys on this site produce, it's been pretty hard on me NOT spend the 100's (maybe 1,000's in my case) of hours to get this truck straight.

Man, the enamel I sprayed is still slightly tacky. Reminds me of the olden days when we would paint our Schwinns and then have to wait a day before we reassembled. Many a time we put them back together still sticky. If I understood how long it would take the paint to dry, I probably would have left out the hardner since it is apparently what added the additional gloss. Definitely a different beast than I'm used to. I heard Keystone carries a urethane single stage. I may look into that to see if I can keep the shine to a minimum.

[dug224]

Definitely a 30 footer paint job. Looks pretty good in the photos. Here is a shot from last night after I pulled out all the paper I used to mask off the RAPTOR.


Here's an attempt to show the roof which is 93% better than it was before I started.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

dsraven/dug224 - Im moving in with you guys - be ready

1400sqft of garage !! Thats bigger than my house

Sounds like you did it right!! Keep the small house and build a bigger shop!!!

[dug224]

I'm counting this as progress. Untarped the frame, cleaned it and rolled it back into the garage.

[RockinKees]

Everything you do is a step forewards!
Cab and fenders are looking good!!

[dsraven]

yep, progress.
the roof looks pretty good in the pic, especially compared to the before shots. nice work!

[DoctorGlenn]

Maybe a bit off topic but for folks swapping a classic truck onto a TB/Enovy chassis are there more traditional wheels (16" preferably, 17" if I must) in the 6 on 5 bolt battern? Thinks like old Ansen Sprints (which I had on my '55 TF pickup in the '60s) or some of Rocket's wheels or even traditional looking stock steel wheels (without all the holes)? I'm thinking I might want to do the swap but I'm old and completely turned off by most of what I can find in the aftermarket. If nothing's available I could consider the wheels like Dug has which I assume are factory (RPO code?).

Many thanks,

- Glenn

[dug224]

Originally Posted by DoctorGlenn

Maybe a bit off topic but for folks swapping a classic truck onto a TB/Enovy chassis are there more traditional wheels (16" preferably, 17" if I must) in the 6 on 5 bolt battern? Thinks like old Ansen Sprints (which I had on my '55 TF pickup in the '60s) or some of Rocket's wheels or even traditional looking stock steel wheels (without all the holes)? I'm thinking I might want to do the swap but I'm old and completely turned off by most of what I can find in the aftermarket. If nothing's available I could consider the wheels like Dug has which I assume are factory (RPO code?).

Many thanks,

- Glenn

Glenn: I'm sure you can have steel wheels made but because of the TB track width, they won't be deep dished like the old days. One of our fellow truck guys did a body swap and used spare tire steel wheels (with all the holes) on all corners. He painted them orange and it looked fantastic. I would have done this had I seen it before I bought the factory wheels. I got mine off of eBay pretty cheap. Not sure what the RPO code is in light of the fact that it has been so long since I bought them. As you said, styles are limited. Of the styles I had to choose from, these appealed to me the most. May change in the future to steel wheels. dug

[dug224]

Cab is now on. Used the engine lift with 4 ratchet straps. The straps really help with fine adjustments to make cab level before lifting. To get the hoist all the way into the center of the cab, I had to lift the trailer a couple of inches by jacking up the axle. Since my lifting hooks are in the holes that mount the cab, I set the cab down in the proper location and then jacked up each side under the cab step and removed the hooks on each side and replaced with the mounting bolts.




Started placing all the bits and pieces back in the cab to see what I need to do first. Looks like the pedal/steering assembly will be next on the list.

[dsraven]

wheels from the other TB swap with a 56. post 55. short thread. finished. sold. moved back home to the other side of the pond.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=653590&page=2

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

wheels from the other TB swap with a 56. post 55. short thread. finished. sold. moved back home to the other side of the pond.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=653590&page=2

Man, you're good. His quick build is still impressive. I had forgotten he used the baby moons.

[dug224]

Truck body part reassembly has come to a stop while we do some much needed wiring. Cutting access holes, pulling wire and getting it tucked in to the wire loom. Panel is mounted behind driver seat. Utilizing the column, brake pedal, drive by wire gas pedal, headlight control module, shifter and other components from the Trailblazer/Envoy so we are having to do a lot of figuring out of the factory circuitry. I need to get my budget minded gauges ordered. Do any of you have any strong opinions about the Dolphin line of gauges?




This electrical panel is a perfect example of what you get when two mechanical engineers do wiring.

[dsraven]

haha, thats too funny.
looks awesome.
did you miss a crimp there? that blue connector?
is that screw torqued,that little one?

kidding. that would probably make you stay awake at night. it would for me, lol. not an engineer but once a perfectionist always a perfectionist. thats a quote from my wife. about me. I don't get it.

[dug224]

Originally Posted by dsraven

haha, thats too funny.
looks awesome.
did you miss a crimp there? that blue connector?
is that screw torqued,that little one?

kidding. that would probably make you stay awake at night. it would for me, lol. not an engineer but once a perfectionist always a perfectionist. thats a quote from my wife. about me. I don't get it.

Ha! This is definitely where the details count and the where the "done is better than perfect" mantra cannot be applied.