198Plus build

[OLDIRON69]

Can you body wax the rust on the inside of the braces that you can't get to or shoot POR up in there?

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by OLDIRON69

Can you body wax the rust on the inside of the braces that you can't get to or shoot POR up in there?

My friend that owns a body shop for 35 years said he uses diesel fuel to spray the rust where he can't get to.

[198plus]

Your right, but since my grandfather bought it new and left it to my dad and then my Dad left it to me...........I'm just sayin

Originally Posted by Strodder

It might have been cheaper to find another parts truck, or cab. We're lucky here in California. Not too many rust buckets out here.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by 198plus

Your right, but since my grandfather bought it new and left it to my dad and then my Dad left it to me...........I'm just sayin

In that case, what ever it takes. I don't think Allan will hurt you much..

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 198plus

Your right, but since my grandfather bought it new and left it to my dad and then my Dad left it to me...........I'm just sayin

The only original piece of the truck is the cab, hood and frame I think.

[Alan's Classic]

Here is the left floor that has been replaced prior.

[MacAttack]

I see Alan has resorted to the Boring Electron Microscope for the last shot.

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by MacAttack

I see Alan has resorted to the Boring Electron Microscope for the last shot.

Yeah looks like it needs rings.

[198plus]

I'm finished with my new shop logo.......I think.....

[tiggamonsta]

The black box and then the black oval behind the text does not seem right. Does it not stand out enough without them? Maybe if they were both the same shape? Overall I like the concept & colors.

[Alan's Classic]

Looks saweet!! You gonna put that logo on the door of your old truck when it gets done?

[198plus]

Now that I look at it, you're right........Changes in the works

Originally Posted by tiggamonsta

The black box and then the black oval behind the text does not seem right. Does it not stand out enough without them? Maybe if they were both the same shape? Overall I like the concept & colors.

[198plus]

Thanks Allan.........Only thing going on my doors will be wax

Originally Posted by Alan's Classic

Looks saweet!! You gonna put that logo on the door of your old truck when it gets done?

[63sbssbbw]

Nice shot Alan
As we know,when the support rots out (and/or the floor) the small tube that surrounds the mounting bolt is usually rotted too.
That piece doesn't come with the replacement support nor the floor section.
Can you post up some dimensions on this tube,ie length, diameter and wall thickness,also I assume it's welded to the support?
I have never seen this part in any calalogs
Thanks
T

[Strodder]

Looks great. Have a magnet sign made so you can take it off your truck when you don't want it. Just use it when your parked in front of your shop. Should be an attention getter.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by 63sbssbbw

Nice shot Alan
As we know,when the support rots out (and/or the floor) the small tube that surrounds the mounting bolt is usually rotted too.
That piece doesn't come with the replacement support nor the floor section.
Can you post up some dimensions on this tube,ie length, diameter and wall thickness,also I assume it's welded to the support?
I have never seen this part in any calalogs
Thanks
T

I won't be able to post up any deminsions on the tube. My truck is all back together and I'm not going that far on Ronnie's. It's not welded to the cab support, but is welded to the front/back floor support as seen in the pic. Sorry I couldn't be much help.

More updates coming in just a few minutes...........

[Alan's Classic]

I advised Ronnie that we should go ahead and cut out the metal that had already been replaced. That was a good idea. Because the drivers side wasn't welded to the cab support.

Here it the driver side patch that was removed. Notice the spot welds, not good.



Here's the double floor on the drivers side.



Still something going on on the Left kick panel to fire wall.



Did some more digging and found this.





The passenger side was welded better.





I believe I got all the patch work out on the passenger side. The sand blaster might reveal something on the pinch weld. It is loaded with filler.



I ground some of the filler on the A post gutter. I knew there would be issues after seeing it covered up. They need to be drilled off and replaced. I have to look to see if they are available. Both side are the same.






More decisions to be made in the next post...........

[Alan's Classic]

Firewall decisions................Need to determine which holes to weld up. Here are some pics for Ronnie to edit and circle which ones he wants filled.

Rt side



Lt side



What about these extra holes somebody added?



I know the clutch rod goes thru one of these but what is the other? Maybe the speedometer cable goes in the smaller one.



Here are some of my recommendations. Double check me Ronnie.



Referrence pics of mine.

[198plus]

Well it's got to get better

[Alan's Classic]

Ronnie wanted the tar removed from the bottom of the cab. It's a good idea to remove this stuff before the blaster. The blaster won't remove it.

Before



Driver side after



Passenger side had more on it.

[daverod]

Firewall on your truck rocks.

[63sbssbbw]

Thank you Alan
I have my floor piece and support so shouldn't be too hard to get the right length.
as for wall thickness I'll just go overkill, 1"x .125w
T

[ConnDemned]

Originally Posted by 198plus

I'm finished with my new shop logo.......I think.....

Not to change this from a build thread to a graphic design thread, but I would suggest doing your logo in a vector based program in greyscale ( black & white tv ish) a program like illustrator or corel are probably the most commonly used. The reason for a vector image is they can be scaled up or down indefinatly without messing up clearity of the picture. Also wikth using no colors you can save money on print and get a clearer idea of how clean it is, readability and brand recognition are key to good logos. I know you won't put a b&w sign on the side of a building or anything but you can always have color added to a different image file. Also if you have a very well designed simple logo in b&w adding color is easy, I can't think of the universal inks at the moment, I want to say pms but it could be that time of the month around here is why that's what I believe it is. I don't mean to sound like your logo isn't good or anything just helping before you "waste" time on something that can't really be used easily and possibly cost more time and money. Ok back to truck building, good luck with the new business adveture and getting your truck going

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by daverod

Firewall on your truck rocks.

Thanks Dave!!

Originally Posted by 63sbssbbw

Thank you Alan
I have my floor piece and support so shouldn't be too hard to get the right length.
as for wall thickness I'll just go overkill, 1"x .125w
T

[198plus]

Parts on the way Alan Since there's nothing going on with my build thought I would share some pic's of my shops next few projects.

Our first total repaint.......More pic's when finished


Total restoration starting soon.






New shop bike



My office if I ever get done