S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

what Joedoh said. fabbing your own is usually WAY cheaper than buying, if you have the skillset needed

[GCarr]

Well... I'm definitely not a body guy or steel worker... but I always seem to get by. I was really more curious as to how big of a tunnel I would end up with. I have ordered the front floor section with a small tunnel. I figure if I have to raise it and/or widen it... that's what I'll have to work thru. The back floor section should be easy enough... even for me. Question... how much tunnel am I looking at with the frame to floor measurement being 4" in the front and 3.25" in the rear (top of frame to underside of the floor- not to the brace? My floor braces and cab corners are very solid... guess I dodged a bullet or 2 on them. Thank you ... for your help!

[joedoh]

the tunnel will depend on your motor mounts and where you put the motor fore/aft will impact it too. sorry, there is no perfect measurement.

mine always have very small tunnels, I am very careful with placement. although this latest cab was already carved up pretty well.

[GCarr]

Joedoh, thank you for the reply. I understand what your saying ... there are a lot of factors that all influence the out come and no short cuts to getting there. I will have to do some test fits and measurements. I believe that I would be happy with a small tunnel... just don't want one crazy big taking all the foot room. And this is certainly not a one size fits all type of thing. Previous measurements that I have read about cab placement did not match up for my build. Think I have an odd frame and/or truck... unless I got it all wrong.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by GCarr

Previous measurements that I have read about cab placement did not match up for my build. Think I have an odd frame and/or truck... unless I got it all wrong.

it looks like your front end is pointing down slightly, that line on the fender should be level with the cab. also remember that if you dont have any weight in the front yet, that the wheels will pull back slightly in the wheelwell because of the angle of the upper arms. both of thos things will improve your wheel centering.

it could just be the picture, its a bit dark. but when I brighten it up in my photo editor it looks like it.

the number one problem people have with the s10 swap is mounting the core support too low.

[GCarr]

Good call out... thank you for that. In that pic the motor/trans were sitting in the frame on the standard s10 mounts (not moved back) and the drop spindles were not installed. I am rebuilding the front end this weekend. I will mock it up again after that with the drop spindles installed. TY for the call out.

[joedoh]

if your hood is fitting weird or shutting hard, that could be it. it could be the angle of the picture too, so just a sanity check.

[gigamanx]

Gcarr, lots of good input here. I would suggest going through my build if you'd like to see a lower cab. I had lots of questions as I went and joedoh was able to answer. I chose to cut a transmission tunnel from my donor S10 for the shape and, as has already been said, there is no exact measurement. How about starting a build thread? Would be happy to share my experience as a novice.

[skymangs]

I have started a Go fund me to help buy tools lost in the fire. My boys are reopening the shop under my supervision and quality control. No reason I should let all this knowledge go to waste! https://www.gofundme.com/manage/help...customs-reopen

[lgh1157]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I have started a Go fund me to help buy tools lost in the fire. My boys are reopening the shop under my supervision and quality control. No reason I should let all this knowledge go to waste! https://www.gofundme.com/manage/help...customs-reopen

what happened ?

[skymangs]

Click the link to read the full story. You didn’t hear about the fire that took away my ability to ever turn a wrench?

[skymangs]

Sorry, this is the proper link https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-ole-...customs-reopen

[GCarr]

Well life has gotten in the way of my working on the truck. Life seems to be settling down and I hope to get some time in on the truck. I have rebuilt the front chassis, brakes and installed the drop spindles. I plan to mock the cab/front cap (with the motor/trans mounted) today to get a good look at the stance. That should give me the information needed to move forward. As much as I like reading build threads ... not much desire to create one. I have decided on a slightly modified way of mounting the cab. I will be happy to share the outcome if I feel it will be of any help to anyone. I do want to contribute, but feel the recipe for putting one of these trucks together has been well reviewed... thanks to everyone for that... especially to Skymangs for starting this thread. Very sorry for the cards life has dealt you. You are in my prayers and I will send a donation.

[skymangs]

I now have version 3 cab mounts, based on Cecil's dimensions. They are 1" shorter than my previous mounts and require welding the cross sills above the angle iron on the bedsides. $350/set. Same price as my other mounts.

[Auctioneerhere]

Originally Posted by skymangs

I now have version 3 cab mounts, based on Cecil's dimensions. They are 1" shorter than my previous mounts and require welding the cross sills above the angle iron on the bedsides. $350/set. Same price as my other mounts.

Link to what you are selling? Thanks

[skymangs]

sorry I now have version 1, 2, and 3 cab mounts for sale http://www.olesargecustoms.com/products.html
And if you’re curious about my website
www.olesargecustoms.com

[NorCalGal]

Is this measurement from the frame to bottom of the cab or is it from the frame to the top of the mount?

[Father&son56project]

I have been reading the S10 swap tips on this site for the past year, and have one (hopefully) simple question. There have been several references made to the “wheel base correctors” that make up part of the EZ-Chassis Swap kits, but my searches have come up dry for either a good description or pictures of these things. What exactly are these? I have a 118 inch wheel base that is going to have to be reduced to 116 inches, and am looking for a simple way to achieve this. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Stephan

[8man]

Stephan, I started in front cutting off the frame in front of the steering box and worked back putting the body mounts as close to the measured location as I could. In the end I had to cut off a little of the back of the frame to make it fit the bed, but the truck sits on the frame nicely.

[Father&son56project]

8man, the username that I have is from a ways back, when my son and I did a '56 Chev pickup. My current project is actually a '46 Fargo (I know, this is not a mopar site!), but 99% of my information on S10 swaps comes from here. Nothing else on the internet comes close to the information here, so this is where I do all my research. I need to shorten the wheel base of my S10 donor by about 2 inches to match the original Fargo wheel base, which is why I am asking for information on the "wheel base correctors".

Thanks!

Stephan

[ky_savage]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

8man, the username that I have is from a ways back, when my son and I did a '56 Chev pickup. My current project is actually a '46 Fargo (I know, this is not a mopar site!), but 99% of my information on S10 swaps comes from here. Nothing else on the internet comes close to the information here, so this is where I do all my research. I need to shorten the wheel base of my S10 donor by about 2 inches to match the original Fargo wheel base, which is why I am asking for information on the "wheel base correctors".

Thanks!

Stephan

A friend of mine took his leaf springs off and drilled a new hole for the pin and put it back together with everything lined up to the new pin location.

[OutlawDrifter]

The S10 frame itself will accommodate your needs. It is actually a front half and a rear half that slide together. Separate them, cut off your 2" and slide them back together, weld securely.

[NorCalGal]

Outlaw drifter is correct, I cut my frame and shortened it by cutting the factory weld on the frame just behind the transmission cross member.

[Father&son56project]

Thanks for the replies. I am aware of the frame shortening technique, but was curious to see if there is a far simpler way to slightly shorten the wheelbase of my donor frame. I am less than 2 inches from what I want, so that's why I was asking about the "wheelbase correctors" that I have read about (but never seen). If I have to cut that factory weld to shorten things up a tiny amount I will, but if there is a nice, quick, simple trick then I am game for that. I suspect that the wheelbase correctors are a play on Ky Savage's suggestion about relocating the spring pin (or the spring pin hole in the spring perches), so that's why I am asking if anybody can describe them or post a pic of them.

Thanks!

Stephan

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

I have been reading the S10 swap tips on this site for the past year, and have one (hopefully) simple question. There have been several references made to the “wheel base correctors” that make up part of the EZ-Chassis Swap kits, but my searches have come up dry for either a good description or pictures of these things. What exactly are these? I have a 118 inch wheel base that is going to have to be reduced to 116 inches, and am looking for a simple way to achieve this. Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Stephan

117" is the figure generally used for your wheels to look centered in the wheel well. I create my own lowering blocks. Use 2x2 Square tube, offset drill the block for the centering pins. S10 wb is 117.9 so you want your offset to be .9". This is all very well explained with pictures in my upcoming book, How to Build a 47-54 Chevy Truck oh an S10 Chassis.