Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

oops haha I'll see if I have something to plug it. what "should" the pedal do with no vaccume? return like it should?

I was thinking of buying those cheapo harbor freight vaccume testers and see if I could test the booster on the truck

Not sure if it will make a difference or not. I guess you could just press the brake pedal without the engine running and see how it returns. That should produce the same results because there would be no vacuum.....

Do you remember if the pedal moved freely before you bolted up the pedal to booster bellcrank rod?

LockDoc

[kev2809]

well with the truck off i can press the pedal down (it is stiffer than when the truck is on) and it returns normal. it only does it when its running, i bench bled the master cylinder, then i bled the truck twice. i mean, i guess it could still be air but idk.

i popped the hood today and noticed theres a leak between the master and booster. the master i bought here off the board brand new, believe it was old stock. im thinking maybe a new booster and master is something i might be buying......again

im wondering if ONLY the master cylinder leaking could be causing the slow pedal return...i just dont want to have to pull the master, replace it, bleed out the system...only to realize the booster was bad too lol

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

well with the truck off i can press the pedal down (it is stiffer than when the truck is on) and it returns normal. it only does it when its running, i bench bled the master cylinder, then i bled the truck twice. i mean, i guess it could still be air but idk.

i popped the hood today and noticed theres a leak between the master and booster. the master i bought here off the board brand new, believe it was old stock. im thinking maybe a new booster and master is something i might be buying......again

im wondering if ONLY the master cylinder leaking could be causing the slow pedal return...i just dont want to have to pull the master, replace it, bleed out the system...only to realize the booster was bad too lol

I don't think the master cylinder could cause that, and I don't think it's air in the system. I guess I would be leaning towards the booster. Do you have an old booster you can try? You can change the booster without disconnecting the brake lines. Just unbolt the master and pull it forward enough to unbolt and remove the booster.....

LockDoc

[kev2809]

i dont have an extra one. i dont mind buying a new one if thats what it is, but the leak in between the master cylinder and booster would also mean that the master cylinder would be bad, right? what im thinking is two seperate problems..the booster maybe damaged on the inside causing the poor pedal return, but master cylinder is also leaking where the booster push rod goes in..

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by kev2809

i dont have an extra one. i dont mind buying a new one if thats what it is, but the leak in between the master cylinder and booster would also mean that the master cylinder would be bad, right? what im thinking is two seperate problems..the booster maybe damaged on the inside causing the poor pedal return, but master cylinder is also leaking where the booster push rod goes in..

I agree. Leak into the booster from master may not be all the problem . The booster sitting unused for time might cause issues in my opinion.

[kev2809]

ya..and it was rusted up good. i hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned it up before painting it...but it probably sat in the truck unused nearly 10 years. im looking around now to see if i can find booster/master cylinder combo thats reasonable. stuff went way up since i bought these the first time..as has everything else

[kev2809]

went ahead and ordered a whole new booster/master cylinder/prop valve setup. says its specifically for a 67-72 c10 with front disc rear drums. hopefully that solves the brake pedal issue im having, it will solve the leaking master cylinder for sure at least lol

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1972-C..._redirect=true

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

went ahead and ordered a whole new booster/master cylinder/prop valve setup. says its specifically for a 67-72 c10 with front disc rear drums. hopefully that solves the brake pedal issue im having, it will solve the leaking master cylinder for sure at least lol

I would think that would take care of it. let us know.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

well had a little time to play with the truck while I wait for the booster setup. I took my multi meter and checked the MAF for 12 volt and ground with key and both checked out. my multimeter don't have hertz, so I couldn't check that. but if it's getting power and ground, I figured the MAF may be failing. I replaced with a new one and have the same problem. cranks the second time and idles fine, but bogs under acceleration, and even a little backfire it seems when I rev it in park.

so I rented a fuel pressure tester from. O'Reilly's. I found some off readings. I'll post the picture below, but with key on, and with the engine running... the psi didn't change and showed really low. I tried this gauge on my 2002 avalanche 5.3, and it showed 55, so I know the gauge is working

opinions? I have some time to kill until I get the booster in so I figured I would try and narrow down this stumbling issue.

[kev2809]

I'm running an ACDELCO# EP381 fuel pump, which is listed for a 96-97 Tahoe. that pump should put out enough pressure for the LS motors.

the filter is just a basic stock 2002 Tahoe filter from O'Reilly's.

[LockDoc]

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I'm no fuel supply guru but I'm surprised it is running at all with that low of fuel pressure. I think it should be 55-60# pressure. I think I would go over to the LSx Swaps forum and ask over there.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

ya I'm surprised too Leon. at first I thought the gauge wasn't right. but when I connected to my other truck I quickly realized it was working.

[kev2809]

well I MIGHT have found the problem. pulled the fuel pump and the pickup hose wasn't all the way on! straightened it up and dropped it back in and now I'm getting 45 psi running. 55 truck off key on. pressure still seems a little low, pump is listed for a 97 Tahoe which is the TBI motor, but I read this pump is commonly used for LS swaps.

but anyways, I put it in gear and punched it back and forth in the driveway trying to recreate the bog down.. and it didn't do it... ran good it seems. still want to wait til my booster comes in before I can take a spin around the block

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

well I MIGHT have found the problem. pulled the fuel pump and the pickup hose wasn't all the way on! straightened it up and dropped it back in and now I'm getting 45 psi running. 55 truck off key on. pressure still seems a little low, pump is listed for a 97 Tahoe which is the TBI motor, but I read this pump is commonly used for LS swaps.

but anyways, I put it in gear and punched it back and forth in the driveway trying to recreate the bog down.. and it didn't do it... ran good it seems. still want to wait til my booster comes in before I can take a spin around the block

Yes, I think the TBI pumps are a little low on pressure. I don't know what the down side might be....

Does the end of your tube have a bubble on it? If not you may have problems with it again after a while. Lot of pressure for no bubble and 1 clamp. I put 2 of the special fuel injection clamps on mine but it looks like you are a little short on space there.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Yes, I think the TBI pumps are a little low on pressure. I don't know what the down side might be....

Does the end of your tube have a bubble on it? If not you may have problems with it again after a while. Lot of pressure for no bubble and 1 clamp. I put 2 of the special fuel injection clamps on mine but it looks like you are a little short on space there.

LockDoc

I posted this in the LS section also. when I bought my tank it came with spare pump hose and clamps. so does the acdelco pump... I think I used the tank stuff because the acdelco one comes with different style clamps.

so, I will pull the pump back out and buy a longer hose and fuel injection clamps. that way I can at least get 2 clamps on the upper part. I'll have to look out for that flare your talking about

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Yes, I think the TBI pumps are a little low on pressure. I don't know what the down side might be....

Does the end of your tube have a bubble on it? If not you may have problems with it again after a while. Lot of pressure for no bubble and 1 clamp. I put 2 of the special fuel injection clamps on mine but it looks like you are a little short on space there.

LockDoc

These are the clamps Leon is talking about. https://www.napaonline.com/en/search...227&referer=v2 They have better clamping power and don't cut into the hose.

[kev2809]

yup that's what I bought yesterday, pack of 10. had to order the hose on Amazon though, should be here Wednesday. but the sending unit tube did not have a bubble or flare on it. I'm not worried about it though, because now that I will put a little longer hose, I can double clamp it up there.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

yup that's what I bought yesterday, pack of 10. had to order the hose on Amazon though, should be here Wednesday. but the sending unit tube did not have a bubble or flare on it. I'm not worried about it though, because now that I will put a little longer hose, I can double clamp it up there.

Sounds good. That should do it.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

well, couldnt double clamp it, that hose was TOUGH to slide on the tube. but i did get plenty on to get the clamp on. truck started right up, idled fine, even pulled out the driveway and back in without stumbling. also, over in the LS swap section, lsnova pointed out i have a flex fuel...which explains the low pressure at the rail! didnt even know..lol
pressure sits at 43ish idling, 50-52 with the vac line is pulled off..which all is normal for a flex fuel engine.

while i waiting for the hose, i got my e brake cover on and mounted the OBD2 port. little by little....

[kev2809]

also swapped out the pcv just to do it. mine seemed a little loose in the valve cover grommet, new one doesnt hurt. i did order it off amazon by the part number i found on it, but they sent me one that looks like a check valve sort of instead of a hole. not sure if this one is maybe an updated version?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

also swapped out the pcv just to do it. mine seemed a little loose in the valve cover grommet, new one doesnt hurt. i did order it off amazon by the part number i found on it, but they sent me one that looks like a check valve sort of instead of a hole. not sure if this one is maybe an updated version?

I saw your post over there. I wasn't aware there was a difference in the flex fuel engines either.

Yes, that is just a newer style valve.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

booster came in yesterday and i finished getting it in today and installed it. definitely fixed my pedal problem. took it out for the first time in 10 years...AND, it was the first time i ever took it around the block (the only other time it left my yard is to the stop sign, and reversed back, so that doesnt count!). feels great for this truck to finally move under its own power in the 14 years ive had it, too long. now the back brakes isnt working right it feels like, think they need adjusted. and my speedo isnt working at all, but the cluster needs to come back off to align the tach needle anyways

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

booster came in yesterday and i finished getting it in today and installed it. definitely fixed my pedal problem. took it out for the first time in 10 years...AND, it was the first time i ever took it around the block (the only other time it left my yard is to the stop sign, and reversed back, so that doesnt count!). feels great for this truck to finally move under its own power in the 14 years ive had it, too long. now the back brakes isnt working right it feels like, think they need adjusted. and my speedo isnt working at all, but the cluster needs to come back off to align the tach needle anyways

On the drum brakes, one thing I found on mine is when you put everything back together and adjust the brake shoes you can’t just adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit. You have to adjust them out as far as they will go and you cannot turn the wheel or drum at all. This centers the whole assembly in the drum. (I even tap around the drum with a hammer as I tighten them to help them center themselves) Then you back them off until the wheel/drum just turns, and stop. If you only adjust them out until they start rubbing and quit, the first time you press on the brake pedal the brake shoe assemblies will center themselves and you will have too much clearance between the shoes and the brake drum. I also put three lug nuts on backwards to hold the drum tight against the axle on the rear when adjusting them.

I know it is a pain in the butt to try and hold the self adjusters off of the adjuster wheel while you back them off, but this is the only way I could get my drum brake shoes adjusted correctly.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

ya i hope to mess with it this weekend but we are supposed to get some rain again, so i wrapped up the truck with the tarps again. i got the rear lights on but the brake lights or signals dont work. im having some really weird problems with the signals and stuff lol, when i pull the cluster i will trace some wiring and dig into the column plug to make sure everthing is wired right. also the rear bulb holding wire for the reverse lights i ordered from LMC cant be right. i posted a WTB in the parts section to see if i can salvage some rear connectors, this way i can test the reverse lights. want to get the wiring down and make it street legal

[BAD1916]

Loving the progress! That drive had to have felt amazing.