48 Burb, bagged, 5.3, 20 year wait

[Advanced Design]

So right Valarious, a step back and a different day made the difference in finding a better solution.

Lower, I don't have the equipment or gas mix to weld the 304 and I need to do a little welding in following what oldnslow did for his running board exit. He drew this up and posted on his build. I just might try to make some out of 16 gauge then have them coated. Or try a different attachment solution with the 304 stainless tips.

Buddy's ocd was kicking in he said when he decided to go with two turbo's. Just not bad enough to pay for mirror image turbo's. Here is a link from when we found the car...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=696348

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

So right Valarious, a step back and a different day made the difference in finding a better solution.

Lower, I don't have the equipment or gas mix to weld the 304 and I need to do a little welding in following what oldnslow did for his running board exit. He drew this up and posted on his build. I just might try to make some out of 16 gauge then have them coated. Or try a different attachment solution with the 304 stainless tips.

Buddy's ocd was kicking in he said when he decided to go with two turbo's. Just not bad enough to pay for mirror image turbo's. Here is a link from when we found the car...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=696348

Not to discredit at all how old n slow did this but for the sake of discussion I did not build a heat shield and mine only has approx. 3/8" clearance and there has been no effect to the paint from heat. I actually even cut in my openings after the running boards were painted. I don't recommend this, it was just a byproduct of my poor planning in not mocking EVERYTHING up in advance of paint.

If it helps I can dig up some pics of mine or take any that you might need.

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Not to discredit at all how old n slow did this but for the sake of discussion I did not build a heat shield and mine only has approx. 3/8" clearance and there has been no effect to the paint from heat. I actually even cut in my openings after the running boards were painted. I don't recommend this, it was just a byproduct of my poor planning in not mocking EVERYTHING up in advance of paint.

If it helps I can dig up some pics of mine or take any that you might need.

Marc

Thanks Marc. Please don't bother with it as I think I have a good direction to go. Gotta say I wouldn't have thought of the flex pipes except for your and oldnslow's comments so appreciate that. Good thought on the heat shields as I likely will leave the boards as they are.

Now for more exhaust parts to show up....

Hey, are you sandbagging? Figure you will have a start video any day now.

[99 to Life]

big ticket items getting checked off, exhaust and DS, getting close. But oh boy does interior stuff take forevvvveeeerrr. I'll have to look into those DShafts.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

big ticket items getting checked off, exhaust and DS, getting close. But oh boy does interior stuff take forevvvveeeerrr. I'll have to look into those DShafts.

Yeah 99, the budget busters are coming along. And it seems everything on this build takes me forever. Still a ton on the to do list.

[99 to Life]

very nice explanation on that. First I'v seen this method and I'v searched the subject a few times you could say. I usually shoot for a zero them out method. trans -3 and rear +3 for example. I know some guys have different methods with leaf springs vs link bars etc.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

very nice explanation on that. First I'v seen this method and I'v searched the subject a few times you could say. I usually shoot for a zero them out method. trans -3 and rear +3 for example. I know some guys have different methods with leaf springs vs link bars etc.

Thanks 99. And you are right the rear working angle, at ride height, needs to be the same as the front working angle, or at least within 0.5 degrees. This is the method I learned at GM tech class when I was a GM field engineer.

[RockinKees]

Nice parts Doug!
Great tutorial on how to measure the angles.

What kind of mufflers are you going to use?

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by RockinKees

Nice parts Doug!
Great tutorial on how to measure the angles.

What kind of mufflers are you going to use?

Thanks Kees! I am not sure on the mufflers yet. I don't want anything too loud and will see what will fit once the x pipe is mounted up. The 56 Chevy has Pypes mufflers and a good sound so maybe a set of those. The exhaust will probably take longer than the fuel tank mounting did.

[Coach529]

Looks great.

Love the exhaust coming out the running boards.

[iowaboynca]

Coming along nicely!
Thanks for the write up on angles! I've booked marked for future reference.

[oldman3]

Doug, nice work man...Jim

[Old Jimmy]

Doug,

Thanks for the lesson on driveline angles. I wondered how I would accomplish this. Where can I get one of those meters?

Jeff

[youngrodder]

Great progress Doug. After looking at all of this I feel pretty confident that I have a strangle hold on 3rd place...Not to jinx you.

The exhaust tips that I used on my 48 were like the pair on the left with center inlet.

Keep it up

Marc

[Advanced Design]

Thanks Coach! it would have been pretty tricky to route exhaust to the back so running boards should be good.

You are welcome Iowa, when I set the rear I will probably show that too. Usually this is done from the bottom with the body on though same principle applies.

Thanks Jim, I'm not talented like a lot of folks on here though I enjoy trying my best.

Old Jimmy you are welcome. That angle finder came from Amazon Amazon.com: Calculated Industries 7434 AccuMASTER...
Please be sure to use a socket (or big roller bearing) that is true on both sides or your angles will be off.

Thanks Marc, I might be good for third place as what I posted took all day Saturday. Blew off mowing the grass and wife will handle that this week...which is a blessing from the Lord. The exhaust tips I didn't use would have been better size wise. Oh well, more parts for the ever growing swap meet pile.

Guys, appreciate the words, encouragement and good natured chop busting. Helps keep me motivated as we all know how much time, effort and resources these builds take.

Next weekend hope to finish the through the running board exhaust tips and maybe get the new transmission crossmember in.

[lower50's]

Every time I read on how to set up axles and ds I learn something new Thanks. Nice looking exhaust are you going to put in some kind of flex joint?

[BC Toy chest]

Awesome work with the exhaust , love it.

[65sub]

Cool exhaust. I really like the exit in the running board.

[Advanced Design]

Thanks BC and 65! Hope the rest of the exhaust comes out ok...I think I have a plan, or at least a rough draft of an idea.

[NorCalGal]

RE: pinion angle finder - Anyone who has a smart phone there is an app (I think is free) called Tremec tool box.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by NorCalGal

RE: pinion angle finder - Anyone who has a smart phone there is an app (I think is free) called Tremec tool box.

Thanks NorCalGal, that is a pretty cool app! The side of my smart phone has control buttons making it difficult to get perfectly flat, though it is probably really close. I was trying it out here.

[joedoh]

nice tutorial on angles! I always thought it was funny how your brain works, 4 degrees looks like a lot more than 4 degrees, and when you see a really steep hill and find out its less than 15 degrees, its hard to believe.

side exit is a cool idea too, I just realized the 91 donor in the driveway has a fancy boxed exhaust tip on it, maybe I will use it!

love the switch magnets, and how you drill then plug weld, I do that constantly, my favorite way to make a very solid weld to an existing flat surface

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by joedoh

nice tutorial on angles! I always thought it was funny how your brain works, 4 degrees looks like a lot more than 4 degrees, and when you see a really steep hill and find out its less than 15 degrees, its hard to believe.

side exit is a cool idea too, I just realized the 91 donor in the driveway has a fancy boxed exhaust tip on it, maybe I will use it!

love the switch magnets, and how you drill then plug weld, I do that constantly, my favorite way to make a very solid weld to an existing flat surface

Thanks joedoh. Angles can be eye deceiving for sure!

The side exit hopefully is a better solution than dumping the exhaust in front of the rear axle and I am copying from Marc and oldnslow so I am following good leads.

Those magnet switches you found are really handy! Yeah, I got a lot of practice plug welding on the floor and it should work in this application.

[Advanced Design]

Just a little more on the working angles of the drive shaft. I mentioned ideally the front working angle should be shedding water and the rear working angle holding water. They should both be less than 3 degrees and the front and rear working angles need to be within 0.5 degrees of each other. Ideally.

When a vehicle accelerates, the nose of the pinion wants to climb. If the driveline has been dialed in with the front working angle shedding water and the rear holding water, the climbing pinion isn't increasing the working angle beyond desired limits. In fact, the climbing pinion is reducing both working angles closer to zero.

Here is a drawing I put together of the front working angle to help me better visualize the angle shedding water or holding water. It has been 15 years since I did this, so I had to kick it around with a friend who was very good with driveline working angles.

I increased the measured angles x 10 just for my visualization.

[Advanced Design]

Left side exhaust outlet done.