Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

and the other side, done

[Jake Wade]

How did the new clutch feel? Should be easier on the leg.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by LSX408

Looks great! Nice work!

Thanks LSX I appreciate that.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

Looks really nice, keep up the good work!

Thank you Jake, I got lots of help on this forum.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

What's next on the to do list?

What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Everything looks great. You've done real good.

Thank you, couldn't have done it without all you guys, the encouragement and the know how you shared and continue to teach me, much appreciated.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jake Wade

How did the new clutch feel? Should be easier on the leg.

You know what Jake, it doesn't feel that much different, but maybe I got something too tight in there, I will crawl under it one more time tonight and adjust it according to the manual.

Do you know how to adjust the clutch pedal height so I don't knee myself in the jaw every time I try to change gears? LOL, or is it not possible because of the set height vertical push rod?

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by Gregski

What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

Oops.

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

Opps I guess you need to check those wheel cylinders now. by the way enjoying your thread and watching all the good work. Do you want to come clean and paint parts for me? hehehe

[Titomars]

Originally Posted by Gregski

anybody know if this thing in the door/window scissor track is round or oval, should it slide or rotate like a wheel, mine doesn't

They are called rollers and yes they should turn. but seldom do after all these years. At least there should be a good coating of grease on the track and roller. That is a good place to make use of that lubriplate. I myself just use white grease.

[68Timber]

Nice work, Gregski - it's always fun to watch someone work fast and do it right!

[y5mgisi]

Good job on everything!

[Chaplain]

Nice update. This kind of progress is contagious.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

What kind of sound deadening did you use?

Rich, I used Hushmat in the doors, primarily because that's what my local shop had. I also did the firewall and back of the cab. I was surprised by how much effect the back of the cab had. I had figured that "there's this thick seat in front of it, how much could it do?".

If you crank the window all the way up, there's enough room to get the stuff in through the large opening and affix it to the outside door skin.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Gregski

anybody know if this thing in the door/window scissor track is round or oval, should it slide or rotate like a wheel, mine doesn't

It is round and it should rotate around the axle.

[greg64]

Originally Posted by Gregski

What ever it is it won't require crawling under the truck or bench pressing 800 lbs. LOL

Seriously, you ever heard that expression, "Man plans and God laughs"?

Well, I had plans, I wanted to install that '78 gauge cluster I scored on eBay with a tachometer, volt meter, and electronic oil pressure gauge, but Rusty showed me he has other plans...

Greg, the reservoir area that is empty is for the *rear* brakes. It might be worth checking the hydraulic line running to the back, because screwing around with that transmission crossmember may have caused the leak. If it's not there, look at the flex line connected to the axle, and finally the wheel cylinders.

By the way, do you have compressed air?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by greg64

Greg, the reservoir area that is empty is for the *rear* brakes. It might be worth checking the hydraulic line running to the back, because screwing around with that transmission crossmember may have caused the leak. If it's not there, look at the flex line connected to the axle, and finally the wheel cylinders.

Thanks Greg, I want to let you know that prior to the repair from time to time I would notice the master brake cylinder itself looked wet like this, does this tell us anything? I thought it was leaking from the lid cause maybe it was too full, but it was not over full.

[Gregski]

found the contact spot on that fly wheel inspection dust cover, one swift love tap with the 3 lbs sledge and she rubbed no more

last pic is what it was rubbing against, the end of the crank shaft which is not exactly round but that weird shape

[Gregski]

before putting the turtle shell back on the transmission tunnel I decided I should replace the speedometer cable since the end that screws on to the transmission had stripped threads

I think you do not have to even remove the speedometer from the gauge cluster to do it, you can just reach around the back and snap the cable out but I forgot so I removed the speedo, it was easier since I don't have a dash pad on at the moment

in addition to unsapping the cable from the speedometer and unscrewing the other end from the transmission, there are two clip brackets that need unboltnig one has a larger bolt than the other, one is in the engine bay, the other under the driver's floor

[400/400]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Thanks Greg, I want to let you know that prior to the repair from time to time I would notice the master brake cylinder itself looked wet like this, does this tell us anything? I thought it was leaking from the lid cause maybe it was too full, but it was not over full.

Looks like you need a new master cylinder. My '85 was leaking like that when I got it. It was the seal on the vac booster side of the MC.

Make sure to bench bleed it when you get a new one.

[Gregski]

couple minutes finagling that larger bolt bracket in the engine bay and the old speedo cable was out

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by 400/400

Looks like you need a new master cylinder. My '85 was leaking like that when I got it. It was the seal on the vac booster side of the MC.

Make sure to bench bleed it when you get a new one.

One of the things we need to realize when working on these older vehicles is that rubber shrinks and hardens as it ages. Lots of things that isn't so good for, like water pumps, rear engine seals, master and slave cylinders, etc. You can add seal conditioner to engines, transmissions, and power steering systems. If you use the right one ( Amazon.com: ATP AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8...), it will add the missing volatiles back to the rubber and help a lot. But you can't use it in brake systems.

BTW, if that Lubriplate has shown up, it's a great choice for the speedo cable lube.

[Gregski]

please inspect your parts before you take them home from the parts house

here is the new cable I got from The AutoZone, the $6 dollar price tag should have been the first Red Flag

you ever heard that expression it's like trying to fit a square peg in a round hole, well how about a round peg in a square hole

I recon this special order cable got fandangled in shipping

[Gregski]

here's how the new cable compares to the old

that red protective cap sure did a lot of good didn't it

[Gregski]

well after an hour or so (that I will never get back) I tapped the fitting into submission using a 10 mm socket and got the cable installed, and the speedo works, but since the gauge is bulging out a bit in the middle I recon the cable needs to go in about 1/6h of an inch more but it can't so I think I will be getting another one from The NAPA Auto Parts store tomorrow

ah the joys of aftermarket quality parts