Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!

[kev2809]

I have one on my 02 sierra because I think it has a battery drain somewhere. but I would feel like it wouldn't idle right when I would disconnect it daily. now it idles fine with the disconnect but now the damn thing dies every now and then lol


problems...

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by HO455

Judging from the gauge being around the "C" mark and then reading just below HOT when the truck isn't running hot I would say there is an issue with the guage.
When you said you used a stock sender was it a stock sender for the truck as opposed to stock for the engine. The guage requires a specific sender to be accurate.

These threads may help you.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=587190

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=726700

followed one of them links and they posted a temp sender part number. i tried that one and it seems i had the wrong one (rock auto ) warmed it up today and this is where the needled sat, with a cheap thermo gun pointed at the pump it read about 190 ish

thank you!

[HO455]

You're welcome! Glad to see more progress.

[kev2809]

well, finally got some stuff buttoned up. had to redo the passenger side exhaust. finished up the e brake install, that was interesting with the exhaust all up in the way. i moved it for the first time in like 8 or 9 years i think it was. got some bugs though before i try to move it around the block. brake pedal SLOWLY comes back up after pressing it..need that figured out. the start up on it has been very odd, but after numerous crank and runs it finally stayed on and ran normal. i will try again tomorrow to see how it cranks and stays on.

im super excited because i think FINALLY i might be able to make the local car show this year in june....well see though.

[kev2809]

I did want to describe the engine running problem, maybe it's normal? so.. I never had any issues with the trucking turning on and running before I did the exhaust.

truck starts.. after a few cranks... runs a little rough, sputters for a few seconds dies. it did this over and over.. maybe and 10-12 times. periodically I would press the pedal and rev it it some. some times it would stay running, sometimes the pedal pressing would kill it. unplugged MAF, plugged in, no change either way... still dies.

I got frustrated, disconnected ground on the battery, pulled intake and MAF. cleaned MAF with cleaner, cleaned throttle body a little with cleaner. installed everything back and same results. on about the 3rd crank after this, I constantly kept reving the truck with the pedal, about 2000 rpm, up and down. finally it stayed running and idled great.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

I did want to describe the engine running problem, maybe it's normal? so.. I never had any issues with the trucking turning on and running before I did the exhaust.

truck starts.. after a few cranks... runs a little rough, sputters for a few seconds dies. it did this over and over.. maybe and 10-12 times. periodically I would press the pedal and rev it it some. some times it would stay running, sometimes the pedal pressing would kill it. unplugged MAF, plugged in, no change either way... still dies.

I got frustrated, disconnected ground on the battery, pulled intake and MAF. cleaned MAF with cleaner, cleaned throttle body a little with cleaner. installed everything back and same results. on about the 3rd crank after this, I constantly kept reving the truck with the pedal, about 2000 rpm, up and down. finally it stayed running and idled great.

I wonder if it could be a bad 02 sensor or maybe carboned up a little, or connector not plugged in all the way? Hopefully after you run it a little more it will straighten itself out.....

On the brake issue, it sounds like your return spring is either broken or missing. One end of it fastens in a bracket right by the brake light switch and the other end fastens up by the firewall. It will be white or blue in color. Don't pay any attention to the labels.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

hey Leon... I bought new o2 sensors last week and put them in, same issue... I'll check the plugs. I cranked it again about an hour after shut down and it started right up.

I checked the spring last week and it's there for sure.... wonder if it could be worn out. is it a common issue?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

hey Leon... I bought new o2 sensors last week and put them in, same issue... I'll check the plugs. I cranked it again about an hour after shut down and it started right up.

I checked the spring last week and it's there for sure.... wonder if it could be worn out. is it a common issue?

Good deal on the startup. That is a good sign.....

I don't think you are going to ever wear that spring out. It is tough. I have seen them break though, that is why I asked.

I found this post by Accelo:

Your Pedal check valves are damaged. Power brake sluggish return is almost always the relief valve built into the sealing ring at the plunger input failing to let in fresh air and you're fighting a vacuum from the other side. It allows the diaphragm spring to overcome the engine vacuum and return the brake pedal to the normal position. In all likelihood you will need to replace or rebuild the booster.

Another thing you can try is to unhook the vacuum line to the booster (plug the manifold side) and see what the pedal does.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

ran it for a bit today and it finally showed a code. p0102, which is low voltage from the MAF. going to try and see what I can read on that one, other than just buying a new one and hope it fixes it.

I went back and forth in the yard a little stopping and going and noticed the pedal was a little erratic. it press real easy sometimes, sometimes it wouldn't. if I pumped them a lot it would return like normal, and sometimes not.... and of course the slow return was still there. I tried adjusting the rod nut on the pedal but no change.

the booster is new... but from about 8-10 years ago. it sat for a while and rusted up. when I pulled it off last year I just repainted it and bought another master cylinder. so who knows, maybe the booster is leaking on the inside


I did unhook the vac hose on the booster while it was running and started stumbling and wanted to turn off... so I just hooked it back up

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

I did unhook the vac hose on the booster while it was running and started stumbling and wanted to turn off... so I just hooked it back up

That is why I mentioned in my post above to plug the manifold side of the line...

LockDoc

[kev2809]

oops haha I'll see if I have something to plug it. what "should" the pedal do with no vaccume? return like it should?

I was thinking of buying those cheapo harbor freight vaccume testers and see if I could test the booster on the truck

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

oops haha I'll see if I have something to plug it. what "should" the pedal do with no vaccume? return like it should?

I was thinking of buying those cheapo harbor freight vaccume testers and see if I could test the booster on the truck

Not sure if it will make a difference or not. I guess you could just press the brake pedal without the engine running and see how it returns. That should produce the same results because there would be no vacuum.....

Do you remember if the pedal moved freely before you bolted up the pedal to booster bellcrank rod?

LockDoc

[kev2809]

well with the truck off i can press the pedal down (it is stiffer than when the truck is on) and it returns normal. it only does it when its running, i bench bled the master cylinder, then i bled the truck twice. i mean, i guess it could still be air but idk.

i popped the hood today and noticed theres a leak between the master and booster. the master i bought here off the board brand new, believe it was old stock. im thinking maybe a new booster and master is something i might be buying......again

im wondering if ONLY the master cylinder leaking could be causing the slow pedal return...i just dont want to have to pull the master, replace it, bleed out the system...only to realize the booster was bad too lol

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

well with the truck off i can press the pedal down (it is stiffer than when the truck is on) and it returns normal. it only does it when its running, i bench bled the master cylinder, then i bled the truck twice. i mean, i guess it could still be air but idk.

i popped the hood today and noticed theres a leak between the master and booster. the master i bought here off the board brand new, believe it was old stock. im thinking maybe a new booster and master is something i might be buying......again

im wondering if ONLY the master cylinder leaking could be causing the slow pedal return...i just dont want to have to pull the master, replace it, bleed out the system...only to realize the booster was bad too lol

I don't think the master cylinder could cause that, and I don't think it's air in the system. I guess I would be leaning towards the booster. Do you have an old booster you can try? You can change the booster without disconnecting the brake lines. Just unbolt the master and pull it forward enough to unbolt and remove the booster.....

LockDoc

[kev2809]

i dont have an extra one. i dont mind buying a new one if thats what it is, but the leak in between the master cylinder and booster would also mean that the master cylinder would be bad, right? what im thinking is two seperate problems..the booster maybe damaged on the inside causing the poor pedal return, but master cylinder is also leaking where the booster push rod goes in..

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by kev2809

i dont have an extra one. i dont mind buying a new one if thats what it is, but the leak in between the master cylinder and booster would also mean that the master cylinder would be bad, right? what im thinking is two seperate problems..the booster maybe damaged on the inside causing the poor pedal return, but master cylinder is also leaking where the booster push rod goes in..

I agree. Leak into the booster from master may not be all the problem . The booster sitting unused for time might cause issues in my opinion.

[kev2809]

ya..and it was rusted up good. i hit it with a wire wheel and cleaned it up before painting it...but it probably sat in the truck unused nearly 10 years. im looking around now to see if i can find booster/master cylinder combo thats reasonable. stuff went way up since i bought these the first time..as has everything else

[kev2809]

went ahead and ordered a whole new booster/master cylinder/prop valve setup. says its specifically for a 67-72 c10 with front disc rear drums. hopefully that solves the brake pedal issue im having, it will solve the leaking master cylinder for sure at least lol

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1972-C..._redirect=true

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

went ahead and ordered a whole new booster/master cylinder/prop valve setup. says its specifically for a 67-72 c10 with front disc rear drums. hopefully that solves the brake pedal issue im having, it will solve the leaking master cylinder for sure at least lol

I would think that would take care of it. let us know.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

well had a little time to play with the truck while I wait for the booster setup. I took my multi meter and checked the MAF for 12 volt and ground with key and both checked out. my multimeter don't have hertz, so I couldn't check that. but if it's getting power and ground, I figured the MAF may be failing. I replaced with a new one and have the same problem. cranks the second time and idles fine, but bogs under acceleration, and even a little backfire it seems when I rev it in park.

so I rented a fuel pressure tester from. O'Reilly's. I found some off readings. I'll post the picture below, but with key on, and with the engine running... the psi didn't change and showed really low. I tried this gauge on my 2002 avalanche 5.3, and it showed 55, so I know the gauge is working

opinions? I have some time to kill until I get the booster in so I figured I would try and narrow down this stumbling issue.

[kev2809]

I'm running an ACDELCO# EP381 fuel pump, which is listed for a 96-97 Tahoe. that pump should put out enough pressure for the LS motors.

the filter is just a basic stock 2002 Tahoe filter from O'Reilly's.

[LockDoc]

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I'm no fuel supply guru but I'm surprised it is running at all with that low of fuel pressure. I think it should be 55-60# pressure. I think I would go over to the LSx Swaps forum and ask over there.

LockDoc

[kev2809]

ya I'm surprised too Leon. at first I thought the gauge wasn't right. but when I connected to my other truck I quickly realized it was working.

[kev2809]

well I MIGHT have found the problem. pulled the fuel pump and the pickup hose wasn't all the way on! straightened it up and dropped it back in and now I'm getting 45 psi running. 55 truck off key on. pressure still seems a little low, pump is listed for a 97 Tahoe which is the TBI motor, but I read this pump is commonly used for LS swaps.

but anyways, I put it in gear and punched it back and forth in the driveway trying to recreate the bog down.. and it didn't do it... ran good it seems. still want to wait til my booster comes in before I can take a spin around the block

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

well I MIGHT have found the problem. pulled the fuel pump and the pickup hose wasn't all the way on! straightened it up and dropped it back in and now I'm getting 45 psi running. 55 truck off key on. pressure still seems a little low, pump is listed for a 97 Tahoe which is the TBI motor, but I read this pump is commonly used for LS swaps.

but anyways, I put it in gear and punched it back and forth in the driveway trying to recreate the bog down.. and it didn't do it... ran good it seems. still want to wait til my booster comes in before I can take a spin around the block

Yes, I think the TBI pumps are a little low on pressure. I don't know what the down side might be....

Does the end of your tube have a bubble on it? If not you may have problems with it again after a while. Lot of pressure for no bubble and 1 clamp. I put 2 of the special fuel injection clamps on mine but it looks like you are a little short on space there.

LockDoc