72 k20 project

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by jbclassix

Slightly jealous.

I am very happy, if not a little broke. rings and bearings with gaskets, all OEM is a little more on a 6bt than your average GM v8... haha

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Looks great. Have you decide on if the stock pan will work, or is it still going to be a custom aluminum one? (I hope aluminum one because that will be BA.)

Thanks! still planning on the fabricated pan. So tell Kyle to get his poop in a pile. i need that flange. if you look , hanging on the headstock of the engine stand is the first draft of my oil pan flange. i still need to tweak the drawing. this was the strait scan of a gasket, and it almost works anyhow.

Originally Posted by Mattman2010

Looking good Riley!

Thanks Mister

Originally Posted by mx289

Nice. That was a quick rebuild !

And trained by McClaine huh ? Lets do this !
(This will sound very random,but my mother actually went to HS with him.No BS.
Said he was very quite.)

And take care of that cab.Or i will show up with a viking and take it.

Ha that is crazy. i have an aunt that went to prom with a rather prominent Green Bay packers linebacker. i forget his name, but it was one of those type of things. no one believed her.

i have camoflaged the house so now i blend in to yuppieville. no way to find the house now... it is safe

[Dieselwrencher]

Haha, park a high dollar SUV in your drive way and now you're camoflaged?

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Haha, park a high dollar SUV in your drive way and now you're camoflaged?

you got it. i can tell the neighbors are confused. i dont think they know how to process it. haha

[ryanroo]

made a little headway on the fuel filter silliness.



this involved a little creativity. or stupidity... the line gets a little fuzzy. i wanted the filters up as high as possible, hopefully out of the way. this was about as far up as i could go without hitting the cab. its still going to be close, but ill hope my measuring is good. i need to get a few fittings for the heads before i nail it down for good.

i used the pipe nipples to help with alignment when i tacked the bracket. the plan right now involves some double ferrule compression fittings and stainless hard line in the center part of the frame where hopefully you wont ever need to be removing anything, and transition to braided soft lines closer to the front of the truck and the area near the lift pump/tank at the rear.

i've been debating on using PTFE braided line and fittings vs the conventional braided over rubber hose.

[COS399]

Ryan your truck is looking SWEEEET! I'm gonna have to sign up for some lesson from CHUCK NORRIS.

[swamp rat]

Man that's a lot of work for the fuel filters, but if anybody has the fab skills its you.

I am kinda surprised your putting the batteries on the inside of the rails, hard to reach the terminals of you ever need to jump someone.

Actually my first thought was is there any chance of a driveline breaking loose from a U-joint failure and hitting the batteries? Safety cage for the shaft or batteries?

[mosesburb]

Is the fuel particularly terrible in your area that you need that much filter?? Maybe it's just the angle of the picture, but that seems ridiculously long??

As far as Teflon vs. rubber in the braided line debate, there is no comparison between the two. Teflon liner or nothing--that is unless you really like making hose assemblies, if so, then you should go with the rubber liner. Over the past five years, I have slowly been removing all the rubber lined braided hose from service in my fleet. Teflon costs more, but it's service life is infinite.

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by COS399

Ryan your truck is looking SWEEEET! I'm gonna have to sign up for some lesson from CHUCK NORRIS.

i'll have to get steven segal. epic battle.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Man that's a lot of work for the fuel filters, but if anybody has the fab skills its you.

yeah, i do silly stuff sometimes.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I am kinda surprised your putting the batteries on the inside of the rails, hard to reach the terminals of you ever need to jump someone.

the plan was always to hide the batteries. i will need power in the engine bay anyhow and since it will have a rear winch i just figure i will wire in a stud or power point of some sort in the front and rear of the truck to handle jumper duties.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Actually my first thought was is there any chance of a driveline breaking loose from a U-joint failure and hitting the batteries? Safety cage for the shaft or batteries?

that is a possibility. i don't plan on running a battery with liquid solution in it. so if it does blow up and ruin my batteries and exhaust, i will deal with that then. with the above average number of things to hang off this truck, i have to use what space i can. i still have to find space for a reasonable amount of air storage, plumbing and associated items. and all the stuff i am sure i have forgotten about. oh yeah, oil filters and air horns...

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by mosesburb

Is the fuel particularly terrible in your area that you need that much filter?? Maybe it's just the angle of the picture, but that seems ridiculously long??

As far as Teflon vs. rubber in the braided line debate, there is no comparison between the two. Teflon liner or nothing--that is unless you really like making hose assemblies, if so, then you should go with the rubber liner. Over the past five years, I have slowly been removing all the rubber lined braided hose from service in my fleet. Teflon costs more, but it's service life is infinite.

the filters are huge. but huge is better. i can get a shorter version of either filter if these offend me too much, but i don't see any reason. there have been a couple of instances around here where i have seen fuel systems wiped out because of dirty fuel. but i also know the right places to buy and where not to. that doesnt mean i will know all the good places everywhere i go. its hard to argue with more is better when it comes to how clean the fuel is going into your IP. lastly, with more media surface area, you get less drop in flow as the filter gets dirty and therefor less pressure rise. that is good for everybody. especially my not real cheap lift pump.

i knew i could rely on you to argue the teflon hose. i do think i will use it for my fuel and oil lines. i think the air system will get regular rubber though. i guess we'll see when i get to the point of ordering it.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice mount Mr.Roo. The only thing I'd add to your list is a battery disconnect switch just in case. That way if there's ever a need to disconnect battery power if your starter stays engaged, you aren't left with a big pile of molten metal because you couldn't get under there in time to get your cable ends off. Those big filters restrict less at the rate of fuel you will be pushing through them too. Not what a stock diaphram lift pump puts out.

[ryanroo]

I have toyed with the idea of a disconnect and isolation set up. i have even been secretly thinking about stashing a third battery for the winch and isolating it from the two chassis batteries. i do plan on running 200 amp circuit breakers to protect the cables, but i dont know if that will do me any good in the event of the starter sticking. id really like to have a disconnect but id have to figure out where it would be reasonable to inject in the circuit and still be accessible. one hurdle at a time i suppose. i am not particularly looking forward to the investment in copper. i have a top of the line taste when it comes to battery cable, and i need a lot of it.

[Last_Paladin]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

I have toyed with the idea of a disconnect and isolation set up. i have even been secretly thinking about stashing a third battery for the winch and isolating it from the two chassis batteries. i do plan on running 200 amp circuit breakers to protect the cables, but i dont know if that will do me any good in the event of the starter sticking. id really like to have a disconnect but id have to figure out where it would be reasonable to inject in the circuit and still be accessible. one hurdle at a time i suppose. i am not particularly looking forward to the investment in copper. i have a top of the line taste when it comes to battery cable, and i need a lot of it.

What about the big maxi fuses they put in modern trucks?

Let me know on cable, I have about 400ft of it. I just finished wiring my remote batteries.

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

I have toyed with the idea of a disconnect and isolation set up. i have even been secretly thinking about stashing a third battery for the winch and isolating it from the two chassis batteries. i do plan on running 200 amp circuit breakers to protect the cables, but i dont know if that will do me any good in the event of the starter sticking. id really like to have a disconnect but id have to figure out where it would be reasonable to inject in the circuit and still be accessible. one hurdle at a time i suppose. i am not particularly looking forward to the investment in copper. i have a top of the line taste when it comes to battery cable, and i need a lot of it.

What about putting a solenoid/relay in line right by the battery? you wouldnt need any additional heavy guage, just a trigger wire to a switch you put anywhere convenient. Or hide the switch and now you have a theft deterrent too. Looking good!

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Last_Paladin

What about the big maxi fuses they put in modern trucks?

Let me know on cable, I have about 400ft of it. I just finished wiring my remote batteries.

The chassis harness will have a maxi fuse to protect it, these circuit breakers would pop if a large cable shorted. it is a failsafe for the heavy cable, so it wont torch if the starter shorts to ground or some other weird thing.

this is the cable i am looking at running. very flexible and finely stranded.

http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/...erCable_lg.jpg

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

What about putting a solenoid/relay in line right by the battery? you wouldnt need any additional heavy guage, just a trigger wire to a switch you put anywhere convenient. Or hide the switch and now you have a theft deterrent too. Looking good!

Thanks
that would probably work, so long as the solenoid could handle the load. i havent looked, but i am sure there is something that would work.

[ryanroo]

In the effort of getting the frame rail fab as complete as possible before the cab is on, i finished the welding on the link brackets both front and rear. slathered them in paint and did the links as well.



the other side is curing now. i did them one at a time so i didnt have to worry about the axle rolling away...

[mx289]

Looking good.

Your making some good progress with everything.

[Mustard72]

This is really cool.

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking nice Ryan!

[ryanroo]

Thanks Guys!

i got a little box today with these cute little three gallon tanks. i sure wish i had more room. i think i may be able to add two more if i need the volume, but i don't think it'll be an issue given the mount of air the compressor can make.

also pictured is the fab table in its finished albeit shabbily painted state. i need to brush some of the surface rust of the work surface, and figure out where to put it in the way.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice fab table and air tanks man!

[ryanroo]

Thanks!

i got a box with some fittings delivered the other day. for anyone that has done any instrumentation or controls work, this is the run of the mill. they are double ferrule compression fittings that adapt tube to JIC and tube to NPT, in this case the npt adapters are 1/2"x1/2" and the JIC are both -6x3/8" and -8x1/2"



here are the tubing benders for the 1/2" and 3/8" stainless tube. and the Npt adapters twisted into the filter head.



the heads mounted. i bet anyone watching me turn the fittings in bit by bit so the pairs are exactly the same height, might have thought i had a stroke.



and the first dastardly piece of line. this is the fuel feed line. i started the forward piece but it is not done yet. i need decide where i want to terminate the hard line and all that. the pictured piece was a bit awkward due to the bend radius and the proximity of the fittings. it clears everything but looks a little silly. whoops.

[ryanroo]

so.. what to do, i guess i'll drink coffee and stare at it...



I need to buy or make some separator/mounts, but for now Blue Tape!

the rear end of the line may be terminated differently so it is just raw for now, but ill decide what i want at some point.







then i hung these back on just because.



then i mocked this up. i need to fit the inner fenders for the charge pipes, and i need to see about an air box. the one i want is huge, so i will see how much ill need to cut and see if it is practical at all.

[swamp rat]

Thats a nice tubing bender. Makes for some accurate bends.

[ryanroo]

They are nice. i borrowed these from the boss. i bet just between the 3/8" and 1/2" there is over 500$ worth of bender there. i would like to buy a set for myself, but for no more than i bend tube at home, the price was a little hard to swallow.

[tsnow678]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

i would like to buy a set for myself, but for no more than i bend tube at home, the price was a little hard to swallow.

Buy a set? **** man I thought as crafty as you are, you would make your own. Buy a set, says the man that has the baddest engine stand on the planet, ha!