'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Yes!


...and another arrival to the party (tintable)

HOLY CRAP! i use my discs till they are almost gone. now we know why you have that huge shop! next time i'm in your neck of the woods i will really have to get away from my wife and come visit. the let us know how the tintable liner goes. i've been curious about it. bed liner same color as your ride. you doing the interior? or just the bottom?

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Stepped ends are machined to fit these:

The blades work by clocking them between horizontal and vertical, or any degree between. So imagine them set horizontal. They will flex more than when set vertical. When they flex they absorb some of the twist (twist is induced by body roll), thus reducing the total torsional resistance of the entire assembly (like having a lighter bar). When they are set vertical they flex less and more of the twist is transferred to the bar/shaft. Thus increasing the total torsional resistance of the entire assembly (like having a heavier bar).

Hope that helps.

now that is fricken cool! i can imagine how well that adjustable one is. and the second pic shows only one side has the blade so one side is fixed. i wonder how they hold up though? i'm sure because it's race certified, it'll be fine on the street.

[67cheby]

your just amazing....just sayin

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

your just amazing....just sayin

Hey now

[Frizzle Fry]

Another thing that bugged me was the tight clearance between the lower arms and the xmember at one point when the alignment bolts were set to the inboard position:

Solution:






The S2000 xmember sections I used were lopped off behind the rear arm mount holes in order to fit the Minx because the Minx frame rails drop down just aft of the arms. So it has been the plan, and is finally implemented, to box the ends for restored strength:


Ready for powdercoat:

[chevy2racr]

its all just awesome, I want you to get it together for two reasons, 1. i wanna see video of this terror tearing up the streets or track. 2. I wanna see work on the tahoe!

[jeffg1010]

Originally Posted by chevy2racr

its all just awesome, I want you to get it together for two reasons, 1. i wanna see video of this terror tearing up the streets or track. 2. I wanna see work on the tahoe!

I couldn't have said it better myself.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by propanemudtruck

That's so awesome!

Originally Posted by Jvsapp

that's a given! i'd figure the "owners" are entitled to the first "joy" rides better watch out, the wife may enjoy it a little too much.

as for the rear sway, does the stock F-body go backwards too? or did you do that for clearance and room? are you going to do the standard bushings on a bolt for the end link? i got a set of nice blue poly bushings and links for my father in law's ranger front from rock auto. it was $20 for the set i think and really nice.

I have the same ones I think. Blue poly

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Frizz, I am going to need your address so I can send the ADOPTION papers. After all, "first" after family " should include adoptees right?

You might be on to something

Originally Posted by thor

The brackets that attach the sway bar to the axle are really clean!

Thanks. I made them from scrap steel that I got for free!

Originally Posted by dammitmitchell

If i owned a restoration shop i would pay you very well... just .. just to even touch a projet id be excited.. like a teenage girl at a RnB concert....

im so jealous..

Hey now...

Originally Posted by jeffg1010

I couldn't have said it better myself.

Nor I!

[mcbassin]

Super progress Frizzle! Your welds and metal work set the bar so high.....gives me something to shoot for

[-Greg72]

Awesome work Frizz!

I've been lurking and admiring your builds for a while now. There is one aspect of this build that concerns me, and that is the sway bar mod.

The sway bar is designed to absorb torsional forces and distribute them evenly down the length of the bar. When you cut and welded that bar to shorten it, you increased the stiffness (by decreasing the length) and I suspect that there is also a "stiff spot" in the bar at the weld point now.... So torsional forces will not be distributed evenly anymore.

I don't know what the ultimate effect will be, but I suspect that you might end up with cracks at the welded area, and/or the bar will behave like a much thicker diameter one and may upset the handling.

I am fairly certain that there are companies out there who can custom-bend a sway bar to match the shape you need using your modified sway bar as the template. Or you could convert to a 3-piece sway bar setup with a center torsion bar and two splined end links. That style would allow you to swap out the center bar (thicker or thinner) to fine tune the handling later on. Or change the lengths of the end links to soften or stiffen things up.

Just a few thoughts over my morning coffee.... The fabrication is amazing!


-G
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[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by chevy2racr

its all just awesome, I want you to get it together for two reasons, 1. i wanna see video of this terror tearing up the streets or track. 2. I wanna see work on the tahoe!

I'm right there with you man!

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Super progress Frizzle! Your welds and metal work set the bar so high.....gives me something to shoot for

Thanks.

Originally Posted by -Greg72

Awesome work Frizz!

I've been lurking and admiring your builds for a while now. There is one aspect of this build that concerns me, and that is the sway bar mod.

The sway bar is designed to absorb torsional forces and distribute them evenly down the length of the bar. When you cut and welded that bar to shorten it, you increased the stiffness (by decreasing the length) and I suspect that there is also a "stiff spot" in the bar at the weld point now.... So torsional forces will not be distributed evenly anymore.

I don't know what the ultimate effect will be, but I suspect that you might end up with cracks at the welded area, and/or the bar will behave like a much thicker diameter one and may upset the handling.

I am fairly certain that there are companies out there who can custom-bend a sway bar to match the shape you need using your modified sway bar as the template. Or you could convert to a 3-piece sway bar setup with a center torsion bar and two splined end links. That style would allow you to swap out the center bar (thicker or thinner) to fine tune the handling later on. Or change the lengths of the end links to soften or stiffen things up.

Just a few thoughts over my morning coffee.... The fabrication is amazing!


-G
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You are right about the bar being torsionally stiffer than it was before. It's shorter and also has a dead spot as you pointed out. I am confident in the strength, however. Even if it did break the result would be lack of anti-sway, not structural failure. The question is; how much stiffer than stock will it feel in this configuration? The alternatives you mentioned are definitely in the backup plan.
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[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I'm right there with you man!

Thanks.

You are right about the bar being torsionally stiffer than it was before. It's shorter and also has a dead spot as you pointed out. I am confident in the strength, however. Even if it did break the result would be lack of anti-sway, not structural failure. The question is; how much stiffer than stock will it feel in this configuration? The alternatives you mentioned are definitely in the backup plan.
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The formulas for calculating sway bar stiffness are on the interwebs but as you mentioned, it's largely an academic argument....the test drive will tell you if it's too stiff or not. I don't recall if this bar is on the front or rear. If it's a rear bar, you will probably have a ton of oversteer, if it's a front bar you'll see understeer. With as much power as you are adding to that chassis, it might be good to set the car up for some understeer and when you want to kick the tail out with oversteer....just call for it with the throttle!

Good stuff... Keep those pics coming!

-G
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[VA72C10]

Nice! Where do you find the most durable flap discs and wire wheels? I've been getting the wheels from HF and they are super cheap on sale and seem to last a decent time compared to a dewalt one I had but don't know how to compare....

I've been getting the flap discs from Lehigh valley adhesives for fairly cheap but not happy with how they last....

[hgs_notes]

Just wondering if heating the entire bar would fix the grain in the heat affected zone of the weld. Not a full heat treat, which would probably harden it more, but maybe a soak at like 5-600 F. I'm not a metalurgist, but work with ASME steel fab shops, and I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express once.

[Frizzle Fry]

Just started buying some of the consumables at HF. The cut-off wheels work fine. Grind disc seem ok. Flaps wear fast. Can't remember if I picked up a wire wheel there or not. Prior to that I was getting them from various places; Airgas, HD/Lowes, Fastenal, local metal shop.

It's the front bar that I've shortened. So yes, understeer will be the result of too much front anti-roll. I do have a rear bar I plan on running so that will help. Ultimately I'd like to build a front bar with blade arms:




HG, I'll have to googlify that!

[hgs_notes]

Could also reduce the diameter of the bar, a good machinist should be able to figure a way to mount it in the chuck.

[Frizzle Fry]

The blade ends provide instant adjustability. By turning them their flex rate changes which provides the equivalent of a thicker or thinner bar.
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[67cheby]

my little brain cant even comprehend how that could possibly work....BUT WOW THAT IS COOL

[ERASER5]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

my little brain cant even comprehend how that could possibly work....BUT WOW THAT IS COOL

X2! Dangit! No sleep tonight. This will be turning in my brain for days!

[65Pickup]

I'll come out right and ask for more info on the blade arms, what are the stepped levels about, how do you dial them in firmer/softer? Cool stuff as usual and thanks in advance.

[Frizzle Fry]

Stepped ends are machined to fit these:

The blades work by clocking them between horizontal and vertical, or any degree between. So imagine them set horizontal. They will flex more than when set vertical. When they flex they absorb some of the twist (twist is induced by body roll), thus reducing the total torsional resistance of the entire assembly (like having a lighter bar). When they are set vertical they flex less and more of the twist is transferred to the bar/shaft. Thus increasing the total torsional resistance of the entire assembly (like having a heavier bar).

Hope that helps.

[65Pickup]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Stepped ends are machined to fit these:

Hope that helps.

Thanks I see how they fit know, the link to the A-arm is the only part not shown...and the torsional resistance increases as the blade is put on edge. Who makes this stuff?

[Hart_Rod]

Let me know when you think this thing is going to be done, I'll be there to pick it up the following day.................

[Frizzle Fry]

I need to drive it for a least a week to justify all this work

[Frizzle Fry]

Here's some good info on them.
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[65Pickup]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Here's some good info on them.
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Thanks for the extra info, amazing technology. Very cool that your implementing this equipment on your Harry Potter car, yours is gonna fly too...I know its an Anglia. Nothing but a video will satisfy us, great build.