Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[oldman3]

Way to go, looking good...Jim

[hsdropout]

Cool....it is alive again!
......I like how you gunned it for the camera.
You can take it racing with no chance whatsoever of getting your doors blown off!

[Sssingo]

Well I Imagine what has taken up a few years of your life has juyst made for a most enjoyable lunch break's viewing. Just found this thread . Great work!!

[OrrieG]

Glad you enjoyed it. Yes is has been many years, but its my therapy from a high stress job, taking care of my fathers affairs, etc.

[OrrieG]

Three more problems solved. Water temp gauge was not working during test start, gauge is fine (glad, I was not looking forward to pulling the bezel), need a new sending unit.
Trans temp was not working, turned out because I had the tee fitting on the highest cooler line and tilted slightly upward from horizontal the sensing bulb was sitting high and dry. I thought the cooling line pump circuit would have enough pressure to fill the tee, but apparently it does not. I strong armed the fitting to tilt down until fluid started running out so that should solve the problem. Did test the bulb with some boiling water to make sure the gauge was not the problem, it works fine.
Battery has been draining down if I leave it connected. Multimeter showed a pretty good draw with the ignition switch off. Started pulling fuses, and per Murphy's law the last of 21 was the problem. It was the "power window" circuit which is always on I was using for misc. power for the tach, alarm power and 4wd "in" light. Turned out tach needs to be on an ignition circuit, for some reason it pulls power even when engine is not running. Switched it to a ignition circuit and now no power draw. Overall a good day.

[Rods57]

Way to go,its alive....nice day here in ID too.

[OrrieG]

Got the AC fast idle solenoid sorted out. Ran a wire from the AC clutch wire at the pressure switch thru a toggle under the dash to the solenoid on the carb. Jumped around the pressure sensor to confirm the ac clutch energizes when I turn on the fan and the solenoid works. switch is so I can deenergize the solenoid on long trips or when it sitting in neutral or park. Running single wires after everything else is installed is a big pain....

[OrrieG]

Productive afternoon, sort of. Changed out the temp sensor and got it up to temperature, still not reading. changed out the connector is looked a little flaky but no change. Not up to pulling the bezel so ordered another temp gauge to match the trans and will build a single pod for the right side of the steering to match the left.

Trans temp fix worked, but the cooler really works well so it take a while to read.

Xfer case Hi-N-Lo would not shift. Turned in the hubs could not get loose. Finally resorted to the big hammer and knocked it loose. I think it was just a little stuck from sitting 15 years with no lube.

Trans cover drain bolt is leaking worse, I have fought it from day one. I am thinking there must be a hairline crack in the boss that I cannot see. One more try at sealing and if it still leaks will get a permanent plug heli arced on it or buy a new pan.

Tried to get some thin backing foam to do the upholstry at JoAnns but they did a coupon bait and switch at the register and tried to add back 20% to the total . Some folks would have paid the extra, I hit the door on principle leaving the clerk sputtering. Guess they are used to dealing with timid girls....

[Purcell69]

Orrie, I am finally caught up on this thread! I am very impressed with your skills and creativity. I hope to incorporate some of your ideas in my build as well as pick up the needed skills as I go. Keep up the good work.

-Joe

[OrrieG]

New temp gauge is in, same one as the trans temp. Let it idle in the drive, it ran up to t stat temp of 190, then dropped to just below 160 and never moved. I am using a big truck radiator which is 1 inch thicker and 4" deeper, looks like it will be the ticket for towing and crawling along back roads. Need to add some welting at the left seam and column cover hides the exposed plastic/vinyl.

[Kim57]

That's nice.
Kim

[mvitale27]

Hey Orrie,

I am going to be putting my k20 front and rear under the frame tonight. Did you have to relocate your spring perches or did they line up? Rough measurements on my frame and axles are pretty close. Thanks

[OrrieG]

I did not have to do anything to the axles, I believe the k20 have the same perches, etc. because I got my K10 ones from a guy that was converting to K20. Part of the deal was I helped him swap mine out and his in, we did it, including transmission and transfer case in 6 hours, except for bleeding the brakes, I had to head back to Boise. I remember the only modification we had to make was for the trans/xfer case cross member.

[mvitale27]

Awesome. I dropped the originals yesterday and now I am just hunting for lug nuts. Thank you

[OrrieG]

frustrating, perfect weather for all I need to do on the truck and so busy working no time for it.... arghhh

[OrrieG]

Did the first body work on the bed inner fenders. also blocked the bed sides with 180, minor stuff to fix. Also found the steering box shaft has started leaking a little. I am going to wait and see if it seals up when I start driving it.

[kustombrad]

It's looking really good dude!

[Kim57]

Looking good.
Is that your Chevelle?
Kim

[Rods57]

Nice car Orrie, I knew I had seen it around. good job on the body too.

[dug224]

Man that thing is straight. I have much work to do. Looks great. Dug

[OrrieG]

Yes, Chevelle is the DD, when the truck is done, it gets its turn. Only rust is in the rear wheel well, but lots of small dings from the PO. I've had it 16 years got it from the original owners granddaughter. All stock survivor, I pulled the original 283 and pg in 2003 when it acted like it was going to suck valve, turned out to just be compression and build up in the head. Current engine is a 355 with cam and TH350.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Rods57

Nice car Orrie, I knew I had seen it around. good job on the body too.

Any progress on the 57??

[_Ogre]

looks good orrieg
when do we see paint?

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

looks good orrieg
when do we see paint?

Still need to hang the doors, I know I have some jamb alignment I will need to address, that is the last of the big body work. Hood as two small spots, fenders I think I finished before I stored them, so should just be hang and adjust. If the money shows up this fall, otherwise will just drive it.

[OrrieG]

Hung the driver doors and front fender, tops and back gaps are good but step sill was too high at the hinge side and about 1/4-3/8" above fender trim line. I looked at old photos and it was not that bad so i assume that when I welded in the hinge pocket it pulled the bottom of the step up. Passenger side is fine. I got out my trusty die cutter, cut loose the previous weld (I have already done the finish paint) and pushed the step down. Lines up good, need to just weld back in a filler and adjust the fender to door gap. Here are some before (bottom pair) and after pics.