Project 67 DRGNWGN - 67 Burban!!

[3757chevy]

Congrats on the pedal problem , I'm sure you are feeling better . I posted this in your WTB post because I had the same pigtail problem with my backup light. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...24&postcount=4

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by BAD1916

Loving the progress! That drive had to have felt amazing.

thank you! yes, little cold with that hitting my face with no windshield though lol

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Congrats on the pedal problem , I'm sure you are feeling better . I posted this in your WTB post because I had the same pigtail problem with my backup light. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...24&postcount=4

thanks, I'll check it out

[Average Joe]

Nice work!

Running and driving is a huge win.

[kev2809]

well, i finally got around to test some of the wiring. so these ez wiring kits already come with terminals for the column plug, you just snap them into the corresponding connector that matches the steering column plug. a few of them were crimped right at the connector, making it nearly impossible to squeeze into the plug. i had an extra connector laying around, along with the correct terminals, so i cut them all off and re crimped them the way i wanted to make them easy to snap in. once i did this, everything started working. the wires were all in the correct spot, but im guessing the way they were crimped they would not seat all the way in. blinkers, hazards, brake lights, even fixed the odd feed back light i was getting when pressing the brake pedal.

i snapped all the light covers on to make it look like a truck now. so, im thinking of transfering the title, that way i can work on getting it street legal. i ordered the SEM high build primer in a gallon can, and a quart of the SEM hot rod black. plan on getting the window frame painted so i can FINALLY get the damn front windshield in it. LONG way to go but i "think" i might be able to make a show this year. probably not finished...but at least it might be there!

[3757chevy]

Good to here.

[LockDoc]

-
Nobody is going to rag on you for it not being completely finished. Drive it anyway....

LockDoc

[kev2809]

no real progress. changed a pinion seal over the weekend. also ordered an energy suspension body mount kit, hoping to get that in within the next few weeks. still plan on tackling this windshield one of these days and getting the truck legal. I did take it out down the street. there's a burger joint 4 blocks from my house, so I figured I would take the truck to get something to eat lol. hopefully I can get it legal so I can go more than 4 blocks

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

no real progress. changed a pinion seal over the weekend. also ordered an energy suspension body mount kit, hoping to get that in within the next few weeks. still plan on tackling this windshield one of these days and getting the truck legal. I did take it out down the street. there's a burger joint 4 blocks from my house, so I figured I would take the truck to get something to eat lol. hopefully I can get it legal so I can go more than 4 blocks

Looking good.

Air conditioned....

LockDoc

[BAD1916]

That had to have been an awesome 4 block drive(even if a bit windy). Looking good

[kev2809]

it was! i was so pumped i even swung by the courthouse yesterday and grabbed the paperwork to get the title changed over and registration on it!

[CG]

Flow through ventilation. Great feeling going for a spin. I think its OK to go without a windshield as long as you wear eye protection. Motorcycles, Jeeps and stuff where the windshield fold down ... Ok to drive those as long as you have eye protection. Course I can see where a windshield would be nice haha! Keep having fun!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by CG

Flow through ventilation. Great feeling going for a spin. I think its OK to go without a windshield as long as you wear eye protection. Motorcycles, Jeeps and stuff where the windshield fold down ... Ok to drive those as long as you have eye protection. Course I can see where a windshield would be nice haha! Keep having fun!

The law doesn't say you have to have a windshield in a vehicle, but it does say you have to have a working windshield wiper....

LockDoc

[kev2809]

ya i was just reading in to whats required for texas. my windshield wiper is unplugged because i wired it wrong, but i didnt really plan to run wipers anyways. now i guess i have to get that looked at to get the inspection. i think that, along with dialing in the parking brake, and adding one rear view mirror....everything else should be good. still need good tires but i need those anyways

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

ya i was just reading in to whats required for texas. my windshield wiper is unplugged because i wired it wrong, but i didnt really plan to run wipers anyways. now i guess i have to get that looked at to get the inspection. i think that, along with dialing in the parking brake, and adding one rear view mirror....everything else should be good. still need good tires but i need those anyways

This thread has some info on the wiper wiring.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=413551

LockDoc

[kev2809]

thanks Leon I'll dig into it. I rewired the truck and I can hear the washer pump engaging, but the wiper do nothing and gets hot. so I'm sure I have a wire connected wrong somewhere

[kev2809]

got the parking brake good to go today, started on the front suspension to get some of the grease fittings swapped out so I can grease it, and noticed the damn the shock broke lol. these are from a 1950 Chrysler imperial. I did buy these years ago, so I think I will try them again

[HO455]

That's really odd. You might want to double check the compression and extension lengths just to be sure they match the truck's suspension travel.

And a flip.

[kev2809]

it is odd! i took the shock off and aired out the truck. from mount to mount (middle) i got 8 3/4" on both sides". aired up i got 13 1/2" on driver side (side without the shock), and i got 13" on the passenger side (side that still has the shock). so it seems the shock is holding out on half an inch or so aired up all the way. according to Oreillys website, this shock is 12 3/4" fully extended, 8 5/8" collapsed all the way. so, it looks like im good on the fully collapsed, but its over stretching the completely raised up. ill never drive that high im guessing, i just have been airing it all the way up just for safety riding around the block. ride height will be at least 2-3 inches lower

[HO455]

An 1/8" of extra travel on compression isn't much of a margin for error even with hard bump stops. Only my opinion. When mine was on bags I think I went for 3/4 inch of extra travel on compression.

It could just be a Monday made shock.

Come to think when I first redid the front bags on the Burban the parts store gave me the wrong shocks. They were too long and they blew the seals and the oil poured out . I didn't even drive the truck just up and down on the bags was enough to fail them. So I could be wrong with my initial thoughts.

[kev2809]

I searched through Monroe's entire catalog for the minimum and maxed heights. this Chrysler one was the closest. only option would be to get some top shock relocators and try a different shock. that move the minimum height to about 11" or so and the max height to about 16" (at least). hard to find a shock with that much travel

[HO455]

Yeah I know what your looking at. I went with the upper shock mount relocated on mine. But more from the fact that the factory upper mount had been broken out of the frame when I got the truck and new mounts appeared to be the best fix for that. As opposed to the PO just shoving the shock back in the hole when it fell out.

[kev2809]

good lord lol my top one is fine, bottom ones on the A arm seem a little bent. maybe I should just stick with what I have and not raise it so high lol. worst case scenario they break again and I know for sure it's my setup, then I could try the upper relocation kit and maybe some different shocks

[kev2809]

put the 50 Chryslers back in yesterday, well see how that goes.
also got the body mounts installed today. they weren't too bad, only had to cut one off. pb blaster is soo good....they aren't exact duplicates of the originals (as far as shape goes) but they seem very nice. the third picture is the very back ones, originals are rectangular.

tomorrow I will try to tackle the the next thing. still need to fix my wipers, install the side mirrors, and start on getting the window frame painted to get the windshield in. truck won't make the show this weekend, but it's ok. also having a dilemma with my wheels.

called a local powdercoat shop and he said because the chrome peeled in a few spots, he doesn't want to mess with the wheels since they might not turn out great. he said he can still do it, but would rather not.. at least he's honest lol. sooo, my options are this: roll with the powdercoat anyways and see how it turns out. or, I got my eye on some 20" steelies. after ordering wheels and sending to get powder coated, I would be down $1500... which I REALLY don't want to spend right now. I would save about $1000 if I got my 22's powder coated and hope for the best. steelies - powdercoated with tires - 2 grand. my rims powdercoated with tires - $1100

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kev2809

put the 50 Chryslers back in yesterday, well see how that goes.
also got the body mounts installed today. they weren't too bad, only had to cut one off. pb blaster is soo good....they aren't exact duplicates of the originals (as far as shape goes) but they seem very nice. the third picture is the very back ones, originals are rectangular.

tomorrow I will try to tackle the the next thing. still need to fix my wipers, install the side mirrors, and start on getting the window frame painted to get the windshield in. truck won't make the show this weekend, but it's ok. also having a dilemma with my wheels.

called a local powdercoat shop and he said because the chrome peeled in a few spots, he doesn't want to mess with the wheels since they might not turn out great. he said he can still do it, but would rather not.. at least he's honest lol. sooo, my options are this: roll with the powdercoat anyways and see how it turns out. or, I got my eye on some 20" steelies. after ordering wheels and sending to get powder coated, I would be down $1500... which I REALLY don't want to spend right now. I would save about $1000 if I got my 22's powder coated and hope for the best. steelies - powdercoated with tires - 2 grand. my rims powdercoated with tires - $1100

Body mounts look good!

I'm pretty sure the chrome will keep peeling on your wheels even if you powder coat them. If you have a chrome plating shop in your area they can strip the chrome off of them, then you could successfully coat them. Only problem is by then you would probably have the price of the new ones in the old ones.....

Decisions, decisions..

LockDoc
'

[kev2809]

yep Leon, that's my issue. I got these rims for a good deal LONG time ago, with the plans of painting them anyways, I'm not much of a chrome guy. I'm not absolutely in love with these wheels, and I do have to use adapters to run them anyways. my cheapest option is really a shot in the dark. I could sand these down or blast them myself and try to paint them... but I just don't know how good that will turn out. I really don't mind trying, but if it goes south I'm stuck with $600 22" tires. the set I'm thinking of getting is 20", so the tires would go to waste.

the cheapest option for NOW, would be to get my tires put on so I can drive it and clean these up real nice. the chrome really isn't bad at all to ride on for a while...it's just the chrome won't flow with my blacked out theme at all