Got some new wheels: Boss 338's in 20x10 and 20x8.5

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by theCheyenneShop

Does anyone know if the CPP 13" work like the McGaughy's? I believe they too are a two piece application?

Thanks

I'm not sure.
Maybe someone will post an answer soon.

Just bringing this thread back to the top.
Has anyone purchased a set of these wheels lately?
(In 2011?)
I'm wondering if any new modifications to them have been done by AE wheels.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I'm not sure.
Maybe someone will post an answer soon.

Just bringing this thread back to the top.
Has anyone purchased a set of these wheels lately?
(In 2011?)
I'm wondering if any new modifications to them have been done by AE wheels.

Last update on their blog just says they're gonna try again. That was recent enough that I *seriously* doubt they've made it anywhere close to production. Last time we heard they were updating them it seems like it took well over a year before the first Rev -3s came off the line.

[k5hart]

lolife I'll be interested to hear what happens with Andy4639's try. Like I've said before they are really missing out on a huge market.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by k5hart

lolife I'll be interested to hear what happens with Andy4639's try. Like I've said before they are really missing out on a huge market.

I agree!
Seems like they got the Eagle 225 wheels figured out,...
I'm not sure whats up with the 338's.
Especially since they went to all the trouble to come out with a -3AA wheel revision.

[Andy4639]

When I talked to them today he said it should fit with no problems but as yesterday it had a mjor problem. I hope I get better luck Monday. I know the 10" wheel fit fine all the way up to the rotor on the front.
We never took a back wheel off becuse of the fitup of the front was bad on the one wheel that was a 4 1/2 instead of 5. We will see come Monday and I will have pictures of everything this time.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

When I talked to them today he said it should fit with no problems but as yesterday it had a mjor problem. I hope I get better luck Monday. I know the 10" wheel fit fine all the way up to the rotor on the front.
We never took a back wheel off becuse of the fitup of the front was bad on the one wheel that was a 4 1/2 instead of 5. We will see come Monday and I will have pictures of everything this time.

If they're Rev -3AA wheels and fit fine on the front rotor, it's not a stock 1.25" rotor -- that much is certain. Out back, the offset is going to be very wrong unless you've got a wider (much wider) rear end out of something like an '88-up truck. Best-case scenario with a stock-width rear end is that the wheels will be inset too far by about an inch; worst-case scenario is that they'll bump against the bed sides or other parts and not go on completely at all. Either way you're gonna need spacers. Boss knows that this is an issue (see their blog entry here) and needs to quit telling people that these are bolt-ons for anything but '88-up trucks.

[Andy4639]

Well if I have to run the spacer then they will pay for it. I want have them other wise. I sked the sales guy and the Boss guy both and they said no problm with these wheels.

[mcbassin]

Hope they do get it figured out. More so the backspacing than the rotor fit, I can fix that pretty quick. But I don't really want to run spacers if I get another set.

[spazzyfry123]

Any updates on this "new" wheel to fit the 1.25" rotors and narrow rear ends? Ready to purchase and would rather not mill rotors nor run spacers. This is just the only wheel out there that has the exact look I'm going for.
Posted via Mobile Device

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

Any updates on this "new" wheel to fit the 1.25" rotors and narrow rear ends? Ready to purchase and would rather not mill rotors nor run spacers. This is just the only wheel out there that has the exact look I'm going for.
Posted via Mobile Device

You will need to do a small amount of grinding on the rotor hub.
The narrower 67-69 rearend housing will require spacers.
As far as I know,... the 338's backspace numbers, are the same that they were originally offered with.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by lolife99

You will need to do a small amount of grinding on the rotor hub.
The narrower 67-69 rearend housing will require spacers.
As far as I know,... the 338's backspace numbers, are the same that they originally offered with.

Exactly. See my post on 3/9 above with a link to their blog, etc.

[spazzyfry123]

So as I see it, the "new" design will clear the grease caps on the front (according to the blog entry), but... The rotors still need to be milled down? I thought the reason they were needing to be milled was to clear the center cap...?

And roughly an inch spacer is needed for the rear? I've read every post in this thread it seems... It just keeps getting more confusing with all of these supposed "fixes" and revamps of the wheels. I guess I've just been reading it wrong, but I took it as the manufacturer fixed all of the issues...?
Posted via Mobile Device

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

So as I see it, the "new" design will clear the grease caps on the front (according to the blog entry), but... The rotors still need to be milled down? I thought the reason they were needing to be milled was to clear the center cap...?

And roughly an inch spacer is needed for the rear? I've read every post in this thread it seems... It just keeps getting more confusing with all of these supposed "fixes" and revamps of the wheels. I guess I've just been reading it wrong, but I took it as the manufacturer fixed all of the issues...?
Posted via Mobile Device

Not even close.
You can now grind the "nose" of the front rotor hubs and make the HD 1.25" wide rotors work.
That's about it.
Rear 20x10's 6.225" backspace is still an issue for the 67-69 (and early 70 housings).

[brossow]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

So as I see it, the "new" design will clear the grease caps on the front (according to the blog entry), but... The rotors still need to be milled down? I thought the reason they were needing to be milled was to clear the center cap...?

The milling is so the rims will seat. The center bore of the rims is still smaller than the outer diameter of the hub (except on the light-duty 1" rotors), even in the new version. There was a different issue with the grease caps and center caps that actually was solved with the -3AA revision.

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

And roughly an inch spacer is needed for the rear? I've read every post in this thread it seems... It just keeps getting more confusing with all of these supposed "fixes" and revamps of the wheels. I guess I've just been reading it wrong, but I took it as the manufacturer fixed all of the issues...?

The issues still exist. They're supposedly gonna try again, but don't hold your breath -- if they do it at all, I expect it will be a year or more before they start rolling off the line.



SUMMARY:
Even in the latest -3AA revision:

1. These wheels will not fit without modification on the front except on light-duty (1" thick) rotors.
2. These wheels have the wrong backspacing in the rear and will require spacers (exact size of the spacers depends on which size you choose) unless you really don't care about your tires rubbing. They may bolt on, but likely they will be so close to the bed side that they will rub when the body shifts or suspension flexes, especially with a trailing-arm rear end.

[spazzyfry123]

So it looks like I'm just going to need to buy them and figure it out just how much needs to be milled on the front kind of deal.

My bed is tubbed out (about double the size of the factory wells) so rubbing on the inside shouldn't be an issue... But I'm buying them to look good. It'd be silly to have them sucked in.

I just want these wheels because of the "lip" around each spoke. BUT... With the money spent on spacers, extended studs, and having the extended studs put in for the rear... Then the milling of front rotors every time brakes are needed... I'll end up spending more than if I would have just bought some TTII's. Not to mention I do not want to be running spacers with the power I'm planning on running.

Too bad for the manufacturer. No telling how much money they are losing with not getting this done right.



So... Coys or American Racing...?
Posted via Mobile Device

[JOHNORO]

I am thinking these wheels were manufactured for
cars and not trucks ..we took it upon ourselves to try
them on our trucks we all were warned that making these Wheels fit were not for the faint of heart but being the resourceful truck guys we are some of us just had to make em fit
On the front of mine have Cpp's dropped modular spindles which solves the problem of doing any modifications and the bring the wheels in about 3/4 of an inch on each side (I run no inner fenders) and on the rear I have 1.5 billet alum adapter 5on5 to 5 n5 and all is good . please take note that i have this on a 2wd blazer so my rear end my differ in width from yours
hope this helps out some of you

[brossow]

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

So it looks like I'm just going to need to buy them and figure it out just how much needs to be milled on the front kind of deal.

There's a post somewhere in this thread that has the exact measurements for machining or brute-force grinding the hubs to fit. That should take the guesswork out of it.

Originally Posted by spazzyfry123

BUT... With the money spent on spacers, extended studs, and having the extended studs put in for the rear... Then the milling of front rotors every time brakes are needed... I'll end up spending more than if I would have just bought some TTII's. Not to mention I do not want to be running spacers with the power I'm planning on running.

Not a lot of expense involved for the spacers and no need for longer studs. Go with a bolt-on "adapter" type of spacer and you're gonna be about $40 out of pocket. Here's an example for under $40 shipped on eBay: link. I can't address the power issue with any authority, but generally speaking I'd say that if you're getting enough traction combined with enough horsepower to shear off the adapter lugs before breaking other components, then you really should be looking at race-specific wheels instead.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by JOHNORO

I am thinking these wheels were manufactured for
cars and not trucks

Not exactly. These were designed and marketed for '88-up trucks, which they fit just fine. It was after we started trying to bolt them onto vehicles they weren't designed for that we started complaining.

[JOHNORO]

Nice

[djw32]

Originally Posted by JOHNORO

I am thinking these wheels were manufactured for
cars and not trucks ..we took it upon ourselves to try
them on our trucks we all were warned that making these Wheels fit were not for the faint of heart but being the resourceful truck guys we are some of us just had to make em fit
On the front of mine have Cpp's dropped modular spindles which solves the problem of doing any modifications and the bring the wheels in about 3/4 of an inch on each side (I run no inner fenders) and on the rear I have 1.5 billet alum adapter 5on5 to 5 n5 and all is good . please take note that i have this on a 2wd blazer so my rear end my differ in width from yours
hope this helps out some of you

John,

What size tires are you running on the front? If you did have the inner fenders installed, would the tires rub?

Also, are you running 5" backspacing on the front rims?

David

[clos69]

Why don't you guys just go with the Rev-100 wheels made by AR here

They look similar and cost less with less hassle imho.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by clos69

Why don't you guys just go with the Rev-100 wheels made by AR here

They look similar and cost less with less hassle imho.

From what I can tell the Rev wheels are made in Taiwan, not right here in the USA. That's one good reason right there.

[clos69]

Brent I agree that American Racing wheels are being produced overseas but that doesn't necessarily mean that their standards for quality of their products demenish. AR has been in bussiness for a long time and their quality is the reason for that.

[brossow]

Originally Posted by clos69

Brent I agree that American Racing wheels are being produced overseas but that doesn't necessarily mean that their standards for quality of their products demenish. AR has been in bussiness for a long time and their quality is the reason for that.

I didn't say anything about quality, did I? But if I'm spending my hard-earned American dollars on wheels, I'd rather it went to pay the wages of hard-working Americans producing said wheels.

[nlped]

Originally Posted by brossow

I didn't say anything about quality, did I? But if I'm spending my hard-earned American dollars on wheels, I'd rather it went to pay the wages of hard-working Americans producing said wheels.

Amen, Brother!!!!