Over 25 Years Later, Finally My 71 C-10 Truck Build

[hgs_notes]

I started having electrical issues this past month. First it was draining the battery and I traced that to the starter circuit. But then it quit and I figured it was probably just a sticky wicket. But then I drove it the other day and the tach fried and it was blowing the main power fuse to the cab. It would start fine, but would not turn over after you shut it off and I'd find the fuse blown. Today I started trying to diagnose it, put the key to on with a new fuse, no problem. Had the wife turn it over while I watched the fuse, and it popped as soon as she let the key go back to on after it was running. I think there is something in the solenoid wrong and brough the starter to napa for testing. There was a problem with their tester, and they didn't have the part in stock anyway, so I pushed it back in the garage and will try again tomorrow.

Somethings missing...


One other thing, one of the other dads on my daughters softball team is a welder and has his own shop, with a nice big sheetmetal shear and a new (to him) sheetmetal brake. I talked to him at yesterdays game about bending up a nice radiator shroud for me. I just need to get the dimensions.

[hgs_notes]

I brought the starter back to napa for testing today and it was fine. The manager there is very good and an experienced mechanic, and another local mechanic was there also and listened to my tale of woo. I learned that the wire to the R terminal on the solenoid is not required when using an HEI dizzy. I had been running with it connected like that for probably 20 years. Anyway, the other mechanic said to install the starter like it was with both wires hooked up and then jump the battery hot to the switch terminal, bypassing the ignition switch and see if it fries the fuse. It did. So then I disconnected that wire from the R terminal and taped it over. Problem is gone. Must be a bad spot on that wire going to ground when the engine is running.

Anyway, problem solved, but my tach is still fried. Sucks.

Decided to start working on polishing another wheel. Crappy job but someones got to do it, and that someone is me. The first round of sanding is done with 220 grit to get rid of all the pits and machine cut grooves. That was the hard part. Now I just go back over it with finer grit until I get to about 1000 or 1500, then get the polish out. Another couple hours for this wheel, and the job is half way done. Pics tomorrow.

[hgs_notes]

Got out early this morning before the heat hit to continue sanding and finished the wheel. Two down, 2 to go.

After the 220 grit...


After polishing, with my 2 noise makers (the springer is my daughters, the ****zu is the wifes, both follow me around like I have meat in my pocket, should probably get the meat out of my pocket)...


Back on, one side looks pretty much finished...

[67cheby]

great work on the wheels, the truck looks GREAT !

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

great work on the wheels, the truck looks GREAT !

Thanks! Its the best I can do with what I have. I wouldn't mind nice new wheels, but then I would have to buy tires also, and the tires on it barely have any wear. So here's to racking up some miles on it soon to wear the tires down, so I can justify replacing it all.

On another note, I took some measurements of the radiator to have a local guy bend up a shroud for me. Maybe I can get that done this next week.

Planning on going to the all GM show/swap at the MN state fairgrounds tomorrow. Maybe find some goodies for my trucks. I won't be taking this truck there, it's about 100 miles each way, and I don't quite trust it that far yet. Besides, I get free gas in my company car.

[hgs_notes]

Not much luck at the swap meet today. Hardly anything there for 67-72 chevy trucks. At least nothing I needed. I came away with some misc hubcaps and a cool script I-6 valve cover to add to the wall collection. Finally found a bargain on one of those neat old tire ashtrays, and a nice script emblem. Walked through the show and most of the 67-72's that were there I have seen before. A couple are very nice, and then some nice drivers and a couple unrestored drivers.

My wife told me mine was ready enough for parking in the shows, that mine would have a chance to win. I appreciate her confidence, but know her bias. I will admit it would compare well with what we saw, but I never intended it to be for winning shows, or I would have done a better job. I just wanted it to be nice enough to not be embarrassed to park it in the shows, so I could have a cooler of beverages, lawn chairs and a place to hang out with others having similar rides. Mission accomplished.

Mostly I just love driving it, anywhere. I love the sound, the ride, the smell, the memories. A couple days ago we were coming home from my daughters softball game in another town. There was a 69-70 parked along the highway with a for sale sign, so I stopped to look (of course). Wife and daughter were not really interested in a close up view, they waited in the car. I'm looking it over and it looks like a very nice, unmolested original C-20 2wd long bed, fleetside, original wood floor (still there), olive green, just a small bit of rust starting in the rockers. I opened a door for a look inside and the smell was just that old truck smell. A combination of dust, steel, and old upholstory and whatever else it is that makes an old truck smell like that. It smelled exactly like mine did before I tore it down for the body work. I just said out loud, wooo. I called over to the car and told my wife to come here. She's exasparated and tired and not really interested. I just tell her she has to look at something. I open the door back up and just say, smell that. She takes a whiff and says "wooo, it's just like what your truck used to smell like". We walk back to the car and she tells me my daughter asked if she could have it. It's green, her favorite color and it's just like mine (close enough for a 15 year old, she's my youngest). I'm just proud of her for not saying something like "I'd rather have a camry" or "eww, it's old". BTW, No she can't have it, it costs too much ($5500) and she doesn't have the money. But isn't it great when you see that next generation at least have an interest, or an appreciation for the classic styles?

Anyway, thanks for reading along. Take your kids for a ride. Here's some of what I picked up today...


Where it will end up, if I can squeeze it in...

[VA72C10]

So if she finds one needing work....will you start another one (if she helps)? Or is the blazer a possible future ride for her?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

So if she finds one needing work....will you start another one (if she helps)? Or is the blazer a possible future ride for her?

It's funny what our kids end up driving. I drive a company car, which my wife can also drive but the kids can't. My wife drives a 2003 yukon XL denali. All 3 kids learned to drive in that and all 3 were nervous about it and don't really like to drive it. It's huge, heavy, powerful and handles like a huge heavy powerful truck should on a soft suspension. All 3 prefer to drive my oldest girls 93 tempo. That thing is like a go cart compared to the denali.

My youngest will have to decide what she wants when she gets to that point. She'll have to pay for it herself and I'll help keep it running, just like the other 2 kids. It won't be the Jimmy because I have more into it than she'll be able to afford, and I have plans for it later on anyway. And I kinda doubt she'll like how it drives. Big, heavy and powerful. I've offered to let her just move my truck in the driveway and she won't do it. I'm thinking she'll get something like an older cherokee or other small SUV, but you just can't tell with kids. Classics just cost too much to buy and maintain for most kids. She wants to drive, not repair.

[hgs_notes]

Couple updates, but no pics. First, I got a local guy doing a fan mount/shroud for me. He bent up a narrow sample to check the fit and we are making a couple adjustments. So I should get the real deal back soon. That will fix my fan mounting issue.

Second, I ordered up a set of new seat belts from seatbeltplanet.com to match my interior color. Getting the 3 point retractable with lift buckle style, and a regular matching lap belt for the middle. I know I earlier wanted to do something with mid 80's truck belts and have them re-webbed and old style buckles installed, but it was too much a of a PITA. Not that it can't be done. Sometimes the simple solution is the best choice. Total order with shipping was about $180.

Here's pics of one of my side projects to keep the pic addicts happy...

[mcbassin]

Sorry to hear of all the wiring gremlins. Sucks you fried the tach. too. I dig your trailer. Nice fabrication. Looks like you have entirely too much free time on your hands

[67cheby]

That trailer is AWESOME !! are you going to fiberglass over it ?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Sorry to hear of all the wiring gremlins. Sucks you fried the tach. too. I dig your trailer. Nice fabrication. Looks like you have entirely too much free time on your hands

I figured the first year would bring out several gremlins, electrically and mechanically. I'm plugging away at them. As for my spare time, Not as much as you'd think. Came up with the idea last year, got bored with what needed done on my Jimmy, so started out to see what I could build. It's pretty much a half scale model of a shortbed, except narrower or it would have been to square. I did not intend to do a full working suspension, but during my thousands of miles on the road (for work) I kept thinking about it and this is the result. My favorite parts of the build were making the trailing arms and the adjustable track bar. I was grinning as much from that as I was when I saw the first paint go on my truck.

Originally Posted by 67cheby

That trailer is AWESOME !! are you going to fiberglass over it ?

I was planning on sealing it up with epoxy, then just do normal bodywork over it, but the fiberglass may be the way to go. I actually have an idea I want to try for my Jimmy and this might give me the chance to practice a bit first. Plan on painting it to match my truck. I was going to leave the wood on the floor, stain it and put some bed strips on it. But I'm also thinking I could put beveled strips on it and glass over them to make it look like a steel floor, like my truck. Decisions decisions.

[VA72C10]

that's a cool looking trailer! and super cool that it's got a "nascar" rear suspension (our trailing arm setup )

[hgs_notes]

My new seat belts came today. Might be a few days before I can get them in. They look real nice though. Hopefully I can get the brackets to work for the install and don't have to fab to much. Whatever extra work it takes I'll be sure to post.


This is the start of my new fan shroud. I need to remove the fans from the radiator, cut the circles out in the shroud for mounting, cut the top flange narrower to fit (or see if the radiator mount pads can be installed in this), drill some holes and hopefully bolt it in without too much trouble. (after painting)

[hgs_notes]

I got my new seat belts installed this evening and I'm going to try to write it up in detail.

I started with the middle belt and the inboard belt for the retractable set. The instructions say not to put 2 belts on the same bolt, but they also say to use the OEM mounting points if you have them. GM commonly installed the belts this way and that's how I did it also. I bought new grade 8 1/2" coarse bolts for all 4 of the OEM mount points. The bolts that come in the hardware kit from seat belt planet are used to mount the belts to brackets or if you have to drill new mounting holes in the floor. They are 7/16" fine thread.

The inboard bolt went through a small hole I cut in the carpet. The inboard belts went through either a hole in the split bench for that purpose or through the side of the seat where they put an extra layer for the belts to slide through.


Then I pulled the plug out of the hole in the cab corner for the shoulder strap. I chased the threads with a tap to clean them out. The cover just snaps open on the strap holder.


Just tighten it down. It's a special bolt that keeps that holder loose. Then snap the cover shut.


Then on the floor I marked a spot for the forward belt mount point. After sitting in the seat normally and strapping in I found a spot where it would fit comfortably. For me and my particular seat I went in about 2-1/2" from the door seal and just a bit back from the rear edge of the sill plate. I drilled a 29/64" hole (just over 7/16" for the bolt). This is the only holes I had to drill.


Then just bolted the L bracket in place with the 7/16" bolt and large fender washer for the back side.



I didn't bolt the belt to that bracket yet so it would not be in the way while I was mounting the retractor. The only modification to the hardware I made was on the L bracket for the retractor. This may not be required but it makes it look like a better install and might help the retractor function properly. All I had to do was bend it a bit to match the angle of the floor where the OEM mount point is.



I did also drill the hole a bit after the bending because the 1/2" bolts don't want to slide in with the tighter angle. The holes were very tight for the 1/2" bolt even before I bent the bracket. This just gave it enough room to fit in, barely.


Then I bolted the bracket to the floor like so...


Then the retractor is bolted to the bracket using a 7/16" bolt from the kit. It's very snug in there with the bracket angle bent tighter, so I used a swivel on the socket.


Once that is bolted down tight, just put the plasic cover back in place on the retractor, then bolt down the other end of the belt to the front bracket.


And it's done.


The belts work great. Nice smooth action. Nice buckles, the color of the webbing is perfect, nice heavy hardware in the kits (have to pay a few bucks more for the hardware, but totally worth it). Overall I'm very glad I went this route. During ordering I went out to measure everything and paid a bit extra for the extra length of the belts. I think they were 144" long, and also got the 20" length for the buckle end of the belts. They offer a shoulder extension but it's not needed on our cabs unless you happen to be quite short and sit with the seat pulled forward, then it might be handy. I also ordered the hardware kit for the middle lap belt, but never opened the package. It's not needed when installed as I did it. My total cost with shipping was $182 plus another $6 for the new 1/2" bolts I bought and that was for 2 sets of extra long retractable belts in a matching color, a lap belt for the middle seat, and all the new hardware. That's cheaper than what I found on ebay for just a set of 2 retractables belts in standard colors and length.

I hope this helps some of you out when it comes time to hit the road with your family.

[VA72C10]

Looks good and nice writeup!

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Looks good and nice writeup!

Thank you, I try.

Today I started working on my fan shroud. I have it all fit up and holes drilled, etc. Once I cut the holes out for the fans it lost a lot of stiffness across the middle. I know the fans will tighten it up when they are bolted on, but I think I am going to add a small bend od the sides to get the stiffness back. That will just take a minute or 2 on my buddies brake. Then it will be ready for paint and final install.



Punch list:
Polish other wheels (half way there)
fan/headlight wiring upgrade
adjust e-brake cable
horn
Cowl shims
Washer pump
finish exhaust
install closed loop sensor
upholstory recovered
alignment
air cleaner
touch up paint under hood
stereo (eventually)
fan shroud
route fuel return to gas tank
floor mats

[hgs_notes]

Back home after a few days on the road. I did the final mock up of the shroud, with a fan installed to make sure it was stable enough and had no rubbing issues with the bolts holding the fans in place, etc.


Everything was cool after clearancing a couple bolt holes, so I wiped it down with some cleaner, etch primered and painted. Should be ready to go back together by morning.

[VA72C10]

very nice!

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

very nice!

Thanks. I'm pretty happy with my design. I finished it up this morning and took it for a drive. Everything seems to work ok and it held up to highway speeds. Another task completed.

Fans installed...


Rear/side view...


Side...


Front view, shows how it combines with the OEM radiator hold down bracket.


Not sure what I'll tackle next off the list. Too hot this weekend to sit outside and polish wheels. Not really ready to jack it up to do exhaust right now and I think I'm going to change mufflers to something a bit less dramatic. Don't like the drone of the flowmasters. Hmmm, maybe I'll just drive it for a while. The next driveability issue to tackle is the fuel return line. My bypass of the tank causes the fuel to heat up recirculating and at idle it will loose fuel pressure and stall. I either route it back to the tank with a bulkhead fitting, or add a fuel cooler or both. I need to work on that and exhaust before mid August because my daughters softball team wants my truck in the local town parade then. I'm not committed on that yet.

Punch list:
Polish other wheels (half way there)
fan/headlight wiring upgrade
adjust e-brake cable
horn
Cowl shims
Washer pump
finish exhaust
install closed loop sensor
upholstory recovered
alignment
air cleaner
touch up paint under hood
stereo (eventually)
floor mats

[67cheby]

nice job on the shroud !

[VA72C10]

and that punch list is getting very short!

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

nice job on the shroud !

Originally Posted by VA72C10

and that punch list is getting very short!

Thanks guys. Wish I had a bead roller and dimple dies though. Funny thing about the punch list is that a few of the things I did recently weren't even on the list.

[hgs_notes]

One nagging problem I've had with the drivability of my truck is that the fuel has been heating up and then the pressure drops and it stalls. Here's the background for those out there that have not been following along the past few years, or just don't remember what the heck I'm talking about...

During the truck rebuild I installed a holley pro-jection throttle body fuel injection set up. Bought it used, then rebuilt it, new harnesses, etc. I used the original fuel pump. Last year when I was starting the engine for the first time it was pushing fuel in like crazy. I got a pressure gage on the inlet to the throttle body and it was pegged high at 30 psi. This system has a pressure regulator in the throttle body and even with all new parts I could not get the pressure down to 15 where it should be.

What I ended up finding was that the return line was not flowing to the gas tank and so the regulator was useless. Since I didn't have much of a choice, I cut the return line off a few inches behind the pump inlet. Then I put a Tee in the fuel line before the pump and had the return line tie in there. There was no other line to tie back to the tank with. Here's the pic from when I did it.


Now the problem is that the fuel is getting hot. I have all new 3/8" aluminum fuel lines, to and from the tank. After running for about 10-15 minutes the engine starts to stumble. The pressure gage starts showing around 10 psi and jumps around. The fuel lines are all hot. All the way back to the pump. Real hot, like hard to hold hot.

Today I tried pushing air into the line back to the tank that was cut off. It flows and comes out another vent. Last year when I disconnected it, it would not flow air at all. So Sunday I hooked the return line back up like I originally had it and tried again. The fuel pressure jumps back up to 28 psi. There is just not enough flow (too much back pressure), back to the tank.

I am using a blazer tank from a 73-75 truck. It's more square but flatter, doesn't hang down as much as a 72 blazer tank. (ps. won't work on a short bed) The pump is mounted just forward of the point in the frame rail where it turns up to go over the rear axle. So it is fairly close to the tank and as low as I can get it and not have it hanging under the frame. There is a small vent line from the sending unit, and a larger vent line there also, which is for the fuel filler vent. Then the gas out let and another vent, which I'm trying to use as the return line. No other connections on it.

From what I have learned, these electric pumps will generate a lot of heat and that's one of the main reasons they are mounted inside the tanks, to help cool them. My recirculating system was not going to work. Here's what I came up with...


Since I don't have any other connections to the tank, I'm going to install this in the gas filler hose, then plumb the return line to it using the compression fitting. Something like this...


All it is is a piece of pipe, drilled and tapped for a 1/4" pipe thread and a brass 3/8" compression to 1/4" pipe fitting. In a couple days, when it cools off a bit and I'm back from a work trip, I'll be able to install it and test it out. My youngest girl asked me if we could use my truck to pull the float for her fast pitch softball team at the town parade this year. Until I can run this thing at idle for an hour or more without problems, I can't promise anything. So hopefully this works.

[hgs_notes]

I got my part installed and tested it out. It seems to be working just fine. I let it warm up for a while, then drove it around, came back and everything seems alright. Fuel lines are at ambient temp, the pump isn't making that growling noise after a few minutes like it used to. All I need to do now is see if it fills the tank ok without backing up in the fill tube. And maybe tighten the clamps and fittings a bit, looks like some minor leakage there.