1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

All the parts look good painted. Coach, same issue we all face isn't it...project creep vs time vs budget vs desired end result and best way to mix all of them to get a project back on the road. You will do well with whichever way you decide to go.

Always a struggle balancing needs and wants, budgets, time with family etc. Such is life.......

[Fountain]

Coach, I apologize because I am sure you have answered this question before, but what size tire and rim are you running? Frame is looking sweet!

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Fountain

Coach, I apologize because I am sure you have answered this question before, but what size tire and rim are you running? Frame is looking sweet!

No problem.

15" x 6", 215/75-15 in the front, 15" x 7", 235/75-15 in the back.

[Coach529]

Took a couple week break to take care of some other stuff and recharge my batteries!!

Frame is finally painted 100%. There will be some touch ups, because I still have some misc welding to do. Shock mounts, mounting the rack and pinion, etc.



I had some rubber belting, so I whipped up some cab mount rubbers with a hole saw. Cheap and quick.



Air Compressors are mounted, also got the rear LCA's mounted and the center section of the dif.







Starting to look at air line routes. Since I am running a full manual system I need to get a single 3/8" air line, and 4, 1/4" air lines into the cab. Looking for ideas on that. 80% sure my gauges and switches will be behind the speaker grill which will have a hinge installed.

[99 to Life]

I had to run 5- 1/8" lines up the back floor right by the cab corner. I ran 4 of those lines under seat and up into my console where I have my bag gauges. Other 1/8" line is for tank pressure and I ran that up through the roof and down the pillar. (I ran alot of wires through that pillar too and its tricky).

So for you with the bigger line. I'd say run up the back floor of cab and run along floor (if you had a tunnel you could run along that, but I don't think you do. So... my next alternative would be run along frame rail all way up to front fender/cab and make the entry where I have circled in pic.

I'v seen AC/heat ports ran right down here and you can hardly see them, esp when inner fenders are on. then when it comes into cab, you can't really notice them and lastly, that would put you right up on the firewall which is right were you need them for behind the speaker assembly.

[99 to Life]

PS, if the 3/8 line is for you tank pressure gauge, I'd suggest getting fittings to knock it down to 1/8" line. Much easier to deal with.

[Coach529]

Into the seat base would be soo easy, but I will not be running a console or tunnel it will not work. Looks like I can enter the cab were you suggested, right underneath the heater line holes. I like the idea of hiding everything, but I already have speakers behind the speaker grill. Plus I will need to shorten my Lokar shifter to be able to open the grill when in park,

Leevon set his truck up like below and I am warming to it. Nothing permanent.......and it looks pretty cool.



The 3/8" line is the main line from the tank to the manual gauges. Each 1/4" line goes out to each bag.

[Advanced Design]

Chassis looks really good Coach. Hitting the like button.

99 has a great idea and that is how the lines were ran in my 48 truck, with the gauges behind the center speaker grill.

[jweb]

If you plan on installing carpet you can cut a groove in the carpet pad. Then lay the carpet over it, you'll never see it

Just make sure you are near the edge of the carpet, in case you need to remove it
Posted via Mobile Device

[99 to Life]

really if you have the lines ran up to the back side of your firewall, you could put your gauges and paddles anywhere. I'm partial to the in your face dash stuff. I like stuff someone hidden. Iv seen paddle switches on the DS dash. That area is never used and is actually easier to reach. Running the gauges under the dash as he has them is cool. Easy to mount and you'll actually be able to see them, which believe it or not you'll be looking at often.

[LEEVON]

I ran all of my lines along the frame rails, then over to the lower A pillar and up the kick panels, coming out the top and straight across under the dash. They're perfectly hidden and high in the dash. Just had to make a couple of 3/4" holes in the flat vertical space below the lower door hinge and fish the lines up (3 each side, 1 supply and 2 return). I wrapped and zip-tied a split hose around the bundle where it goes through the hole for protection. Sorry, no pics.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

I ran all of my lines along the frame rails, then over to the lower A pillar and up the kick panels, coming out the top and straight across under the dash. They're perfectly hidden and high in the dash. Just had to make a couple of 3/4" holes in the flat vertical space below the lower door hinge and fish the lines up (3 each side, 1 supply and 2 return). I wrapped and zip-tied a split hose around the bundle where it goes through the hole for protection. Sorry, no pics.

That is a great idea......Thanks man.

[47 Fasttoys]

Here's an idea, put the controls and gauges on a single panel, mount that panel below the lower part of the dash on a hinge so it can be put out of sight when not in use. The hoses have a lot of flex to them. Hey, now if you want to be over the top, mount the panel on a vacuum control door similar to those used to hide license plate out of sight. Start the truck and down rotates the air bag control panel. Shut of the engine and up rotates the panel out of sight......Bond, James Bond.
Rob

[99 to Life]

hahahah bond james bond. how about macgyver!!!

[Coach529]

Progress has slowed, partially because of other obligations, lack of motivation, etc!

I truly do not know how you guys do these long projects. I have been building some furniture to break it up a bit.





The back of the truck is wired. Brake, Taillight and Blinker Wires run in the 1/2 NM conduit (grey). Compressor wires and wires to my pressure switch run in the fabric loom to under the seat where I will be build a control panel for my air ride set up.



Manual Air Ride switches are mounted as well as my 3 gauges.



Next big thing to tackle is the motor. Picked up a set of reworked heads. 2000-2200 Torq Converter is on the way.....

[youngrodder]

Looking good. I really like the table. It looks very industrial.

Marc

[99 to Life]

x's 2 on the table. I'd def say finishing a truck takes just as much if not the most of "Motivation" than time, money, space or know how! Wiring routing looks A plus. Weather can gravely effect ones motivation. Luckily we've had a mild winter here on the east coast. I worked on my 49' for 20 months at about 3 days a week and it killed me. Top it off I dealt with the worst leaking roof ever (still leaks). So right where I'd be working always water or ice. I gotta put a new roof on that one bf I build anything in there again.

[Advanced Design]

I really like the table you created!

You have done a tremendous amount in a short time. Looking good.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by youngrodder

Looking good. I really like the table. It looks very industrial.

Marc

Thanks!!

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

x's 2 on the table. I'd def say finishing a truck takes just as much if not the most of "Motivation" than time, money, space or know how! Wiring routing looks A plus. Weather can gravely effect ones motivation. Luckily we've had a mild winter here on the east coast. I worked on my 49' for 20 months at about 3 days a week and it killed me. Top it off I dealt with the worst leaking roof ever (still leaks). So right where I'd be working always water or ice. I gotta put a new roof on that one bf I build anything in there again.

I have a pretty short attention span, so something that drags on and on really wears on me. I like that instant gratification of banging something out quick, and moving onto the next.

[Elder Rogue]

Any updates on the R & P setup?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Elder Rogue

Any updates on the R & P setup?

I have a rack sitting here, but it looks like it will be a little tight to place it and get my steering shaft figured out. I am holding off on placing it until I get my motor installed.

[Elder Rogue]

In my younger days we would find a shot/dead/bad small block just to set in the frame so we could trial fit things like exhausts, steering etc. At one time a company make plastic versions with threaded inserts so you could bolt heads, manifolds etc...

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Elder Rogue

In my younger days we would find a shot/dead/bad small block just to set in the frame so we could trial fit things like exhausts, steering etc. At one time a company make plastic versions with threaded inserts so you could bolt heads, manifolds etc...

I have often thought about taking a dead SBC and gutting it for mock up........

[joedoh]

Nice wiring! using conduit is a nice touch

Originally Posted by Elder Rogue

At one time a company make plastic versions with threaded inserts so you could bolt heads, manifolds etc...

I looked into those faux blocks a couple years ago, they were more expensive than a running small block, but they could be carried with one hand, so depends on what you prefer