S10 Swap how to

[skymangs]

And yes, the book is being published as we speak. It is WAY more detailed than even this thread! As soon as it’s available I will publish a link.

[skymangs]

Here’s a picture of one of my lowering blocks.

[skymangs]

and the mounts to the frame, not the floor. Should anybody want to order joust shoot me an email at chris@olesargecustoms.com with what version you want, and we’ll get to making them!

[Father&son56project]

A picture really is worth a thousand words. Thanks Skymangs. Thats a nice, simple way to make a minor wheelbase adjustment. Looking forward to the book!

Stephan

[skymangs]

We are working diligently to purchase needed tools, but we could really use your help! We’re only up to $425, please help. https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-ole-...customs-reopen

[bL.A.zer90045]

What is your oppinion on rather using a s10 frame or a 96 9c1 caprice frame on my 50 suburban?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by bL.A.zer90045

What is your oppinion on rather using a s10 frame or a 96 9c1 caprice frame on my 50 suburban?

Never done it, although I’d imagine the caprice frame has a hump over the rear axle where as the truck is flat.

[skymangs]

please help, you can’t buy a metal lathe for $425 https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-ole-...customs-reopen

[Father&son56project]

After 2 years of reading these swap posts, gathering parts & planning my approach, I am about ready to start my swap. The ‘46 truck has been gutted, and all measurements are documented. My donor S10 (96 reg cab long bed with a 4.3) is in amazing condition, and only has 128,000 km on it (79,000 miles). Finding something this solid here in Ontario is rare, as we salt the roads like its going out of style. Before I tear apart a really nice S10, I just want to ensure that I have not overlooked any big electrical issue. My plan is to use as much of the S10 as possible (including engine/transmission/wiring harness), with 2 exceptions:

I am not a big fan of the bulky, plastic covered S10 steering columns, so I would prefer to use an aftermarket column but if necessary I could use the S10 column and change just the steering wheel and build a custom column cover the way Skymangs has shown.
I am also not a fan of modifying the ‘46 truck dash to use the existing S10 instrument panel and gauges

One of my concerns is anti-theft features, but I can’t locate any obvious anti-theft features in my donor S10. Its a very bare-bones model without any power options at all. There were also no body control modules in 1996. I don’t have a “security” warning light in the gauge cluster and the truck starts and runs fine using a spare key that was cut at a hardware store and clearly has no chip in it. According to Brendan at LT1swap.com my PCM (model 16244210) contains no anti-theft for 1996 and 1997 model years. So after my long winded explanation, my question is this:
Is there any reason that I won’t be able to use an aftermarket column (with GM wiring) and run aftermarket gauges to replace the S10 instrument cluster for my particular build?

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

After 2 years of reading these swap posts, gathering parts & planning my approach, I am about ready to start my swap. The ‘46 truck has been gutted, and all measurements are documented. My donor S10 (96 reg cab long bed with a 4.3) is in amazing condition, and only has 128,000 km on it (79,000 miles). Finding something this solid here in Ontario is rare, as we salt the roads like its going out of style. Before I tear apart a really nice S10, I just want to ensure that I have not overlooked any big electrical issue. My plan is to use as much of the S10 as possible (including engine/transmission/wiring harness), with 2 exceptions:

I am not a big fan of the bulky, plastic covered S10 steering columns, so I would prefer to use an aftermarket column but if necessary I could use the S10 column and change just the steering wheel and build a custom column cover the way Skymangs has shown.
I am also not a fan of modifying the ‘46 truck dash to use the existing S10 instrument panel and gauges

One of my concerns is anti-theft features, but I can’t locate any obvious anti-theft features in my donor S10. Its a very bare-bones model without any power options at all. There were also no body control modules in 1996. I don’t have a “security” warning light in the gauge cluster and the truck starts and runs fine using a spare key that was cut at a hardware store and clearly has no chip in it. According to Brendan at LT1swap.com my PCM (model 16244210) contains no anti-theft for 1996 and 1997 model years. So after my long winded explanation, my question is this:
Is there any reason that I won’t be able to use an aftermarket column (with GM wiring) and run aftermarket gauges to replace the S10 instrument cluster for my particular build?

Absolutely not! In fact all the plugs will work. I would retain the in-dash ignition though. For those I use 67-72 C10 ignitions. And buy the aftermarket 55-9 bezels from Classic Parts to make them look nice. You’ll need to remove the ignition plug (red=B+, purple=start, pink=ignition, brown=ACC)
don’t hack up that beautiful dash! Any electronic programmable speedometer will work. And for gauges use electric ones with the sender wires you already have.
Your truck has no VATS, Brendan was correct on that. Put it out of your mind.
Any further questions, feel free to PM me.

[Father&son56project]

Skymangs, thanks for the input. Its a relief to know that there are no major electrical horrors lurking in wait for me. I agree with keeping an in-dash ignition switch as a column ignition looks funny in an old truck (at least to me it does), and my Fargo is a ‘46 so it would definately look out of place. I am also not strictly adhering to original parts, rather I am trying to keep “the period correct flavour”, so using chevrolet switches and bezels is just fine with me. As long as they all match, and have that old look I will be happy. Despite having researched the crap out of this swap for the past couple of years, I realize that there is still going to be a ton of stuff to figure out. If only this information was available in a book !!!!!

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

Skymangs, thanks for the input. Its a relief to know that there are no major electrical horrors lurking in wait for me. I agree with keeping an in-dash ignition switch as a column ignition looks funny in an old truck (at least to me it does), and my Fargo is a ‘46 so it would definately look out of place. I am also not strictly adhering to original parts, rather I am trying to keep “the period correct flavour”, so using chevrolet switches and bezels is just fine with me. As long as they all match, and have that old look I will be happy. Despite having researched the crap out of this swap for the past couple of years, I realize that there is still going to be a ton of stuff to figure out. If only this information was available in a book !!!!!

good luck my friend, you are embarking on an adventure! I wish I could go with, but I have my own projects and what not. Any questions along the way, don’t hesitate to ask. That’s what this thread is for!and it’s about to be available in a book, 5 more months.

Be sure to start a thread and send me a link

[joedoh]

the 1994 S10 is a one year only s10 that still uses a round column (like the older style) and no airbag steering wheel.

I would have my doubts if the turn signal wiring would be the exact same between 1994 and 1996 but using a 1994 s10 column would still be the way I would approach it. same with the wiper wiring, but not a lot of chance of integrating that to the AD anyway. Keep in mind that the hazard and brake functions depend a lot on the wiring of the turn signal switch and column and brake switch wiring. if you plan to keep cruise, the cruise system changed in 1995, different PPM and a different cruise switch protocol too.

also, keep in mind that passlock II (the key security used in 98+ trucks) does not have a chip in the key either, just regular steel keys, cut at any hardware store. the "chip" is in the column and relies on the key being turned correctly and bumping the chip signal switch at the right position of the key turn. your 96 doesnt have that, but I wanted to say that for the future readers with a 98 column that say "well I just have a regular steel key too".

on the gauges, the battery warning light is part of the charging circuit, if you take out the old gauges you may need to jump a wire to get the alternator to charge. this is the same all the way through 2003, I usually keep the entire original cluster installed in the dash for my 1998+ swaps because if the PCM doesnt "see" the cluster it sets a check engine code.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by joedoh

the 1994 S10 is a one year only s10 that still uses a round column (like the older style) and no airbag steering wheel.

I would have my doubts if the turn signal wiring would be the exact same between 1994 and 1996 but using a 1994 s10 column would still be the way I would approach it. same with the wiper wiring, but not a lot of chance of integrating that to the AD anyway. Keep in mind that the hazard and brake functions depend a lot on the wiring of the turn signal switch and column and brake switch wiring. if you plan to keep cruise, the cruise system changed in 1995, different PPM and a different cruise switch protocol too.

also, keep in mind that passlock II (the key security used in 98+ trucks) does not have a chip in the key either, just regular steel keys, cut at any hardware store. the "chip" is in the column and relies on the key being turned correctly and bumping the chip signal switch at the right position of the key turn. your 96 doesnt have that, but I wanted to say that for the future readers with a 98 column that say "well I just have a regular steel key too".

on the gauges, the battery warning light is part of the charging circuit, if you take out the old gauges you may need to jump a wire to get the alternator to charge. this is the same all the way through 2003, I usually keep the entire original cluster installed in the dash for my 1998+ swaps because if the PCM doesnt "see" the cluster it sets a check engine code.

that being said, even the pre 94 column is ugly. I do aftermarket columns all the time. If you must have cruise, a $20 eBay with wired in works fine.

[Father&son56project]

Great info again! Hopefully my wiring won’t be too hard to figure out as my donour S10 is very basic, and I strongly prefer this. I will not have cruise or any power options like windows, locks, seats, etc. The AC compressor is missing from my donour truck but that’s fine as the summer temps here where I live will only break 90 degrees a couple of times per season, and probably average more like 80. As well, its a rural area so there is no “bumper to bumper” traffic. The big issue here is parts. Our wrecking yards are there to make money, so they don’t tend to hang on to older vehicles. Because of how fast cars rust out here, finding early 90’s S10’s for parts is tough. The wrecking yards don’t like keeping stuff that old as nobody is driving them here anymore. An aftermarket column will be my solution to that problem (and they look more original), but the info on the passlock system was good to know. By sheer stupid luck, the property I live on came with a late 90’s Blazer that had been used as a field truck by the previous owners, so I have spare parts coming out my ears. This will be a major bonus, as the price of parts in Canada is horrendous. Typically its double whatever you pay in the States.

I am looking for a site to post a thread on my Fargo build, and if I find one I like I will post a link. I will however be asking more questions here, as there is no better place to get quick and accurate information on S10 swaps anywhere. As always, thanks for the great tech tips and the words of encouragement!

Stephan

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by Father&son56project

Great info again! Hopefully my wiring won’t be too hard to figure out as my donour S10 is very basic, and I strongly prefer this. I will not have cruise or any power options like windows, locks, seats, etc. The AC compressor is missing from my donour truck but that’s fine as the summer temps here where I live will only break 90 degrees a couple of times per season, and probably average more like 80. As well, its a rural area so there is no “bumper to bumper” traffic. The big issue here is parts. Our wrecking yards are there to make money, so they don’t tend to hang on to older vehicles. Because of how fast cars rust out here, finding early 90’s S10’s for parts is tough. The wrecking yards don’t like keeping stuff that old as nobody is driving them here anymore. An aftermarket column will be my solution to that problem (and they look more original), but the info on the passlock system was good to know. By sheer stupid luck, the property I live on came with a late 90’s Blazer that had been used as a field truck by the previous owners, so I have spare parts coming out my ears. This will be a major bonus, as the price of parts in Canada is horrendous. Typically its double whatever you pay in the States.

I am looking for a site to post a thread on my Fargo build, and if I find one I like I will post a link. I will however be asking more questions here, as there is no better place to get quick and accurate information on S10 swaps anywhere. As always, thanks for the great tech tips and the words of encouragement!

Stephan

You can start your thread right here on the Projects and Builds forum. I’m looking forward to seeing this come together!

[skymangs]

There have been a bunch of beating me up about selling cab brackets! Well my version 1, 2, and 3 cab brackets as well as my running board brackets are for sale on my website, have been for the better part of a month. Here’s a link http://www.olesargecustoms.com/products.html

[oldman3]

Chris, best of luck with the brackets, you have helped so many with your builds, prior to the accident. Keep the faith brother...Jim

[tlorber]

I have not seen any mention of carpet here, so I thought I'd ask. I still have my original seat riser in place, but since I did the S10 swap I have no need for the cut outs in the carpet where the various pedals were. (I do still have the high beam switch but that is easy enough to burn a hole for). Has anyone found a good carpet source for this swap?

[joedoh]

chris I wish you all the best man. helped me for sure.


tlorber I just buy carpet and jute padding from yourautotrim. pretty good stuff. the floors are flat, I think I even put measurements in my latest thread

[skymangs]

I just do it for the love of old cars!

[skymangs]

It may not be an A.D., but here’s my current build. An 84 K-10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=797542

[roaburto]

I am in the process of swapping a 1991 Chevy S10 4.3L V6 in my 1954 Chevy 3600. I am unclear about what to do with the heater hoses. My thinking is to run the hose from the intake manifold to the heater core and run a hose down from the heater core to a “T” connection at the radiator return line.

Does that make sense? Any help and guidance is appreciated.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by roaburto

I am in the process of swapping a 1991 Chevy S10 4.3L V6 in my 1954 Chevy 3600. I am unclear about what to do with the heater hoses. My thinking is to run the hose from the intake manifold to the heater core and run a hose down from the heater core to a “T” connection at the radiator return line.

Does that make sense? Any help and guidance is appreciated.

are yoo using the s10 radiator? I would recommend springing for the universal 19x22, way less work than cutting up the sheet metal, and looks way better too!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by roaburto

I am in the process of swapping a 1991 Chevy S10 4.3L V6 in my 1954 Chevy 3600. I am unclear about what to do with the heater hoses. My thinking is to run the hose from the intake manifold to the heater core and run a hose down from the heater core to a “T” connection at the radiator return line.

Does that make sense? Any help and guidance is appreciated.

the heater return line runs to the factory s10 rad, so its clear why you are wondering what to do when you dont use that piece. but dont fret, there is a plug on the water pump? maybe its the thermostat housing, I dont remember but you take out that plug, its a big allen wrench to take it out, and install a barbed fitting and there you go.

I had to do it on my 1991 s10 4.3, and I cant find the picture because of "photosuckit", but thats exactly what I did.