Purchased a 1969 C10 Short Bed - Pleasanton, CA

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Wow, that truck looks real clean, how's the rust situation, cuz I don't see any. And a SWB too, very cool.

Some really great advice above. Other than that, if you drop an HEI in there, word is to gap the sparks plugs a pinch greater than specs. HEI are awesome, I'm using the same Delco I pulled in 1993 off a 1975ish.

Rear bumper. Well, you need to know the bolt pattern in your frame rails, for brackets. It's probably 5.0" or 7.1" IMO, and if so, the outer brackets are the same, while the inners are per the frame rails.

Thank you! I actually ordered a used bumper and brackets before knowing this detail, ugh. How can I confirm whether it’s 5.0 or 7.1”?

Additionally when I was shopping the brackets, I don’t recall seeing any different version.

When they come in, I’ll post up some pics and cross my fingers they are right.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Luke87gt

Thank you! I actually ordered a used bumper and brackets before knowing this detail, ugh. How can I confirm whether it’s 5.0 or 7.1”?

Additionally when I was shopping the brackets, I don’t recall seeing any different version.

When they come in, I’ll post up some pics and cross my fingers they are right.

Mark a painters stick, center of the bolt holes and measure. The holes are in the frame rail walls, and take 1/2" bolts. The rear hole is generally say 1.4" from the back of the rail, so the forward hole is 5"-7.1" in front of that. If leaf springs, wow, might be 5.3", I can tell you how to modify what's available. I'm only aware of 3 patterns, perhaps there are more, as common brackets have more than one bolt pattern. FWW, the bumper brackets extend approx. 8" behind the frame rails. Technically, I measured everything Also FWW, reproduction brackets aren't very good, and may need to be flattened to sit flush to the bumper.

Do you have leaf springs or coils?

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Mark a painters stick, center of the bolt holes and measure. The holes are in the frame rail walls, and take 1/2" bolts. The rear hole is generally say 1.4" from the back of the rail, so the forward hole is 5"-7.1" in front of that. If leaf springs, wow, might be 5.3", I can tell you how to modify what's available. I'm only aware of 3 patterns, perhaps there are more, as common brackets have more than one bolt pattern. FWW, the bumper brackets extend approx. 8" behind the frame rails. Technically, I measured everything Also FWW, reproduction brackets aren't very good, and may need to be flattened to sit flush to the bumper.

Do you have leaf springs or coils?

I have coils.

I ordered the Brothers tailgate trunions and will do those before I install the rear bumper..appreciate your help

[zicc1835]

I’m sure your board neighbors from Ca will chime in here I have purchased 3 trucks in the past from your state and the titles / registrations need to be current I can’t think of the name of the designation at the moment I suffer from CRS ….. or you go through the BS your going through now Good Luck with getting it done be patient with the AUTHORITIES Lord knows they have the authority

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

I’m sure your board neighbors from Ca will chime in here I have purchased 3 trucks in the past from your state and the titles / registrations need to be current I can’t think of the name of the designation at the moment I suffer from CRS ….. or you go through the BS your going through now Good Luck with getting it done be patient with the AUTHORITIES Lord knows they have the authority

Perhaps you can register it as a non-running vehicle to get things up to date, then upgrade that when it's ready to roll.
You can also get "moving permits" from the DMV to make it legal to roll from shop to shop, but most folks don't bother.
At least the office in the mall is pretty quick and they've always been courteous there

[68bowtie]

I went through this exact thing with a 70 c30 I dragged back from Oregon. In addition to the things you mentioned I had issues with it being a camper and the camper was removed so they were calling it “incomplete” (you won’t have that). Also there were questions about some missing sticker, hence the need for the CHP trip.

I had to load it on a trailer, weigh it at the scale, unload, weigh again, reload. But it worked.

It’s a real pain but you’ll get through it.

[Luke87gt]

Terribly annoying… it’s a c10! It weighs ballpark what other c10s weigh. This is a typical CA money grab

[Luke87gt]

Thank you for the confirmation

I was worried lol

[Luke87gt]

I was able to get the truck registered yesterday and received plates.

After providing the vin verification form (which cost me $160), I went back to the dmv. I was anticipating that they were going to send me to the scales and I would need to figure out how to get the truck there when it isn’t running well.

When we got to that part (I was holding my breath), she asked me how much the truck weighed, I told her my estimate, she entered it into the computer, and she handed me plates/sticker.

Phew, dodged one there!

[68bowtie]

Nice!!

[Luke87gt]

Just for reference, annual weight registration fee:

0-2999lbs: $8
3000-4000lbs: $24
4001-5000lbs: $80
5001-6000lbs: $154

What a joke CA

[Luke87gt]

I picked up a pair of 275/60/15 BFGs this weekend. Now I need to find a couple more and then I’ll get the truck rallys on.

Also, I’m going to try to get the i6 250 running well. But if I can’t, I will try to find a complete 350 or 396 from someone that moved on to an LS swap.

I’m wondering if you guys could steer me to what to look for, what to stay away from when it comes to stock take-off 350 or 396 engines? Any years more desirable than others? Any years that will be drop in replacement as opposed to others?

Thank you

[MikeB]

About the oil. The industry went to multi-grade for a reason. Cold 30W oil is thick and moves slowly throughout the engine, not protecting parts as well as it should. I'd start with 10W-30, or 5W-30, but not straight 30W. Then if the oil pressure gets a little low when the engine is warmed up to 180-200F, jump up to 10W-40 at the next oil change to compensate for large clearances.

[pjmoreland]

I installed one of those in my truck a year or two ago. It had a ridge of extra molded grip rubber sticking out around the perimeter that I wasn't too thrilled about. It has since worn off from use.

[68bowtie]

Any more pictures of the truck?

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 68bowtie

Any more pictures of the truck?

You know, I actually haven’t fired it up or had it out of the garage since the day it arrived. Here are a couple more pics. I promise I’ll take some proper pics once it’s running well enough to drive around the neighborhood confidently.

I did manage to get the oil filter on today and started draining the coolant in anticipation of the radiator arriving tomorrow.

Oh, and rear bumper arrived. Just need to find time to slowly make progress on these things.

[68bowtie]

Looks good!

[Luke87gt]

Thank you

And if anyone has a recommendation for a dash pad source, I’d be appreciative. Would like to replace mine.

[Jessdigs]

Very nice truck. I'm currently restoring my 70 in Concord. Maybe I'll see you around the local shows soon. Good luck with it.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

I have one of these, on the recommendation of Grumpy. It has a hard plastic core.
https://www.truckandcarshop.com/truc...2/t60_028.html

[1970cstblazer]

I use the Dashes Direct pad. No drama with installation!

https://dashesdirect.com/product/196...-gmc-dash-pad/

Best price is through Summit.

[Luke87gt]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

I use the Dashes Direct pad. No drama with installation!

https://dashesdirect.com/product/196...-gmc-dash-pad/

Best price is through Summit.

Order placed, thank you for the recommendation. If you have any recommendations on the install procedure, that would be helpful!

[Richard]

I have a dashes direct dash in hand that I purchased many years ago before they discontinued the stock style and only offer the urethane. Best of luck to those with the current offerings.

[Ol Blue K20]

I just read through this thread. Nice truck and a great find. I'm subbing to watch and possibly offer advice if needed.

[1970cstblazer]

The easiest way to remove and install a dash pad is to have the cluster, radio and glovebox removed to access the nuts. Otherwise it is easy.