Doing LS Swap - I have no idea what I'm doing!

[EagleChief]

Well, good news!! Sold the old motor/trans. Posted it on FB Marketplace and it blew my phone up. In a matter of seconds, messages started pouring in. We made a grocery run and get back to the house and I had 42 messages about it. First guy that said he'd take it, flaked out and didn't show up, quit responding to messges. Second guy came to look at it instantly, decided not to take it. 3rd guy bought it and loaded it up.

So, this morning, got my order in for a 2004 5.3 engine that has 126k miles on it. All accessories, wiring, computer. Transmission is a 2007 w/ 98k miles on it. Being Thanksgiving weekend, they said they would have it pulled and ready on Monday. I'm doing a happy dance!!

[biketopia]

Exciting! I've been taking advantage of black Friday sales left and right! The power of social media is crazy, I was selling my house earlier this month and wanted to sell of things cheap vs move them, I was answering messages all freaking day!

[3767]

That’s good to hear. U may want to consider changing the rear seal before u put it n. The seals are good to roughly 200k but then they start to leak. If u go this rt, then there are several good suppliers such as victor reinz. Get 1 ptfe lined. They cost a few bucks more but are better quality.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by 3767

That’s good to hear. U may want to consider changing the rear seal before u put it n. The seals are good to roughly 200k but then they start to leak. If u go this rt, then there are several good suppliers such as victor reinz. Get 1 ptfe lined. They cost a few bucks more but are better quality.

Thanks for the tip! I'll look into it, for sure.

[EagleChief]

I'm going to take delivery of the new set-up this week - possibly tomorrow. While I have it on the ground in the garage, it's probably a good idea to go through it, right? Replace some gaskets and such. I'm going to borrow the hoist again to get it in the garage from the delivery truck. I can also borrow an engine stand, or buy one if I need to.

Any recommendations on what all I should look at replacing before I install it?

My list (?):
Oil pump
Oil pan (shallow-er) & gasket
Rear Main Seal
Front Main Seal (?)
Valve Cover Gaskets
Exhaust Gaskets
Water pump & gasket
Thermostat & gasket

Do I need to add the timing cover to this?

[ls1nova71]

If the engine you're getting has 126k miles on it, I personally wouldn't do any of that stuff to it, with the exception of the oil pan for fitment issues. I mean, if you went out and bought a 2004 Silverado, and it only had 126k miles on it, you'd think of it as a fairly low mileage vehicle these days, and you wouldn't touch it. I understand not wanting to have problems down the road, but in all likelyhood, you won't have any issues with what you listed. Water pumps generally last longer than the mileage it's at, but even so, they are an easy repair. Front and rear seals are long lasting too, unlike the old small block stuff, and there's the potential of making problems you didn't have before by improper installation of them as there is no alignment fixtures on the engine and require special tools to install. You can do them without the tools, but in my opinion at the miles the engine has, not worth the risk. When you replace the oil pan you will have to replace the pick up tube, which should come with a new O ring, replace that and be sure not to pinch or tear it in any way and you should be fine, that O ring is usually the only thing that causes people trouble on swaps. This is all my opinion however, you can spend your money any way you see fit, just throwing it out there.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

If the engine you're getting has 126k miles on it, I personally wouldn't do any of that stuff to it, with the exception of the oil pan for fitment issues. I mean, if you went out and bought a 2004 Silverado, and it only had 126k miles on it, you'd think of it as a fairly low mileage vehicle these days, and you wouldn't touch it. I understand not wanting to have problems down the road, but in all likelyhood, you won't have any issues with what you listed. Water pumps generally last longer than the mileage it's at, but even so, they are an easy repair. Front and rear seals are long lasting too, unlike the old small block stuff, and there's the potential of making problems you didn't have before by improper installation of them as there is no alignment fixtures on the engine and require special tools to install. You can do them without the tools, but in my opinion at the miles the engine has, not worth the risk. When you replace the oil pan you will have to replace the pick up tube, which should come with a new O ring, replace that and be sure not to pinch or tear it in any way and you should be fine, that O ring is usually the only thing that causes people trouble on swaps. This is all my opinion however, you can spend your money any way you see fit, just throwing it out there.

I appreciate your input. I just don't want to have to worry about leaks or any issues down the road. If the rear seal will last to 200k or so, it'll be a long time before I get there in this truck. The less I have to replace, the better.

When I replace the oil pan, I know I've seen a few options. In my list, I have the H3 Hummer oil pan written down. Is that a good one to go with? As far as the pick up tube, I'm assuming I get one for the same vehicle that the pan comes from, right? Due to my lack of knowledge, would I get an oil pump, pickup tube, and pan from the same type of vehicle - whatever that may be?

[ls1nova71]

Most parts on an LS engine will go 200k with ease. As for the oil pan, the Hummer pan, or the "Muscle Car" pan as GM calls it is about an inch or so shallower than the truck pan, and may hang down a tad below the crossmember depending on mounts, so as long as you're not slammed on the ground will work fine. If you buy the oil pan as a kit, the pick up tube will come with it, which is what i would recommend.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Most parts on an LS engine will go 200k with ease. As for the oil pan, the Hummer pan, or the "Muscle Car" pan as GM calls it is about an inch or so shallower than the truck pan, and may hang down a tad below the crossmember depending on mounts, so as long as you're not slammed on the ground will work fine.

An inch doesn't sound like much, but I know can be a lot, as well. My truck is dropped 3.5"/5" with spindles, springs. What's a good pan to use for that? I'm assuming the truck pan won't work, but maybe it will?

[ls1nova71]

It depends on your mounts somewhat. The Hummer pan is what I use in my trucks that are similarly lowered and have never had any problems. If you want a shallower pan, the CTS-V pan is what you want, but it's a much more expensive pan for some reason.

[biketopia]

LS1 Nova hit the nail on the head. If you aren't going to open it up enough to do a cam or something, I would replace the oil pan and go on with the swap. A h3/GM muscle car pan are good options, holley 302-1 is another popular choice, as well as a 98-01 F body pan. You can find the f body pans with pick up and windage tray for like 150 bucks if you look in the right places. Also, need to source a dip stick and tube for the application the pan is for, GM made many many variations. Here is a good source of pan info https://www.improvedracing.com/gm-ls-oil-pan-dimensions

My sierra had 197k on it when I pulled the heads to swap a cam and the cylinders looks great. So I wouldn't be scared of anything on your list. Both the front and rear crank seals can be replaced easily enough on the engine, as long as you don't remove the cover, if you remove the timing or rear cover you should pick up a set of alignment tools, they're cheap and easy enough to find or rent *note install the seal AFTER aligning the cover*. I'd reuse the valve cover gaskets if you're pulling them to inspect, I have many times and they are fine. I reused water pump gaskets before and they seal up good, no reason to pull that unless you're going to pull the timing cover and r&r the oil pump, which I don't think is 100% needed. If you go that far you need a new balancer bolt, and they get torqued to like 70ftlb's then another 270*

Look at the rear most bolts on the exhaust manifolds, they always break. Pull all the bolts, others might break too. Any that do that aren't flush should back out with vise grips. Any broken off flush, weld a nut to them and pull them out, easy peasy. Dorman makes a manifold bolt kit, works great, get the metal GM style manifold gaskets, the fiber ones suck.

I'd do plugs and wires if they look OE, check the exhaust manifolds and R&R with new metal gaskets and bolts, remove the little plastic/foam cover on the back of the intake the makes it a pain in the ass to r&r the oil sender, and watch the OPS when you swing the motor in!!

[EagleChief]

Thanks guys! That makes me feel better!

[gmc684x4]

One tip I seen on manifold bolts is to tighten slightly then back off by wrench and do not use impact on them until they are all broken loose

The guy would tighten then loosen then re tighten all bolts in exhaust manifold before he would remove them his theory was keep the manafold as flat as it could be until all bolts could move and lesson binding

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by gmc684x4

One tip I seen on manifold bolts is to tighten slightly then back off by wrench and do not use impact on them until they are all broken loose

The guy would tighten then loosen then re tighten all bolts in exhaust manifold before he would remove them his theory was keep the manafold as flat as it could be until all bolts could move and lesson binding

Good point, definitely break all the good ones loose by hand. I've never tightened then loosened on the LS's, just get on em square, smooth even pull. If they break then usually it's just the head and a stud remover like this https://www.amazon.com/Kauplus-Metri...omotive&sr=1-8 grips them walks em right out. Dorman 03413B is what you want for the bolt kit. No need to get anything fancier than those unless you like spending money. Also GM 12617944 for the manifold gaskets, you'll need two.

[EagleChief]

Took delivery of the new (to me) setup this past Thursday! I got everything with it, too. All wires, computers, hookups, O2 sensors (and the exhaust pipes they are attached to), gas pedal, front accessories - all of it.

Now, since I have no idea what I'm doing, it's time to figure out what I need to do now.

I still have to get the old crossmember out. It was welded in, so I need to figure out how to get under there and cut it out with my grinder. After that, I'm guessing I can go ahead and get the motor/trans in the truck, right? Then I can go through and wire everything and do the fuel lines/setup? Main reason I'd like to go that route - I borrowed the engine hoist, and my friend is going to need it before long to do work on one of his cars.

[EagleChief]

Required pictures...

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

Required pictures...

nice ill be following along and taking notes...i will be doing the same swap soon

[Captainfab]

What crossmember is welded in?

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What crossmember is welded in?

Whoever did the motor/trans swap before I got it, moved the transmission crossmember and welded it to the frame - not very well, I might add. of the 4 welds that are on there, 1 on each side was broke loose already. I just need to get under there and grind off the other welds to take it out.

[Captainfab]

So it is the trans crossmember? Try not to ruin it as you can use it for your new engine and trans.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

So it is the trans crossmember? Try not to ruin it as you can use it for your new engine and trans.

I thought about that, but it wasn't quite right with the 700r4 that was in it. I tried pulling the trans pan to drain the fluid and couldn't get to the rear bolts due to clearance with the crossmember. I already picked up an aftermarket member from CJ Pony Parts. Got it on a Black Friday sale for $50. It bolts in to the OEM location, but is formed to fit the 4l60e/80e transmissions - specifically for LS swaps.

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

I thought about that, but it wasn't quite right with the 700r4 that was in it. I tried pulling the trans pan to drain the fluid and couldn't get to the rear bolts due to clearance with the crossmember. I already picked up an aftermarket member from CJ Pony Parts. Got it on a Black Friday sale for $50. It bolts in to the OEM location, but is formed to fit the 4l60e/80e transmissions - specifically for LS swaps.

I bought one of those but ended up modifying it to more conveniently route the exhaust.

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

Took delivery of the new (to me) setup this past Thursday! I got everything with it, too. All wires, computers, hookups, O2 sensors (and the exhaust pipes they are attached to), gas pedal, front accessories - all of it.

Now, since I have no idea what I'm doing, it's time to figure out what I need to do now.

I still have to get the old crossmember out. It was welded in, so I need to figure out how to get under there and cut it out with my grinder. After that, I'm guessing I can go ahead and get the motor/trans in the truck, right? Then I can go through and wire everything and do the fuel lines/setup? Main reason I'd like to go that route - I borrowed the engine hoist, and my friend is going to need it before long to do work on one of his cars.

maybe i missed it but what swap mounts for the motor will you be using?

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by kev2809

maybe i missed it but what swap mounts for the motor will you be using?

Got some mounts from ICT Billet. I don't know anything about them, or if they are any good. But, I figured for $35, it wouldn't hurt to try them. They have multiple mounting points for forward/rear adjustment.

https://www.amazon.com/Billet-Bracke...t-items&sr=1-1

[EagleChief]

Got the transmission crossmember cut out over the weekend. Went to mount my adapter plates to the engine, and realized the "norm" for this process (I guess) - I'm going to have to remove the a/c compressor. I knew it would be an issue, as I've read about it before, but I was hopeful that I would get lucky.

Anyway, I think that's all I need to do, right. Pull the a/c compressor and bracket, pull the exhaust manifolds off, and fit the motor in?