57 Chevy Wagon - Californa Dreamin'

[Vic1947]

I'm out of argon until Thursday, so I've been tinkering around with other stuff. Made the cover for the bottom of the liftgate where it was all rotted out. Then moved on to the latch on the passenger side.

Cut out the section on the left rear door where the door handle attaches and moved it to the front of the right rear door. Then cut and trimmed the metal from the back of the left rear door where the latch mounts.

I'll need to do some serious patching, but this is the side you'll see when you open the door, so I want it to look nice.

[mongocanfly]

very nice.....doing some good fab work

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

very nice.....doing some good fab work

Thanks, Mongo. It's been a pleasant surprise to see how things have gone. I keep waiting for the crap to hit the rotating air mover.

Good buddy Vern came by today and we went down to the welding supply and loaded up on argon. So I had no excuse for not working this afternoon. I grafted the latch mount to some 18 gauge sheetmetal. I still had a gap too big to bridge on one side so I had to scab a thin piece of material onto it, but it's good to go now. Once I get it welded into place, I'll continue covering the bottom hinge recess which will give me a nice smooth jamb when the door opens.

[cornerstone]

I hate to be Mr. Redundant again, but o-well, here goes.... your work is inspiring Vic! It’s quarter to 2 in the morning and I want to slip out to the garage and weld something! Don’t worry, I’m sure it will pass once I get out of bed.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by cornerstone

I hate to be Mr. Redundant again, but o-well, here goes.... your work is inspiring Vic! It’s quarter to 2 in the morning and I want to slip out to the garage and weld something! Don’t worry, I’m sure it will pass once I get out of bed.

Thanks, Brian. At my age, the only thing I do at 2am is stagger to the bathroom.

As expected, things were going entirely too well. I was nearly ready to tack some panels in when it occurred to me that I hadn't checked how the window channels fit after all the changes. With the everything positioned, I used a straightedge to approximate the location of the front channel and it looked like there would be problems. So I dug the vertical rigid channels out of the spare parts box and installed them in the stock locations, Sure enough, the latch was up against the front channel.

The latch needs to move out about 1/8" further than where it's currently mocked up. Of course, that small amount is just enough to keep it from closing into the upper hinge pocket as I'd planned. None of this is a deal breaker, just have to add some material and move some stuff around. The problem is more cosmetic than anything. Now, instead of a nice flat, smooth surface, the jamb will have a small hump to it. I can transition the step to camouflage it somewhat, but it will look a little less like an OEM fit.

[bevis1]

Back seat people don't need to open no stinkin' windows!

[rustytruck50]

Great fab skills, Vic!

[Lokin4AReason]

nice work ....

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Omg, I’d be ready to give up already and unfortunately for you your in box would be full. lOL!

I'm too far gone to give up, Mike. Gotta see it thru now.

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Great fab skills, Vic!

Thanks, Doug!

Originally Posted by Lokin4AReason

nice work ....

Thanks very much!

Not exactly sure how I ended up back working on the suicide door... maybe the argon gas diverted me, but I've been making some progress with the latch and striker. After a couple of tries, I got the striker mounting plate tacked up pretty much where it needed to be. The striker plate is angled slightly in several directions. I used the front door striker as a reference and between the tape measure and the angle finder I managed to get it close enough to latch.

Nearly had heart failure the first time it actually latched, though. Couldn't get the door back open. Finally had to loosen the hinge bolts to get enough slack to get past where it was hanging up. I figured out it was "over latching" for lack of a better explanation. After the safety latch and the full latch, it would continue in about another half tooth and wedge itself tight. I hope adding rubber cushions in the correct locations will keep it from closing too far. Right now I'm just being careful.

Welded out the pocket where the striker fits as well as the panel on the door where the latch bolts. I'm not completely finished, but it's good enough to stop off and get back on the liftgate/tailgate.

Got word yesterday that the chassis is in production and will be finished next week. It was going to cost $1800 to crate and ship it to a terminal about 35 miles from the house so I told them I'd come and pick it up when it's done. Even with expenses and sales tax I'll save a bundle.

[swamp rat]

Sweet! I went Deja Vu moment when you said the door got stuck, I had that happen on my truck trying to align the door, just the same way, it went in too far, I ended up having to use a tire iron on the inside to lift the door a little and give the door a shoulder nudge, and I scratched some paint in the process, so just in case I went and bought a couple of the air wedge's that pump up with a little hand held bulb, they are thin enough to fit under the door, just in case because it was hell getting that door back open.

[mongocanfly]

that looks really good Vic.....

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I went Deja Vu moment when you said the door got stuck...

I remember that incident now that you mentioned it. And your relief when you finally got it open!

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

that looks really good Vic.....

Thanks, Greg!

I promised a video of the door operation when I got the latch hardware grafted in place and adjusted, so here it is...

Suicide door latch - YouTube

[mongocanfly]

That looks great Vic!!!...very impressive....nice video.....how far does the door open?

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

That looks great vic!!!...very impressive....nice video.....how far does the door open?

According to the protractor, about 60 degrees. The manufacturer advertises them as 90 degree hinges, but I couldn't move them any further forward without creating big headaches. 60 degrees gives you plenty of room to get in and sit down, though.

[Advanced Design]

Nice work Vic. Good video too. Guessing the second door will go more quickly?

[rustytruck50]

Like it lots!!!

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks great Vic, very nice job.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Nice work Vic. Good video too. Guessing the second door will go more quickly?

I hope so! If nothing else, I have a better idea of where to make the cuts so it reduces the patchwork.

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Like it lots!!!

Thanks, Doug.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Looks great Vic, very nice job.

Thanks, Dale.

It took me longer than I thought it would to revise the location for the door lock. I'd cut out the inner door panel where the bell crank originally sat. So I ended up tacking it back in along with some additional sheetmetal. This allowed me to move the bell crank down about 1.25" which lined it up better with the lock actuator on the latch. I sectioned and spliced the latch rod to get the length and orientation I needed. Works nicely there. I think rather than splice the threaded lock rod that the knob screws onto, I'll machine some extra long billet aluminum knobs. That will allow me to drill and tap the 6-40 thread it needs to mate to the rod. The ones you see for sale seem to have 10-24 threads... why I don't know since that's nowhere close.

I also trimmed and tacked the inner door handle mounting area back in. I overdid it when I cut it out, but it was simple to reattach the part I need. The assembly is backward for the latch operation. The handle arm moves forward, but the latch arm needs to move the other direction. I could swap the mechanism from the other side, but then to open the door, the passenger would have to push down on the handle to make it work which is opposite what you expect. So I'll machine a small pulley, attach it toward the rear of the arm and loop a wire cable around it going to the latch actuator. Should work.

The work on the liftgate is pretty much complete. I used a combination of welding, all metal filler and panel adhesive to repair it, so it's a bit of a Frankenstein. I reinstalled it and formed the 1/8 x 1/4 flat bar I'll use to weld the it to the tailgate. I'll confess I wasn't aware that the sedan deliveries came with a one piece tailgate. I did some research on them and it appears they're somewhat rare. There's a one piece tailgate, complete with hinges, that's very restorable on eBay but the seller has a starting bid of $1200 and only local pickup. So I'll be making my own version. When I get done, I'll have about $250 in it which is a lot easier on my wallet.

[Ol Blue K20]

Its coming along nicely. It's gonna be pretty cool.

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

Its coming along nicely. It's gonna be pretty cool.

Thanks, Dale. Been a couple of weeks since I last posted, but they were pretty eventful. Kathy and I had to make an unplanned trip to Houston to attend a funeral which set me back almost a week. And just prior to our leaving, the Roadster Shop called to say the chassis for the wagon was ready to pickup. So a good buddy and I went up a little north of Chicago and trailer'd it home Thursday and Friday of this week.

In between all the seat time on the road, I started welding the liftgate to the tailgate. I currently have the 1/8 x 1/4 1018 strip done as well as tacking in some 1 x 1 temporary braces. Still need to plate the sides, but I've tested it and it works. I'll have to admit, it's heavier than I thought it would be. And that's without the glass or latch hardware in it. I'm not so sure anymore that the gas struts will hold it up. For the test, I reinstalled the stock sliding supports and they will work in the event the gas ones don't. Obviously, the factory had a good reason for using heavier hinges and torsion rods on the sedan deliveries. When I get all the welding finished on the tailgate and the latch hardware in it, I'll post a video of how it works.

At the bottom is a photo of the chassis. Right before we got to the Roadster Shop, we drove thru about 6 miles of hail. It was really banging the truck and I was sure we'd have dents everywhere, but we escaped unscathed. The clouds parted and it was about 65 degrees while we loaded the chassis. Then the front caught back up with us and we were in rain and freezing weather for a couple of hundred miles on the way home. Tail end of the "bomb cyclone" I guess. The guys at RS gave me a can of Gibbs oil to wipe the chassis down when I got home which worked great. They'd already oiled most of it prior to delivery, so there was only a little surface rust in a few places. Mainly where they used a disc sander. Overall, it looks killer. It will be in the way somewhat until I can separate the body from the existing chassis, but it's a small price to pay.

[mongocanfly]

chassis looks great Vic....

[Ol Blue K20]

X2 on the chassis. The tail gate is coming together nicely too. I believe you can buy the gas struts in different strengths too (weight they'll hold). It may be worth a call to the manufacturer.

[mongocanfly]

Thing about those gas struts is the stouter you get them ,the more pressure it takes to close it...could easily bend something if you went overkill...

[swamp rat]

Digging the chassis! The way my legs are going I’m tempted to do the same with my rat, still kicking myself for installing a 4” lift 😊

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

chassis looks great Vic....

Thanks, Greg.

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

X2 on the chassis. The tail gate is coming together nicely too. I believe you can buy the gas struts in different strengths too (weight they'll hold). It may be worth a call to the manufacturer.

Thanks, Dale.

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Thing about those gas struts is the stouter you get them ,the more pressure it takes to close it...could easily bend something if you went overkill...

I'm inclined to agree with you, Greg. The hinges and liftgate are pretty flimsy and could possibly bend if they see too much torque. The stock support mounting points are only about 4" down from the flat area where the hinges attach. From there to the bottom of the tailgate is another 32" which gives approximately an 8:1 ratio. That's a lot of leverage when you pull down on the gate to close it. Too much resistance and something has to give. The big unknown for me is how much the glass will stiffen up the liftgate frame. For now I'll stick with the old supports and when I get everything assembled, I'll test the Madmooks gas struts and see how they do. If they're not up to the task or the one piece tailgate doesn't close properly, I'll buy some new supports and go that route.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Digging the chassis! The way my legs are going I’m tempted to do the same with my rat, still kicking myself for installing a 4” lift 😊

Hey Mike, I hear you. Anymore, I need a stepladder just to get up into the bed of most trucks. This chassis is supposed to lower the wagon statically a couple of inches. Looking at the adjustable coilovers, there may be another inch available there as well. I'll see what works best when the chassis is fully loaded. No matter what, it should be easy to get in and out of.

I removed the tailgate and have been patching up the open spaces on the sides. I ended up cutting the corner off the liftgate where I'd previously repaired it but it made for a nicer transition. The sedan deliveries have a continuous rib that runs thru that area. The side of the tailgate is also flatter than mine where the tailgate and liftgate meet. It would have been a heavy lift to construct my sides to look like a SD, but it should pass the quick look test.