'64 C-10 Stalled Project Rescue

[rbruno68]

I am going back and forth with using K rally wheels or going with steelies like yours. This is making it harder. Lol. Leaning towards the rallys just cause I already have them. But, who knows. I looked back in your post and didn't see the sizes. What size are the rims and tires and where did you get your hubcaps?
Truck looks great.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by rbruno68

What size are the rims and tires and where did you get your hubcaps?

The tires are 275/60R15 Firestone Firehawks. These are actually the same size as the tires the truck came to me with. They have an overall height similar to skinny stock sizes, but considerably wider. The Firestones are apparently discontinued in this size, but are still readily available and more affordable than either BFG or Cooper (which are the other 2 name brand options).

The wheels are 15x8 Wheel Vintiques brand. I bought them from Summit as while the price is the same everywhere ($140 each in 2022), Summit offers free shipping. They have 4¼" backspacing. Mine are 5 on 5" for the disc brake conversion done by the OP, but they are available in 6 lug as well. They are also available in other 15" widths - 5", 6", 7" and 10" in addition to the 8" I used.

Hub caps are the normal repro caps available at most of the usual suspects. I got mine from Classic Truck Parts as they seem to be a bit less than most other sellers.

[Arne]

Was just reviewing a bit. It has come along nicely so far.

[SOON2BLAZE]

Looks great! I love where the shifter placement is with the 4 speed.

[350TacoZilla]

Looks great on the new rubber for sure. Nice overall stance too!

[Arne]

Yeah, the stance is about perfect for a resto-cruiser. The truck was lowered by the PO before I bought it. The suspension includes a POL panhard rod and front sway bar, so I'm assuming the springs are from POL as well. Although the shocks appear to be CPP with the red poly bushings. So I suppose the springs could be CPP also. No real clue on how much each end was lowered, I don't think there are any identifying marks on the springs.

In a perfect world, I'd prefer drop spindles up front instead of springs for more suspension travel. But I'm probably not going to change that now as it looks good, and the ride is fine on normal roads.

[rbruno68]

Originally Posted by Arne

The tires are 275/60R15 Firestone Firehawks. These are actually the same size as the tires the truck came to me with. They have an overall height similar to skinny stock sizes, but considerably wider. The Firestones are apparently discontinued in this size, but are still readily available and more affordable than either BFG or Cooper (which are the other 2 name brand options).

The wheels are 15x8 Wheel Vintiques brand. I bought them from Summit as while the price is the same everywhere ($140 each in 2022), Summit offers free shipping. They have 4¼" backspacing. Mine are 5 on 5" for the disc brake conversion done by the OP, but they are available in 6 lug as well. They are also available in other 15" widths - 5", 6", 7" and 10" in addition to the 8" I used.

Hub caps are the normal repro caps available at most of the usual suspects. I got mine from Classic Truck Parts as they seem to be a bit less than most other sellers.

Attachment 2239501

Thanks Arne. Truck looks great.

[joesscamaro]

Truck is looking really nice and has come a long way!

[Arne]

Originally Posted by Arne

I found time to test fit the new steering pump brackets, and these (from Alan Grove) are nice, and fit properly. Will prep and paint them over the next few days, then I'll install the pump (w/o belt) while I continue to wait for the steering rack to arrive.

I spent some more time testing and fitting the various steering pump parts to the engine today (while iced in by freezing rain overnight), and I'm pretty certain I've got a handle on what I need for this to all fit and work. I'm not going to detail it all here a second time, you can read it if you wish in the thread I started for this in the main '60-66 forum - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...6&postcount=11

Short executive summary - the pump brackets from POL did not fit my engine correctly, and the 2-row pulley from POL apparently only works with their pump brackets. So I am going to need to buy a 2-row pulley that is built to GM specs, not POL's.

Will possibly go ahead and buy the 3-row crank pulley I will need when I add the A/C later. Might as well get all of this in place now while it's all fresh in my mind.

[350TacoZilla]

This is one of those times where I would buy a junkyard engine with serp belt and AC brackets etc. That way you have all the brackets, pulleys, etc and then can sell the long block or save it for a future project.

[justa dumb hick]

Back to the A-833 Chrysler/New Process transmission for a moment- I have some additional questions:
1) Does it mount up to the original '64 C10 trans mount/crossmember?
2) Shifter linkage? Hurst/Chrysler/other?
3) Bellhousing and clutch?
4) Slipyoke spline to GM driveshaft?

We may need to discuss off-line if becomes too much detail, I guess I missed the part where it got installed etc. I'm somewhat ignorant about these old trucks but have sufficient mechanical ability and curiosity to figure them out with some assistance. Thank you for sharing.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by justa dumb hick

Back to the A-833 Chrysler/New Process transmission for a moment- I have some additional questions:
1) Does it mount up to the original '64 C10 trans mount/crossmember?
2) Shifter linkage? Hurst/Chrysler/other?
3) Bellhousing and clutch?
4) Slipyoke spline to GM driveshaft?

We may need to discuss off-line if becomes too much detail, I guess I missed the part where it got installed etc. I'm somewhat ignorant about these old trucks but have sufficient mechanical ability and curiosity to figure them out with some assistance. Thank you for sharing.

Please bear in mind that I bought the truck with this gearbox already installed. My understanding is that it is a matched pair with the early '80s 305 small block in the truck now. I did a fair amount of searching to pick up more info on this, but please don't make me swear to any of this, as some is hearsay.

1) Does it mount up to the original '64 C10 trans mount/crossmember?
Not sure, but I was told that the crossmember is the same as would be used with a TH350.

2) Shifter linkage? Hurst/Chrysler/other?
The linkage appears to be the original from the donor Chevy truck, based on the '80s Chevy shift knob it had on it. I've read that the Chysler linkage is different, with some links reversed on the GM version to allow 3rd gear to be the direct 1:1 gear instead of 4th.

3) Bellhousing and clutch?
The bell housing is apparently special to this transmission. The clutch is probably whatever Chevy used for this application.

4) Slipyoke spline to GM driveshaft?
Yes. Like the crossmember, I was told the slip yoke (and even the overall length of the transmission) is a direct swap to the TH350.

I've read people who have (or are looking for) this box sat that when searching, you want to find the gearbox with it's bell housing and original linkage. Vastly simplifies the swap.

[justa dumb hick]

Sounds good. Thanks for the detail. It's nice to see somebody keeping a clutch-pedal in use. As long as my tired old knees hold up, I figure to do the same.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by justa dumb hick

It's nice to see somebody keeping a clutch-pedal in use. As long as my tired old knees hold up, I figure to do the same.

The guy I bought it from had a fresh aluminum head 355 and TH350 that he wanted to sell me for the truck as well. I decided that the little 305 with the unusual manual gearbox was more in line with how this truck will probably be used. Nothing about it has prompted me to second guess that decision so far.

[Arne]

Not much going on with the truck right now, as I'm waiting on parts. The remainder of the new steering rack kit has not shipped yet. And a small order of some interior bits has been delayed by weather. So I wait...

[Arne]

Started working on the interior today. Finally installed the inside door panels, and began fitting carpet. Should finish the carpet tomorrow, then will look at the seat refurbishment prior to reinstalling it. Pleased so far.

[Arne]

Finished the carpet install today. The fussiest part was trimming the carpet around the shifter so that the rubber boot is under the carpet (to seal moisture away from the carpet and padding) but with the carpet edge still covered by the trim plate. I'm pleased with the result.

I've started working on the seat now, have the replacement side support spring in place, and have just a couple little tweaks left to secure it. Then I'll strip the original covers off and assess the condition of the foam.

[Arne]

Seat spring repair is completed, but while the foam cushion looks pretty good it is very soft where the driver's arse sits. So new foam has been ordered. Should arrive early next week.

I've received a shipping notice on the remaining parts of the rack & pinion kit, it should also arrive early next week. I've also ordered a used factory GM 3-groove crank pulley to accommodate both the new power steering and the future A/C. It looks like I can use the current 2-groove water pump pulley for now, but may need a different one (different groove spacing) when I add the A/C.

So not much will happen for a while, until some of this stuff arrives.

[Arne]

A little bit of cooling system work today, some temporary, some more permanent.

I drained the coolant to work on the thermostat housing and water neck. The 305 with the Edelbrock manifold had no place to install the early-style 2-terminal temp sender (for the dual Cold-Hot idiot lights), and I didn't like the angle off to the left of the 80's water neck. So I bought a simple forward outlet water neck and a 1¼" thermostat spacer with a ½" NPT port for the temp sender. That all went together fairly simply. While I had it all drained I bypassed the heater so that I can remove the factory system in anticipation of the future A/C system. I suspect I'm going to need to prep and paint the firewall where the heater sits, as it looks like the painter did not pull the heater prior to painting the engine compartment. Will be working on that later.

Tested the temp idiot lights, and the Cold light works properly now. Obviously didn't intentionally overheat the engine, so I can't verify that the Hot light works, but I see no reason now that it wouldn't. Maybe I'll go point my heat gun at the sender, that might do it...

[Braunschweiger]

The Truck keeps getting better, good solutions.

[88Stanger]

Arne, Nice work sir!! Sure is coming along nicely. One day I will be this far along... LOL

[Arne]

The power rack and parts arrived today, as FedEx Ground is running Sunday shifts to catch up from the holidays?

In any case, it looks great. I don't know how soon I'll get to it as our place is in serious disarray with people arriving tomorrow to replace 2/3s of the flooring. But maybe I can get started on it next weekend.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Arne

The power rack and parts arrived today, as FedEx Ground is running Sunday shifts to catch up from the holidays?

In any case, it looks great. I don't know how soon I'll get to it as our place is in serious disarray with people arriving tomorrow to replace 2/3s of the flooring. But maybe I can get started on it next weekend.

Attachment 2247147

That looks so damn familiar lol Do not over think the install! It is really very easy!
I did get the steering completed and installed on mine. I had to use 3 - 3/4" DB D Universal joints, one Heim joint and a mount a bought from Unisteer, and about 3ft of DBL D steering rod. Just a heads up, the damn joints are not cheap, but I got most of the stuff off of Amazon, along with a 5 or 6ft section of DBL D for a really good price. I'll have a bunch of pics coming of the routing and placement. Remember, check your power steering pump locations in regards to the rack universal joint.

[Arne]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

That looks so damn familiar lol Do not over think the install! It is really very easy!
I did get the steering completed and installed on mine. I had to use 3 - 3/4" DB D Universal joints, one Heim joint and a mount a bought from Unisteer, and about 3ft of DBL D steering rod. Just a heads up, the damn joints are not cheap, but I got most of the stuff off of Amazon, along with a 5 or 6ft section of DBL D for a really good price. I'll have a bunch of pics coming of the routing and placement. Remember, check your power steering pump locations in regards to the rack universal joint.

Yeah, I'm a little concerned about the column angle and u-joint clearance. But won't know more on that until I get started. I've been hoping that I won't have the same headaches there that you had, but since the base trucks are similar...

[88Stanger]

This is the install instructions from Uni-steer that I used for examples and parts. Hopefully it loads here.