1970 C10 LWB "Blu"

[jhrusk]

Very nice

[rusty76]

I'm always interested in builds and I usually chime in time to time. Thanks for updating on your truck. Some threads go stale and you wonder what happened, then once and awhile somebody will post an update or ask an question so yeah we still listening.!

[NC_John]

Mitchell72 asked for a pic with a better side profile so here it is...



The wheels are 15x6's up front with (I think) 215/75/15's and 15X8's on the rear with 235/75/15. I'm going to upgrade to 18's or 20's when the suspension/front end will need better rubber.

[cericd]

Just found this thread. There's a bunch of great info in here. A lot of which I need to apply to my truck. Any updates to the current state of the truck?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by cericd

Just found this thread. There's a bunch of great info in here. A lot of which I need to apply to my truck. Any updates to the current state of the truck?

Hey Chris- actually, yes- its been a busy weekend. Old transmission and everything associated is out. Got a tiny bit of cleanup and will be ready to start putting bigger and better parts back in.

Its frustrating. Every time I get this truck "completed" and out on the road, I find something else to do and it gets all torn apart again. I am thinking I might get stupid and do a short bed conversion before I get the new driveshaft and exhaust done (again). If the bed is coming off, I'll c-notch the rear as well I guess.



All the steering and shifter/clutch components are out:





All set underneath to bolt up the newly built tremec:

[rusty76]

If you didn't have something to mess with what else would you do? Lol.

[cericd]

Hey John, how did you get the engine compartment so clean without removing the factory grease pencil marks? I don't want to lose mine when I clean up in there. I saw that you used a high pressure sprayer and degreaser. That wouldn't remove them?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by rusty76

If you didn't have something to mess with what else would you do? Lol.

Ride my harley and still have money I guess.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by cericd

Hey John, how did you get the engine compartment so clean without removing the factory grease pencil marks? I don't want to lose mine when I clean up in there. I saw that you used a high pressure sprayer and degreaser. That wouldn't remove them?

I just kept the degreaser and the pressure washer away from the grease pencil marks. They are pretty durable.

[cericd]

Thanks. Can they be wiped over with a soapy sponge like you would was the exterior of the truck with?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by cericd

Thanks. Can they be wiped over with a soapy sponge like you would was the exterior of the truck with?

I don't even do that. I just wiped around them by hand.

[ryans69chevy]

Found your build thread from the 6 speed tremec thread that you posted on. Checked your build out - wondering if you have some install pics on the transmission? How was it to install? Any problems? Any words of wisdom to someone going into an install like this?

Thanks,
Ryan

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

Found your build thread from the 6 speed tremec thread that you posted on. Checked your build out - wondering if you have some install pics on the transmission? How was it to install? Any problems? Any words of wisdom to someone going into an install like this?

Thanks,
Ryan

Good timing on your question- I just did a big write up explanation on another thread. Here it is:

Originally Posted by NC_John

OK, I bought a '93 T-56 locally on craigslist. I think I paid $1,200 or 1,300 including the bellhousing. I think it was a 93, it might have been later, but it was luckily a good one- avoid the earlier ones according to Tick, they are considerably weaker and won't take the same upgrades.

Had Tick Performance do their level 2 build. (I added more upgrades to the base build and they told me it'll take abuse from 700RWTQ easy all day long)

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...maro-firebird/

Our Level Two Upgraded Rebuild is the perfect choice for 93-02 Camaro or Firebird/Trans Am owners making 600RWTQ or less and needing a little more strength than our Level One offers you!

This complete price includes Parts, Labor AND Free Shipping on your T56 (both ways!)

Our Level Two Upgraded Rebuild includes the following:
•Complete tear down, degrease & thorough inspection of entire transmission
•Bronze 1-4 Fork Pads
•OEM 5-6 & Reverse Fork Pads
•Billet 3-4 Synchronizer Keys (with upgraded springs)
•New OEM 1-2, 5-6 & Reverse Keys & Springs
•Complete Carbon Fiber Synchronizer (blocker) Ring Set
•New Front Seal
•New Rear Seal
•Cryogenic Treatment of All Transmission Internals
•End-play set to our custom specifications
•Professional Reassembly done 100% by hand
•One Year, Unlimited Mileage Warranty (details below)

The rebuild, upgrades (viper second gear) plus some other parts (from normal wear) I needed cost somewhere around $3K. I spent way more than I planned but wanted it done right so I didn't have to plan on doing it again in a couple years.

I got a front shift conversion kit from SST. PN T56FSA for $414.95 shipped. (Tick installed it for me during the rebuild). This puts the shifter up where you see it in my pics. In front of the bench seat instead of in the middle of it.

I got a 6.5" short shifter off of ebay "Black 6.5" short shifter stick 1993-2002 Camaro Z28" to use as the base for my new shifter. $25.53 (I welded my four speed shifter stick to this base to fit the T-56)

I got a Camaro clutch slave cylinder from O'Reillys. This one has an aluminum housing while most others are plastic. If you get one, make sure it is aluminum. They kept sending plastic ones under the same PN until we found the right one. PN CS2227 $34.20

I had to get an "84-97 Chevy T-5, T56 Hydraulic Clutch Line Fitting, AN-4, 5&6 speed swap" ebay item 130992050230 for $4.99 to convert the goofy GM pinned hydraulic line fitting to an AN-04 at the slave cylinder.

I also bought an AN-04 braided line that goes between the slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder, not seeing the receipt here in my pile so will have to find it.

I called Tick and asked what clutch master cylinder to use (everything has to match or the hydraulics won't work- it'll be too stiff, too soft, not enough travel etc). They recommended (and I bought) a wildwood from summit PN WIL-260-3374 for $69.93. My clutch pedal is stiff without being too hard with good even actuation.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-3374

You'll have to convert your clutch pedal from the factory hard linkage to work the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch. I mounted my wildwood in line (well, slightly offset) with the clutch pedal in the cab, drilled a hole in the pedal arm and had to use threaded rod, heim joints, etc. to make a pushrod. There will be a bit of playing around to get the throw right. With my clutch the master cylinder will over travel the clutch pressure plate and the fingers will make contact and make noise (google it, its common with the swap). You can either get used to it and you'll know where to stop the travel like many do or do what I did and installed a spacer to shorten the clutch pedal throw on the pushrod. That way if it is at an exhaust shop or garage for something, or my wife or buddy drives it, they can just work the clutch normally instead of having to be coached on how to do it so they don't damage anything.

I used a CPP crossmember PN CLP-CP9424 bought from summit for $78.97

I used a performance suspension transmission mount (have to find the PN).

I got a single disc conversion flywheel and clutch set from Ram Clutches.

http://www.ramclutches.com/tremec.html

My conversion kit came with an aluminum flywheel, which I was skeptical about since my engine is built more for top end, but it seems to rev really quick with the EFI setup which is awesome. Call the vendor you choose directly and get your PN's. I went by this chart, which seems pretty straight forward and found it didn't work with my external slave clutch setup. Can't find the receipt but I believe the cost was $1,600-1,700 for the conversion set. Not cheap.

I used an original four speed truck shifter and trim plate (bought here on the board). I had a hard time finding a boot that would work and the repop stuff is junk (I tried several but didn't like any of them). I ended up getting a boot from a kenworth application that I was able to cut to fit very nicely. And of course I had to buy a high hump here off the board and then a new carpet kit.

I think getting my driveshaft shortened and rebalanced was somewhere between $100 and $200 here locally. I had to change my 3OTT steering column to a floor shift column which you of course won't have to do. When I did the column I completely rebuild it with all new bearings and wear parts. Since I had a 3.07 rear end, the six speed geared my truck for Talledega/Bonneville so I installed the 4.56 eaton posi setup (around $1,000, parts and labor).

I still need to get dust/flywheel cover for the bellhousing, the switch so I can wire up my reverse lights and figure out what to do about my speedometer. I use a phone app or GPS but want to get my odometer working since I am OCD about maintenance.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by ryans69chevy

Found your build thread from the 6 speed tremec thread that you posted on. Checked your build out - wondering if you have some install pics on the transmission? How was it to install? Any problems? Any words of wisdom to someone going into an install like this?

Thanks,
Ryan

Here are some pics from during the install.

Originally Posted by NC_John

I am running the CPP tubular motor mounts in the regular 2WD V8 location. Some guys have been able to squeeze it in under the low hump but I could not get the bellhousing up on the block. Maybe because of the CPP mounts?

This was the first try



After trying with no success to get it lined up, I gave up and cut out the tunnel.



I got it to fit but still had to trim beyond the tunnel at the back to get it to fit properly.



Bolted a high hump and did a little sheetmetal work to finish off the additionally cut area.



The benefit of all the additional work in the fitment was that the transmission is mounted very nice and high, completely above the frame rails.


.

[SKT]

.
.

Just found this thread - great job maintaining the original/patina look and freshening up the mechanics.

Any updated pics and/or details would be greatly appreciated!

.
.

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by SKT

.
.

Just found this thread - great job maintaining the original/patina look and freshening up the mechanics.

Any updated pics and/or details would be greatly appreciated!

.
.

Thank you. There is a ton of new stuff on the truck so if I get a chance I may update the thread.

[saxart]

Great looking build.

What size tires are those?

[69gmcc10]

High quality work, Subscribed!

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by saxart

Great looking build.

What size tires are those?

Thanks. Fronts are 245/40R20 and rears are 275/40R20

[Tork?]

Great thread. Maybe I missed it are there pics of your clutch pedal setup?

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by Tork?

Great thread. Maybe I missed it are there pics of your clutch pedal setup?

I don't know if I ever had anything on the thread about it. Updates to the truck went fast and furious but the build thread got left behind.

I just drilled a hole in the clutch pedal arm (used a 90 degree air drill) and used a clevis, some threaded rod and adapters to attach to the wilwood master. The most difficult part was mounting the clutch master to the firewall. The firewall looks nice and flat on the engine side but it is a mess on the interior with all sorts of stuff going on the way it was formed.

When using the F-body clutch slave you also have to put a stop in the pedal- if you push too far it will overextend the throwout arm and it will make contact with the pressure plate. I'm switching the to the newer LS throwout bearing that mounts on the transmission and don't know if there will be any issues yet.

When I did my wilwood brake master cylinder I paid the extra money for their linkage kit. Expensive but a lot easier and looks a lot better.

The truck is blown apart right now (again) for the install of a built 6.0, vintage air and a power steering setup. The past year it also got new wheels, a new front end (everything except steering), wilwood brakes, hotchkis suspension parts, drop spindles, etc.... I drove it four times before I tore it apart again for this next project.

Old engine out, new engine beside...



Early test-fit...

[NC_John]

Here is how she sits today. Quietly waiting for something to happen while I accumulate all my parts.

[mooseknuckles]

sweet build!

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by mooseknuckles

sweet build!

Thanks! Another $750 or so in engine build parts are trickling in this week. I am determined to get the engine and transmission back in place before the end of January (at the latest). I need to clear up some garage floor space.

[NC_John]

I don't think I ever posted a pic of the truck with the new wheels/tires and latest stage of suspension work.