85 GMC Sierra Classic 1 Ton Crew Cab

[jltait]

Mattman,
Yes just like that, as shown in the picture I attached. I only say I need it because I do not know if I have a mount for the double hump or w crossmember and they use exactly the same mount. If I find an extra you can have the mount too, I am just not sure if I have another without doing some looking. Also I will lay it directly over the w crossmember and verify it has the same profiles other that the single hump. Otherwise we just need to workout the shipping arrangements.
Jason

[Mattman2010]

Jason, that would be great if you could figure out if they have basically the same mounting places in the same places. You can keep the mount if you need to, I have found some new ones and they are $70 kind of expensive but I would get one if it worked.

[jltait]

Mattman,
I will check it out and verify, I will send you pictures of the single hump over the double hump as well. Should be able to get to it tomorrow or Tuesday. Napa has the mount, a balkamp part number BK 6201209 for $16.99. Picture posted.
..Jason

[Mattman2010]

Even better! Sounds like a plan. Just let me know!

[jltait]

Mattman,
Here are the pictures you have been waiting for. The only perceivable difference in the two were in the width of the crossmember and the span between the holes. The double hump or "w" has 5.25" span between the holes that are in the outer flange and the single hump has a 5.75" span ( see picture, I accidentally covered the hole but you can tell how I was measuring. The inside one's have a different span as well but I didn't measure since they are of no consequence in your application. Other than that the mounting locations for the transmission mount and the frame position locations sure seem identical. I have no way of guaranteeing it works but it is yours for the price of the shipping if you want it. If the bolt spans were the same I would actually swap it for the double hump in my k20 plow truck, It slid it into position and it looked like it would work fine for it as well. But I do not want to redrill the holes for the different spacing.
Let me Know.
JLT

[jltait]

Mattman,
almost forgot, the darker one is the doubler humper in all pictures. The single humper has no paint or grease and is a little rusty so it appears brown or at least light in color.
JLT

[Mattman2010]

Hey that looks like that will work for what I need. PM Sent!

[Mattman2010]

I figured I would just update this. I went to put new ball joints into my dana 44 front axle and found that the spider gears where tore up on it. I was going to pull them out and replace them and found that one of the bearing caps was cracked in half. After finding all of that I just decided that it would be cheaper for me to find a new axle with good gears in it. I was going to run 3.73 dana 44/Corp 14bolt, but I found a guy selling a good dana 44 with 4.10s but it was missing some pieces for $50 and I had all the parts needed to get it working.

With the 4.10s in the front I am also going to be putting my dually rear end under the truck. At first I didnt want to run a dually, then I did, then I didnt, and now I am going to. Yes I changed my mind quite a bit when it comes to trying to get this thing running.

To install the dually rear axle I am going to get some new spring perches and move them out to get them to be the same as what a c/k 10/20 uses so that I can use my k20 spring hangers that I already have mounted to the frame, and if I wanted to I could easily swap in a 14b to go to single wheels (And I cant find anyone parting out a K30 frame that will sell me just the spring hanger brackets).

I am just going to run regular wheels in the front for now because I can find dana 44's for pretty cheap and it will get me going for now. I am on a budget so I am trying to do this the cheapest way I can for now.

Probably next year I will be tearing it down to hopefully put a new cab, and dana 60 front on it, and then make it all one color, but for now I just want to get it on the road and then start saving for the parts I really want on the truck!



Matt

[Mattman2010]

Just a little update.

After tearing into the Dana 44 that I bought for $50 bucks I have finally started painting it and getting it assembled.

Sandblasted


Getting ready to paint


Painting


Axle housing painted


Should not be long till I get it all back together.

[Mattman2010]

Well its been cold for the past two weeks here so I had not worked on the truck for a while. Sunday it was nice and warm so my dad and I went down and worked on it.

I bought some k30 spring hangers from member "Tswore" so that I could mount my dually axle back under the frame. It looks like I have about 4 inches of height change in the back compared to the 2wd hangers. I still need to get new u-bolts to mount up the rear axle and rear sway bar.







I then moved back to the Dana 44 to get it all back together. I have replaced all seals, U-Joints, Ball joints, ect... I just have to clean up the hub, repack the bearings, get a new tierod and drag link and then add some fluid and the front end should be done.



I also started tearing into the D70, I will be replacing brake pads, wheel cylinders, and seals, and then its time to paint the axle.

List of things to do.
-Mount engine cross member
-Figure out front brake lines
-Sand blast/Paint Suspension components (Springs/hangers/u-bolt plates)
-Clean/Paint frame
-Install tow hooks
-Shorten rear drive shaft
-Mount Engine/Trans/T-Case
-Figure out wiring
-Install Body

That is just a rough list of what I am going to do. I still have a lot of little parts that I need to find to be able to fully get this thing going.

[jltait]

Matt,
Glad to hear the crossmember made it, Looking at your pic's it appears the rear fore spring mounts are mounted lower on the frame than factory. It appears you brought them down to match K20 braces (the angle pieces attaching the frame to spring mounts. The tops of the spring mounts should be about flush with the top of the frame. When located in the factory position they should give 2" lift over a 2 wheel drive setup. The Rear mounts should do the same, 2" lift over 2wd. K20 stuff drops more distance from the frame 'cause the frame is shallower. Yours will work just fine but you better keep an eye on driveline angle. I stumbled into this making some measurements for the same conversion. If you need pictures of both the 1 ton 2wd mount/location and the 4x4 mounts/location let me know I can get 'em. If you like a little lift then this will work good.
JLT

[Mattman2010]

Free lift is good. I will keep that in mind. I'm afraid I'll have to get my rear driveshaft all reworked. And might have to lift the front some to get it all the same height.
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[1985-GMC]

Lookin good Matt!

[Mattman2010]

Thanks Tony!

I think I am going to get my axles all painted and put them back under the frame to check angles of things to make sure everything will work. I dont want to buy u-bolts just yet because if I have to buy a shim i dont want them to be to short.

JLT, I took that crossmember down and put it inside the frame rail and for some reason it seems like it is going to be to tall. I will not fully know till I am able to drop the engine back in the frame. I plan on putting the axles/engine/tranny/t-case all in to make sure things are looking good and to kind of see what kind of ride height i am getting.

Last night i was able to get the front axle almost done. I just need to install the lockout hubs and put some fluid in it and the front axle will be done. I need to clean all the dirt from the d70 and replace the brakes and cylinders then it will be time to paint the rear and get it all mocked up to test it all fitting together.

[jltait]

Matt wrote: "JLT, I took that crossmember down and put it inside the frame rail and for some reason it seems like it is going to be to tall. I will not fully know till I am able to drop the engine back in the frame. I plan on putting the axles/engine/tranny/t-case all in to make sure things are looking good and to kind of see what kind of ride height i am getting."

I am really quite sure it is the same height as the "W" crossmember I have, though maybe mine is wrong too. We will have to see, hopefully it works.
JLT.

PS looking good, you are making good progress!!

[jltait]

Matt, when u get a chance snap a picture of the tranny to t-case adapter, the only pic you have of it is unclear but it appears to me it may be wrong for a np208. Get some pics and I will compare to my 208, maybe that is the problem with the crossmember height. It looks like it maybe a np203 adapter but it it unclear.
JLT
PS I can post pics of my 208 adapter as well.
JLT

[Mattman2010]

What I ment by it seemed to high was that I don't think my tranny will line up with the carrier bearing. But my 208 adaptor is the tall one. I would say it is like this for a k5 blazer. It is not the really short adapter (by tall and short I mean height). I think I might be able to mountthat cross member under the frame to get it where I want. Or I guess I could find the short adaptor. I will just have to see when I mock it all up to check stuff. I will not be able to get any pictures till probably Thursday night.
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[Mattman2010]

Also go ahead and post a picture of the 208 adaptor. If you give me that picture I can just look at mine and tell. But I am pretty sure this transmission/transfercase came out of a military blazer.
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[jltait]

Matt, I think this is what a TH400 to np208/241/or circular 205 should look like. I will get pictures of mine though. Mine I am pretty sure is a matched adapter/mount/crosssmember.

[Mattman2010]

Yeah, Mine does not look like that, it is longer. I guess I will need to look into that.

[jltait]

Matt sounds like your adapter is for the older style mounts. I will attach a picture. Still might work but you will not be able to use the mount I sent with the crossmember. Personally long term I would try to find the new style adapter, but the mount shown below may work with your current crossmember/adapter combination. You will need (2), (1) sandwiched between the crossmember/adapter at the bolt holes. Not sure this will work 'cause these mounts were used with the old style crossmember before GM commonized them, but it may sit on the crossmember I sent. If it will work the U shape of the mount(s) should straddle the raised hump that runs the length of crossmember.
JLT

[Mattman2010]

I will just have to see. I may try to find a adpator, but I think I want to find one local if I do. I think everything tucked able the bottom of the frame will be better than hanging stuff below.
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[Mattman2010]

This is the only picture of the adapter that i have as of right now.

[jltait]

Matt,
I did a little research. I previously thought gm stopped using that style adapter in '80 or '81, turns out it appears they used it through '84. I had to think long and hard 'bout that, The only '80's trucks I have had were '85's and newer, so it makes sense I was wrong 'bout when the went to that mount. I probably assumed they did it in '81 when then the body/frame was revamped. Anyhow, I am thinking the crossmember with your adapter should work with the (2) piece individual mount isololators I referred to in my previous post. As long as the individual rubber mount isolators will straddle the raised "spine" of the crossmember I sent. I think the crossmembers generally mad for that type adapter/mount have an oblong hole, so you may need to adjust for that. I would mock it up and put an angle finder on the engine, it should sit nearly level to the frame with a few degrees drop to the rear of the engine. Probably 2.5-3*. I am not sure wether the 4x4's had a lower mount for the carrier bearing or not, maybe you can get another crew cab 4x4 member to post some pictures of his carrier bearing support. I would not think the 2" typical difference between 2wd and 4x4 would call for a height change in the bearing but not sure.
good luck..!!
Jason

[Mattman2010]

Im going to try to get my axles done this week and then mock up everything on the frame and see what I have. Then I can go from there, and see what I have and figure out where i need to be.