53 3100 - complete rebuild and upgrade . . . .

[dsraven]

looks really nice, great attention to detail. I also like the frame table to keep everything square and true.
just curious if you plan to run exhaust out the rear? space is getting filled up. sure looks tidy though.

[dsraven]

all looks great. what will the lowest point on the chassis be, in inches from ground, when at suspension bottom?

[big_dan]

Thanks for looking, fellas.

Most every project I build I like to run the exhaust up to the axle, then use turn downs turned out at a 45, if that makes sense. Saves having to dodge the axle. Just in case, I do make sure I have room; here's 2-1/2" U-bends with no clearance issues at all.

As for ride height, it's at "ride height" now; lowest point of the chassis will be around 9" from the ground, running boards about 5", level.

More later -

Dan

[big_dan]

And just to get my wheels turning - picked up a start for my dash bezel from the steel yard yesterday. 4"×1/2"×35" brass bar - tons of ideas now.

Dan

[mongocanfly]

,looks good Dan..!!...a buddy of mine used to build race car frames ,had a similar homemade tube notcher...he used a old Bridgeport mill with vert and horizontal heads on it , and he built a tube holder...made some really nice notches...much better than my hole saw tube notcher...
Framework is looking good..

[big_dan]

I figured I'd better post an update in case anyone thought I'd fell off the planet. . . .

Almost finished my knee mill refurb and a few side projects, so I've spent the last little while reorganizing my shop. The 53 is now center stage and ready to get back to it. More soon -

Dan

[olcarguy]

Nice work....

[big_dan]

So after a month or two of side projects, back to the 53. Welded up the front sway bar first, then pulled the 5.3 out of storage. Need a way to hang it while I figure out my firewall cut, so made a block plate out of 1/4×6 plate with 3/8 eye bolts (good for 1000lbs each on a straight pull) to get started there. Mocked up the bed sides in final position also to build mounts for it.

Moving along - thanks for looking-

Dan

[dsraven]

just looking at your tail lights and it reminded me of some I have seen with integrated back up lights. might interest you so less lights on the back but still fully functional.

https://www.grote.com/signal-lightin...rated-back-up/

good thinking on the engine lift. looks great.

[joedoh]

congrats on getting back to it!

[LOW A D]

Your truck looks great! I like your shop, I cant ever keep mine that clean!!!

[big_dan]

Thanks for the comments fellas.

Marking up the firewall for cutting and slowly digging parts out to get everything assembled for mockup.

Anyone have any input on the Vortech kits? Positives or negatives?

Thanks for looking -

Dan

[big_dan]

Still tinkering around on the 53. Im building this truck to handle, so my goal is to set the engine/ trans as far back as I can. Initial mockup showed that the truck oil pan was way too deep for ride height, so I picked up a Holley 302-1 pan kit for a few more inches clearance. Then a little firewall surgery . . . no turning back now! Thanks for looking -

Dan

[joedoh]

keep it up!


I am very interested where your motor ends up. I am helping a guy with a 52 MII and 6.2, and from what I can tell he is screwed. his motor is mounted low and forward, not out of necessity but out of laziness of the shop that did it, the exhaust manifolds want to occupy the space of the frame and for the life of me I cant see how a steering shaft would even begin to fit, even with 4 u joints and a heim. they used ford style outrigger mounts. I told him the motor needs to come up at least 2" and back another 1 or 2. we are trying camaro manifolds next week but I doubt it will help.

[dsraven]

Mr48, how about removing mounts etc from engine and suspend in the space. Use a broom handle or something for a steering shaft, with duct tape to hold together where joints would be, then block engine firmly where it needs to be. Fab new mounts from there. It's worked for me a few times. Manifolds and starter attached as well. For the the full meal deal.
You've been around the block, I'm sure you have your own methods. Lol.

[big_dan]

Slowly but surely . . . Home projects going on too so I grab an hour or two when I can. 4L60 is attached, starting roughing in drivetrain position. My goal is for the crank pulley to be at the front axle centerline, so we'll see if we can get there without getting too crowded in the cab. More later-

Dan

[big_dan]

More progress. Finished fabbing motor mounts, so that's another item off the list. The block portion are Scott's pieces, the frame portion mine, 1/4" mild, will be welded to the frame. Currently waiting on a poly mount for the 4L60 then I'll whip up a crossmember. Header fab, steering column, bed mounts, e.t.c after that. And for those that were curious on engine position, here's where we're ended up. Front of the crank pulley is behind the rack, where I wanted. I'd like it a little lower, but this gives about 6" from the oil pan to the ground. Set the angle at 2.5 degrees. Thanks for looking -

More later -

Dan

[mongocanfly]

I was gonna ask about the engine sitting so far back..I know itll be good for weight transfer, is there another reason.?....its all looking good..!

[e015475]

FWIW - I pushed my engine back about 3.5" into the firewall and put a 'doghouse' in the cab. I'm 6'3" and it didn't seem to take enough room out of the cab to matter any.

Here's the new firewall cleco'd in

The doghouse on the inside of the cab looks like this..


Your engine sits quite a bit lower than mine. I jacked my engine up to get the headers to fit better


A LS truck motor in an AD truck is a little bit of 10# in a 5# bag. In addition to moving the engine back, you can get another 1.5" or so in front of the engine with an accessory drive that uses the Corvette dampner. I've seen a few trucks that ditch the cross bracing on the radiator support and push the radiator into the support to gain another inch or so.

[big_dan]

Thanks for the input fellas. Yes, I've got the engine down and back a good bit, both to improve the handling and try to get the weight off the nose and to make room for possibly running a Vortech / centrifugal blower of some sort later. I'll probably warm the engine over a bit (cam, reworked heads, intake, headers) and get all the bugs worked out then add the blower after. The engine is low, yes, but the sump is 1" higher than the running board brackets so I should be ok.

More later -

Dan

[big_dan]

Continuing along during this Corona BS. Finishing up little tidbits around the shop so had a wire-biter buddy come over . . and . . now the Clausing mill is operational. I live 10 minutes from Lake Chickamauga, so plenty of bass chasing going on as well. On the 53, I pulled the cab after reinforcing it a bit to get my transmission crossmember fabbed up, then it's on to headers and firewall. More later -

Dan

[big_dan]

Taking my time working on my transmission crossmember the last few evenings. Here's a work-in-progress pic, and yes, it'll be removable. Nothing fancy, but I do enjoy this part. Moving along.

Thanks for looking -

Dan

[big_dan]

A little more crossmember work. Still have to get some slugs turned up and threaded to bolt it through the chassis, but one day at a time!

Making progress . . .

Thanks for looking.

Dan

[joedoh]

looks like a great stiffening crossmember! tall and beefy!

[oldman3]

Nice job...Jim