84 GMC C2500, V12 powered

[Jonboy]

I haven't seen a 4" body lift (unless you made your own). They are usually 2" or 3" pucks.

[cayoterun]

Now, maybe we can get down to some serious knuckle bustin'. This time I'm using a complete junker motor for fitting. Heavy and bulky to work with, but gives a complete picture of height, length, and width. I hope to rough fit the motor, tranny, and drive-shaft in the frame mounts. Then maybe we can decide whether we have room to let motor extend back in cab or what, before we put the good motor in. Using the '84 GMC frame seems to offer more options, and more parts to choose from than "Balaur" with the '62 components and 1ton Ford frame.
Measurements are coming out much better on this too. The flywheel housing came out almost exactly where the rear tranmission crossmember was.
Was glad to find this '78 Chevy 1ton crossmember will be easy to make work for the rear motor mount crossmember.
I did a rough lay-out this evening using the drop-center 1ton crossmember. It will let the flywheel housing drop 3+- inches below the bottom of the frame.
The verticle sticks will be where the steel legs from the crossmember will bolt to the original mount locations on each side of the flywheel housing.
Cayoterun

[thirdstreettito]

Lookin good guy! Keep it up!

[cayoterun]

Spent the day in the butcher shop with the trusty saw-zall.
There's barely enough room, but will go. The cab is still on 3" blocks, but need to do some trimming before sitting it down on the mounts. By using shorter air filters, it looks like it will be below dash.
The rabbit was behind the seat when I stripped it out, so I guess he may as well be the mascot.
I found a late 70? van that I can cut all the firewall and floor out and try to scab in to use it and the cover in this.
Buckets seats are on the list for sure. A bench might go, but would be close.
Maybe tomorrow I can get it down on the mounts.
If the motor ever needs to be pulled, the cab front may have to be lifted a little. Hope not.

Tried to save the glove box and heater controls, but they have to go. Not wide enough between them.
Haven't a clue what to do about the dash, but maybe can use a van dash???
Cayoterun

[thirdstreettito]

Looks great!

About the dash; tell Kert at DIY4X your measurements and about the project, he can fab up the PERFECT dash for you, then you can get it covered, or paint it or whatever.

http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?rout...product_id=148

[cayoterun]

That went into the favorites. Sure looks like a simple answer for what I'll need. The basic dash he has displayed makes the price seem reasonable. That project is still some months down the road, but I can focus on something else now, mainly the "doghouse".
That's what they called them when I drove cabover road trucks, what do they call them in vans?
I sure thank ya' for the lead.
Cayoterun

[jb1016]

I think it's still called the doghouse...or maybe the bunny pen in this case.

It's coming together pretty nicely.

[cayoterun]

[QUOTE=jb1016;4578084]I think it's still called the doghouse...or maybe the bunny pen in this case.

If we put the bunny in the doghouse, uhh-bunnyhouse, after 10 minutes, we could have roast rabbit while setting the points going down the road.

I did get some trimming done today, cab down on the mounts, steering hooked up, brakes connected and bled. The inside air cleaner will still fit, but close. Accelerater pedal will take some customizing. Will be real close to the brake pedal.
Cayoterun

[cayoterun]

Need some help with info.
I know this van is a Chevy c20, conquest. I'm not sure about the year model.
It's serial#: 2GBEG25K2K4104829. If I decoded it right, it should be a 1989. Is that right?

It is the one I'm going to try to use the firewall and engine cover from in the '84 GMC pickup.

It's not a bad van body, real straight, all glass good, drivers door has a bent lip, but is headed for the crusher, so I may as well butcher it.

Forgot to attach pics. will try again
Cayoterun

[thirdstreettito]

As far as I know it's always been a doghouse. I'm not sure how a husband would sleep there though....

[1985-GMC]

Good progress! This way you can set the timing while driving down the road.

[Palf70Step]

My guess was late 80s, but unfortunately that is just a guess.

[cayoterun]

Thanks.
The reason I was curious, is if I needed to buy something that pertained to it, i'd know what to ask for.
Cayoterun

[RandyP]

Yes that is a 89 ChevyVan LWB it appears. Just to set your mind at ease.

[cayoterun]

Thanks, Randy, from one Okie to another.
Noticed your avatar. Getting old, going broke.
Looks like we're both in the same boat.
We're in your country fairly often, maybe our paths will cross sometime.
If your ever going west, We're just off 412 1 1/2 miles about 400 miles down the street from you. Easy to find.
Cayoterun

[RandyP]

Never been quite that far west, we usually turn north off of 412 on to 83 and head up to Liberal and on up to Sublette. I never can forget Slapout OK though, always get a smile on my face as I pass that intersection.

[SledBurban]

Originally Posted by RandyP

Yes that is a 89 ChevyVan LWB it appears. Just to set your mind at ease.

Mitchell?

[RandyP]

Mitchell is estimating software for the collision repair/insurance company industry.

[JimmyFloyd]

I love these builds with unique parts.

I know you seem to be using the cab at it's original position now, but when I saw your original photoshop with the long nose, it got me thinking...

What if you used the current frame, did the long nose, but used a blazer body instead of the truck cab/box? I am not sure the exact differences in length of them, but it should give you some room to play with. You'll just have the long nose as before.

[cayoterun]

Originally Posted by JimmyFloyd

I love these builds with unique parts.

I know you seem to be using the cab at it's original position now, but when I saw your original photoshop with the long nose, it got me thinking...

What if you used the current frame, did the long nose, but used a blazer body instead of the truck cab/box? I am not sure the exact differences in length of them, but it should give you some room to play with. You'll just have the long nose as before.

A great idea, however I'm hung-up on using propane as a fuel, and it takes some rigging up to use propane in an inclosed vehicle to make it legal and safer. I rigged a '58 Chevy Impala up to use dual-fuel and put tank in trunk with all the legal plumbing as a novelty. I showed the car in OKC, had a fellow ask me all about the system, and quizzed me pretty hard about. He seemed fairly knowledgable about propane use. When we finished talking, he smiled, complimented the installation and said he was a state LP inspector. Still, I never did feel comfortable doing it. If the tank got a small leak, it could sure blow a guys whiskers off.

I am having second thoughts about this set-up. It's sure using all my limited metal skills trying to make this work. I'm starting to think the end result might be more butchered than the long nose.
I'm envious of those like Rap-em-Papy and others who can do neat metal work like they do. I sure can't afford to have a professional do it.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Cayoterun

[cayoterun]

JimmyFloyd: Reread your suggestion. You said blazer, I had van on my mind.
Is blazer the body style the back part can be removed, and still have a cab portion left? If the back part could be left open to mount the propane tank, then that could sure be an option.
Back in the 50s-60s when propane was $.07 a gallon, They used it in everything imaginable, cars, tractors, trucks, you name it.
We had a neighbor who bought a new '58 Ford car and stuck propane on it. One chilly morning he filled the tank, shut the trunk lid, jumped in, fired it up, lit a cigarette and blew every window out of it. Propane had seeped in and collected inside with all the windows closed. Luckily, he wasn't burned or hurt except his ears rang for several days.
Another guy a few miles from here did the same, but was burned pretty bad.
Propane is a great fuel, but caution and common sense needs to be used all the time.
Cayoterun

[JimmyFloyd]

Correct, like this:


the cab and rear is still connected, but you could probably make a cover for it. Or you could mount the propane tanks in the front extension part, just to the rear of the front wheels.

[cayoterun]

JimmyF: That would probably work.
This old guy could never have a truck that tall.----I'd have to have some kind of "butt-booster" to get in and a kids slid to get out!!!
Cayoterun

[cayoterun]

Need some inspiration: I having trouble getting into the engine back in the cab. Also having trouble fabricating it.
The hot/rod, roadster idea has been bugging me for a long time. I'd consider an old body of some kind that I could use. If it was an old coupe, I might leave the trunk lid off so the propane tank would be out in the open. Maybe, no fenders or hood. Leave the motor out in the open.

The most important thing about shopping, is finding one with a clear, negociable title.

Anyone have any ideas or prospects?
Meanwhile, I'll keep plugging away in the direction I'm going.
Cayoterun

[Pyrotechnic]

My idea would be to eliminate the radiator from the front and set the motor as far forward as you need to, I'm talking almost touching the front grill or bumper. That way you can get the back of the motor close to a stock firewall.

You may or may not need some oil pan or front cross member mods to do this but to me it would be worth it if the engine would actually fit with the radiator gone.

For the radiator, put it in the bed just behind the cab at an angle and mount some electric fans to it. You could also put the propane tank in the bed as well.