1952 Chevy Vette Farm Truck Build

[FarmerSid]

Thanks AD. Power vent would be cool. I think I will leave the vent for now and continue on with the cab repair. One thing I have noticed is that the hood hits the curved portion of the outer cowl when I close the hood. It prevents the hood from sitting flush up top with the cab. Either I welded the outer cowl in too high or the cowl shape is off. I may have to pie cut the hood a bit.

Any other idea's to correct this?

[FarmerSid]

Wondering if you all would mind sharing some idea's on a cab dolly. Ready to pull the cab and would like some idea's from those that have built one. I have some 6" casters to use. Now I can finally start working on the frame. Kinda excited about getting the Corvette suspension installed. Still have some cab work to do but I think I need to move onto something else for a bit.

[47 Fasttoys]

Morning Farmer,
This is what I built. It's 1 1/2 "and 2" square tubing and angle. The front is bolted using the original cab mounting holes with the rear just resting on the area near the rear seat mounting area. For mine I set the cab at final ride height.



Rob

[FarmerSid]

Looks good Rob! It's still night here. LOL! Looks simple enough. Since I last posted, I got to thinking that it might be nice to be able to flip the cab on it's back without damaging the new rear panel and still be able to get it back in it's normal position. I gotta be able to roll it out of the shop and on a gravel drive way for blasting and painting.

[BIGglaSS]

Another member here sells plans for a 55-59 dolly. I keep thinking about doing this, but would need a place to store it.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=203593

[rgunlock]

Member dwcsr built a really nice cab dolly in one of his recent build threads. He could tilt the cab and had lock-downs to keep it from rolling when he didn't want it to. Starts on post 16 here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=569491

[b.sharp]

Cab vent. In my '37 GMC if the windows are down I get a little air but if I open the vent it's like a wind tunnel. It's much nicer and more comfortable with the vent open. I do not have any carpet or insulation on the floor or roof. It is hot in the summer time but driving with the vent makes it bareable and cools off quick. I would think with a good seal you wouldn't have to worry about leaks. Just my .02 worth!! Keep at it man, the progress is looking great.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks for the dolly links guy's. Sure gives some idea's. Thanks sharp I think I'm gonna leave mine for now.

[FarmerSid]

Got my dolly made. Nothing fancy. Made it out of 2X4's and some casters I had. Camera's dead and Photobucket is being a pain.

[FarmerSid]

Some great progress today after hockey. Glad to be off the cab work for a bit. Got the cab off the frame and on the dolly. Started working on the frame. Are these six holes needed in the front of the front cross member? I want to fill them if they are not needed.





Here's my crew doing all the work!




Should have a good day's work tomorrow and will update Monday. Have a good weekend all!

[99 to Life]

Sid, I know I'v seen some of these pics bf. Not sure how I didn't reply to your thread. Great work and great attention to detail. I like seeing patch work really.

You asked about what holes to fill in the frame. I honestly can't give you a good answer on that. I'd box in the front and rear and call it a day. wait till you get your suspension on and if there are any big holes buggin you, fill them.

[oldman3]

Sid, I just checked by front crossmember on mine and I didn't use the 6 small holes, don't know what they were used for, or why they are there....Jim

[FarmerSid]

Thanks 99. Sorry for buggin ya as I did know you use S10 frames.

Jim, Thanks for looking for me. I will hold off a bit filling in those holes and see if others comment on what these holes are for.

Now back out and continue welding nuts on the inside of the frame for cab mounts, running boards etc. as I won't be able to get nuts inside the frame after it's boxed.

Is there anything I'm forgetting to do inside the frame before I box it up?

[Advanced Design]

Hi Sid, I checked my Uncles original 49 and unfortunately they were not visible. I didn't use them on my 48 build. They are on my suburban frame and I won't be using them there either. May have been clip retention holes for brake line? Just a guess. Hopefully someone will chime in.

Great picture with the kids helping!

Other than nuts on inside before boxing? What components are you building the chassis with?

[99 to Life]

no worries sid, got a couple OG frame builds lined up after this 49' is done. Nice work space in the BG. crazy how fast all that good work space gets filled up. Never enough room I swear.

[Average Joe]

Just stumbled across your build. Awesome work! I love your C4 cross member.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks for the comments guys. Keep them coming.

So here is where I ended up yesterday afternoon. Doesn't look like much but all cab and running board mounts were removed and nuts welded inside the frame to bolt them back on as I won't be able to get inside the frame and install the nuts after it's boxed. Time consuming but fun.

Ton's and ton's and ton's of holes filled. Frame is only out of square by 1/16" so it should be good to go.





























And the front cross member and lower frame rails cleaned up in preparation for the new C4 cross member to be installed.




Man I really suck at taking pictures. What I see and what comes out of the camera is totally different.

Cheers!

[99 to Life]

looks good, like the bolt on bracket approach

[Fountain]

great looking project and moving along quickly! I PM'ed you about your crossmember dimensions. If you have a chance to respond that would be greatly appreciated. The truck is going to be awesome keep up the good work.

[FarmerSid]

Fountain. The plans that I referred to came from these drawing in post #91.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...tockish&page=4

Thanks to Stockish in answering a lot of my stupid questions and sharing his plans. I used them along with measuring my own stock cross member. A measurement that is missing is 24 1/4" C to C between the left and right lower control arms mounts.

I will see if I have some better pics of the plans at home and will post.

Hope this helps.

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

looks good, like the bolt on bracket approach

I hope it works out. The front drivers running board bracket mounts up inside the cab mount and was bolted on with bolts way too long and looked awful. It's too tight to get inside the cab mount bracket with a socket. All the running board brackets were bolted on. Are they from the factory?

I decided I wanted to bolt the brackets back on with button head bolts for a cleaner look as well as clean up the frame behind the brackets. The rear cab mounts will be attached with the same button head bolts. Up in the air on using SS button head bolts or painting them the colour of the frame.

[1954Chev]

Sid,
I noticed that your back cab panel had no hole for the fuel filler. Which company is the panel from?

[FarmerSid]

I got my back panel from LMC truck. Had the option of filler hole or not.

[FarmerSid]

Is everyone else's AD running board brackets bolted to the frame?

[solidaxel]

All the ones I have had were riveted, if they were bolted I would have removed them while I was building the trucks so I would not have hit them with my legs!!!