Help with dash lights

[Coalkracker]

Well looks like I need a new switch for the backup lamps. The tab that fits inside of the column is broken from the rest of the switch causing it to not close and light the lamps. None of the parts stores around here even list the one on the column, they only list the one for 4 speeds that mount to the tranny. Looks like I have to order one from the internet.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

Well looks like I need a new switch for the backup lamps. The tab that fits inside of the column is broken from the rest of the switch causing it to not close and light the lamps. None of the parts stores around here even list the one on the column, they only list the one for 4 speeds that mount to the tranny. Looks like I have to order one from the internet.

Elkhart, TX, where I live has a small "Mom & Pop" independent auto parts store.. They can get most anything I need.. But when I'm forced to go the mail order route, I deal almost exclusively with Classis Parts of America..

In all the discussions you and I have had, I don't remember you telling me the year of your truck.. I'm just guessing at the back up light switch you need, but try this one...

https://www.classicparts.com/1960-72...ctinfo/53-615/

[Coalkracker]

Its a 1970, so it would be the backup switch without neutral safety.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

Its a 1970, so it would be the backup switch without neutral safety.

How did you arrive at that conclusion?? If you have an automatic trans, or an automatic column, You'll need the "combo" switch...

[Coalkracker]

I have a 3 speed on column. Switch only has 2 terminals.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

I have a 3 speed on column. Switch only has 2 terminals.

OK. Before you install the new switch, make absolutely sure you have the shift linkage adjusted properly per the service manual.. Improperly adjusted linkage will almost guarantee you'll break the new switch.. Adjusting procedure is a simply process often overlooked..

[Coalkracker]

Its deffinitely is in need of adjusting so I will. You probably saved me a switch by telling me that. I noticed that it likes to get jammed in between gears sometimes. I watched a tutorial on youtube how to do it and it seems fairly simple and quick. I have a little bit of troubleshooting to do also, when I jumped the wires in the plug only the passenger side backup light came on. I also noticed the blinker in the driver side tail light wasnt working so I will try to take care of that today or tomorrow. I have to try to get as much of this worked out soon because work will be getting busy very soon and I may not have very much time until early winter. Once all of the electrical is worked out I still have to replace all the brake components, clean fuel tank and replace lines, replace rockers panels on both sides, patch bottom of driver door, u-joints and support bearing. A lot to do! I also have a 350 engine coming as soon as the ground isnt so muddy here. Im paying nothing for the 350 which was recently rebuilt and out of an 86 3/4 ton. I wasnt exactly looking for one but I cant turn down free! If all goes to schedule I can do the swap by xmas this year.

[RustyPile]

That 350 could be a roller cam engine.. Be nice if it is, as free is always good.. So the engine presently in your truck doesn't run??

If you've learned anything from our electrical discussions, those 2 non-working lights should be an easy fix for you..

I'd be remiss if I didn't say this.. As you know, I'm very "old school".. I don't place a lot of faith in those youtube tutorials.. I'm not saying the one you watched is wrong or inaccurate.. Always remember, just because it's on the internet doesn't mean it's true or real.. I'm still suggesting you download service manual pages for the correct information on your truck...

[Coalkracker]

The 307 I have now does run but burns sone oil and has a leaky head gasket somewhere around cylinder #5. That spark plug is as perfectly clean and a little wet with coolant. I can little puffs of steam come out when the engine is hot between the block and the head too. I was going to pull the heads and make sure it was the gasket but this engine became available so I think I will go the route of doing the swap. I know the 350 is in top shape. It was recently rebuilt by a guy that owns a service garage and was used in his plow truck until the frame rusted out. Not many miles or hours on it but it has been to work a little. I dont know exactly how much work my 307 really needs. It starts up and runs but the whole motor is stock with 112k on it. I know the valve seals are bad and possibly the head gasket or a crack. Not sure until I pull that head. Original cam from what I understand wasnt made from properly hardened steel and lobes start flattening out. Valve seats are original which werent hardened. I have no problem with a 307 as some people do but the 350 is running perfectly. As for the linkage, all I did was twist the collar counter clockwise on the shaft where the linkage meets the column to take some slop out. I do need to order a manual for a 70. I have a chevrolet truck chassis service manual for a 67 but for a 3 speed they only list a muncie which I dont have. Probably should order one sooner rather then later.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

Its deffinitely is in need of adjusting so I will. You probably saved me a switch by telling me that. I noticed that it likes to get jammed in between gears sometimes. I watched a tutorial on youtube how to do it and it seems fairly simple and quick.

I didn't do much searching for a good youtube tutorial video, but the two I did find left me with total distrust in both.. In the first one, the "instructor" clearly didn't know what he was doing.. The second one didn't mention checking and correcting any deficiencies in the linkage before making adjustments. He was attempting to make adjustments and the linkage rods were flopping around because the shifter arms bushings were wore out..

In tightening up the end play, you have covered the first step.. Only thing I might add is you should first loosen the collar some... Wash the old grease out with some aerosol brake parts cleaner. pump a small amount of grease on each side of the arms and a dab more on the actuator in the middle. THEN tighten up the endplay.. End of spoon feeding session... <<<<grin>>>>

[Coalkracker]

I should have been more specific when I said "all I did was twist the collar". I already did all of that. Lubed a bit inside the column also. Im quite impressed how smooth it moves now. Just going through the gears quickly while sitting in my driveway it doesnt jam up anymore now. Not sure about when it gets out in the road but deffinitely better then before. Needs a little more work before I put that switch in.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

I should have been more specific when I said "all I did was twist the collar". I already did all of that. Lubed a bit inside the column also. Im quite impressed how smooth it moves now. Just going through the gears quickly while sitting in my driveway it doesnt jam up anymore now. Not sure about when it gets out in the road but deffinitely better then before. Needs a little more work before I put that switch in.

Two things I didn't hear you comment about.. Before the grease and adjustment, did you check for any worn parts and repair/replace them?? Did you clean out the old grease?? When the truck's rolling down the road all shaking and vibrating, if the bushings are bad, those rods will move about a lot.. Good repair techniques are established in the shop not rolling down the road.. Get it right the first time and the road test just verifies a good repair.. The purpose of a road test it NOT to locate problems in the area where you just worked.. In the professional field, bringing the truck back to the shop for additional repairs to the same area is not a good sign.. With experience, you'll learn this lesson a bit better..

To end this post on a good note... I think you're doing a good job.. Keep improving on your technique and approach.. I like what I see so far..

Check your PMs for some additional comments from me..

[Coalkracker]

Yes I did clean out all the old grease "if thats what I can even call it 49 years later". It was more like a melted candy mixed with dirt. I didnt use brake cleaner though. I used wd40, a stiff bristle brush, and some rags. I do have a little play in the bushings but at what point are they considered worn? Are they worn when they start to wiggle or is there an allowed play with them? I didnt tighten the collar as much as I probably needed to with replacing bushings in the back of my head but wasnt positive about it.

[Markuli]

If you have mice and you think they're in your heater box, be sure to check in your cowl where it dips down to the fenders, knee vents, and the space where the inner heater box meets the outer one. Once you get all the nests out, scrub down with some lightly- diluted simple green and a stiff plastic brush (just a little water, don't want to weaken the solution too much when dealing with mice) and follow up with bleach when you're done. For the spots you can't scrub, I'd pour some bleach down there and let it drain to the ground, followed by a couple dumps of some hot water.

When I cleaned out my heater boxes (inner and outer), I used scrubbing bubbles cleaner. Works wonders.

Oh and don't get rid of that squirrel cage fan inside your heater box. No one makes the plastic ones anymore, and the Ebay replacements can be iffy.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

Yes I did clean out all the old grease "if thats what I can even call it 49 years later". It was more like a melted candy mixed with dirt. I didnt use brake cleaner though. I used wd40, a stiff bristle brush, and some rags. I do have a little play in the bushings but at what point are they considered worn? Are they worn when they start to wiggle or is there an allowed play with them? I didnt tighten the collar as much as I probably needed to with replacing bushings in the back of my head but wasnt positive about it.

WD-40 is not a good grease dissolver.. It's more of water proofing agent and contact cleaner.. Choke cleaner, brake parts cleaner, and similar aerosols will totally dissolve any grease build up.. Except for freeing up some lightly sticking window channels I hardly ever use it.. If the linkage rods can be "wiggled around" and/or moved up and down without moving the levers on the column, those bushings need to be replaced.. Way too much wear is present if you can see any daylight through them.. Personally, I like the column levers to have some stiffness in their movement. This takes a lot of the "hold it in gear" load off the transmission detent components. But under any event, tighten that collar until all clearances are reduced to very near zero..

[Coalkracker]

I have some carb cleaner, will that work or should I get something else. Im going to need cleaner for other areas on the truck anyway.
I'm able to rock the reverse/first linkage a little bit. I ordered 2 bushings, they will be at the store this evening. Got to thinking while im at it I should probably just go ahead and change the other 2 on the 2-3. So when I go to pick them up I will just order 2 more for tomorrow. Since im going to clean again and grease again what kind of grease would be the best for this. I have red tacky, farm and heavy equipment, marine, and all purpose. Dont know if it really matters...

[RustyPile]

If the choke/carb cleaner is the aerosol type, then, yes, it will work.. Don't use the carb cleaner from the soaking vat.. It will dissolve most grease, but it has to be flushed and neutralized with water -- too messy for my taste..

Any good relatively thin grease will work.. I use high temp wheel bearing grease. Red or natural color doesn't matter, but I like the natural color because it doesn't show up as much.. if I'm doing an in car column repair.. If I have the column on the bench I use white lithium grease.. It's primary use is in engine assembly, but also works good on door and tailgate latches, and especially the column mounted shift linkages..

You got the right idea on those bushings... Replace them on both arms.. Get every thing clean, eliminate all free up and down slack in those rods.. If the shift lever bowl at the top of the column is in good shape -- no floppy motion to the shift lever, all you need is to remove the lever and put a small amount of grease on the ball at the end and reinstall the lever.. Follow the adjustment procedure in the Service Manual.. When you're finished with all that, the transmission should shift like a warm knife passes through butter.. smooth and "glitch" free..

[Coalkracker]

Well I put the new bushings in and it tightened everything up. I have to say though I dont like the bushings they gave me at the parts store. They do away with the metal sleeve inside the rubber grommet. Now its metal from the stud on the linkage arm against rubber bushing. Its tight but I would think these will wear out very fast. Idk im just not liking these....

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

Well I put the new bushings in and it tightened everything up. I have to say though I dont like the bushings they gave me at the parts store. They do away with the metal sleeve inside the rubber grommet. Now its metal from the stud on the linkage arm against rubber bushing. Its tight but I would think these will wear out very fast. Idk im just not liking these....

None of the parts available for old cars today have the quality of the original stuff, therefore won't last nearly as long.. Don't stress over the small stuff.. You'll get a few years service from them...

[Coalkracker]

Yea its very disappointing to see parts like this. I guess theres no way around it sometimes. Tomorrow I will make sure everything is good with the work I did and i'll move on to starting something else.

[Coalkracker]

Originally Posted by Markuli

If you have mice and you think they're in your heater box, be sure to check in your cowl where it dips down to the fenders, knee vents, and the space where the inner heater box meets the outer one. Once you get all the nests out, scrub down with some lightly- diluted simple green and a stiff plastic brush (just a little water, don't want to weaken the solution too much when dealing with mice) and follow up with bleach when you're done. For the spots you can't scrub, I'd pour some bleach down there and let it drain to the ground, followed by a couple dumps of some hot water.

When I cleaned out my heater boxes (inner and outer), I used scrubbing bubbles cleaner. Works wonders.

Oh and don't get rid of that squirrel cage fan inside your heater box. No one makes the plastic ones anymore, and the Ebay replacements can be iffy.

If I put bleach water into the side vents (not sure what they are called but the ones that pull fresh air into the cab without a fan) will they drain to the ground? Im not even sure where they pull the air from.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

If I put bleach water into the side vents (not sure what they are called but the ones that pull fresh air into the cab without a fan) will they drain to the ground? Im not even sure where they pull the air from.

The air is pulled in through the cowl vent between the hood and windshield.. There are a couple drain holes but they could be stopped up.. Remove both vent doors in the kick panel and you can reach right in. Don't pour raw bleach in there.. Mix about 2 - 3 tbl spoons bleach to a gallon of water and pour it in.. Flush, flush, flush with clear water. Residual bleach will promote rust formation... When it dries up, remove the debris, making sure the drains are open..

[Coalkracker]

Sounds like I should probably remove the cowl then. Theres a lot of leaves in there so its probably all blocked up. Is there more to it then just taking the wipers and antenna off and removing the screws?

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

Sounds like I should probably remove the cowl then. Theres a lot of leaves in there so its probably all blocked up. Is there more to it then just taking the wipers and antenna off and removing the screws?

It's "cowl vent".. Cowl" is the top of the firewall, integral with the main truck body.. There's also a bolt located at each end of the cowl vent.. Screws vertically into the cowl.. BUT, you can't gain access to the "duct" entrance by removing the cowl vent.. Go in either through the vent doors in the kick panel or remove the fenders and go in that way.. Where's that chassis manual????????.

[Bonestock3ott]

Originally Posted by Coalkracker

Well I put the new bushings in and it tightened everything up. I have to say though I dont like the bushings they gave me at the parts store. They do away with the metal sleeve inside the rubber grommet. Now its metal from the stud on the linkage arm against rubber bushing. Its tight but I would think these will wear out very fast. Idk im just not liking these....

Coalkracker, when I replaced the bushings in my shift rods a couple years ago I needed to re use the metal sleeves inside the new bushings. I believe I sourced the bushings from classic parts? Bonestock3ott