Starting the overall replacement of front suspension today :-) drop time.

[beaterku]

Thanks!

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Well the second set of arms came out just as good, waiting on my passengers side rotor and will be putting it back together. I ordered a set of Energy Suspension 9.13126G Ball Joint Dust Boots off Amazon and they did not fit perfect but one can replace my bad upper boot for now. If anyone knows a good replacement boot give me the heads up.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I contacted parent company of moog about the boot being torn on my upper ball joint and joint being ok and they said they will mail me some replacements. Good customer service, they got back to me through email 20 min after submitting issue on their online forum and responded well.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I also went and picked up a stock 1974-1 1/16" sway bar for $35 today locally. Going to buy a lowered bar mount for frame and energy suspension bushing kit because it comes with brackets I only have 2 factory u brackets for bushings. Any better alternatives for install and places to get them. 4 bushing set for 1 1/16", Energy Suspension 3.5175G, is $36 on Amazon with a zerk on 2 of them or I can get a set from ECE which are graphite impregnated poly a bit cheaper. Comes with all hardware to make it simply and save a trip to pickup some bolts.

[saxart]

Originally Posted by PaPaStewySnipes

I contacted parent company of moog about the boot being torn on my upper ball joint and joint being ok and they said they will mail me some replacements. Good customer service, they got back to me through email 20 min after submitting issue on their online forum and responded well.

Were these brand new ball joints that had ripped boots, or were they on this truck and driven with ripped boots? If it was a driver with ripped boots, then you really should just replace the ball joint while you have it out. Even if the BJs are good, they will have debris in them and will wear out quickly anyway.
They don't cost that much via Rockauto, and they're easy to press out and back in.

BTW... Nice job pick up on the front sway bar. I got the same 1-1/4" bar via local pick-a-part and got the low profile mounts and energy suspension bushings via Amazon.

[Cbo]

This thread has been extremely helpful in my project I have going on in my front end.

Quick question about your "potion" you've been using to convert rust. How and where are you doing really large parts? Do you have a huge Tupperware container I'm your shop just filled with the stuff?

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I am glad it is a big help. I did the control arms by sprayed them with a spray bottle every few min while smoking a cigarette and reading. I removed heavy stuff off first for a few min with wire wheel or brush. Used container and dipped brackets, nuts, bolts, etc in. You can dip larger parts, it is a preference and will work. Always do a test piece beforehand. And I do have a containers with a couple different mixes.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Well ECE came through and quick. Sway bar mounts, bushings and hardware came into today at noon waited for it to cool down some in the garage and just hit the passengers side for the install. The lower frame crossmember rivet will need to be removed to mount frame bracket, I had one side done in 15 min, and you should only do one side at a time to keep the crossmember from moving on you. Fairly easy, hit it with my cutting wheel making a star on the head of rivet, grinded it down some and hit it with a drill. Punched it out with a 10lb hammer and a trash bolt I had to use as a punch. Some pics below. I will install both frame mounts first, then bar with bushings when I get my boot for the passengers side control arm and button it all up. I am anxious to get front suspension put back together. I will include some more pics and info as I am getting it done.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

I used frame mounts that are for lowered applications since my front end has a 4" drop on it. Here is some pics of the trash rotor APW sent me after a week, VS what Summit sent to my door in less than 48hrs. I did get the passengers rotor from autopartswarehouse for $42 using a discount, that being said it may be a a stretch, but I believe that's why they sent me a rejected trash rotor that normally sell for $90-120ea. Personally I wouldnt do business with APW again. They did give me my wilwood rear kit $110 off and the rotor about $60 off, and after spending close to 3k on truck parts...etc from various vendors with no issues the past 2 months I was trying to save a few bucks. The rotor that looks like it was rejected and pulled of the lathe early is the one I got from APW. I doubt they noticed before shipment, or there was a mix up from the manufacture. It may work fine I simply do not want to deal with a reject rotor while paying for a properly machined product, it looked like it was mounted and returned before from the rust I saw on the studs.

[beaterku]

Looks good. I order all of my Wilwood parts and suspension kit from AZ Pro last Friday. Excited to get to installing.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Here I am, About to pull axels, have to carefully remove the retaining rod and pull clips and will be on my way after removing old brake lines out of my way. Any tips or advice shoot it at me. This is my first time to do a rear disk conversion from a drum set up. If I can be any help to someone else ask away. My fluid needed a change badly, gears look good, where do I look to see what gear ratio I have for my rear end, I believe it is stock 2.73 gears.

[Mike C]

3.08 was the most common for 350 v8 auto trucks. Same with 400 BB in a 1/2 ton. At least in 71-72.

3.73 was most common in the 6 cylinder. The numbers will be stampled on the ring rear OD. Clean it of and look you will find something like 41:10 which would be 4.10. Also should find GM part # and a date stamp.

2.73 wasn't very common until later in the '70's.

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Thanks, my passengers side of axle was clean, bearing smooth and seal good. Checked inners all were in good shape. Driver side of axle toob was full of junk and not clear and clean as other side of diff. Going to clean it out and replace the bearing and seal. Would a bad seal be the cause of this since it is on one side, seal did not look so bad. Have an ok picture to show what I am describing.

[Ironangel]

Running and/or sitting long periods of time with low gear lube will cause those bearings and seals to dry up and go bad. A full diff housing allows for the lube to partially fill each axle tube with gear lube before reaching the bottom of the fill hole. It's important to be on a level surface when you check or fill the diff so both those bearings get lubed. It's also important to check the vent making sure it's open and not clogged. You can see in the pic that that bearing was dry, "bad juju!"

[PaPaStewySnipes]

Vent was clogged and I went ahead and replaced bearing and seal on drivers side. Cleaned out all the junk I could. Coming along and going to try to finish breaks today. Still need to order e brake cable and bend my rear lines.

[Hotrod_TX]

Any more progress on this project? Would love to see pics of the final ride height and stance.