1971 Stepside LS Build

[1971Stepside]

What I take tube/filter is this? I was going to fab one up, but the parts alone are near $100. The 4” pipe and silicone couples are what get you.

I bought two of the Spectre adapters and the aluminum elbow on Amazon for a total of $65.25. I bought the Spectre filter at my local O'Reilly's for $38 bucks

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If for some reason it turns over but wont start, before you start tearing everything apart, replace the old ignition switch with a new one. When they get worn they wont keep 12 volts to the computer long enough to get it to run. A friend just did the same swap. Went thru wiring, sensors even took trans apart thinking something was wrong it. Turns out ignition switch.

This is great information to know. I would have already ordered a new one, but since this is the original to the truck I will give it a try. Thanks for the heads up!!

Good read. Are you going with hp tuners?

I'm going with a cheapo off of Amazon for now. I will go with a better set up down the road once I have more of this thing together. I really just want it to start and idle for a minute or so to keep the oil moving around. I'm a long way from putting her in gear and moving it.

[Andyking1203]

Looking good!!!

[1971Stepside]

Finally got the torque converter installed. Plan was to do this once the cab was back off, but changed my mind. Had to yell for help as I was pulling it! Glad I had it strapped on the jack or I would have had an expensive night. As I was moving the jack back the handle came out! I was in a tight spot. Transmission is going back in tomorrow. Down to the radiator and we can turn the key!

[RedRider]

What's the scoop on the torque converter bolts? I planned to use the ones that came with the Circle D converter but read somewhere that they're too long for the 4L80e flywheel?? Is that why you have the ARP bolts?

Might use your Amazon/Spectre MAF sensor setup, it's very simplistic. Keep up the good work, can't wait to hear this thing purr.

[beaterku]

Looking good!

[1971Stepside]

What's the scoop on the torque converter bolts? I planned to use the ones that came with the Circle D converter but read somewhere that they're too long for the 4L80e flywheel?? Is that why you have the ARP bolts?

Here is a picture of the bolts side by side. The shorter is the ARP bolt. The longer is the one that Circle-D shipped with the TC. If you don't need any spacers, then the ARP is the way to go. If you need to use one of the spacers/shims then I will have to use the bolts supplied. I ordered the ARP bolts because I didn't think they were sending me any with the converter. Was happy to open the box and see them.

[1971Stepside]

Torque Converter installed with no issue. Ended up having to use one shim to be within tolerance.

I installed the O2 sensors that came with my engine and discovered they didn't work with my harness. I found out the Denali O2's are different than the standard truck O2 sensors. So, ran to the parts store and picked up two new ones and installed them.

Finally, poured in some oil and turned the key on the see if I could get the fuel pump to prime the lines to check for leaks. Special thanks to Custom68 for helping me figure out I had a grounding problem. Once that was solved it all came to life with no fuel leaks.

Hopefully we can start her up next week.

[beaterku]

Exciting! I had to use the smaller of the two shims on mine as well. Your truck is coming together nicely.

[1971Stepside]

Exciting! I had to use the smaller of the two shims on mine as well. Your truck is coming together nicely.

Thanks Nick. I was a little panicked when I turned the key to 'on' and got nothing. Once we figured out it was a bad ground (thanks to powder coating) and it came to life I was super excited. I hit the key about five times before I had fuel at the rail. Can't wait to see if she will start.

[TA_C10]

Nice progress. What trans cooler are you running? Remote heat sink on the frame?

.

[1971Stepside]

Nice progress. What trans cooler are you running? Remote heat sink on the frame?

Thanks. I am not running one at this point. Just using the radiator for cooling. This won't be a daily driver so I shouldn't need one. If it runs at 180 degrees I will add one later.

[Custom 68]

I am glad you got the grounding figured out. I am also glad there were no leaks. It is coming along very nicely. Once you get the radiator don't forget to add about a gallon thru the upper radiator hose into the engine block. If not it will air lock and not pump the coolant.
It will be exciting to hear it for the first time. If it doesn't fire right up holler again my injectors seemed to have gotten gummy from sitting the first time I fired mine up.
good luck and keep the pictures coming.
Dave

[1971Stepside]

What trans cooler are you running?

Well, I did some more research and with the bigger stall converter it looks like running a cooler along with the radiator is the recommended application. So, I ordered a heat sink cooler yesterday. I'll post up pictures of it all once I have my radiator back and it all installed.

[1971Stepside]

Installed the oil cooler over the weekend and took her off the jack stands. Overall I like the stance of the 4/6 drop now that it has the weight of the engine and transmission on it.

I fought and fought the new inner fender on the passenger side. Several of the holes don't line up. Has anyone else had this issue with the Goodmark fenders? I am about to take it completely off and start all over. For the life of me I don't know how I will ever get these inner fenders in without scratching them all up once painted.

Radiator has shipped and will be here Wednesday. Was hoping to roll her out on Saturday and fire her up, but winter returns this weekend.

[TA_C10]

Looks good! What's the details on the oil cooler? Did you connect it directly to oil filter housing with adapter to A/N fitting? Got more pics of that?

[1971Stepside]

Looks good! What's the details on the oil cooler? Did you connect it directly to oil filter housing with adapter to A/N fitting? Got more pics of that?

Purchased part #RUS-641390 from Summit. These replace the current fittings in the 4L80e with 6an. Then you just run your flex hose to the radiator and cooler as necessary.

Sorry, I don't have a specific pic of the lines coming out of the transmission. If you look up at post #82 you can see one of the fittings there.

[TA_C10]

My bad, for some reason I thought you were talking about engine oil cooler. Too many threads I'm following I got mixed up. This forum is awesome with knowledge

[beaterku]

Looking good!

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

IOverall I like the stance of the 4/6 drop now that it has the weight of the engine and transmission on it.

Ya can't just throw that out there and not show US the stance! It's not right!

[1971Stepside]

Ya can't just throw that out there and not show US the stance! It's not right!

LOL. I have no excuses....I'll work on that even though we still have the 15" shop wheels and tires on it.

[MDPotter]

What are your plans for the brakes? I have the same Astro van setup as you. I have stock rear drums and am doing a front disc conversion and I'm planning on using the Astro master cylinder and a residual pressure valve for the drums, but not sure about what to do about a prop valve yet.

I've been talking with GMC Pauls and they have a brake line kit which might match up with the Astro prop valve. The kit has a single 3/16" line to the prop valve for the front drums and a single 1/4" line to the prop valve for the drums. I was going to buy a disc/drum prop valve from Speedway Motors, but it has (2) outlets for the front so now I'm thinking about using the Astro prop valve.

[1971Stepside]

What are your plans for the brakes?

I'm planning to get this project going with the disc/drum set up and using the Astro proportioning valve. I haven't looked into brake lines yet, but I am getting close to that. Would love to hear what you end up going with if you don't mind.

It is so nice here today that I wanted to skip work this afternoon and push her outside for some sun, but I didn't. Here is a shot of the the stance with no bed or hood and a few other key parts

[MDPotter]

Originally Posted by 1971Stepside

I'm planning to get this project going with the disc/drum set up and using the Astro proportioning valve. I haven't looked into brake lines yet, but I am getting close to that. Would love to hear what you end up going with if you don't mind.

It is so nice here today that I wanted to skip work this afternoon and push her outside for some sun, but I didn't. Here is a shot of the the stance with no bed or hood and a few other key parts

I actually just finished doing my research on brake setup. Here's where I'm at: Astro hydroboost (rebuild kit on order), Astro master cylinder, Astro proportioning valve, brake line kit from GMC Pauls, and Speedway Motors residual pressure valve for drums. I snuck out to the salvage yard at lunch to look at the Astro donor and confirmed that the front lines are 3/16" and the rear are 1/4" which matches the sizing of the lines in the GMC Pauls kit.

Here are the part #'s:
-GMC Pauls complete line kit (does not include tees or unions, but does include the lines out of the prop valve, front lines, front to rear line, and rear axle lines) - 1801002. These are OEM steel. We used stainless on my dad's truck but found out that it's incredibly hard to work with since it's so hard which makes any modifications difficult because it takes a special flaring tool and you have to tighten the fittings, loosen, tighten again, tighten some more, etc. to get them to seal.
-10 psi residual pressure valve - Speedway Motors - Wilwood 260-13707/Speedway 83526013707. I plan to install this somewhere in the middle of the front to rear line. Cut the line, slide the nuts over each end, flare each end, then thread into adapters that thread into the residual valve.
-Inverted flare nuts for 1/4" line - Speedway Motors - 91031819 - 1 bag. Put these on the ends of the cut in the front to rear line.
-Inverted flare to NPT adapter - Speedway Motors - 91031828 - 2 EA. These adapt the inverted flare threads on the lines to the NPT threads on the residual valve.

[1971Stepside]

MDPotter...you are the man! Thank you for this. Helps out a lot.

The parts you listed will give me lines front to back?

[MDPotter]

I hope it works! I've had plenty of time to research all of this as we finish up my dad's truck. But I'll be tearing into mine in the next couple months. So if you get your brakes working before mine, let me know how it goes!